New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[katflap]

I have noticed over time that my oil level has been rising. At first I thought I was just imagining it. But I think now it could be the case.

So I have set up some marks on the ground and selected a block of wood for under the side stand.

This combined with a small mark I have made on the oil level inspection window so I can accurately monitor the oil level each time I check.

This I did last week. Today I checked the oil level and It does seem to be starting to rise.

Also when I initially set this up I removed an amount of oil to gain the correct level. This oil reeked of fuel, I don't mean a small whiff of petrol, it totally stunk of the stuff.

Probably best if I order a new injector before I start ripping things apart

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

I have noticed over time that my oil level has been rising. At first I thought I was just imagining it. But I think now it could be the case.

So I have set up some marks on the ground and selected a block of wood for under the side stand.

This combined with a small mark I have made on the oil level inspection window so I can accurately monitor the oil level each time I check.

This I did last week. Today I checked the oil level and It does seem to be starting to rise.

Also when I initially set this up I removed an amount of oil to gain the correct level. This oil reeked of fuel, I don't mean a small whiff of petrol, it totally stunk of the stuff.

Probably best if I order a new injector before I start ripping things apart

At least you've been able to establish that it's fuel, not coolant. A new injector is a relatively easy fix, compared to a head gasket.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

At least you've been able to establish that it's fuel, not coolant. A new injector is a relatively easy fix, compared to a head gasket.

Yeah, doing the head gasket would of been a drag.

Fortunately I don't think the injector is going to be too expensive. Just hope it will cure the problem.
I guess in the meantime I will have to replace the oil regularly so it doesn't get too diluted with fuel

[katflap]

Originally Posted by katflap

I have noticed over time that my oil level has been rising. At first I thought I was just imagining it. But I think now it could be the case.

So I have set up some marks on the ground and selected a block of wood for under the side stand.

This combined with a small mark I have made on the oil level inspection window so I can accurately monitor the oil level each time I check.

This I did last week. Today I checked the oil level and It does seem to be starting to rise.

Also when I initially set this up I removed an amount of oil to gain the correct level. This oil reeked of fuel, I don't mean a small whiff of petrol, it totally stunk of the stuff.

Probably best if I order a new injector before I start ripping things apart

Ok so temptation got the better of me - out it came

Switched on, pump up to pressure - no leakage

cranked on starter - injector sprayed

stopped cranking engine - no leakage

so that's me stumped for now

Anyhoo , here's a few injector pics

[Veteran]

Originally Posted by katflap

Ok so temptation got the better of me - out it came

Switched on, pump up to pressure - no leakage

cranked on starter - injector sprayed

stopped cranking engine - no leakage

so that's me stumped for now

Anyhoo , here's a few injector pics

It may be a long shot, but there aren't many other ways I can imagine the engine filling with gasoline; either the injector is intermittently sticking/leaking after shut down, or sticking and seeping after shutdown once it's warmed up, (same thing really). I've had carbs with sticking floats overfill and fill the crankcase but I've never seen an injected model do it. The injector is the only gas link to the engine so.....I'd change that first as you planned. Having gas in the oil isn't just bad for the bearings, it doesn't help the clutch either.

[oldqwerty]

Every USB outlet, convertor, or charger I've had the misfortune of dealing with draws power when connected to the battery, doesn't matter if anything is plugged into the port or not. Be sure to wire the USB to through a switch unless you can verify this one is somehow different. The 12 volt power outlet will not draw power unless something is plugged in, unless someone who doesn't like you drops a coin in it.

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I have no personal experience with dyno sheets, but I've reviewed several over the years. I am struggling to understand the inverse curve at the bottom of the graph, and I'm failing to get which curve represents torque.

Torque is measured in newton meters.

Originally Posted by G19Tony

Thanks for all the research you do Spud. I will try the ATF you recommend. Your information makes these bikes easier to work on. I wonder if MIL SPEC HYD 83282 would work. If it's good enough for fighter jets, it should work for us! It makes sense to use hyd fluid in a hyd component.

My lubricant guru has a PhD in chemical engineering and spent 40 years analyzing and doing research and development on lubricants in the Exxon Mobil lab. Here's a summary of what I learned from him:

DO NOT assume anything used in aviation is adequate for motorcycles. I've seen several people dump oil for aviation piston engines in their motorcycles and wipe out the cams and followers in under 100 miles. 110LL still has enough lead to gag a catalytic convertor right quick. Same goes for diesel truck oils in motorcycles. Some will be fine, some won't. Even about half the Rotellas that have served riders for years no longer adequately protect cams in motorcycles. Same goes for Mobil commercial oils. Do you know how to tell the difference? If not, It makes sense to use products intended for the technologies your motorcycle encompasses. There is way too much specialization in lubricants today, with formulations changing constantly to keep up with emission and economy regulations, to just dump in whatever lubricant is handy. Even products that picture motorcycles on the labels may not be compatible with every motorcycle. An air cooled, slow turning 1300cc V-twin with dual sumps has very different requirements of its engine oil than a water cooled, 10,000rpm 250cc single with a single sump.

