Tire Changing Tips from the Pros

[mizke]

the last tire i had changed i went to a golf kart place to get a tube installed. needless to say i had splinters and crap that would have popped the tube. they had the gbc ground buster i have on it now. even using the machine it took about an hour of fighting it for the guy to get the tire on..

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by mizke

the last tire i had changed i went to a golf kart place to get a tube installed. needless to say i had splinters and crap that would have popped the tube. they had the gbc ground buster i have on it now. even using the machine it took about an hour of fighting it for the guy to get the tire on..

That's interesting, Mike. Perhaps you should start an ATV tire changing thread in the ATV Forum. I would be interested to learn what others are doing when they need to change tires on their ATVs.

If you start a new thread in the ATV Forum, I am sure the knowledgeable members of that forum will offer great advice. Also, the information you receive will remain a valuable resource for other ATV owners seeking this knowledge in the future.

Spud

[SpudRider]

If you watch the tire changing videos I referenced in my first post, you will notice that Doug Schopinsky, and Jay Clarke, use many of the same techniques. However, these gentlemen do differ in the way they insert the inner tube into the tire.

I have discovered tire changing is easier if I only inflate the inner tube slightly before I insert it into the tire. You don't need much air in the inner tube to prevent it from twisting, or to prevent pinching the tube while installing the tire. I now inflate the inner tube only enough so my finger creases half the diameter of the tube as I hold the tire suspended from the top.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Doug Schopinsky installs the inner tube after mounting one side of the new tire. Doug then removes the tire from the tire changing stand, and pops the valve stem through the rim by lifting the installed side of the tire with a tire spoon.

I have used Doug's method, and it works. However, I prefer to use rubber rim strips with my tires, and Doug is using a specialized type of duct tape. I prefer rim strips, because I like to thoroughly inspect my spoke nipples after I remove the old tire. Replacing broken spokes is also easier if you employ a rim strip, instead of duct tape.

The specialized duct tape definitely helps Doug to pop the partially inflated tube through the rim. The tape remains centered on the valve stem hole, and the tape also seems to be tapered toward the valve stem hole. In contrast, while using Doug's method with a rubber rim strip, the valve stem likes to grip the rim strip, and can move it out of place, covering the valve stem hole.

If you use Doug's method, you do have enough room to employ a finger to slip the rim strip back in place, and coax the valve stem into the hole. However, when using a rim strip, I have discovered it is easier to insert the inner tube in the tire using Jay Clarke's method.

Spud

[SpudRider]

I have discovered two techniques that make Jay Clarke's method of installing the inner tube easier for me; I would like to share them with you.

I have already mentioned the first tip; use only a small amount of air to partially inflate the inner tube. Inflating the inner tube too much will definitely make the job more difficult.

My second tip is to treat the partially inflated tube, and valve stem, similar to the way you would treat a rim lock as you install the tire. After applying baby powder to the inner tube, and the inside of the tire, I insert the partailly inflated tube into the tire. After lubing the tire with Windex, I pull the portion of the inner tube near the valve stem out of the tire. Placing the lubed side of the tire on the rim, I insert the valve stem through the rim, but I only tighten the lock nut onto the last thread of the valve stem.

I then press down on the tire, forcing it onto the rim about 3/4 of its diameter. Using the Moose Racing tire changing stand certainly makes this part of the job much easier! Next, I press in on the valve stem, making sure to get the partially inflated inner tube away from the rim, and out of the way! I then push the bead of the tire into the dish of the rim near the valve stem. At this point I can usually force the rest of the tire onto the rim by hand. Even if the tire is a little cold, I can still easily spoon the remaining portion of the tire onto the rim, once the inflated tube is out of the way, and the tire bead is seated fully in the dish of the rim.

Following Jay Clarke's advice, I then start installing the final side of the tire at the valve stem. Inserting two tire spoons on opposite sides of the valve stem, I place my Tusk bead buddy to the left of the valve stem, and spoon on the rest of the tire.

