General tips needed - Page 2

Influencer88 · 06-11-2011, 03:05 AM

You are a godsend. I was having trouble justifying buying all new valves just for the springs. The springs on it look almost new. Going to check the piston rings tomorrow, the guy I bought them from said he thought that was the problem but while cleaning te engine up today I found some bad connections in the harness that goes to the cdi
I think that just may be the culprit.

Also noticed its missing the front brake line from the handle. Time to hunt that down!

Weldangrind · 06-11-2011, 03:24 AM

Aww, shucks.

Regarding the bolts for the head, those will be very specific and not likely easily found at a hardware store. Try to estimate the length of the bolts you need, and I'll compare that with my bolts. Migfht as well ship it all at once.

What do you mean by front brake line? Do you mean the hose?

Influencer88 · 06-11-2011, 03:32 AM

The brake hose that comes out of the master cylinder on the handle bars.

The bolts are all of these on the website.

http://www.roketapartsdept.com/catal...RTS-415-1.html

I'm pretty sure I have them, especially all of the ones from the engine. Its the frame mounts that I'm not positive on.

Weldangrind · 06-11-2011, 03:35 AM

Ok, that won't be too hard to find locally. Perhaps you could even drill out the mounts and use grade 5 SAE bolts.

The best bet would be to buy a complete front brake assembly; it'll be cheap on eBay.

Influencer88 · 06-11-2011, 03:51 AM

Yeah. I'm going to look around. Until then, I rarely use the front brake anyway :twisted:

katoranger · 06-11-2011, 10:18 AM

I just sent a front brake line off yesterday along with the caliper. I will send him a message and if he doesn't need it maybe he can send it to you.

Allen

Influencer88 · 06-12-2011, 12:17 AM

I think I just might have found the most helpful community around!

That would be quite kind of you, and possibly the second person as well. I knew picking up a 6 year old china bike would be interesting to get parts, but you all are downright spoiling me!

katoranger · 06-12-2011, 11:12 AM

He will let me know if he doesn't need the line.

MICRider · 06-12-2011, 11:45 AM

Just out of curiosity, why did the original owner tear it down? Was it burning oil or just not starting?

Influencer88 · 06-12-2011, 01:34 PM

Not sure. Guy I bought it from got it as a project. He sold it because he had quite a few projects going.

That's why as I'm putting it together I'm making sure everything is in good working order. If I know its mechanically sound ill know to dig into the wiring and electrical.

Influencer88 · 06-13-2011, 01:36 AM

Checked the piston rings tonight, can't fit the smallest feeler between the ring and bottom edge. Rings still turn easily around the piston though.

As for the opening, it is at the upper end of the spectrum, .406 and .457 for the top and middle rings, didn't check the oil rings but they are right in line with the previous.

Does this seem alright, or better get new rings?

Weldangrind · 06-13-2011, 02:41 AM

When you say the opening, do you mean the ring gap? Are you measuring it with the ring in the bore and not mounted on the piston?

Influencer88 · 06-13-2011, 11:01 AM

Yes ring gap and yes in the bore without the piston

Weldangrind · 06-13-2011, 11:15 AM

According to my Clymer Honda manual that covers '84 and '85 XR200R models, the ring end gap on the top and second rings should be between 0.10 and 0.30mm. The oil ring spec is 0.2-0.7. Yeah, I'd get new rings.

BTW, the side clearance is listed as 0.015-0.045mm for the top and second ring.

When I rebuilt an XR200R recently, I used a master cylinder hone for the bore. I think I bought a Lisle (vs the generic Chinese model) because the stones are replaceable. I also found a small piston ring compressor for cheap. I hate breaking rings.

Influencer88 · 06-13-2011, 11:30 AM

New rings are ordered. I have a hone and ring compressor to use so no worries there.

I wish I knew what the problem was but since I don't on checking everything. Except the bottom end which Im not going to tear into until I get the top end rebuilt. Atleast then if its not operational I can diagnose the problem.

