Fork Oil change

amc31b · 10-29-2006, 01:30 PM

I picked up a clymer repair manual on the 1975-1987 Honda xr/xl 200-400 series and I noticed the Maintence schedual listed the fork oil change every 3000 miles or as needed. The procedure looks pretty straight forward. Open the drain screw on the bottom of the fork leg and let it drain. Now open the top of the fork tube and move the suspension up and down to get the rest of the fluid out. Now Close the drain screw and add 22 oz per leg of either ATF or 30w oil. Pump the suspension again to release any air in the bottom of the fork tube. Close off the top of the fork tube and you're done. Has anyone done this yet? I know our bikes are slightly different than the manual I have. Changing the fork tube oil seems to be one thing we havent brought up in this forum. Please tell me what you think.

ImEazy · 10-29-2006, 03:32 PM

I posted a thread a while back about this. I'm wanting to stiffen the front up a bit as it is quite mushy the way it is. I plan on using 20 weight oil when I do change it. Any chance you could post a copy of the intructions from the manual you have? If not no biggie.

amc31b · 10-29-2006, 04:20 PM

I'm sure I could but I dont know how well it will come out. I could also copy it verbaitem Which I will do next. I like the way my front suspension is, maybe just a little on the soft side. more to come with my next post.

ImEazy · 10-29-2006, 07:09 PM

That's cool. I'll take any info I can get I have never done
a set of forks before. Always just rode them as is.

gyjoe · 10-29-2006, 07:17 PM

I was under the impression that the procedure is different and possibly more complicated with inverted forks as opposed to the conventional style. Haven't done it before with either one--anyone know if that is true?

amc31b · 10-30-2006, 10:53 AM

Ok here it is, you asked for it so you'll get it. This is the procedure to change the fork oil on non-inverted forks for the 1985 honda xr200r. Clymer# M328-4, This is verbatim step by step.

1. remove the upper plastic protective cap (which we dont have so ignore this part)
2.Use a 17mm socket to remove the upper fork cap bolt.
3.Place a drain pan under fork and remove the drain screw. Allow to drain for at least 5 minutes. Never reuse the oil.
4.With the bikes wheels on the ground and front brake applied, push down on the handle bars to work the forks up and down. Continue untill all oil is expelled.
5.Re-install the drain screw.
6.Fill the fork tube with DEXRON automatic transmition fluid or 10w fork oil. Refer to table 7 for capacities. (22oz per fork)
7.After filling the fork tube, slowly pump the forks several times to expel air from the upper and lower fork chambers.
8.Install the fork cap bolt while pushing down on the spring. Start the bolt slowly: do not cross thread it! Tighten to torque specifications listed in table 6. (11-22 Ft-lbs)
9.Repeat steps 1-8 for the other fork.
10.Road test the bike and check for leaks.

There you have it, seems pretty strait forward to me. I'm not exactly sure if the 22 oz per leg is correct though. I would have to measure the amount of old oil that comes out then try to refill it with the same amount. I'm thinking the ATF is the thinner oil if you want a more soft suspension. It would be much easier to get a hold of. 10w fork oil you'll have to order or pick-up at a bike shop.

ImEazy · 10-30-2006, 11:01 AM

Thanks a lot for the info. That seems pretty plain and simple. I'll let ya know how it goes when I get around to actually changing them.

ImEazy · 11-17-2006, 02:15 PM

I got out in the garage yesterday. I decided to change the oil in the forks finally. I have the standard type. I had no idea as the amount of fluid in them so I used a measuring cup to determine the amount so I could refill them the same. After letting the first leg drain completely I kinda thought that the amount just doesn't seem like enough. Does anyone know exactly how much fluid the standard forks take per leg? I proceeded to change both sides and refilled with the same amount that was in them. I'm thinking this will need to be done again as it still doesn't seem like there was enough fluid in them. When removing the cap take it slow as there is a spacer between it and the spring. Some pics...

The bike...

Fluid = 2/3 cup or 5 1/3 ounces...

