Any hobby R/C GEEKS in here?

[OneLeggedRider]

Well after getting a 3 channel radio and receiver, and a better ESC, and doing some extensive cutting on the bed and moving a frame cross member, I got it all together and was off to the races. After about 10 minutes of crawling I noticed my front end was getting sloppy. Passenger side front tire was flopping around and so was the front driveshaft. When I got the metal version about 60% of the bolts were loose, but the exterior axle bolts were all tight so I didn't take them apart, which apparently I should have.

I also discovered it's back to the drawing board for the steering. Sitting static it turns equal amounts in each direction, but this thing puts out so much torque the body twists one direction in drive and the other direction in reverse so I'm considering mounting the servo on the axle. I hate to do that though because it would take away from the full scale realism, which is what makes the truck appealing.

Pic isn't my truck but it's the metal version I have, and Indy with a bottle of Jack is kewl.

[duck9191]

well, steering flex is scale lol. Traxxas and axial have both went to axel mount servos for that reason on some models. I'm not a fan of the look either.

[bogieboy]

just gonna throw this out there, i am downsizing my collection, anyone want to buy a Nitro Evader or a 1st Gen hpi Nitro RS4? both have running (least they ran last year LOL) O.S. 15 cv pull start engines,

the evader battery box has broken off the tail end, i was zip tying the pack to the rear shock tower... also, no body on the evader

the rs4 has a 2 speed, but the ear on the gear for second is broken off... i can link to the gears needed if you want... or i could order and replace before sale... i may do that anyways... also comes with a pretty beat Subaru WRX body and rally-esque tires.

[duck9191]

I still have a few electric evaders. most with destroyed diffs lol.

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by bogieboy

just gonna throw this out there, i am downsizing my collection, anyone want to buy a Nitro Evader or a 1st Gen hpi Nitro RS4? both have running (least they ran last year LOL) O.S. 15 cv pull start engines,

the evader battery box has broken off the tail end, i was zip tying the pack to the rear shock tower... also, no body on the evader

the rs4 has a 2 speed, but the ear on the gear for second is broken off... i can link to the gears needed if you want... or i could order and replace before sale... i may do that anyways... also comes with a pretty beat Subaru WRX body and rally-esque tires.

I'm not a nitro guy, matter of fact my 36cc Baja 5b is getting the brushless conversion soon. It's just too much hassle and twice now the mayor has sent a town trustee down to run us off the ballfield because of the earsplitting racket it makes (it's much louder than any nitro I've been around). But if the price is right I'm sure someone would be interested.

[bogieboy]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

I'm not a nitro guy, matter of fact my 36cc Baja 5b is getting the brushless conversion soon. It's just too much hassle and twice now the mayor has sent a town trustee down to run us off the ballfield because of the earsplitting racket it makes (it's much louder than any nitro I've been around). But if the price is right I'm sure someone would be interested.

they are both WAAAAAYYYYYYYYY quieter than the RCMK 254 evo in my boat that i am still putting together....LOL but thats on a tuned pipe with an external stinger and a stinger mounted "muffler"

[duck9191]

My baja is just a tuned pipe, that's it lol. sounds good, but loud. Need to get an engine for that thing and put it back together.

[Landsvw]

Have you tried this yet???

[OneLeggedRider]

Finally tore into the front axle, half the screws were loctite-ed, and the other half were loose. The cause of the slop was a loose set screw on the ring gear, and a loose set screw on the passenger side CV joint. I lubed all 9 wheel bearings including the pinion bearing with white lithium grease (my plan was to use marine grease but it didn't seem to be getting inside the tiny bearings) and put it back together with blue loctite.

With a torch I bent the steering tie rod even further but it still wasn't quite enough (guess I'll have to she'll out the dough for the aftermarket one). I also moved it to the closest hole on the servo horn and shortened the horn for more clearance between it and the third member.

After that I installed the big Mn 90 super soft crawler tires. They scrub a little when the wheel is turned to the right and your at full flex, but not enough to matter. They made a big difference in crawling though. I lost a little bit of torque (3s brushless is next) because of the larger diameter, but it'll go over anything now.

