2001 F150 5.4 swap over per request 😉

Landsvw · 10-15-2016, 02:26 PM

Weldangrind wanted me to start a thread on my latest project, so here it is so far...

I've always liked the 1997-2002 style of ford f150's, but also have always wanted the super crew cab, as we've had the extended cab version for years, but not quite enough room for 5 or 6 people when traveling a distance. The supercrew cabs, tho, are very expensive. About a month ago, one showed up in Grants Pass Oregon craigslist for 1600$, had 235k miles, a big dent in drivers door, and potentially a bad engine. I offered him 1400$, he accepted. I got it towed home for 275$. Oh, and meanwhile, I'd sold my extended cab to a friend for 2600$.

Once home, I was able to crank it over, and it started! It sounded ok but a little rattly. I changed the oil and took it on a drive. About 11 miles in, oil pressure dropped to 0 and it slowly quit running - seized. My son towed me home with my Jeep. Figure it must have soft seized on PO as well. At this point I'm thinking main bearings or possibly camshafts. But I don't know yet.

Ok, so, Craigslist. Found a 1998 Navigator that had been hit in the side. 161k miles. The owners wanted 300$ for engine, tranny and Xfer case. Already pulled. I realized that mine is the PI engine, but theirs wasn't. So, less horsepower, and some potiential intake manifold swap over issues. I offered them 200$. They accepted. Husband was very happy but the wife was trying to hold out. Truth is, their place was kind of like a wrecking yard, and they were going to move, so I think he would have almost given me the engine at that point.

Ok, home with the engine. Took all accessories off, have lots of spare parts! And got ready for an install.

Currently I'm at the point where truck engine is bare, but since I can't rotate the engine over, I can't remove flex plate bolts. I'm going to pull the heads and then lift engine and remove oil pan. Then, loosen main and rod caps. IF the heads are actually the part that is seized then that will solve the problem with their removal. Actually, just undoing the timing chains will help. IF the heads are still good, I have the option of replacing the non PI heads with them. But probably won't do that.

Also am searching for a junk yard front door, from crew cab, navigator, or expedition. All have same door with small variations on the inside door panel.

That's it for now. Later this week will continue the removal of the engine, in small bits. The truck has seen hard use, and also needs tires, but is from Texas so is rust free. Drives well too, from the 11 miles I got to test it.

Weldangrind · 10-15-2016, 03:51 PM

So cool! Please load pics!

Is your F150 two or four wheel drive? Please educate me; what does PI mean? Which side was the Navigator hit on?

I'm betting that the F150 motor has a totally clogged oil pump strainer. The Po probably never changed the oil. I bet that once you remove the heads, spray a little PB on the pistons and remove the timing chain, it'll turn over.

katoranger · 10-15-2016, 04:26 PM

I can't remember the difference, but it is all in the heads. My V10 was non PI and the later ones were PI too. The generation of F150 is my favorite too. Would be a good time to change the plugs and the Coils. If it needs the heads helicoiled it would be much easier with the engine out of the truck. Also replace the exhaust studs.

Landsvw · 10-15-2016, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

So cool! Please load pics!

Is your F150 two or four wheel drive? Please educate me; what does PI mean? Which side was the Navigator hit on?

I'm betting that the F150 motor has a totally clogged oil pump strainer. The Po probably never changed the oil. I bet that once you remove the heads, spray a little PB on the pistons and remove the timing chain, it'll turn over.

Yes, PI is perfomance improved or something like that. Ported intakes for sure, and bigger than the earlier heads. The PI gaskets can be used, with PI intake and non PI heads, and then some judicious silicone on a water port or two. I don't know which side the navigator was hit. Didn't see the truck as all parts were already pulled. I pulled navigator pan, and was clean as a whistle. Will pull the f150 pan when I get it out and look. Something seized pretty hard, but no knocking. Metallic sheen to the oil... aluminum looking. Got the plugs and know the routine. I'll take the chance, and torque to 28 and cross my fingers lol. My other truck had 233k miles and never had a blow out. Yet. Lol!

Oh, and my 'new' f150 is a 4x4. So is the navigator tranny and Xfer case.

Working on getting some pictures on Photobucket ASAP and linking them over here.

Landsvw · 10-15-2016, 05:04 PM

Weldangrind · 10-16-2016, 11:36 AM

Nice looking truck! The wheels are a good score, if they're straight.

Maybe the Expedition was hit on the passenger side, in which case there may be a good door for you. Good news on the clean oil pan.

Landsvw · 10-16-2016, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Nice looking truck! The wheels are a good score, if they're straight.