Spacer...

amc31b · 11-17-2006, 05:20 PM

Good to know, You must have had a leak or something. What did you replace the fluid with? I'm thinking about doing this next spring when my bike comes out of storage.

ImEazy · 11-17-2006, 06:00 PM

Nope don't believe there is a leak as both tubes had the same exact amount of fluid in them. I'm thinking they under filled them from the factory. Less than a half a quart for both just doesn't seem right.

I went with the Dexron auto transmission fluid. $1.77 a quart at Walmart.

amc31b · 11-17-2006, 08:12 PM

Have you tried working the suspension or riding the bike with the atf? how does the atf make it feel. I would try using the 22oz per leg recommeded by clymer for the 1985 xr200r.

ImEazy · 11-17-2006, 09:34 PM

I haven't rode the bike yet after the change. Just working the forks with the front brake applied seems to be alot smoother than it was before. As you can see from the pic the fluid that came out was quite nasty looking. I don't want to second guess and try the 22oz's as the manual states due to the fact that if the forks are overfilled I stand a chance of blowing the seals out. It may be more of a headache finding and replacing them than it's worth. My opinion of course.

ImEazy · 11-22-2006, 11:59 PM

Well I talked to Tom (RPM) about the amount of fluid required for the forks on the Hi-Bird bikes he carries. He said they used 7.5 oz. (221 ml) per side. These look to be the same forks as on mine so I plan on adding a couple of ounces to each side and see how that works. Hope this helps.
I will post an update once I take it for a ride. Gonna shoot for tomarrow
as the weather is suppose to be nice.

Pics of the Hi-Bird bike in RPM's gallery...

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=1503

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=1508

fashby · 12-03-2006, 01:44 AM

For inverted forks you have to remove them from the bike, disassembe them, tip them upside down and pump the damper to remove the oil.
Everything is locktighted together, so you need to use some elbow grease.

I took out 8 oz, but put about 12 oz. of oil back in. This covered the dampers and allowed me to get them filled back up by pumping them. This is very important before you reassembe the forks and It apparently wasn't done at the factory. After refilling them, the forks have much better damping and don't bounce around like they used to.

NOTE:
The allen bolt at the bottom of the fork should NOT be removed unless you want to remove the damper. It is threaded into the bottom of the damper which can start spinning when you try to remove or install the bolt. If this happens, it requires dissasembling the damper to tighten it. NOT FUN!

I have some pictures in my gallery of the forks:

http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...avId=x24114d28

Ferrit · 12-03-2006, 08:53 AM

Just some general thoughts on forks after 45 years of riding--

Fork oil should only need to be changed every couple of years or 5-10,000 miles but everyone is familiar with the quality (or lack of) of the factory oils. I change out factory oil at about the second engine oil change.

After draining out the old oil, Kerosene or other petro based low vol solvent can be used to flush the forks. screw the drain plub back in, add a few ounces of kerosene, cycle the forks thru their travel, and then drain again.

I let the forks drain overnight just to get the most out of them. 5 minutes is just not long enough.

Differnent weights of oil in the forks will effect the damping rate. If you want a bit more damping go to 15wt fork oil, a bit less use ATF. If you are a big guy use 10-30 synth oil.

That spacer in the old style forks adjusts the preload on the springs. Again if you are a big guy make a spacer a half inch longer. This will effectively increase the spring rate. This also works for the more agressive riders.

Last but certainly not least-get some protection on the forks to protect the slider rod of the forks (that part that slides up inside the other piece). A dried bug or a tiny piece of quartz based stone on the slider can cause the fork seals to start leaking. Gators for the old style forks or hard protectors for the USD forks are a great investment.

