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Old 05-06-2016, 11:50 AM   #16
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeerAtlas View Post
Engine builder Smoky Yunick (RIP) set me straight.
God bless him. Power Secrets is one of my favourite books. It might be time to read about his long connecting rod theories again.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:22 PM   #17
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Weld, I am in total agreement! Smokes was a lot of good things racing wise, but a small block chevy building genius attention to detail was incredible. First time we saw one of his stroker motors TRASH a BIG blocked chevelle, needed a shovel to collect all the tongues laying round on the ground, and his motors would LAST!
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:17 PM   #18
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This topic could support another thread for me. I love how he had figured out that a 6" rod and a 1.72:1 rod/stroke ratio could rev to the moon and not come apart. The early SBC 302 was closer to 1.90:1, but I seem to remember that was pushing things too far.


Sorry for the threadjack.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:03 AM   #19
kohburn   kohburn is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
General rule for break in:
Change the garbage oil immediately.
Nothing over 5000 rpm's for the first 500 miles, varying the throttle, no high sustained speeds, change oil after 500 miles.

Some manufacturers require a longer break in periods like my Q did.
this is nearly impossible where I live. I would be as much of a road hazard as the cyclists and I can't get 2 miles form my house before being on 55mph roads.
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:05 AM   #20
SeerAtlas   SeerAtlas is offline
 
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good thing the chinabikes are inexpensive then, eh ?
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Old 05-09-2016, 08:24 AM   #21
kohburn   kohburn is offline
 
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never had a problem with mototune method of break in on cars, I've never personally met anyone who had the patience to follow a factory recommended break in and doubt most used bikes had it followed either.

for the TT it will probably be broken in similar to described here.


-with fresh oil, on and off the throttle accelerating and engine braking getting incrementally harder on the throttle and higher into the rpm.
-cool down, then spend a couple hours at lower speeds riding off road.
-then cool down oil change and hit the roads like I normally would, just no long distance endurance runs on the highway for a while.


20 minutes here and there should provide some good heat cycling. while commuting to work, but its going to have to deal with speeds over 55 for about 10-15 minutes at a time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mq1991 View Post
****Im not advocating that this is the proper break in procedure, it it just how I did mine****

I personally did mine like this:

-Change oil immediately

-Start the bike, let it idle up to temperature (About 3-5 minutes, you dont want to overheat the engine) and let it cool down

-Change the oil and clean the screen

-Start the bike again, and ride it at a low rpm WITHOUT lugging the engine. (So just drive it where it feels easy for the engine to move the bike). Use alot of engine braking to slow the bike down. Do this for about 20 minutes or so. You should be rolling up to half throttle, and then rolling off to let the engine brake the bike.

-Let the bike cool off for an hour to a few hours if possible.

-Start the bike again, and ride it pretty much how your going to ride it. Just avoid winding the engine out too far. Drive conservatively. I did this until my odometer hit 200km

-Change the oil again

- Drive conservatively until your odometer reads 400km, now getting higher in the RPM range.

-Then let it rip! (I would also change my oil at this point, but it probably inst necessary until about the 800km mark).


Like I said, this probably isnt the right way, but its how I did it and my bike is running great. Be sure to adjust your valves before even starting the bike, it might sound like a chore, but its worth it.

I hope others will chime in on their break in methods.
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Old 10-11-2021, 07:43 PM   #22
Aufgeblassen   Aufgeblassen is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
...and let's not forget! The oil it comes with is "break-in oil" and needs to be kept in it for the entire break-in period! ;-)
Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.


 
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Old 10-12-2021, 06:36 PM   #23
Merlin   Merlin is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen View Post
Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.
He was joking.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:00 PM   #24
FlyingBasset   FlyingBasset is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen View Post
Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.

Dude, you're replying to a thread that's over 5 years old. Who knows what the manual said back then.

I know you're excited, but you don't need to take up the entire first page of the forum.


 
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:47 AM   #25
Aufgeblassen   Aufgeblassen is offline
 
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Originally Posted by FlyingBasset View Post
Dude, you're replying to a thread that's over 5 years old. Who knows what the manual said back then.

I know you're excited, but you don't need to take up the entire first page of the forum.
I guess it came with a tach too back then, as someone said to keep it under 5,000 RPM during break in period.


 
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