New Hawk, new adventures.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

Now Dan, the idea of a partial oil change even makes me cringe, and I don't know enough about the cooler to know if the lines would need to be primed after. But what about changing a quart of the capacity every 500 miles? Certainly seems like alot less hassle.

When I got my '74 K20 it incorporated the constant loss oiling system (which has since been remedied) and because there was always some fresh oil going in it didn't look too bad at the 3000 mile intervals. Just a thought, and I wonder how Jerry handles oil changes with 2 coolers.

I've done it a couple of ways just to experiment and find out which is the best way. First time I did it similar to the way Dan just explained. The last time I drained the oil from the bottom plug. Once that oil had drained I switched the kill switch on and cranked the engine until it sucked all the oil out of the coolers. More oil did come out so I know it was sucking it out. I'm sure there was some left in the cooler but not enough to worry about. I then disconnect the line that the filter screen is on to pull and clean the screen which btw was clean as can be. I may skip this step on the next oil change and do this like every other oil change. After reconnecting the lines I then replace the oil drain plug and fill with 1 quart of oil. With the kill switch still on I'll crank it to prime the cooler. The 1st time I tried this method I was leery on this method so I pulled the hoses from each cooler and tried to top off each cooler. Both were full so the method works on my setup anyway. So after starting I check the oil level and usually add about 4 oz. more oil to bring the oil level just above half glass. I'm not telling everyone this is the way to do. This what has worked for me and as you can see I took precautions to make sure that this method worked.

Like Dan stated. The center stand makes the oil change much easier. Bike is level and no jack stuck in the way of the oil drain pan.

With the oil cooler the life span is much longer between oil changes. Before the oil cooler @ 500 miles the oil would be almost jet black. After installing the oil cooler I changed the oil at 1000 miles and still be a nice golden brown. So the next oil change I pushed it to 1200 miles. Still same golden brown. Now I know this will make Dan and a few others cringe but I have about 1500 miles on the oil and is still a golden brown but I am scheduling an oil change soon even though it probably doesn't need one. Since I installed the dual coolers my oil temps have never gone over 200*. Highest I seen was 189*. This was on a 98* day with the heat index of 106*. Yeah, too dang hot to ride. I do use Quicksilver 15W50 full synthetic Motorcycle oil so not to worried about oil break down. My thinking is if my full size truck is designed for 9000 to 10000 mile oil change intervals I'm sure the little china bike engine will be okay if I push it to 2000 miles.

[China Rider 27]

By what means are you getting the oil temps?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

By what means are you getting the oil temps?

From this temperature/volt meter I installed. Link to thread. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=22409

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I've done it a couple of ways just to experiment and find out which is the best way. First time I did it similar to the way Dan just explained. The last time I drained the oil from the bottom plug. Once that oil had drained I switched the kill switch on and cranked the engine until it sucked all the oil out of the coolers. More oil did come out so I know it was sucking it out. I'm sure there was some left in the cooler but not enough to worry about. I then disconnect the line that the filter screen is on to pull and clean the screen which btw was clean as can be. I may skip this step on the next oil change and do this like every other oil change. After reconnecting the lines I then replace the oil drain plug and fill with 1 quart of oil. With the kill switch still on I'll crank it to prime the cooler. The 1st time I tried this method I was leery on this method so I pulled the hoses from each cooler and tried to top off each cooler. Both were full so the method works on my setup anyway. So after starting I check the oil level and usually add about 4 oz. more oil to bring the oil level just above half glass. I'm not telling everyone this is the way to do. This what has worked for me and as you can see I took precautions to make sure that this method worked.

Like Dan stated. The center stand makes the oil change much easier. Bike is level and no jack stuck in the way of the oil drain pan.

With the oil cooler the life span is much longer between oil changes. Before the oil cooler @ 500 miles the oil would be almost jet black. After installing the oil cooler I changed the oil at 1000 miles and still be a nice golden brown. So the next oil change I pushed it to 1200 miles. Still same golden brown. Now I know this will make Dan and a few others cringe but I have about 1500 miles on the oil and is still a golden brown but I am scheduling an oil change soon even though it probably doesn't need one. Since I installed the dual coolers my oil temps have never gone over 200*. Highest I seen was 189*. This was on a 98* day with the heat index of 106*. Yeah, too dang hot to ride. I do use Quicksilver 15W50 full synthetic Motorcycle oil so not to worried about oil break down. My thinking is if my full size truck is designed for 9000 to 10000 mile oil change intervals I'm sure the little china bike engine will be okay if I push it to 2000 miles.

The second method you did is something I had considered. If I were to try this I would do two things differently. First, definitely on a hot oil change so the oil would flow more freely. I did mine cold since I was also doing the valves at the same time. I just let it drain for a very long time. Second, I would crank it over as you did and then sit it on the side stand for a few minutes to let the head drain down, then bavk on the center stand. Maybe not necessary, but it would help get as much out as possible.

The 1500 mile interval doesn't make me cringe at all. I use shorter intervals because how my bike is used is pretty rough on the oil. Short trips mixed with lots of hard highway runs. I destroy the oil pretty quick. I expect this 15w40 T6 to last every bit of 1000 miles, and possibly longer.

[JerryHawk250]

I always warm he engine up before changing the oil. I just forgot to mention that. lol

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I always warm he engine up before changing the oil. I just forgot to mention that. lol

I figured, and I normally do as well. My one exception is if the bike has been sitting for a couple of days. By that point most of the oil has drained down to the sump.