10-29-2006, 01:30 PM	#1
amc31b Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft Bragg, NC Posts: 37	Fork Oil change I picked up a clymer repair manual on the 1975-1987 Honda xr/xl 200-400 series and I noticed the Maintence schedual listed the fork oil change every 3000 miles or as needed. The procedure looks pretty straight forward. Open the drain screw on the bottom of the fork leg and let it drain. Now open the top of the fork tube and move the suspension up and down to get the rest of the fluid out. Now Close the drain screw and add 22 oz per leg of either ATF or 30w oil. Pump the suspension again to release any air in the bottom of the fork tube. Close off the top of the fork tube and you're done. Has anyone done this yet? I know our bikes are slightly different than the manual I have. Changing the fork tube oil seems to be one thing we havent brought up in this forum. Please tell me what you think. __________________ <div>Roketa RKM-E5</div>
	0

10-29-2006, 03:32 PM	#2
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	I posted a thread a while back about this. I'm wanting to stiffen the front up a bit as it is quite mushy the way it is. I plan on using 20 weight oil when I do change it. Any chance you could post a copy of the intructions from the manual you have? If not no biggie. __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

10-29-2006, 04:20 PM	#3
amc31b Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft Bragg, NC Posts: 37	I'm sure I could but I dont know how well it will come out. I could also copy it verbaitem Which I will do next. I like the way my front suspension is, maybe just a little on the soft side. more to come with my next post. __________________ <div>Roketa RKM-E5</div>
	0

10-29-2006, 07:09 PM	#4
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	That's cool. I'll take any info I can get I have never done a set of forks before. Always just rode them as is. __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

10-29-2006, 07:17 PM	#5
gyjoe Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Duluth, MN Posts: 230	I was under the impression that the procedure is different and possibly more complicated with inverted forks as opposed to the conventional style. Haven't done it before with either one--anyone know if that is true? __________________ 2006 Lifan LF200GY-5
	0

10-30-2006, 10:53 AM	#6
amc31b Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft Bragg, NC Posts: 37	Ok here it is, you asked for it so you'll get it. This is the procedure to change the fork oil on non-inverted forks for the 1985 honda xr200r. Clymer# M328-4, This is verbatim step by step. 1. remove the upper plastic protective cap (which we dont have so ignore this part) 2.Use a 17mm socket to remove the upper fork cap bolt. 3.Place a drain pan under fork and remove the drain screw. Allow to drain for at least 5 minutes. Never reuse the oil. 4.With the bikes wheels on the ground and front brake applied, push down on the handle bars to work the forks up and down. Continue untill all oil is expelled. 5.Re-install the drain screw. 6.Fill the fork tube with DEXRON automatic transmition fluid or 10w fork oil. Refer to table 7 for capacities. (22oz per fork) 7.After filling the fork tube, slowly pump the forks several times to expel air from the upper and lower fork chambers. 8.Install the fork cap bolt while pushing down on the spring. Start the bolt slowly: do not cross thread it! Tighten to torque specifications listed in table 6. (11-22 Ft-lbs) 9.Repeat steps 1-8 for the other fork. 10.Road test the bike and check for leaks. There you have it, seems pretty strait forward to me. I'm not exactly sure if the 22 oz per leg is correct though. I would have to measure the amount of old oil that comes out then try to refill it with the same amount. I'm thinking the ATF is the thinner oil if you want a more soft suspension. It would be much easier to get a hold of. 10w fork oil you'll have to order or pick-up at a bike shop. __________________ <div>Roketa RKM-E5</div>
	0

10-30-2006, 11:01 AM	#7
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	Thanks a lot for the info. That seems pretty plain and simple. I'll let ya know how it goes when I get around to actually changing them. __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

11-17-2006, 02:15 PM	#8
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	I got out in the garage yesterday. I decided to change the oil in the forks finally. I have the standard type. I had no idea as the amount of fluid in them so I used a measuring cup to determine the amount so I could refill them the same. After letting the first leg drain completely I kinda thought that the amount just doesn't seem like enough. Does anyone know exactly how much fluid the standard forks take per leg? I proceeded to change both sides and refilled with the same amount that was in them. I'm thinking this will need to be done again as it still doesn't seem like there was enough fluid in them. When removing the cap take it slow as there is a spacer between it and the spring. Some pics... The bike... Fluid = 2/3 cup or 5 1/3 ounces... Spacer... __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