[JerryHawk250]

Looking good Frank.

[OneLeggedRider]

Well the big tires are just too much for the 370 (the biggest of the 3 stock motors) even with the ultra low aftermarket transfer case and gear reduction box. Some of that can be attributed to the all metal conversion (this thing weighs more than some 10th scale RCs) and I haven't even added lead shot to the tires yet. So desperate times call for desperate measures..

More than 10yrs ago I got acquainted with brushless motor systems and they were EXPENSIVE! I bought a Castle Mamba Max for my Traxxas Stampede and it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $350 if I remember correctly. Well the Chinese are selling them now at ridiculously low prices. I came across a 7800kv 540 with a 120amp ESC for under $50! So I purchased a RacerStar 2430 sensorless waterproof 4 pole 5800kv motor (60,000rpm!) with a 25amp ESC for $28 that can run 2s or 3s lipo packs (they claim).

Now I know for a single speed crawler you should run a sensored 2700 to 3300kv motor for lots of torque and no clogging on take off, but.. If you've got a 2 speed transmission ready to be installed (which I do) you can get away with a higher kv motor. Now the clogging is unavoidable with a sensorless motor and the Chinese haven't gotten in the sensored market yet, but it's negative effects can be reduced with a tiny (8 tooth) pinion gear. So here soon I'll be doing donuts and wheelies in high range and crawling like a beast in low range.

I also had to order some T-plug connectors for my lipo packs.

[duck9191]

There are some sensored motors that are reasonably priced. What can size do you need?

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by duck9191

There are some sensored motors that are reasonably priced. What can size do you need?

Motor and ESC? Has to be a 2430 or 2435. The guys with plastic frames run a 2445 but that's because they can trim to make room for the longer can.

24mm is the diameter and 30mm is the length.

[bogieboy]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

Well the big tires are just too much for the 370 (the biggest of the 3 stock motors) even with the ultra low aftermarket transfer case and gear reduction box. Some of that can be attributed to the all metal conversion (this thing weighs more than some 10th scale RCs) and I haven't even added lead shot to the tires yet. So desperate times call for desperate measures..

More than 10yrs ago I got acquainted with brushless motor systems and they were EXPENSIVE! I bought a Castle Mamba Max for my Traxxas Stampede and it was somewhere in the neighborhood of $350 if I remember correctly. Well the Chinese are selling them now at ridiculously low prices. I came across a 7800kv 540 with a 120amp ESC for under $50! So I purchased RacerStar 2430 sensorless waterproof 4 pole 5700kv motor (60,000rpm!) with a 25amp ESC for $28 that can run 2s or 3s lipo packs (they claim).

Now I know for a single speed crawler you should run a sensored 2700 to 3300kv motor for lots of torque and no clogging on take off, but.. If you've got a 2 speed transmission ready to be installed (which I do) you can get away with a higher kv motor. Now the clogging is unavoidable with a sensorless motor and the Chinese haven't gotten in the sensored market yet, but it's negative effects can be reduced with a tiny (8 tooth) pinion gear. So here soon I'll be doing donuts and wheelies in high range and crawling like a beast in low range.

I also had to order some T-plug connectors for my lipo packs.

i would be careful with that 5700kv 4 pole and a 25a esc... i fried a 35a on a 4200kv 4 pole 540 sized motor on 2s in a touring car...


that said, i have had no issues running my 9200kv 370 sized dynamite C4 on 3s in my mini-T.....LOL nothing like power wheelies at 40+mph...

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by bogieboy

i would be careful with that 5700kv 4 pole and a 25a esc... i fried a 35a on a 4200kv 4 pole 540 sized motor on 2s in a touring car...


that said, i have had no issues running my 9200kv 370 sized dynamite C4 on 3s in my mini-T.....LOL nothing like power wheelies at 40+mph...

Yeah it definitely seems a little sketchy, and that's why I said "they claim". There's 2 different motor options with that system and different specs for each. For the 5800kv they list 2s and 3s, for the 7200kv it's only 2s.

The only solace I can take is several group members have used this system with 2s packs without issue, and from the vids a 3s pack is completely unnecessary lol.