Fun with TurboT's Gio Beast - Page 6

PCD · 11-19-2009, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Mr. Die Grinder (of the 120 volt family) is much more agressive.

Pete, did you have an exhaust gasket? If not, I can point you to an eBay vendor that sells a pack of four for cheap.

Also, do you think you might have a vaccuum leak where the intake meets the head? Just curious. In T's case, it sure explains why the PO couldn't make it run.

I have every air tool known to man...at work

unfortunatly I do not have a compressor at home so I finesse it with a Dremel or murder it with an angle grinder.

Oh, I tried a pair of those Nitrile gloves, but I cant seem to get them over my ears.....

Weldangrind · 09-05-2010, 02:55 AM

A further update on TurboT's quad (this is at your request, Mizke):

T and I dismantled the rear axle and swingarm of his Beast for service, and we have a few things that are noteworthy. First, just pound both swingarm bushings out from the same side. Find a socket or a piece of tube that matches the OD of the bushing, and give 'er.

Second, we can confirm that the same 1/4" difference occurs with T's rear axle as mine. That is, the axle mounts are 1/4" wider than the mounts on the swingarm. Spacers cut from DOM tube solved that.

Third, the bearings in the axle housing are sealed, but T's were totally dead. So much so that it was difficult to turn the rear axle by hand with the rear wheels removed. I removed the axle from the housing and pounded out the bearings. I'll be picking up new bearings and seals next week, and I drilled and tapped the housing for a zerk. I'm not going to reuse the tube that sits between the bearings, because the housing is stepped inside, meaning that the bearings can only go in so far.

Axle tube with spacer:

Bearing and seal:

Bare axle housing with step:

Tapping for 1/4-28 threads (use a #3 bit for the hole size):

New zerk:

It's totally worth it to have the #3 bit and 1/4-28 tap. You can buy these items individually at most industrial tool shops. The purpose of the new zerk is to fill the space between the bearings with grease, which displaces water.

mizke · 09-05-2010, 03:00 AM

thanks dude, nice write up..

question tho how far down in the axle housing do the bearings sit ?

Weldangrind · 09-05-2010, 03:10 AM

You're welcome.

If you look at the photo of the bare axle housing, you'll see the step that is about 1" down. The space from the step to the surface is occupied by the bearing and the seal.

BTW, the replacement seal doesn't need to be exactly the same width as the original; the only things that really matter are ID and OD. I'll report part numbers upon purchasing replacements.

mizke · 09-05-2010, 03:24 AM

alright as well as posting them here, pm them to me and i will add them to the thread i started with the honda/yamaha part numbers that work with our quad...

can you snap a picture of the whole axle not hte axle housing

Weldangrind · 09-05-2010, 03:27 AM

Sure, when I reassemble the axle, I'll photograph the whole deal and provide part numbers.

mizke · 09-05-2010, 03:31 AM

so the actual axle it self is 2 peices ? im just curious cuz looking at the bearings the i.d. part of the bearing looks rather small, so i was just curious about that..

Weldangrind · 09-05-2010, 12:18 PM

The axle is one long shaft that extends from wheel to wheel. It passes through two bearings in the axle housing, and is only supported in the housing. It will make more sense when I photograph the reassembly, which I'll do after buying new bearings and seals.

TurboT · 09-06-2010, 02:32 AM

Was going to type up a report and figured it best go here instead of a new thread.

I just finished up a 3 day period of clobbering this quad. Since I've had it, there was always something else to do so I would take it relatively easy on it. After W&G and I's 8 hour adventure on Thursday, it was time to take some of the love back we've been giving.

So the Beast now has a mikuni carb, UNI Air Filter, monster exhaust pipe, performance cdi, ngk plug and plug wire, gio performance front shocks, yamaha swing arm bushings, RK MXZ Chain. (Did I forget anything?)

This thing pulls hard through the RPM range. Exhaust note is just plain wicked sounding in the saddle when hard upshifting under load. Example: Hitting 2nd after a high rpm run in 1st, or 2nd to 3rd etc. Wish I could capture that sound and share it here but hard to do at that speed. The motor is vibration unbalanced mess in first gear, but hit second at speed and it feels smooth and like it should.

I abused this thing hard. My wife rode it, my friends rode it, I rode it with kids two upping in front of me over rough, bumpy ground. I can't give you an hour meter but it was extensive running time over the course of the weekend. I threw the chain ONCE all weekend...and I deserved it. I had it revving hard in first fishtailing over rocks then hit a bump sideways, landed and knocked the chain off. This was at the end of the weekend. Put it back on, went back at it, no more chain coming off. Yes I had a hoot with it.

Some things of note:
Get rid of those crap bolts that hold the swingarm to the axle. Weldangrind and I stripped one putting it back together, and then I lost one at some point over the weekend. I said "f it" and rode on without it, and even then only lost the chain the one time.. but need some better bolts there and perhaps some nuts on the back side of them just to be safe.

