Another New TMEC 200

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this thread could be helpful, liking the info. when you talked about spraying the cables can you explain that? i remember seeing someone talking about greasing them so they last longer on some forum on some site, but couldn't find it again… also, having the same bike on its way to me right now, i have a question about tires. i see a lot of people have the street version with 2 17in wheels. i have the dirt bike one with 21 in front 18 in rear tires. are they the same bike, just different size rims? heard one guy put 18 on front instead of the 21, can you all explain the advantages of tire sizes? i personally like the look of the larger front tire, but since ill be mostly on the road, maybe smaller will be better? new rider here. also people talk about changing sprockets? a generic explanation of that would be cool too, assuming it gives more power?

[stretch8668]

Here's link explaining sprockets and what'll work on a lifan but from what I've gathered sprockets will fit a lot of different hondaoid bikes just make sure u measure them http://www.chinariders.netshowthread.php?t=783 here's link for measurements and sprocket sizes if staying with 428 size chain http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/183

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Originally Posted by stretch8668

Here's link explaining sprockets and what'll work on a lifan but from what I've gathered sprockets will fit a lot of different hondaoid bikes just make sure u measure them http://www.chinariders.netshowthread.php?t=783 here's link for measurements and sprocket sizes if staying with 428 size chain http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/183

that first link didn't work, and the second was way over my head. basically anything i get done to the bike, i would have someone else do. just trying to find out things i can get done to it if i want to sup it up. I'm sure the basic set up will be fine for my purposes but trying to learn what is out there to do. so I'm askin what the advantages of different sprockets, tires and wheel sizes etc.. also, i saw somewhere about changing the spark plug? is the spark plug that comes with it not so great? heard if you buy a certain kind they perform better? stupid things like that is what I'm looking for. basically, I'm getting the bike i found on the internet, and wondering what things you guys do to them to make them better. only i need it in very basic terms. such as - if you change you sprockets to this size, this happens. etc.

[culcune]

The one advantage you might have with the 21/18 size wheels is it might use a different rear sprocket. 'Stretch' stated the term 'Hondanoid' which is our collective nickname (can't remember who coined it--maybe FasDoc?) for these bikes which are based on old Honda designs, including the wheels. In other words, you can find sprockets and such easier because many aftermarket companies still make things for old Hondas. However, the 17"/17" setup uses a weird bolt pattern unrelated to old Hondas, for the rear sprockets, and I had to have one custom made for the '09, but had some bad luck with that sprocket (it was made for racing, not commuting, and seemed to eat these cheap chains, which stranded me a few times too many), so had to find an online bike accessories company out of the UK that had a steel aftermarket rear sprocket that fits my bolt pattern since the wheels are based on some European bikes as opposed to the common Hondas.

But, before you do anything to your sprocket, you being new to cycling, you probably should just keep the stock sprocket. It really depends on what kind of speeds you 'need' to maintain. If the roads you will be predominantly on are 45 mph roads, the stock one will be fine. If the speeds are 55 or faster, you will want to choose different roads! For reference, the final 8 miles of my 16 mile commute are on a 50 mph road. Lack of police has pushed the confidence of my fellow commuters up to 70+mph. I am the 'slow poke' doing around 60, which is about what the stock sprocket does. However, I have changed my rear sprocket from the stock 56 to a 48 (on bikes, to get higher top speeds, you change out the front sprocket to more teeth, and the rear sprocket to fewer teeth. You can do just one or the other, or both).

The TMEC comes with a 17 tooth front sprocket as stock, which is about as big as you are going to want or need for higher top speeds/less engine revs. The rear is a 56 tooth which limits your top speed to about 60max, but high revs and uncomfortable. I ordered a 48 tooth rear, which gives me a couple more mph top speed, but also makes cruising at 55 to top speed more palatable by bringing my revs down (keep in mind that everything vibrating tends to loosen bolts and things start falling off unexpectedly (back to locktite, LOL).

Ideally, I would like to find an aftermarket sprocket in the 44 tooth size.

[stretch8668]

First link is under faq in sticky it'll read lifan 428 sprockets and 520 conversion

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by footer

that first link didn't work, and the second was way over my head. basically anything i get done to the bike, i would have someone else do. just trying to find out things i can get done to it if i want to sup it up. I'm sure the basic set up will be fine for my purposes but trying to learn what is out there to do. so I'm askin what the advantages of different sprockets, tires and wheel sizes etc.. also, i saw somewhere about changing the spark plug? is the spark plug that comes with it not so great? heard if you buy a certain kind they perform better? stupid things like that is what I'm looking for. basically, I'm getting the bike i found on the internet, and wondering what things you guys do to them to make them better. only i need it in very basic terms. such as - if you change you sprockets to this size, this happens. etc.

A 21-inch front wheel will perform as well on pavement as an 18-inch front wheel. In addition, a 21-inch front wheel will perform better off road than an 18-inch front wheel. Therefore, I suggest you keep the 21-inch front wheel, and forego the considerable effort, and expense, to convert to a smaller front wheel.

Changing the sprockets changes how the engine delivers power to the rear wheel. A larger rear sprocket increases torque for off road riding, but increases engine rpms at all speeds and reduces top speed. A smaller rear sprocket does the opposite. It reduces torque, but decreases engine rpms at all speeds, and allows for higher speeds.

The front sprocket works exactly opposite. A larger front sprocket decreases torque and increases top speed. A smaller front sprocket increases torque and decreases top speed.

