Project XL185/CG250 swap

[Megadan]

Bummer about the fitment on it. That is a pretty tight spot for a carb though. One advantage the Hawk style bikes have with kicking the carb out to the side like they do. You can remove the knob on that assembly if you take the idle speed screw out all the way. The spring holds tension on it and keeps it in place. You could simply remove the knob, and if needed use a washer to retain the spring. The adjustment might be a little more interesting, but still doable.

[XLsior]

I purchased a 3D resin printer a while ago.

Had a go at making some basic replacement cable sliders for my front brake cable runners.

Originals were long gone.

Made a some test prints and adjusted size to fit was using some left over grey high impact resin...also have black resin by I think the grey looks alright.

Better than bare metal scraping.

[XLsior]

I also have the find a guy with a tig welder solution.

This was the dogleg manifold...

I tried to get some of the kink leg out of it, well it ended up in 2 sections.

But It's a possible manifold carby placement sweet spot alternative route.

It will cost me $25 shipping to return the nibbi so if I can get the manifold welded for around the same cost it might be a better outcome...

[XLsior]

Decided to follow on with the custom fabricated intake manifold.
this will allow me to run the pumper actuator on the PZ30B or the PE28FL Nibbi.

Found a fabricator nearby so did as much prep as possible and double checked clearance angles on both carbs. then made alignment marks and handed them over to the fabricator.

Alloy welding is a bit beyond my skill level. Hopefully get it back tomorrow.

Confident enough that i already purchased a 48mm angled air filter to fit the Nibbi.

[XLsior]

Frame clear both sides.

Choke/plunger clear

room to swing a cat on the idle knob/actuator side.

throttle slide cap position ok...

fuel filter and pipe can be shifted easy enough.

Not sure if i'll be able use the heat separator flange plate,

But might have less heat soak from the exhaust now = tradeoff

[XLsior]

I think I understand what you're suggesting using a retaining washer instead of the shiny red knob, It might be enough.

But I am basically in the same predicament as the PZ30B pump actuator fouling on the same spot and looking for obscure inlet manifold angles for any possible clearance.

Also I had the oposite issue you had with fitment as the manifold studs I use are too long and butt into the bottom of Nibbi near the choke plunger so it's finicky all round...

the frame was built around the 200cc sized engines and 26mm carbs...the 250 makes everything a shoehorn..

with the right sort of manifold angle these carbs would fit fully functional out of the box.

Even if I get it to fit without the idle knob I don't think I have access to the choke plunger anyway.

Probably going to take the shipping hit and return the Nibbi.

[Moto1204]

All looks great mate. I almost bought a Nibbi carb but just settled on a standard PZ30 as I knew it’d fit and at least get me riding. Not sure how I feel about the black finish…I think I like it!

I’ve been curious about trying a PZ30 pumper carb but not sure if it’ll fit my setup. Curious how that Nibbi treats ya!

Glad you got the intake manifold sorted. I do a lot of 3D printed parts on a lot of my builds but use abs or PETG. A resin printer is sweet stuff! All my current headlight clamps and holders I 3D printed!

[XLsior]

Originally Posted by Moto1204

All looks great mate. I almost bought a Nibbi carb but just settled on a standard PZ30 as I knew it’d fit and at least get me riding. Not sure how I feel about the black finish…I think I like it!

I’ve been curious about trying a PZ30 pumper carb but not sure if it’ll fit my setup. Curious how that Nibbi treats ya!

Glad you got the intake manifold sorted. I do a lot of 3D printed parts on a lot of my builds but use abs or PETG. A resin printer is sweet stuff! All my current headlight clamps and holders I 3D printed!

The pumper PZ30B and Nibbi idle screw knob both fouled on the XL frame in the same place.

If you have ample clearance on the PZ30 idle screw side then a pumper might fit.

[XLsior]

I got a resin printer mainly for my dabble into miniature warfare gaming.

Found Gamesworkshop/Warhammer a bit to cost prohibitive and propitiatory to ever get into the genre/hobby.

Then I came across OnePageRules.com and the opensource community aspect felt like the right time to get involved at the same time 3d printing technology got cheaper and better quality.

Anyway this is my delve into 'plastic crack'

My custom sporekin/myconid/mushroom men army...unpainted.

It's my winter hobby...

having the 3D printer though does have other uses I might try to make a housing for the gear indicator instead of the current rubber grommet holding it in.

[Moto1204]

Yeah my idle screw is completely in the open. I can easily reach down and adjust it by hand so I may be able to swap in something else at one point.

That’s too cool on the printed army men. I’m always coming up with things to try and print. Mainly in PLA to test but then re do them in a higher grade filament for durability. I use an Ender 3 Max and a Monoprice Mini V2. I just got done with a 22 hour print…it was a bit nerve racking.

[XLsior]

Got the manifold back.

Bit of price to pay but that's "the way she goes" sometimes .

It won't be coming apart anytime soon, but after I got home and covered 1 opening with my hand and blew into the other there was a pin leak....

well I couldn't be bothered taking it back and i was going to port it and make it a bit less of an eye sore.

So being such a small leak i just went with a dab of JB original weld.
overall I'm still happy with it...

And more importantly, think I nailed it with the angle.

[XLsior]

Alignment is perfect.

the air filters sit even better than before.

The PZ30 slide center is on the money.

The Nibbi slide being a bit further forward and larger makes the screw cap just hit the upper frame brace...I can shave the portion of frame no drama.

So a good outcome I feel.

I will start with the PZ30 no pumper as my base line and roadworthy inspection setup for now.

that way I will know if the pumper or PE28FL actually makes a difference.

Personal testing process.

[JerryHawk250]

The project is coming together little by little. Looks good! I bet that 3D printer could make a nice intake.

[XLsior]

The printer might be able to print an intake.

But I don't really have any experience in 3D computer modelling and I am not sure how well printable resins handle high temps and fuel.

I could also print a castable resin form then make a mold and pour liquid metal to form...However that resin is rather expensive as well as all cost of the rest of the process

Filament printers might have better material options.

We're also getting into 3D metal printing technology which is pretty amazing.

The modified intake was original to the engine so it kinda belongs... the flow is better than before as I pie cut maybe 5*of angle from it. with a bit of sanding and polishing it will look alright for those prepared to inspect it.

At this point though its all the little imperfections that give the bike character.

[Moto1204]

I printed an intake and float bowl gasket out of TPU material before. It’s gasoline resistant and cheap filament. But it’s not for resin printers of course. I recommend trying the standard PZ30 for testing as well. I ordered a few extra jets for cheap on eBay when I set mine up with the pod filter. I think I actually need to richen it up a bit. Maybe one more on the main or raise the needle. Either way, it was a $30 carb from Amazon and I’m impressed with how well it works. I do have a slight hesitation when I’m on the throttle for a bit then quickly off and then back on…pumper setup may help with this.