The thing is a gas pig. It likes fuel. My YZ 250F doesn't use as much gas as this thing. I can't believe how many times I added fuel to it this weekend...ran out in the middle of the field on me, and then my wife a second time.

The Monster muffler has a restrictor plate inside which is now loose and rattles. I heard a weird noise and looked in the pipe and can see it 'turning' in there and vibrating... might be a sign we're still too restrictive here, and it just might need to come out.

My damn brake light housing broke and now my light is dangling there. Just cheap metal frame, it obviously couldn't take the constant 10,000 RPM.

Easily fixable but it is always 'something.'

My last note on this novel. I cannot recommend Castrol 10/40 ATV oil anymore. I changed the oil today.. thought I should since it was running so hard. The stuff came out looking like sewer water. Wasn't thick at all, dark, and just plain didn't look like anything resembling oil. I'm sure it was thick and nicely golden when it went in there. I know it won't come out looking like it's new but it was the ugliest 'OIL' I've ever changed. It did not hold up well in this motor.

I put in MOTUL 5100 Semi Synthetic 10/40. Thing shifts smooth like butter, hardly any issue in and out of reverse and neutral. It's expensive, but the quad is happier for it.

mizke · 09-06-2010, 02:54 AM

sounds like you guys had a blast over the weekend.

um castrol 4t oil is a greenish color when fresh, but i am also going to look into the motul 5100 Semi Synthetic 10/40 but i would want to stay full sythetic 4 stroke wet clutch oil.. i always use full synthetic in everything..i wish royal purple woudl come out with some 4 stroke motorcycle oil for use with wet clutchs.. id be buying that stuff the day it comes out

TurboT · 09-06-2010, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mizke

um castrol 4t oil is a greenish color when fresh, but i am also going to look into the motul 5100 Semi Synthetic 10/40 but i would want to stay full sythetic 4 stroke wet clutch oil.. i always use full synthetic in everything..i wish royal purple woudl come out with some 4 stroke motorcycle oil for use with wet clutchs.. id be buying that stuff the day it comes out

Considering it came out like black greenish WATER I will not be using it again. I'd also like to add, we had an oops a couple weekends ago with the oil filler cap not being on and someone took it for a spin before he noticed. Ended up putting another half litre of fresh oil in at that time. I didn't expect it to look that runny.

mizke · 09-06-2010, 03:36 AM

thats odd, every time ive changed mine it comes out like used oil out of a car.. maybe a little more runnier then when it was fresh, but clearly you guys ride more then i do and i have yet to put my quad through a whole weekend of abuse. so im going to head your advice and look into switching to a different oil..

Weldangrind · 09-06-2010, 04:21 AM

It sure looked like T was having a good time. I watched from the safety of the deck while I nursed my neck injury. :(

His quad is really impressive. I can't wait to perform the same mods to mine.

mizke · 09-06-2010, 04:25 AM

you guys should pick up a pair of those ignition coils i have posted in the general section found a super duper deal on them on ebay from a seller i trust.. 50% - 60% off anywhere else you would find them at

TurboT · 09-06-2010, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It sure looked like T was having a good time. I watched from the safety of the deck while I nursed my neck injury. :(

His quad is really impressive. I can't wait to perform the same mods to mine.

When we tearing it down?

09-05-2010, 02:55 AM	#77
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	A further update on TurboT's quad (this is at your request, Mizke): T and I dismantled the rear axle and swingarm of his Beast for service, and we have a few things that are noteworthy. First, just pound both swingarm bushings out from the same side. Find a socket or a piece of tube that matches the OD of the bushing, and give 'er. Second, we can confirm that the same 1/4" difference occurs with T's rear axle as mine. That is, the axle mounts are 1/4" wider than the mounts on the swingarm. Spacers cut from DOM tube solved that. Third, the bearings in the axle housing are sealed, but T's were totally dead. So much so that it was difficult to turn the rear axle by hand with the rear wheels removed. I removed the axle from the housing and pounded out the bearings. I'll be picking up new bearings and seals next week, and I drilled and tapped the housing for a zerk. I'm not going to reuse the tube that sits between the bearings, because the housing is stepped inside, meaning that the bearings can only go in so far. Axle tube with spacer: Bearing and seal: Bare axle housing with step: Tapping for 1/4-28 threads (use a #3 bit for the hole size): New zerk: It's totally worth it to have the #3 bit and 1/4-28 tap. You can buy these items individually at most industrial tool shops. The purpose of the new zerk is to fill the space between the bearings with grease, which displaces water. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

09-05-2010, 03:10 AM	#79
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	You're welcome. If you look at the photo of the bare axle housing, you'll see the step that is about 1" down. The space from the step to the surface is occupied by the bearing and the seal. BTW, the replacement seal doesn't need to be exactly the same width as the original; the only things that really matter are ID and OD. I'll report part numbers upon purchasing replacements. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

09-05-2010, 03:27 AM	#81
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Sure, when I reassemble the axle, I'll photograph the whole deal and provide part numbers. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