I expect the shop manual lists lubricant specifications and those should be adhered to--at least check and make sure what you are thinking of using meets the requirements. Maybe it will, maybe it won't. Never know until you check.

[G19Tony]

Originally Posted by oldqwerty

Every USB outlet, convertor, or charger I've had the misfortune of dealing with draws power when connected to the battery, doesn't matter if anything is plugged into the port or not. Be sure to wire the USB to through a switch unless you can verify this one is somehow different. The 12 volt power outlet will not draw power unless something is plugged in, unless someone who doesn't like you drops a coin in it.



Torque is measured in newton meters.



My lubricant guru has a PhD in chemical engineering and spent 40 years analyzing and doing research and development on lubricants in the Exxon Mobil lab. Here's a summary of what I learned from him:

DO NOT assume anything used in aviation is adequate for motorcycles. I've seen several people dump oil for aviation piston engines in their motorcycles and wipe out the cams and followers in under 100 miles. 110LL still has enough lead to gag a catalytic convertor right quick. Same goes for diesel truck oils in motorcycles. Some will be fine, some won't. Even about half the Rotellas that have served riders for years no longer adequately protect cams in motorcycles. Same goes for Mobil commercial oils. Do you know how to tell the difference? If not, It makes sense to use products intended for the technologies your motorcycle encompasses. There is way too much specialization in lubricants today, with formulations changing constantly to keep up with emission and economy regulations, to just dump in whatever lubricant is handy. Even products that picture motorcycles on the labels may not be compatible with every motorcycle. An air cooled, slow turning 1300cc V-twin with dual sumps has very different requirements of its engine oil than a water cooled, 10,000rpm 250cc single with a single sump.

I expect the shop manual lists lubricant specifications and those should be adhered to--at least check and make sure what you are thinking of using meets the requirements. Maybe it will, maybe it won't. Never know until you check.

I know. I just thought I was being funny.

I follow the tech data for what ever I'm messing with.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Veteran

It may be a long shot, but there aren't many other ways I can imagine the engine filling with gasoline; either the injector is intermittently sticking/leaking after shut down, or sticking and seeping after shutdown once it's warmed up, (same thing really). I've had carbs with sticking floats overfill and fill the crankcase but I've never seen an injected model do it. The injector is the only gas link to the engine so.....I'd change that first as you planned. Having gas in the oil isn't just bad for the bearings, it doesn't help the clutch either.

Yeah, I will definitely change the injector out when I've got a new one.
Like you say, it could be an intermittent fault.

I Will be keeping a close eye on the oil level and change it out often.
As you have pointed out, I don't want to shag the bearings or the clutch.
I guess it could also begin to degrade the seals too.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

I Will be keeping a close eye on the oil level and change it out often.
As you have pointed out, I don't want to shag the bearings or the clutch.
I guess it could also begin to degrade the seals too.

I can see where fuel would harm traditional babbit--style automotive bearings, but I don't think rollers would be harmed. Some people wash that style of bearing in petrol anyway. I wouldn't, but some do.

I agree that the fuel can't be good for the clutch.

A certain amount of fuel always ends up in the bottom end during normal combustion, but not a level that you would ever notice. Perhaps you should check your venting system, just to be sure that it is free of any obstructions. I'm not saying the venting system is the cause, but I'd feel better knowing it is capable of dealing with the pressure.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

A certain amount of fuel always ends up in the bottom end during normal combustion, but not a level that you would ever notice. Perhaps you should check your venting system, just to be sure that it is free of any obstructions. I'm not saying the venting system is the cause, but I'd feel better knowing it is capable of dealing with the pressure.

Assuming the only vent is where the oil/water separator connects to then this appears to be fine.
Though it might be worth me disconnecting the tube for a while and monitor for any difference.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katflap

Ok so temptation got the better of me - out it came

Switched on, pump up to pressure - no leakage

cranked on starter - injector sprayed

stopped cranking engine - no leakage

so that's me stumped for now

I agree with Veteran that perhaps there is an intermittent leak at the injector when the bike is off. Is there an opportunity to pull the injector after a ride and leave it out? Perhaps you could suspend it over a container, to see if any fuel escapes overnight.

I would certainly change the injector, but I always prefer to have solid evidence to back up my theories. That said, I also agree with Veteran that the injector is the only fuel link.

[katflap]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I agree with Veteran that perhaps there is an intermittent leak at the injector when the bike is off. Is there an opportunity to pull the injector after a ride and leave it out? Perhaps you could suspend it over a container, to see if any fuel escapes overnight.

That's a good idea, I will try that when I get the opportunity