06-11-2011, 03:24 AM	#17
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Aww, shucks. Regarding the bolts for the head, those will be very specific and not likely easily found at a hardware store. Try to estimate the length of the bolts you need, and I'll compare that with my bolts. Migfht as well ship it all at once. What do you mean by front brake line? Do you mean the hose? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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06-11-2011, 03:35 AM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Ok, that won't be too hard to find locally. Perhaps you could even drill out the mounts and use grade 5 SAE bolts. The best bet would be to buy a complete front brake assembly; it'll be cheap on eBay. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-13-2011, 02:41 AM	#27
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	When you say the opening, do you mean the ring gap? Are you measuring it with the ring in the bore and not mounted on the piston? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-13-2011, 11:15 AM	#29
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	According to my Clymer Honda manual that covers '84 and '85 XR200R models, the ring end gap on the top and second rings should be between 0.10 and 0.30mm. The oil ring spec is 0.2-0.7. Yeah, I'd get new rings. BTW, the side clearance is listed as 0.015-0.045mm for the top and second ring. When I rebuilt an XR200R recently, I used a master cylinder hone for the bore. I think I bought a Lisle (vs the generic Chinese model) because the stones are replaceable. I also found a small piston ring compressor for cheap. I hate breaking rings. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-11-2011, 03:05 AM	#16
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	You are a godsend. I was having trouble justifying buying all new valves just for the springs. The springs on it look almost new. Going to check the piston rings tomorrow, the guy I bought them from said he thought that was the problem but while cleaning te engine up today I found some bad connections in the harness that goes to the cdi I think that just may be the culprit. Also noticed its missing the front brake line from the handle. Time to hunt that down!
	0

06-11-2011, 03:32 AM	#18
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	The brake hose that comes out of the master cylinder on the handle bars. The bolts are all of these on the website. http://www.roketapartsdept.com/catal...RTS-415-1.html I'm pretty sure I have them, especially all of the ones from the engine. Its the frame mounts that I'm not positive on.
	0

06-11-2011, 03:51 AM	#20
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	Yeah. I'm going to look around. Until then, I rarely use the front brake anyway :twisted:
	0

06-11-2011, 10:18 AM	#21
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I just sent a front brake line off yesterday along with the caliper. I will send him a message and if he doesn't need it maybe he can send it to you. Allen
	0

06-12-2011, 12:17 AM	#22
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	I think I just might have found the most helpful community around! That would be quite kind of you, and possibly the second person as well. I knew picking up a 6 year old china bike would be interesting to get parts, but you all are downright spoiling me!
	0

06-12-2011, 11:12 AM	#23
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	He will let me know if he doesn't need the line.
	0

06-12-2011, 11:45 AM	#24
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	Just out of curiosity, why did the original owner tear it down? Was it burning oil or just not starting?
	0

06-12-2011, 01:34 PM	#25
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	Not sure. Guy I bought it from got it as a project. He sold it because he had quite a few projects going. That's why as I'm putting it together I'm making sure everything is in good working order. If I know its mechanically sound ill know to dig into the wiring and electrical.
	0

06-13-2011, 01:36 AM	#26
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	Checked the piston rings tonight, can't fit the smallest feeler between the ring and bottom edge. Rings still turn easily around the piston though. As for the opening, it is at the upper end of the spectrum, .406 and .457 for the top and middle rings, didn't check the oil rings but they are right in line with the previous. Does this seem alright, or better get new rings?
	0

06-13-2011, 11:01 AM	#28
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	Yes ring gap and yes in the bore without the piston
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06-13-2011, 11:30 AM	#30
Influencer88 Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 58	New rings are ordered. I have a hone and ring compressor to use so no worries there. I wish I knew what the problem was but since I don't on checking everything. Except the bottom end which Im not going to tear into until I get the top end rebuilt. Atleast then if its not operational I can diagnose the problem.
	0