Nibbi PE28FL

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

Other PE30 I have worked with they use a molded cable end fitting stop instead of the screw in style. Some of the 90 degree cable ends are just a tube that sits in this slot and the cable fits flush at the end and only the cable itself goes in the tube. Could those be cut down. The Magician has this problem and I had to work through it some. On the Magician I used a 45 degree sloped back toward the center tank channel which gains some space. But dent in the tank no big deal either.

I am willing to give these options a try, but I think I would need to clearance the tank or move the carb back or over in either case, elbow or not.

My main issue is just time to experiment at this point. I get half of one day a week to tinker or do anything of the sort, and that time easily gets taken up with other things.

[China Rider 27]

I hear that with the time issue. These China Bikes can be a full time job as they take you down and around to find the solutions!

[China Rider 27]

I am thinking the PE28FL uses the same needle as the NIBBI PE30 that being the J6ZG?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

I am thinking the PE28FL uses the same needle as the NIBBI PE30 that being the J6ZG?

Mine does. I had to run the second slot on the PE30 as well.

[China Rider 27]

So then everything is most likely the same except the bore size difference of 2 mm and whatever jets you install. Have you noticed any differences between the PE28FL and the PE30 in terms of how they run?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by China Rider 27

So then everything is most likely the same except the bore size difference of 2 mm and whatever jets you install. Have you noticed any differences between the PE28FL and the PE30 in terms of how they run?

Oh yeah, same slide, same bowls, etc. Just a smaller bore.

Honestly, the only two differences I have noticed so far in my limited time with it is the idle stays rock solid, no matter the temp of the air or engine. I don't have to keep fiddling with the mixture and idle speed. The throttle response is just as good. The 28 doesn't have a dead spot in the last bit of the throttle sweep at WOT, unlike the 30. If there is a difference in power, I couldn't point it out. The 28 is definitely sized better for these engines. I don't think the 30 will be a better carb option until I either install the CG300 cylinder or do a more radical cam profile that can take advantage of the airflow.

[toneloc6530]

Update, I ended up using a 40 pilot and 118 main with the needle on the richest setting. Runs great, no more bogs. It has the nibbi cone filter on it and a stoneman exhaust 900ft elevation

[XLsior]

My unit came with a 38 pilot 112 main preinstalled.
Ported head, no Cat, generic foam filter.
about 500m/1000ft elevation at home.

I have found so far 40 pilot roughly1.5-2 turns out A/F with the idle adjustment a crack open gets me about 1000+ rpm my bike exhaust paps with the odd rev spike regardless so Ive just come to accept that's how it behaves.

Finding main was a bit tricky as I don't have my bike plated yet and only have a stretch of yard about 100m long enough to slap 2ng gear and give it the berries before hitting the end of the run way backing off quick smart.

But it seem so far to like 115 main on the 4th clip.

[Desuboi941]

Originally Posted by Megadan

This is the stock intake bolted up to the Nibbi flange finger tight.




The original studs are just barely long enough that they should work. If you would like the stud to be longer, you would have to find a stud that is no more than 3mm longer than the original one though. The reason why simply has to do with the body of the carb where the enrichment plunger is housed will make contact otherwise.

The other option would be to switch to bolts.

In either case, the side pictured needs to be started first so that you can get the nut over the threads to start it. If you try to do it the other way around you can't clear the nut past the body of the carb for the same reason the longer stud can only be 3mm longer. Simply not enough room.

I am going to run the original studs and nuts with some thread locker on them and treat the intake and carb as one complete assembly. Since the space is so tight on that plunger side anyway it would be even more annoying to try and remove the carb that way. The intake bolts are much easier to access.

So I see you’re not using the plastic spacer, I’m having figment issues and I’m wondering if that’s the cause of my problems. I got everything on just right it just seems that the carb comes out at too drastic of an angle and the intake boot or tube wont fit straight on, I got it on but there’s a twist in the tube itself.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Desuboi941

So I see you’re not using the plastic spacer, I’m having figment issues and I’m wondering if that’s the cause of my problems. I got everything on just right it just seems that the carb comes out at too drastic of an angle and the intake boot or tube wont fit straight on, I got it on but there’s a twist in the tube itself.

No need for a spacer with the original intake. The two flanges are separated with the rubber, so the carb doesn't really get all that hot.

[XLsior]

Im using a metal manifold without the insulator/spacer, just 1 of the included paper gaskets and have not experienced any hot carb issue that would make me consider requiring it to be installed.

[dr1445]

just curious if anyone has tied the pz28 with the accelerator pump. i picked up a pz27 with the pump while i was in the states from aliexpress. i got the 27mm version but if my 78 year old brain recalls correctly both the 27 & 28 share the same flange spacing. i put it on my motorstar r155 over here in the philippines, night and day over the stock pz27 carb.. it had the same jets as the original carb. the only install issue was the cable attachment at the throttle, i had to make part for that.

[BakedOregonian]

I just got the Nibbi pe28 and it completely eliminated all the problems I was facing with the stock carb and mikuni clone. I live in Oregon and don't really trust the pod filter I've been using and I was wondering if the original airbox hose would fit my new carb? Does anyone know offhand? I appreciate this groups kindness and wisdom immensely.

[XLsior]

Originally Posted by BakedOregonian

I just got the Nibbi pe28 and it completely eliminated all the problems I was facing with the stock carb and mikuni clone. I live in Oregon and don't really trust the pod filter I've been using and I was wondering if the original airbox hose would fit my new carb? Does anyone know offhand? I appreciate this groups kindness and wisdom immensely.

Cant say from experience as i don't have a China Bike per se
All I know is the PE28/FL has a 48mm intake boot diameter and protrudes slightly further out ...

So if the stock carb is PZ30 type clone then the stock airbox boot probably wont be a direct fit as the boot will be smaller in diameter.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by BakedOregonian

I just got the Nibbi pe28 and it completely eliminated all the problems I was facing with the stock carb and mikuni clone. I live in Oregon and don't really trust the pod filter I've been using and I was wondering if the original airbox hose would fit my new carb? Does anyone know offhand? I appreciate this groups kindness and wisdom immensely.

I didn't fight too hard to try the stock airbox tube on the PE28FL that I installed on my TBR7, but some evidently do get it stretched over the PE28. Some have mentioned boiling the rubber tube, but I just went with a pod. The stock tube is intended for fitting over 42 mm , and the PE28 is around 48 mm- 49 mm. When you say you don't trust the pod because of living in Oregon, do you mean because of wet weather?