New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[SpudRider]

How do people like their CSC centerstands? Are the new springs holding up? Please check in, and let us know.

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

How do people like their CSC centerstands? Are the new springs holding up? Please check in, and let us know.

I'd let you know, but I'm not having any luck getting my spring on. The tool I usually use isn't working for this application. I will say, that the spring mount and spring itself are much sturdier.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

I'd let you know, but I'm not having any luck getting my spring on. The tool I usually use isn't working for this application. I will say, that the spring mount and spring itself are much sturdier.

Thank you, Tony. You might want to get one of these Tusk Spring Pullers.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...pring%20puller

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Tony, you can also insert a dime in between each coil of the spring. It will grow a considerable amount, allowing you to easily place the spring over the tangs. After it's in place, just pop the dimes out. Thin washers work as well.

Great idea! Thank you, Weld. I have plenty of washers.

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Thank you, Tony. You might want to get one of these Tusk Spring Pullers.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...pring%20puller

I purchased a Stockton spring puller from Cycle Gear. The first pull on the spring, ripped the hook right out. I think they were meant for brake springs and the like.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

...I purchased a Stockton spring puller from Cycle Gear. The first pull on the spring, ripped the hook right out. I think they were meant for brake springs and the like.

Yes, this puller is specified for exhaust springs. Thanks for the warning.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

Great idea! Thank you, Weld. I have plenty of washers.

I'm happy to pass that tip on. I learned it from a smart gentleman on another forum.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by G19Tony

I'd let you know, but I'm not having any luck getting my spring on. The tool I usually use isn't working for this application. I will say, that the spring mount and spring itself are much sturdier.

Tony, you can also insert a dime in between each coil of the spring. It will grow a considerable amount, allowing you to easily place the spring over the tangs. After it's in place, just pop the dimes out. Thin washers work as well.

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Tony, you can also insert a dime in between each coil of the spring. It will grow a considerable amount, allowing you to easily place the spring over the tangs. After it's in place, just pop the dimes out. Thin washers work as well.

Weld, that is the first time I've heard this way of getting the spring on and it sounds like a great idea. I almost want to take my spring off and give it a try
I had a friend help me and it wasn't easy trying to pry it down with a bar then slip it over to the peg groove. Probably not very good on the spring either distorting it around to get it on.
G19tony try the dime ,washer trick and let us know if it works better then strong arming it. It looks to be the easiest way to do it.
Also loosen the bolt that holds the spring mount plate to the frame so that the plate angles down and gets the spring closer to the center stand peg mount. Than after spring is on just tighten up the bolt. rj

[SpudRider]

Today I started experimenting with the shock spring preload. Upon inspection, the RX3 shock absorber looks nice and beefy, with a large spring. After loosening the nut on the locking ring, I reduced the spring preload by moving the lock nut up the shock absorber. After three full turns, all of the preload was gone, and the spring was loose. Therefore, the spring preload on my bike, set at the factory, was at its minimum setting.

I tightened the spring preload back to the original setting, and added three more turns to increase the spring preload over the minimum setting. I went for a ride, and the shock performance was improved. However, I still need to add more spring preload before I find the optimum setting for my weight and preferred riding conditions.

I had to remove the battery and battery holder to gain enough access to loosen the nut on the locking ring of the shock. However, after that point, the rest of the process was very easy. I have a lot adjustment space available for the shock preload, so I am optimistic regarding the outcome. I continue to be impressed with the quality of this motorcycle.

[SpudRider]

CSC Cyclone RX3 owners in North America can use the two, auxiliary power connectors to provide electricity for devices other than the cigarette lighter and USB port. For example, I will be connecting a pair of heated grips to one of the auxiliary ports, which will be controlled by the switch on the right handlebar. The second, auxiliary power connector can be used to power extra lights, heated jackets, or any other electrical device.



The cigarette lighter and USB power ports on the CSC Cyclone RX3 motorcycles are connected to the special wiring harness, and receive power controlled by the ignition switch.

[jimjr21]

25.6hp @ 8994 rpm
This is a brake dyno of some type. Easy to tell by the rpm time trace. Engine is at maximum rpm then is pulled down to lower rpm over 6 seconds. These types of dyno's are hard on engines.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by jimjr21

25.6hp @ 8994 rpm
This is a brake dyno of some type. Easy to tell by the rpm time trace. Engine is at maximum rpm then is pulled down to lower rpm over 6 seconds. These types of dyno's are hard on engines.

I have no personal experience with dyno sheets, but I've reviewed several over the years. I am struggling to understand the inverse curve at the bottom of the graph, and I'm failing to get which curve represents torque.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I have no personal experience with dyno sheets, but I've reviewed several over the years. I am struggling to understand the inverse curve at the bottom of the graph, and I'm failing to get which curve represents torque.

I'm not sure but I think the inverse curve is the fuel consumption rate

Grams per kilowatt hour (g/kwh)

X axis Dyno rpm

y axis g/kwh on the right, goes up to 377.5

There seems to be 2 graphs in one going on here

The "Meo" curve seems to represent torque or at least the "torque revise" figures, what the hell that is I've no idea.

X axis dyno rpm

y axis (on right) Nm - ranging from 17.61 to 21.90 and above

[jimjr21]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I have no personal experience with dyno sheets, but I've reviewed several over the years. I am struggling to understand the inverse curve at the bottom of the graph, and I'm failing to get which curve represents torque.

Two curves at the bottom deal with fuel.

Straight upwards is amount of fuel used.

Inverse curve shows efficiency of transferring potential energy of fuel into mechanical energy.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

I'm not sure but I think the inverse curve is the fuel consumption rate

Grams per kilowatt hour (g/kwh)

X axis Dyno rpm

y axis g/kwh on the right, goes up to 377.5

There seems to be 2 graphs in one going on here

The "Meo" curve seems to represent torque or at least the "torque revise" figures, what the hell that is I've no idea.

X axis dyno rpm

y axis (on right) Nm - ranging from 17.61 to 21.90 and above

Originally Posted by jimjr21

Two curves at the bottom deal with fuel.

Straight upwards is amount of fuel used.

Inverse curve shows efficiency of transferring potential energy of fuel into mechanical energy.

Thanks for the explanation, gentlemen. Fuel consumption vs. energy created hadn't occurred to me.

Can you further explain which curve is torque and which is hp? I think I know the answer, but I want to be sure.