Hawk 250 buy

Tbone3366 · 09-13-2022, 11:53 PM

Im looking at the above as mentioned in the title and for now just would be an in town bike, elevation is 3540ft, what should i expect with the bike? the max speed for the next month or two would be 50 ish mph but thats rare,

what should i look out for

when i get it etc....

Emerikol · 09-14-2022, 05:48 AM

For the elevation you mentioned, either the carb or fuel injected models will be fine. The carb will require a bit of tuning, but by itself wouldn't be a big deal. The FI Hawk will be a bit more ready to go out of the box. As for top speed, these bikes don't go much over 45-50 from the factory. That being said, the gearing is so short that they'll do 45-50 straight up a tree. They run out of legs on the top end, but they don't waste any time getting there. I re-geared mine with a 39-tooth rear sprocket, and I think it was a 15-tooth front sprocket. I can comfortably cruise at 65 or so, and if I tuck in tight and say a prayer or two, I can coax it up to 75-ish. The bike is so light, and the knobbies I have are so aggressive, things are pretty lively at that speed, though. Generally, for an around-town-runabout, a smaller gear change would probably check all your boxes.

When you get the bike, go over every single fastener and make sure they're tight and properly threaded. We've seen a lot of these bikes with very loose hardware and/or cross-threaded fasteners. Most of us immediately opened up the airbox and exhaust, and got a better quality chain. Also make sure the intake and exhaust valves are properly set. If you get the FI model, that's as much as you'll need to do. If you wind up getting the carb model, you'll want to swap out the jets and possibly the needle. Also, change the engine oil as soon as you can. I started my bike long enough to get the oil warm, and then changed it right away. Rotella T-4 15w40 is the go-to for these engines. Once you've got that done, you can take the bike out and about and see if you want to make any suspension changes. Suspension mods are a bit limited for these bikes, but there are some options out there if you really feel like you're not getting what you need out of the ride.

Other than that, welcome to the club, and keep us posted on your journey!

Sport Rider · 09-14-2022, 08:39 AM

Ah...you answered the question I asked on the other thread.

Hawk would be fine. if you are familiar with carbs, that would be ok for your needs. the FI is a bit more maintenance free. if you're not going to do a lot of trail riding, switch the sprockets front and/or rear to get the RPM range where it will suit your style of riding. I also suggest switching to a less aggressive tire tread. the knobbies are a pain on paved roads.

09-13-2022, 11:53 PM	#1
Tbone3366 Join Date: Sep 2022 Posts: 28	Hawk 250 buy Im looking at the above as mentioned in the title and for now just would be an in town bike, elevation is 3540ft, what should i expect with the bike? the max speed for the next month or two would be 50 ish mph but thats rare, what should i look out for when i get it etc....
	0

09-14-2022, 05:48 AM	#2
Emerikol Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Carrollton, GA Posts: 1,465	For the elevation you mentioned, either the carb or fuel injected models will be fine. The carb will require a bit of tuning, but by itself wouldn't be a big deal. The FI Hawk will be a bit more ready to go out of the box. As for top speed, these bikes don't go much over 45-50 from the factory. That being said, the gearing is so short that they'll do 45-50 straight up a tree. They run out of legs on the top end, but they don't waste any time getting there. I re-geared mine with a 39-tooth rear sprocket, and I think it was a 15-tooth front sprocket. I can comfortably cruise at 65 or so, and if I tuck in tight and say a prayer or two, I can coax it up to 75-ish. The bike is so light, and the knobbies I have are so aggressive, things are pretty lively at that speed, though. Generally, for an around-town-runabout, a smaller gear change would probably check all your boxes. When you get the bike, go over every single fastener and make sure they're tight and properly threaded. We've seen a lot of these bikes with very loose hardware and/or cross-threaded fasteners. Most of us immediately opened up the airbox and exhaust, and got a better quality chain. Also make sure the intake and exhaust valves are properly set. If you get the FI model, that's as much as you'll need to do. If you wind up getting the carb model, you'll want to swap out the jets and possibly the needle. Also, change the engine oil as soon as you can. I started my bike long enough to get the oil warm, and then changed it right away. Rotella T-4 15w40 is the go-to for these engines. Once you've got that done, you can take the bike out and about and see if you want to make any suspension changes. Suspension mods are a bit limited for these bikes, but there are some options out there if you really feel like you're not getting what you need out of the ride. Other than that, welcome to the club, and keep us posted on your journey! __________________ First Rule of Aviation: -Never Pass Up The Opportunity to Pee I was struggling to get my wife's attention; I sat down on the couch and looked comfortable. That did the trick! My wife says I only have two faults. I don't listen and something else... If at first you don't succeed, try doing it the way I told you to... The Stable: 2005 Yamaha V-Star 650 - SOLD 2015 Suzuki DR 650 2015 RPS Hawk 250 - SOLD 2016 Ural Gear Up
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09-14-2022, 08:39 AM	#3
Sport Rider Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Mooresville NC Posts: 2,041	Ah...you answered the question I asked on the other thread. Hawk would be fine. if you are familiar with carbs, that would be ok for your needs. the FI is a bit more maintenance free. if you're not going to do a lot of trail riding, switch the sprockets front and/or rear to get the RPM range where it will suit your style of riding. I also suggest switching to a less aggressive tire tread. the knobbies are a pain on paved roads.
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