New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Thanks for the explanation, gentlemen. Fuel consumption vs. energy created hadn't occurred to me.

Can you further explain which curve is torque and which is hp? I think I know the answer, but I want to be sure.

I think I've got this right

[SpudRider]

I just got back from a 60-mile ride to test the shock preload adjustment I performed on my RX3. The ride contained interstate, secondary, and tertiary paved roads, including city streets. I also rode dirt and gravel roads. Tightening the spring preload adjustment on the shock absorber a mere three turns resulted in a very significant improvement in shock performance.

The shock absorber is still reacting a little too soft for my taste, so I am going to tighten the spring preload another three turns.

[G19Tony]

The WPS Li-On battery arrived today. It went into the bike with no issues. It weighs 2.4lbs, but it sure feels lighter than that. The bike fired right up.




I installed the instrument panel power outlets the other day. It was a fairly straightforward process. I removed the windshield for better access. The wings came off easily, and the outlets went back in just as easy. I was a little stumped as to where the power box goes. (I can't remember the proper nomenclature!) A quick call to Steve answered the question. It goes behind the right rear panel. Removing the plate under the pillion seat is the easiest way to access the connector. I will plug things in later tonight and see how they work. The windscreen was a little fiddly to put back on.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

I installed the instrument panel power outlets the other day.

Those look well integrated into the dash, not like they were an afterthought. I'd love to find something like that for my bike.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I just got back from a 60-mile ride to test the shock preload adjustment I performed on my RX3. The ride contained interstate, secondary, and tertiary paved roads, including city streets. I also rode dirt and gravel roads. Tightening the spring preload adjustment on the shock absorber a mere three turns resulted in a very significant improvement in shock performance.

The shock absorber is still reacting a little too soft for my taste, so I am going to tighten the spring preload another three turns.

That's good news. Perhaps with the appropriate preload and nitrogen charge, this shock will meet your needs.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

That's good news. Perhaps with the appropriate preload and nitrogen charge, this shock will meet your needs.

As FastDoc might say, the prognosis is optimistic. I am going out in a few minutes to tighten the spring preload another three turns.

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

As FastDoc might say, the prognosis is optimistic. I am going out in a few minutes to tighten the spring preload another three turns.

Spud, I've been wondering about my suspension and how to make it ride less harsh on the street. I weigh around 180 w riding gear and the pot holes on Walla Walla streets are bad. When I hit them sitting down it really rattles the old back bones. I have less then 100 miles on the RX3 so it's not broke in yet and I thought I'd wait 500-700 miles before doing any adjustments to change things.
On the rear shock is the preload changed by just turning the ring under the spring? Is there any set screw locking said ring? Any special tool used to turn ring?
I don't know squat about adjusting suspension like racers do but I'm assuming I want the least amount of preload so it's not as harsh and squats down more. Then adjust dampening on shock to control the shock boing boing part of the ride?
Forks seem stiff to me also. Would your ATF oil be a better choice? thanks rj

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Spud, I've been wondering about my suspension and how to make it ride less harsh on the street. I weigh around 180 w riding gear and the pot holes on Walla Walla streets are bad. When I hit them sitting down it really rattles the old back bones. I have less then 100 miles on the RX3 so it's not broke in yet and I thought I'd wait 500-700 miles before doing any adjustments to change things.
On the rear shock is the preload changed by just turning the ring under the spring? Is there any set screw locking said ring? Any special tool used to turn ring?
I don't know squat about adjusting suspension like racers do but I'm assuming I want the least amount of preload so it's not as harsh and squats down more. Then adjust dampening on shock to control the shock boing boing part of the ride?
Forks seem stiff to me also. Would your ATF oil be a better choice? thanks rj

I just got done increasing the shock spring preload another three turns. I did take a few photographs. I'm going for a test ride, but I will post a thread later on this topic. The job is pretty easy, and the rewards are satisfying.

You certainly will enjoy the forks more if you replace the stock fish oil, about 2.5W, with real fork oil around 10W, or ATF. Check out the following thread. Later, I will add more information regarding the ATF I installed in my forks.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...386#post184386

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Spud, I've been wondering about my suspension and how to make it ride less harsh on the street. I weigh around 180 w riding gear and the pot holes on Walla Walla streets are bad. When I hit them sitting down it really rattles the old back bones...

Yes, the spring preload setting on the shock absorber produces a very harsh ride. Fortunately, adjusting the spring preload allows the shock to perform much better.

Originally Posted by rjmorel

On the rear shock is the preload changed by just turning the ring under the spring? Is there any set screw locking said ring? Any special tool used to turn ring?...

The locking ring for the shock spring has a single Allen bolt which tightens it. You adjust the spring preload either by turning the spring, or turning the locking ring, which sits above the spring at the top of the shock. You don't need a special tool to tighten the spring preload.

Originally Posted by rjmorel

...I don't know squat about adjusting suspension like racers do but I'm assuming I want the least amount of preload so it's not as harsh and squats down more. Then adjust dampening on shock to control the shock boing boing part of the ride?...

The spring preload on my shock was set to the mimimum amount. Therfore, I suspect your shock is the same, and you will want to increase the amount of spring preload to stiffen the shock response. The adjustable rebound damping of the shock works well, and is easy to adjust.

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Forks seem stiff to me also. Would your ATF oil be a better choice? thanks rj

The rebound damping of the forks is too soft, due to the low viscosity of the fork oil. I drained the stock fork oil, and installed Mobil1 Synthetic ATF, which has a viscosity of 10W. The thicker ATF allowed the forks to function significantly better.

[SpudRider]

The battery looks great, as do the power outlets.

I think it is easier to install the windshield if you install the lowest bolts first. If necessary, install the windshield loosely before you install the headlight. Then it will be much easier to tighten the lowest bolts on the windshield.

[AZRider]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

The battery looks great, as do the power outlets.

I think it is easier to install the windshield if you install the lowest bolts first. If necessary, install the windshield loosely before you install the headlight. Then it will be much easier to tighten the lowest bolts on the windshield.

I wasn't able to get my fingers behind the windshield to hold the nut, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the nut and then got the bolt started finger tight.

[G19Tony]

When I got the new battery in, I started the engine for about 30 seconds. The oil in the sight glass went away, as expected. It's been 4 hours and nothing has drained back to the case. Did I do something wrong when I did the oil change? No leaks noted. I'll check again in the morning.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

When I got the new battery in, I started the engine for about 30 seconds. The oil in the sight glass went away, as expected. It's been 4 hours and nothing has drained back to the case. Did I do something wrong when I did the oil change? No leaks noted. I'll check again in the morning.

How much oil did you use to refill the engine? I suspect you will find the oil visible in the sight glass tomorrow morning. However, it is unusual that the oil didn't return to the sight glass within minutes.

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

How much oil did you use to refill the engine? I suspect you will find the oil visible in the sight glass tomorrow morning. However, it is unusual that the oil didn't return to the sight glass within minutes.

I filled it to the full mark. If there is no oil indicated, I'll be calling CSC. Strange problem, indeed.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by AZRider

I wasn't able to get my fingers behind the windshield to hold the nut, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the nut and then got the bolt started finger tight.

Thanks for posting the good tip.

I made the mistake of installing the lowest bolts last, instead of first. I couldn't use needle nose pliers, or even a pair of tweezers to hold the nuts. Therefore, I had to resort to using a telescoping magnet to hold the nuts to get them started.

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...net-37187.html

Install the lowest bolts of the windshield first.