Maybe the Expedition was hit on the passenger side, in which case there may be a good door for you. Good news on the clean oil pan.

yes, the rims are good but need tires. I am pretty sure they told me the expedition/navigator body was gone. They had seats and a big bunch of other parts sitting around, so pretty sure they stripped it and probably crushed it. I may call tho.

It looks as if the navigator had the more rugged transmission than my truck. I think mine is the 4R70, and the navigator had the 4R100. It's a pain to convert to the bigger tranny, so I'll probably sell or trade that one. Hope to get some work done today. Might even get some more pictures.

Landsvw · 10-16-2016, 06:36 PM

Got all the exhaust studs out of one side, with only 1 breaking. Got that one removed too. When I started to drill it, it spun loose. And easy outed it the rest of the way. Have the other side soaking in pblaster till tomorrow.

Weldangrind · 10-17-2016, 11:21 AM

You got lucky with that stud. Another way to increase your chances is to use a left-hand drill bot and drill in reverse. Very often, the drill bit will catch the fastener and spin it out.

You said it drove well for the few minutes that you were able to test it, so I presume the original trans and transfer case are ok. That means the 4R100 will make you some cash.

Landsvw · 10-17-2016, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

You got lucky with that stud. Another way to increase your chances is to use a left-hand drill bot and drill in reverse. Very often, the drill bit will catch the fastener and spin it out.

You said it drove well for the few minutes that you were able to test it, so I presume the original trans and transfer case are ok. That means the 4R100 will make you some cash.

Yeah I was wishing for a left hand drill and was going to go get one, but it worked without it. It actually caught and spun it down in further. So then I tappped a Torx driver bit into the hole and unscrewed it.

I've got the tranny listed on Clist. Hope to unload it and the aluminum non PI intake. Also, looking for door and some decent tires. Playing the game! 😊

Landsvw · 10-18-2016, 12:03 AM

Oh yeah, and ordered the stainless steel exhaust stud and nut kit from eBay.

Weldangrind · 10-18-2016, 12:57 PM

Is there any commentary that SS studs should be coated with a barrier before installation? It would suck if galvanic corrosion took place, although I really don't know if that would happen with SS.

Landsvw · 10-18-2016, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Is there any commentary that SS studs should be coated with a barrier before installation? It would suck if galvanic corrosion took place, although I really don't know if that would happen with SS.

All I know is the original studs are soft like butter. And stainless is recommended...

'16 TT250 · 10-19-2016, 01:08 AM

Stainless & aluminum is a bad mix, some alloys worse than others. Use anti-seize if you want them to be removable in the future. If the nuts are stainless you'll potentially have even bigger issues, again depending on the alloy; some stainless types will gall and stick badly.

Changing engine and/or transmission types can lead to electronic control issues so I'd suggest keeping it all the same unless you know what you're doing. I'm good with mechanical and afraid of electronics/programming, but to some that part is easy.

Landsvw · 10-19-2016, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '16 TT250

Stainless & aluminum is a bad mix, some alloys worse than others. Use anti-seize if you want them to be removable in the future. If the nuts are stainless you'll potentially have even bigger issues, again depending on the alloy; some stainless types will gall and stick badly.

Changing engine and/or transmission types can lead to electronic control issues so I'd suggest keeping it all the same unless you know what you're doing. I'm good with mechanical and afraid of electronics/programming, but to some that part is easy.

Everything I read in the f150 ford forums are saying change the studs to stainless. The original studs are essentially useless, and weak. And, I've found that to be true. One broke off immediately with very light pressure from my wrench.

As far as the tranny goes, you're right, it takes a whole bunch of messing around to get the larger tranny to function correctly. I won't mess with the original. Even if it goes out I'll sell or trade the 100 for the 70.

