08-06-2022, 12:01 AM
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#331 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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A damp weekend at wiring, kinda
My odometer is telling me I have done over 70km/45miles of riding in my backyard.
Before I overdo it and break something I think its time to finish the electrics and get the bike ready for a roadworthy inspection and hopefully a certificate pass... Before I make all the permanent connections I am just going over to make sure all the switch gear and continuity is in check. So far it appears the brakes, indicators and head lights are in order. Then while in the garage I saw the the XL350 fuel tank being irksome. So I decided to make a executive decision and use a selection of persuaders. The main issue with the tank was the seat clearance and eye level with the tank fouling with the top fork clamp nuts, so something had to give and it was decided to index dent the tank to clear the clamp bolt heads. The tank was already dented so adding a couple more wasn't going to hurt it. 1000 taps later I think i managed enough allowance for now. It's rough but now has legitimate use potential later on... Anyway back to wiring... |
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08-07-2022, 08:36 PM
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#332 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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the CD Lie
So for the longest time the bike was papping and running rough..
Killed a spark plug...thought it was overrich. I though perhaps its valve/cam/timing issues so that got addressed...rough run issues persisted. then the Nibbi carb install over the PZ30-B...still rough at low RPM and papping....many jets and A/F screw adjustments to no avail... 3rd coil...no difference. I started to think perhaps its the CDI that was new with the replacement loom... So i installed the old CDI from the hacked loom... 1 touch of the start button... The bike fired up and started to run like well oiled machine and the tach responed with a solid display output... So that was it all along, a faulty new CDI unit.... That complete china wiring loom kit was the primary issue. also replaced the 'new' rectifier after it cooked itself with the original that came with the hacked loom and CG250 basket engine. Appears all the gremlins are finally gone now. |
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12-09-2022, 03:33 AM
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#333 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Fully Wired
Finished the wiring.
I ditched the relays and purchased LED indicators with inbuilt flasher units. keep it simple... Also because the digital dash uses a speed sensor Electronic pickup with my XL/XR adapter I don't need to use the long loop cable bracket that was required for the mechanical twist speed sender. So made a simpler cleaner bracket and can wrap the brake and speed cable together... I was close to completion but I literally ran out of loom wrap tape to "wrap things up" This year was still a bit too hectic to get the bike on the road. Plenty if other priority things to do etc. Start of 2023 will be the roadworthy inspection and fingers crossed registration plate... I'll call it a 42nd birthday present. |
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12-09-2022, 09:39 AM
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#334 |
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Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,577
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Looks like you have done a great job on the bike .Get off your ass ,and get it on the road .Pretty sure it’s a “thing “ to ride year round at the bottom of the world ,so when things are “hectic” ,you can steal some time and go for a spin to get a break .
Once again ,the bike looks great . |
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12-09-2022, 04:14 PM
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#335 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Quote:
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12-12-2022, 01:59 AM
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#336 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Tweakin the Kick Lever
Even though i have E'start with the CG engine.
The Xl185 was originally kick start. So not having it as part of the bikes DNA made it feel incomplete... Call it maintaining integrity while adding weight but also adding more fail safe reliability. The original kick lever did fit to the CG250 spline shaft just fine but needed some welding to take out some slop at the base and also up top to clear the heat shield...which it was fouling on. So made a cut and opened the gap enough for clearance and zapped it together again... cleaned the welds, wire wheeled and sprayed it with the same paint the bash plate and brake pedal were coated in... |
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12-16-2022, 05:47 AM
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#338 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Can anyone chime in regarding weather the wiring loom typically routes low around the head stock into the back of a lamp bucket...or
the loom rides higher on the frame around the headstock.. or the loom enters the lamp bucket lower... I am having issues when turning full lock to lock where the loom slack rides up and around the head stem keylock protrusion on full left lock (gets hung up)...which takes out the slack when turning full right putting strain on the connections . There is obviously some slack to allow for turns...but im just wondering if i have the routing set suboptimally. |
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12-16-2022, 05:55 PM
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#340 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Main Loom into Lamp
Oviously the current electrical outlay is not exactly the same as what was originally on the 6volt XL185 setup.
If I vaguely recall I think the main loom used to enter the black service box under the lamp bucket and then connect and branch up into the lamp bucket...which was a bit strange...Honda had some quirks. Trying to enter the back of the lamp bucket has literally hit a snag... So I am going to shoot for the middle and enter the main loom into low entry point of the lamp bucket, however there is a bracket edge that might need some shaving to prevent the loom cutting itself with friction while turning. Could I have had the roadworthy inspection as was and passed...perhaps. But Also the inspector might pickup on such things and strike a fail... |
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12-16-2022, 08:15 PM
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#341 |
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,281
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Notched and done.
Got the rotary tool and carbide bur bit and made an notch in the bracket that supports the Honda cable break out box.
Made enough clearance without any major structural impact for the main Loom to slip in between and up into the lamp bucket. Added a cable tie for its name sake to help prevent the loom from chaffing with long term left to right turns. Seems to have worked out well and the loom doesn't kink up and loop over the stem steering lock like before... Also cut the ends of the lamp lens guard to make it a slip install as the closed bolt hole ends made install very difficult otherwise... So the glass lens should be safe now (touch wood) This basically completes the primary build as intended. 
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Linear Mode
