my brozz is stalling

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

From what I have read over this past year from you folks I think the CDI is a no brainer way to check . They are so cheap to try, order 2 in case ones bad. Did you check the intakes around the carb and cylinder (no leaks?), easy to put out the fire if fuel air is wacked up.

Good point about cdi"s. And another way of telling to look for intake leaks is another good idea.

[jd]

I got it to work
I took it to my friend that is a mechanic, he took it apart change the wire going to the spark plug that got burnt because it was not insulated from the motor. he adjusted the carburetor also and it idles at 1200 rpm. its running smooth now, but I having problems now with the gears. its giving me trouble to get it into neutral. any suggestions.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jd

I got it to work
I took it to my friend that is a mechanic, he took it apart change the wire going to the spark plug that got burnt because it was not insulated from the motor. he adjusted the carburetor also and it idles at 1200 rpm. its running smooth now, but I having problems now with the gears. its giving me trouble to get it into neutral. any suggestions.

Thats common with these engine. It gets better as the engine brakes in. I find it is easy to find neutral when the engine is off?

[jd]

I agree it is easier to find neutral with the engine off.
how long does it take for it to brake in and find neutral with the engine running.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jd

I agree it is easier to find neutral with the engine off.
how long does it take for it to brake in and find neutral with the engine running.

I hear people say after brake in at 500 miles when they switch to synthetic oil. Ive also heard the kind of oil you use can make a big difference. What kind of oil are you using?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Merlin

I hear people say after brake in at 500 miles when they switch to synthetic oil. Ive also heard the kind of oil you use can make a big difference. What kind of oil are you using?

I used Quicksilver 20W50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil after the first 100 miles. The oil I drained out had a nice metal flake to it. After I changed the oil I had no more problems shifting in neutral. The first time I ran the motor with the so called oil that came in it. I let it run for about 30 minutes to clean it out. Man that stuff was nasty. So wash, rinse, repeat. I will more than likely change it again this weekend to make sure I get it all out. I put over 200 mile on it over the weekend.

[BlackBike]

I think the neutral thing is just inherent with the small displacement engine. It can get worse or easy depending on wear. I find it really easy (shifting) after oil changes but can get stubborn at later times. I usually make a point to find neutral when coasting to a stop and I know I want to shut down. The 50 weight oil will probably help shifting but for those speed performance folks, i believe it will slow it down a tad (thicker oil=higher resistance in gear train). I may try it (50 weight) myself since I dumped the rest of my Rotella in my little case tractor.

Cudos on the miles jerry. That nasty look is the clutch plates degrading, normal wear which happens.

Jerryhawk250...coming to a road near you!

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

I think the neutral thing is just inherent with the small displacement engine. It can get worse or easy depending on wear. I find it really easy (shifting) after oil changes but can get stubborn at later times. I usually make a point to find neutral when coasting to a stop and I know I want to shut down. The 50 weight oil will probably help shifting but for those speed performance folks, i believe it will slow it down a tad (thicker oil=higher resistance in gear train). I may try it (50 weight) myself since I dumped the rest of my Rotella in my little case tractor.

Cudos on the miles jerry. That nasty look is the clutch plates degrading, normal wear which happens.

Jerryhawk250...coming to a road near you!

I'm using 50 weight because it is still hot as hell here down south but will put 40 weight on the next oil change. It should start cooling down this month.

[Fame28]

I can tell you my bike absolutely would not ever go into neutral in the beginning, I switched to Honda GN4 Oil from the motorycle shop down the street and the bike shifts beautifully now.

[jd]

well I took out the oil that came with it and put in the rotella 15w 40.
is this a good choice.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jd

well I took out the oil that came with it and put in the rotella 15w 40.
is this a good choice.

A long as its the stuff in the white jug.

[jd]

yes its the rotella t triple 15w 40 in the white jug
how often should I change the oil

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by jd

yes its the rotella t triple 15w 40 in the white jug
how often should I change the oil

I changed the oil before I started the bike for the first time then I did it again after the first 20 miles then at 120 Ill do it again at 500. At that stage you can go 1000 miles between changes. Some folks start using Synthetic oil at 500 miles. This is what I plan on doing.

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by Merlin

I changed the oil before I started the bike for the first time then I did it again after the first 20 miles then at 120 Ill do it again at 500. At that stage you can go 1000 miles between changes. Some folks start using Synthetic oil at 500 miles. This is what I plan on doing.

the manual states not to use oils with additives or synthec because of clutch????? is this untrue?

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by timcosby

the manual states not to use oils with additives or synthec because of clutch????? is this untrue?

Its true that that oil with additives gets into the plates and makes them slick so the clutch slips. You can use synthetic if its free of additives. Its best to only use oil rated for a wet clutch. After brake in I plan on using rotella synthetic.