10-15-2016, 02:26 PM	#1
Landsvw Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon Posts: 865	2001 F150 5.4 swap over per request 😉 Weldangrind wanted me to start a thread on my latest project, so here it is so far... I've always liked the 1997-2002 style of ford f150's, but also have always wanted the super crew cab, as we've had the extended cab version for years, but not quite enough room for 5 or 6 people when traveling a distance. The supercrew cabs, tho, are very expensive. About a month ago, one showed up in Grants Pass Oregon craigslist for 1600$, had 235k miles, a big dent in drivers door, and potentially a bad engine. I offered him 1400$, he accepted. I got it towed home for 275$. Oh, and meanwhile, I'd sold my extended cab to a friend for 2600$. Once home, I was able to crank it over, and it started! It sounded ok but a little rattly. I changed the oil and took it on a drive. About 11 miles in, oil pressure dropped to 0 and it slowly quit running - seized. My son towed me home with my Jeep. Figure it must have soft seized on PO as well. At this point I'm thinking main bearings or possibly camshafts. But I don't know yet. Ok, so, Craigslist. Found a 1998 Navigator that had been hit in the side. 161k miles. The owners wanted 300$ for engine, tranny and Xfer case. Already pulled. I realized that mine is the PI engine, but theirs wasn't. So, less horsepower, and some potiential intake manifold swap over issues. I offered them 200$. They accepted. Husband was very happy but the wife was trying to hold out. Truth is, their place was kind of like a wrecking yard, and they were going to move, so I think he would have almost given me the engine at that point. Ok, home with the engine. Took all accessories off, have lots of spare parts! And got ready for an install. Currently I'm at the point where truck engine is bare, but since I can't rotate the engine over, I can't remove flex plate bolts. I'm going to pull the heads and then lift engine and remove oil pan. Then, loosen main and rod caps. IF the heads are actually the part that is seized then that will solve the problem with their removal. Actually, just undoing the timing chains will help. IF the heads are still good, I have the option of replacing the non PI heads with them. But probably won't do that. Also am searching for a junk yard front door, from crew cab, navigator, or expedition. All have same door with small variations on the inside door panel. That's it for now. Later this week will continue the removal of the engine, in small bits. The truck has seen hard use, and also needs tires, but is from Texas so is rust free. Drives well too, from the 11 miles I got to test it. __________________ 1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 2002 Porsche Boxster S 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN Last edited by Landsvw; 10-15-2016 at 02:58 PM.
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10-15-2016, 03:51 PM	#2
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	So cool! Please load pics! Is your F150 two or four wheel drive? Please educate me; what does PI mean? Which side was the Navigator hit on? I'm betting that the F150 motor has a totally clogged oil pump strainer. The Po probably never changed the oil. I bet that once you remove the heads, spray a little PB on the pistons and remove the timing chain, it'll turn over. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	1

10-15-2016, 04:26 PM	#3
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I can't remember the difference, but it is all in the heads. My V10 was non PI and the later ones were PI too. The generation of F150 is my favorite too. Would be a good time to change the plugs and the Coils. If it needs the heads helicoiled it would be much easier with the engine out of the truck. Also replace the exhaust studs. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

10-15-2016, 05:04 PM	#5
Landsvw Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon Posts: 865	__________________ 1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 2002 Porsche Boxster S 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN
	2

10-16-2016, 11:36 AM	#6
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Nice looking truck! The wheels are a good score, if they're straight. Maybe the Expedition was hit on the passenger side, in which case there may be a good door for you. Good news on the clean oil pan. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

10-16-2016, 06:36 PM	#8
Landsvw Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon Posts: 865	Got all the exhaust studs out of one side, with only 1 breaking. Got that one removed too. When I started to drill it, it spun loose. And easy outed it the rest of the way. Have the other side soaking in pblaster till tomorrow. __________________ 1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 2002 Porsche Boxster S 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN
	2

10-17-2016, 11:21 AM	#9
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	You got lucky with that stud. Another way to increase your chances is to use a left-hand drill bot and drill in reverse. Very often, the drill bit will catch the fastener and spin it out. You said it drove well for the few minutes that you were able to test it, so I presume the original trans and transfer case are ok. That means the 4R100 will make you some cash. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

10-18-2016, 12:03 AM	#11
Landsvw Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Myrtle Creek Oregon Posts: 865	Oh yeah, and ordered the stainless steel exhaust stud and nut kit from eBay. __________________ 1988 Kawasaki KLR250 1969 Honda Z50 silver tag 2002 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel 2002 Porsche Boxster S 2017 Chevy Bolt “Throttle twisting geek” -LFN
	0

10-18-2016, 12:57 PM	#12
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Is there any commentary that SS studs should be coated with a barrier before installation? It would suck if galvanic corrosion took place, although I really don't know if that would happen with SS. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

10-19-2016, 01:08 AM	#14
'16 TT250 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca Posts: 281	Stainless & aluminum is a bad mix, some alloys worse than others. Use anti-seize if you want them to be removable in the future. If the nuts are stainless you'll potentially have even bigger issues, again depending on the alloy; some stainless types will gall and stick badly. Changing engine and/or transmission types can lead to electronic control issues so I'd suggest keeping it all the same unless you know what you're doing. I'm good with mechanical and afraid of electronics/programming, but to some that part is easy.
	0