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Old 06-07-2016, 06:54 PM   #1
invertedhorizons   invertedhorizons is offline
 
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Hawk 250 front wheel assembly

Hi guys. Just got my hawk 250, as you know it did not come with assembly instructions. (Are there any real instructions?) , the front wheel assembly has the silver bushing but when i try to align it inside the forks it seems to be pushing the forks apart too much and keeps the tire from being alligned,

What is the sequence?, main bolt, fork, bushing , speedo assembly, wheel , fork, nut?

Any help would be great plugging along on assembly.. Sorry for noob question

Thx!!


 
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:14 PM   #2
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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No problem man!

It should go nut,fork,bushing,wheel,speedo,fork,bolt
Also, the bushing will fit into the left side of the wheel.
From the perspective of sitting on the bike, if your standing in front of the bike, reverse the order.

Hope that helps!



Last edited by mq1991; 06-07-2016 at 08:08 PM.
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:25 PM   #3
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
No problem man!

It should go nut,fork,bushing,wheel,speedo,fork,bolt

From the perspective of sitting on the bike, if your standing in front of the bike, reverse the order.

Hope that helps!
I have questions, what size is that nut, is it available in a nylock nut? Wonder what the tork is, I don't tighten too tight for fear of bearing damage.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:04 PM   #4
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
I have questions, what size is that nut, is it available in a nylock nut? Wonder what the tork is, I don't tighten too tight for fear of bearing damage.
Unsure of the size, but i believe the manual says 45ft lbs for the front and 65ft lbs for the rear.



Last edited by mq1991; 06-08-2016 at 10:31 PM.
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:55 PM   #5
invertedhorizons   invertedhorizons is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
No problem man!

It should go nut,fork,bushing,wheel,speedo,fork,bolt
Also, the bushing will fit into the left side of the wheel.
From the perspective of sitting on the bike, if your standing in front of the bike, reverse the order.

Hope that helps!
got it! appreciate it, almost done with assembly. really big help, along with the video on the FAQs i was able to figure almost everything out... was missing the 3 nuts from the back of the Speedo that mount it to the bike, gotta pick those up from ACE tomorrow also.


 
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:03 AM   #6
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by invertedhorizons View Post
got it! appreciate it, almost done with assembly. really big help, along with the video on the FAQs i was able to figure almost everything out... was missing the 3 nuts from the back of the Speedo that mount it to the bike, gotta pick those up from ACE tomorrow also.
Awesome!

I picked up this assortment of nuts and bolts, works great when something random goes missing!

http://www.harborfreight.com/725-pie...ray-67624.html

They work great for non-critical uses, such as fairings, exhaust shields, and mounting your speedo.


 
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:32 AM   #7
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
I have questions, what size is that nut, is it available in a nylock nut? Wonder what the tork is, I don't tighten too tight for fear of bearing damage.


Welcome!



Blue Loctite is always a good idea. As well, if you have sufficient thread sticking out beyond the nut, you can drill a small hole through the axle for a cotter pin. it won't be captured like with a castle nut, but it'll stop the nut from falling off.
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:44 AM   #8
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Get some of these instead of the regular cotter pins... these are Re-Usable and easy to install/remove each time too



Check your local Home Depot and see if they have them... search for "Ring Cotter" and make sure you look at your local stores for availability

http://www.homedepot.com/b/N-5yc1v/N...estoreoption=1
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:31 PM   #9
kohburn   kohburn is offline
 
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never used that kind of cotter ring.


this is the kind I've used





the bowtie cotter pins work well too





McMaster carr referse to those as locking cotter pins



http://www.mcmaster.com/#=12rllxs
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:54 PM   #10
wilserchinarider   wilserchinarider is offline
 
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This video shows the front wheel assembly at the 2 min mark,



Last edited by wilserchinarider; 06-08-2016 at 03:28 PM.
 
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:49 PM   #11
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by wilserchinarider View Post
This video shows the front wheel assembly at the 2 min mark, looking at the video and my Hawk, it appears the bushng is cast into the lower fork???
The bushing I am referring to is at the 2:37 mark, he obstructs the camera for a second, but then its shown inserted into the wheel.


 
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:30 PM   #12
wilserchinarider   wilserchinarider is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
The bushing I am referring to is at the 2:37 mark, he obstructs the camera for a second, but then its shown inserted into the wheel.
You are absolutely correct...thank you!
Deleted the misinformation in my post above.


 
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:25 PM   #13
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
Unsure of the size, but i believe the manual days 45ft lbs for the front and 65ft lbs for the rear.
sounds good to me , will do, taking note

want to replace with nylocks one of these days
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:51 AM   #14
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Hawk 250 rear wheel torque

Hello, when I replaced the rear sprocket, I read that the rear axle bolt spec of 65ft-lbs of torque. Has anyone torqued to that. It seems like when I tighten the rear it's just not going to snug up to that. I have everything in place. I just don't want to crunch the rear tubes if not necessary.


 
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:07 AM   #15
mq1991   mq1991 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Musictrek View Post
Hello, when I replaced the rear sprocket, I read that the rear axle bolt spec of 65ft-lbs of torque. Has anyone torqued to that. It seems like when I tighten the rear it's just not going to snug up to that. I have everything in place. I just don't want to crunch the rear tubes if not necessary.
I think there may have been some different versions of the tubes that came out of the factory. Mine seems just fine, but I have seen reports of other people having problems. I would put some red loctite on it, and torque to 45ft/lbs. Mark the nut and swing arm with a paint pen so you can see if it moves at all. Keep an eye on it for awhile just to make sure it doesn't loosen on ya.


 
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