09-05-2010, 12:18 PM	#83
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	The axle is one long shaft that extends from wheel to wheel. It passes through two bearings in the axle housing, and is only supported in the housing. It will make more sense when I photograph the reassembly, which I'll do after buying new bearings and seals. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

09-06-2010, 04:21 AM	#88
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	It sure looked like T was having a good time. I watched from the safety of the deck while I nursed my neck injury. :( His quad is really impressive. I can't wait to perform the same mods to mine. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

09-05-2010, 03:00 AM	#78
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	thanks dude, nice write up.. question tho how far down in the axle housing do the bearings sit ?
	0

09-05-2010, 03:24 AM	#80
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	alright as well as posting them here, pm them to me and i will add them to the thread i started with the honda/yamaha part numbers that work with our quad... can you snap a picture of the whole axle not hte axle housing
	0

09-05-2010, 03:31 AM	#82
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	so the actual axle it self is 2 peices ? im just curious cuz looking at the bearings the i.d. part of the bearing looks rather small, so i was just curious about that..
	0

09-06-2010, 02:32 AM	#84
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Was going to type up a report and figured it best go here instead of a new thread. I just finished up a 3 day period of clobbering this quad. Since I've had it, there was always something else to do so I would take it relatively easy on it. After W&G and I's 8 hour adventure on Thursday, it was time to take some of the love back we've been giving. So the Beast now has a mikuni carb, UNI Air Filter, monster exhaust pipe, performance cdi, ngk plug and plug wire, gio performance front shocks, yamaha swing arm bushings, RK MXZ Chain. (Did I forget anything?) This thing pulls hard through the RPM range. Exhaust note is just plain wicked sounding in the saddle when hard upshifting under load. Example: Hitting 2nd after a high rpm run in 1st, or 2nd to 3rd etc. Wish I could capture that sound and share it here but hard to do at that speed. The motor is vibration unbalanced mess in first gear, but hit second at speed and it feels smooth and like it should. I abused this thing hard. My wife rode it, my friends rode it, I rode it with kids two upping in front of me over rough, bumpy ground. I can't give you an hour meter but it was extensive running time over the course of the weekend. I threw the chain ONCE all weekend...and I deserved it. I had it revving hard in first fishtailing over rocks then hit a bump sideways, landed and knocked the chain off. This was at the end of the weekend. Put it back on, went back at it, no more chain coming off. Yes I had a hoot with it. Some things of note: Get rid of those crap bolts that hold the swingarm to the axle. Weldangrind and I stripped one putting it back together, and then I lost one at some point over the weekend. I said "f it" and rode on without it, and even then only lost the chain the one time.. but need some better bolts there and perhaps some nuts on the back side of them just to be safe. The thing is a gas pig. It likes fuel. My YZ 250F doesn't use as much gas as this thing. I can't believe how many times I added fuel to it this weekend...ran out in the middle of the field on me, and then my wife a second time. The Monster muffler has a restrictor plate inside which is now loose and rattles. I heard a weird noise and looked in the pipe and can see it 'turning' in there and vibrating... might be a sign we're still too restrictive here, and it just might need to come out. My damn brake light housing broke and now my light is dangling there. Just cheap metal frame, it obviously couldn't take the constant 10,000 RPM. Easily fixable but it is always 'something.' My last note on this novel. I cannot recommend Castrol 10/40 ATV oil anymore. I changed the oil today.. thought I should since it was running so hard. The stuff came out looking like sewer water. Wasn't thick at all, dark, and just plain didn't look like anything resembling oil. I'm sure it was thick and nicely golden when it went in there. I know it won't come out looking like it's new but it was the ugliest 'OIL' I've ever changed. It did not hold up well in this motor. I put in MOTUL 5100 Semi Synthetic 10/40. Thing shifts smooth like butter, hardly any issue in and out of reverse and neutral. It's expensive, but the quad is happier for it.
	0

09-06-2010, 02:54 AM	#85
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	sounds like you guys had a blast over the weekend. um castrol 4t oil is a greenish color when fresh, but i am also going to look into the motul 5100 Semi Synthetic 10/40 but i would want to stay full sythetic 4 stroke wet clutch oil.. i always use full synthetic in everything..i wish royal purple woudl come out with some 4 stroke motorcycle oil for use with wet clutchs.. id be buying that stuff the day it comes out
	0

09-06-2010, 03:36 AM	#87
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	thats odd, every time ive changed mine it comes out like used oil out of a car.. maybe a little more runnier then when it was fresh, but clearly you guys ride more then i do and i have yet to put my quad through a whole weekend of abuse. so im going to head your advice and look into switching to a different oil..
	0

09-06-2010, 04:25 AM	#89
mizke Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: austin, tx Posts: 1,452	you guys should pick up a pair of those ignition coils i have posted in the general section found a super duper deal on them on ebay from a seller i trust.. 50% - 60% off anywhere else you would find them at
	0