11-17-2006, 05:20 PM	#9
amc31b Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft Bragg, NC Posts: 37	Good to know, You must have had a leak or something. What did you replace the fluid with? I'm thinking about doing this next spring when my bike comes out of storage.
	0

11-17-2006, 06:00 PM	#10
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	Nope don't believe there is a leak as both tubes had the same exact amount of fluid in them. I'm thinking they under filled them from the factory. Less than a half a quart for both just doesn't seem right. I went with the Dexron auto transmission fluid. $1.77 a quart at Walmart. __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

11-17-2006, 08:12 PM	#11
amc31b Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ft Bragg, NC Posts: 37	Have you tried working the suspension or riding the bike with the atf? how does the atf make it feel. I would try using the 22oz per leg recommeded by clymer for the 1985 xr200r.
	0

11-17-2006, 09:34 PM	#12
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	I haven't rode the bike yet after the change. Just working the forks with the front brake applied seems to be alot smoother than it was before. As you can see from the pic the fluid that came out was quite nasty looking. I don't want to second guess and try the 22oz's as the manual states due to the fact that if the forks are overfilled I stand a chance of blowing the seals out. It may be more of a headache finding and replacing them than it's worth. My opinion of course. __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

11-22-2006, 11:59 PM	#13
ImEazy Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron) Posts: 599	Well I talked to Tom (RPM) about the amount of fluid required for the forks on the Hi-Bird bikes he carries. He said they used 7.5 oz. (221 ml) per side. These look to be the same forks as on mine so I plan on adding a couple of ounces to each side and see how that works. Hope this helps. I will post an update once I take it for a ride. Gonna shoot for tomarrow as the weather is suppose to be nice. Pics of the Hi-Bird bike in RPM's gallery... http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=1503 http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=1508 __________________ 2000 MZ Baghira
	0

12-03-2006, 01:44 AM	#14
fashby Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Orlando Posts: 22	For Inverted Forks... For inverted forks you have to remove them from the bike, disassembe them, tip them upside down and pump the damper to remove the oil. Everything is locktighted together, so you need to use some elbow grease. I took out 8 oz, but put about 12 oz. of oil back in. This covered the dampers and allowed me to get them filled back up by pumping them. This is very important before you reassembe the forks and It apparently wasn't done at the factory. After refilling them, the forks have much better damping and don't bounce around like they used to. NOTE: The allen bolt at the bottom of the fork should NOT be removed unless you want to remove the damper. It is threaded into the bottom of the damper which can start spinning when you try to remove or install the bolt. If this happens, it requires dissasembling the damper to tighten it. NOT FUN! I have some pictures in my gallery of the forks: http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...avId=x24114d28 __________________ Viva GY200 California Emissions Jialing/Chonging - Jesus Rules!
	0

12-03-2006, 08:53 AM	#15
Ferrit Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lawrenceburg, KY Posts: 178	Just some general thoughts on forks after 45 years of riding-- Fork oil should only need to be changed every couple of years or 5-10,000 miles but everyone is familiar with the quality (or lack of) of the factory oils. I change out factory oil at about the second engine oil change. After draining out the old oil, Kerosene or other petro based low vol solvent can be used to flush the forks. screw the drain plub back in, add a few ounces of kerosene, cycle the forks thru their travel, and then drain again. I let the forks drain overnight just to get the most out of them. 5 minutes is just not long enough. Differnent weights of oil in the forks will effect the damping rate. If you want a bit more damping go to 15wt fork oil, a bit less use ATF. If you are a big guy use 10-30 synth oil. That spacer in the old style forks adjusts the preload on the springs. Again if you are a big guy make a spacer a half inch longer. This will effectively increase the spring rate. This also works for the more agressive riders. Last but certainly not least-get some protection on the forks to protect the slider rod of the forks (that part that slides up inside the other piece). A dried bug or a tiny piece of quartz based stone on the slider can cause the fork seals to start leaking. Gators for the old style forks or hard protectors for the USD forks are a great investment.
	0