You can alter either, or both sprockets, to achieve the combination of torque and top speed you desire. Divide the number of teeth of the rear sprocket by the number of teeth of the front sprocket to determine the sprocket ratio. A higher sprocket ratio gives more torque, but higher rpms with a lower top speed. A lower sprocket ratio gives more speed, with lower rpms, but less torque.

If you ride technical, off road, you want more torque to climb steep hills at lower speeds. If you ride more on pavement, you want more speed with lower rpms to reduce engine wear, and allow you keep up with the traffic flow on busy streets.

[footer]

wow you guys are great!! right now I'm guessing 90% of my riding will be under 40mph. mainly around town, and on county atv trail. a few miles at 55 mph if i want to go out to the woods to try some off road or out to a friends farm. thinking ill eventually buy a bigger bike - maybe just a regular motorcycle if i want to take road trips at higher speeds and keep this as just a toy. I'm making a list of everything i found to do upon setup, ill make it before i start and try n post to see if I'm forgetting anything - i found a few other thing on youtube that may be overkill, but i think it will help me learn more about the bike. supposedly it will be here towards the end of this week, possibly early next week. thanks again!! and culcune, maybe a list of common problems i may occur with stock equipment? i know you mentioned replacing some lights, the spark plug, and now chain?

[culcune]

Originally Posted by footer

i know you mentioned replacing some lights, the spark plug, and now chain?

My taillight and license plate light bulbs seem to have issues and are constantly going out--the filament gets broken. I can narrow it down to one part of my commute. I work at a state prison; once I get to the frontage road leading to my work, a 1/3 mile stretch of road, it is a poorly maintained, bumpy road. Once I enter the prison complex, I have a mile or so from the front gate to the unit I work--all bumpy. I have to repeat this going home. I think the rear light assembly does not isolate the bumps, something I might be able to 'fix' with the license plate holder/assembly at least by using rubber washers to hold it on. Still not sure on the taillight assembly, however.

Spark plug stock should be fine. However, at least with my old bike, I would have randomly fouled plugs which made the bike seem like it had run out of gas once they were too fouled. So far, on the new bike (and I have NOT touched the carb), the plug is very clean. I simply changed the stock plug to an NGK since they are cheap and psychologically, I figure, are 'better' than the stock plug.

Chain--this is an area where I have changed my advice to you--don't touch the stock sprocket! Especially based on what you said about your riding. And how you probably want to upgrade bikes down the line; I commute on mine and have to maintain 55 to 60 mph for about 6 to 8 miles straight depending on route I take. I did ride the first two weeks or so with the stock sprocket, but felt I could no longer stand the vibrations at that speed, just like my old bike.

A little background, then, about my '09 bike--I found a place that made custom sprockets, Rebel Gears. I had them make a 40 tooth rear sprocket since I figured the aftermarket 48 tooth sprocket which was/is commercially available was not going to make too much difference, so went all out with the 40 tooth.

The problem with the sprocket--it was kind of narrow, and made of lightweight alloy. It ended up chewing through a few chains. It was made for racing, not commuting; it wasn't the sprockets fault. This time, I did my 'homework' and tracked down a 'proper' replacement sprocket (one commercially available vs. custom made) and it was slightly wider and made of steel. It has shown an improvement over the stock 56 on the few mile sections of my commute where I am running at high speeds.

You should not play with sprockets at this point--keep the stock one. Later on, maybe you want to do some minor touring, then worry about it; for now, the stock one will get you around town and on the short sections of 55 mph highway.

Hope that helps. Your first concern is to get the bike assembled correctly, and then started, and then ride it to break it in. Then, much later, worry about plugs, chains and sprockets...

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yes! first ill get it put together, and tool around town. i know i am getting ahead of myself, just waiting for it to get here has my mind wandering. i am very appreciative of all your help, I'm sure holding my hand with these basic questions isn't what this site is for.

[SpudRider]

We enjoy helping people. We have a lot of nice, helpful members on these forums.

[culcune]

Originally Posted by footer

I'm sure holding my hand with these basic questions isn't what this site is for.

Actually, that is what the site was founded on.

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alright another question, mainly directed at culcune since you have put together the same bike… i have the basic tools - sockets, wrenches, allen wrenches (guessing everything will be metric?)… but is there anything motorcycle specific ill need? on one youtube assembly video i watched they mentioned some spreader for brake caliper or something. maybe not needed on my bike, but wanted to make sure i (or my friend helping me might have it) have everything ready to go. i also saw them using a tool to tighten the spokes. also they pulled apart electrical connections and put in dielectric grease and siliconed the backside of the connections to keep water out which I'm assuming is overkill, just wondering if anyone else went that far…

[culcune]

No special tools used. The spokes are already assembled, and there are bits of plastic holding the brakes open. Just don't remove them until you are ready to attach the wheel. In fact, thinking back, and looking at photos of the bike out of the crate, the rear wheel is already attached! I cannot remember if I had to put the caliper on, however. I think my forgetfulness is due to the fact that I have removed my rear wheel to get the new sprocket on a week or so after assembly.

Anyway--don't remove the plastic holding the brake open, and don't squeeze it, either! Pour the acid into the battery and get that on the slow charge (okay, you will need access to a battery charger which is a 'special' tool that not everyone possesses, lol)

[footer]

i have a car battery charger, just did a google search on it and sounds like it has to charge at 2 amps or less. ill have to check what mine is, i know it has a low and boost, but never looked at the amps. i also hear ill need a battery maintainer for the winter months… thanks for the pic! I'm so ready to get it on the road!

[culcune]

Another angle