Using the proper tools, and the proper technique, really makes the job easy! I strongly encourage everyone to try changing his own motorcycle tires.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Spud, do you leave one nut on the valve stem before installing the tube? That is to say, a new tube comes with two nuts, and one is firmly tightened on the base of the valve stem. I'm trying to learn if there should be one nut on either side of the rim.

Make sense?

[acydrx]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I strongly encourage everyone to try changing his own motorcycle tires.

Oh, I see how it is. Why do you have to discriminate? Women can't change tires?

I am just kidding, but I also believe that every man should change his own tires. Every woman should at least know how to change her own tire, especially in this sport. My girlfriend knows how to change a tire, but if I'm around I end up changing it, and I'm not such a mechanically-inclined guy. I do computers and easy work, not tires and engines. That is slowly changing as I start to enjoy working on such things. I've ruined a few pair of pants, but those are now dirty work pants.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Spud, do you leave one nut on the valve stem before installing the tube? That is to say, a new tube comes with two nuts, and one is firmly tightened on the base of the valve stem. I'm trying to learn if there should be one nut on either side of the rim.

Make sense?

No, I do not leave one nut on the valve stem before installing the inner tube. Doug Schopinsky, and Jay Clarke don't install a nut inside the rim, either I leave the valve stem free to shift with the inner tube, if necessary. I install one nut on the valve stem, outside the rim, but I only use this nut to securely tighten the valve step cap.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by acydrx

Oh, I see how it is. Why do you have to discriminate? Women can't change tires?

I am just kidding...

I know you were kidding. However, I was not discriminating, I was just using proper English grammar. I have not surrendered to the so-called, "politically correct" English police.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Here's the way I combine the techniques from the two tire changing videos. I don’t use rim locks, so my tire changing instructions don’t refer to them. If you use rim locks on your tires, you can learn good techniques to deal with them by viewing the videos I listed in the first post.

Tire Removal Instructions

1. After removing the tire from the motorcycle, place the tire on a tire changing stand. I used to change tires on the ground, but my knees and my back have thanked me ever since I invested in a tire changing stand! You can buy a tire changing stand for about $100; it is an excellent investment that will quickly pay for itself. I prefer to use tire changing stands mounted on an adjustable pedestal; they allow me to work standing up.

2. Remove the valve cap, and the locking nut from the valve stem. Then completely remove the valve core, using the appropriate tool.

3. Using a tire spoon, move around the entire circumference of the tire, breaking the tire bead from the rim. Flip the tire over, and break the bead from the other side of the rim.

4. The rear sprocket can cut you, so if you are changing a rear tire, make sure the sprocket is facing down.

5. Starting 90 degrees from the valve core, insert three tire spoons between the tire bead and the rim. Pull back on each tire spoon in sequence, then remove the middle spoon.

6. Holding the remaining two spoons in place, insert the third spoon between the tire bead and the rim about two inches distant from either of the other two spoons. Pull back on the third spoon, then remove the middle spoon. Continue to repeat this process until the first side of the tire is pulled completely over the rim.

7. Reach in, and remove the inner tube from the tire. Reinsert the valve core into the inner tube.

8. Flip the tire over. While holding the opposite side of the tire elevated with two tire spoons, insert the third spoon between the tire bead and the rim about two inches distant from either of the other two spoons. Pull back on the third spoon, then remove the middle spoon. Continue to repeat this process until the second side of the tire is pulled completely over the rim.

9. Push the tire as far as it will go onto one side of the rim. The other side of the tire will now extend past the rim. Push down on the extended side of the tire, and the tire will slip off the rim, and fall onto the ground surrounding the tire stand.

10. Remove the rim from the tire changing stand. Inspect the rim strip, spokes, spoke nipples, and the rim itself for damage. If necessary, repair the rim before you install a new tire on it.

11. Pull the old tire up over the tire stand, and discard it.

Spud

[SpudRider]

Tire Installation Instructions

1. After inspecting the wheel, I place it on the tire changing stand with the sprocket side down.

2. I put some baby powder inside the new tire, and rotate the tire to spread the powder around. Then I place the new tire on top of the wheel placed on the tire changing stand.

3. I put a little air in my inner tube to prevent twisting the tube upon installation, and to prevent pinch flats. However, I make sure the air pressure is low enough so when I suspend the tube with one finger, the finger produces a large crease in the tube. Overinflating the inner tube makes tire installation more difficult.

4. After partially inflating the inner tube, I inspect the tube while rubbing some baby powder onto it to reduce friction with the mounted tire. If the tube shows any signs of damage, I install a new inner tube.

5. Next I stuff the partially inflated tube inside the tire.

6. After the tube is inside the tire, I spray Windex on the tire to lubricate it before installation.

7. I then pull a small section of the inner tube from the tire so the valve stem is protruding.

8. Now I flip the tire so the lubricated sidewall is next to the rim, and I insert the valve stem through the hole in the rim. I attach the locking nut on the valve stem, but I only tighten it for several threads.

9. Pushing in on the valve stem so the inner tube is not in the way, I force the lubricated tire down onto the wheel with my body weight. If the tire is warm, I can usually install at least ¾ of the tire using just my body weight. If necessary, I use tire spoons to install the rest of this side of the tire.

10. After assuring myself the valve stem is perpendicular to the hole in the rim, I lubricate the top side of the tire with Windex.

11. Using two tire spoons, I pull the tire bead into the rim on both sides of the valve stem, and I attach my bead buddy to the wheel at the left of the valve stem.

12. Alternating with two tire spoons, I pull the bead into the rim as I walk around the tire to the right.

13. When the installation starts to get difficult, I make sure the bead of the tire is pushed deeply into the dish of the rim opposite the tire spoons.

14. When I get to the final 10 inches of the uninstalled tire, I insert two tire spoons before I lift the first spoon, copying the technique demonstrated in the video by Doug Schopinsky.

15. After I lift the first spoon, I don’t need to force the second spoon under the bead, since it is already in place. Therefore, I merely lift the second spoon, and the second side of the tire falls into the rim.

16. I remove the bead buddy, and inflate the tire to aproximately 30 psi, making sure the tire bead seats properly on both sides of the tire.

17. After insuring the bead is properly seated, I reduce the tire inflation to the desired pressure, and the tire is ready to be installed on the motorcycle.

Spud

[FastDoc]

+1 on the Bead Buddy. Also, if not mentioned in Spud's report, the Tusk valve stem puller is a knuckle saver also. The other thing I recommend, if he did not mention is good work gloves. This is a knuckle busting job, and filthy. Also heat helps. In summer leave the tire out in the sun. In the winter heat it inside the house or with a shop heater. Finally, cursing helps, just don't take The Lord's name in vain and you'll be OK.

It may have been mentioned but balancing is NOT needed with a 200cc bike.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by FastDoc

+1 on the Beasd Buddy. Also, if not mentioned in Spud's report, the Tusk valve stem puller is a knuckle saver also...

Doc, if you employ step #8 in my tire installation post, you won't scrape your knuckles, and you won't need a valve stem puller.

Originally Posted by FastDoc

...This is a knuckle busting job, and filthy. Also heat helps. In summer leave the tire out in the sun. In the winter heat it inside the house or with a shop heater. Finally, cursing helps, just don't take The Lord's name in vain and you'll be OK...

Using the proper tools and the techniques demonstrated in the videos, I actually enjoy changing my tires! More specifically, I enjoy doing the job at my convenience, saving money, and knowing the job was done properly. Also, acquiring my Moose Racing tire changing stand made the job enormously easier. I enjoy changing tires while standing upright; my knees, and my back are much happier since I bought my tire changing stand!

Indeed, working with warm ties makes the job enormously easier. However, using the tools and techniques I mentioned, I never feel the desire to curse while changing tires. I strongly encourage everyone to purchase a good tire changing stand, and try the techniques I outlined in my recent posts. As Doug Schopinsky says in the video, "if it's difficult, you're doing something wrong."

Spud

[FastDoc]

Mental note: Get a tire changing stand next time HF has them on sale.

[Weldangrind]

X3 on the Bead Buddy, and I also appreciate the Tusk tire spoon; it has a large curve that will accomodate the tire shape.

I have bead locks on all of our junk (sometimes two) and the method in the video works great.

Thanks for the excellent detail Spud.