Rhino and Mikuni carb

[Darth Racer]

I had the same problem JRS had... Idles really high... will have to cut the cable shield down a 1/4 inch tomorrow to get the round slide to go all the ways down. Didn't realize it was an issue at first.. changed out jets and played with the screws but never had any sort of idle control. DOH!!!!!!

Was good practice I guess.

[jrs]

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

I had the same problem JRS had... Idles really high... will have to cut the cable shield down a 1/4 inch tomorrow to get the round slide to go all the ways down. Didn't realize it was an issue at first.. changed out jets and played with the screws but never had any sort of idle control. DOH!!!!!!

Was good practice I guess.

I figured they changed sonething with production. I knew I couldnt be the only odd ball one. Once you get it dialed in it should feel like a new machine with alot more power

[Darth Racer]

It already sounds a little throatier... I woke something up apparently.

Appreciate you sharing that bit of info about the cable. It helped.

Was an easy enough fix to do. Slipped the cable out of the thumb throttle.. separated it from the collar and just kept unraveling the cable shield until I had some slack to play with. Snapped the excess shield off and stuffed it back into the collar.. good to go.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

It already sounds a little throatier... I woke something up apparently.

Appreciate you sharing that bit of info about the cable. It helped.

Was an easy enough fix to do. Slipped the cable out of the thumb throttle.. separated it from the collar and just kept unraveling the cable shield until I had some slack to play with. Snapped the excess shield off and stuffed it back into the collar.. good to go.

Good to hear! That's really odd...... Maybe their new batch of 8 million cables is the wrong ones?

[Darth Racer]

It might be a change in the stock carb or the Magoonie clone. The cable worked the stock carb fine.

Wouldn't be surprised if they used some ATA250 parts in the initial run of the Rhino to clear out leftover stock.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Darth Racer

It might be a change in the stock carb or the Magoonie clone. The cable worked the stock carb fine.

Wouldn't be surprised if they used some ATA250 parts in the initial run of the Rhino to clear out leftover stock.

That's just so weird! I had no problems going from the stock POS to the Mikuni. It sounds almost like the slide cap on the Mikuni holds the cable further up /out than the stock one.

[Darth Racer]

Yeah I bought my carb from the same link you did. Something has changed just don't know what it is at this point in time. Sure the answer will pop up with the next batch of people that upgrade.

[MizzouFan]

Purchased the one I have from these people. Paid Friday night and received it yesterday. Just have to get jets for it now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Mikuni-...hWUus9&vxp=mtr

Someone mentioned it on here with this link and being state side.

[david3921]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

That's just so weird! I had no problems going from the stock POS to the Mikuni. It sounds almost like the slide cap on the Mikuni holds the cable further up /out than the stock one.

It does, I found that out when I went to install mine today.

I went into the install with the knowledge from here that there might be problems with the cable. I noticed that the end didn't go all the way into the top cap like before. I grabbed the calipers and took some measurements. The old cap has a .252 opening, the new, .222. Guess what? The cable end is .235...wasn't gonna fit. I had two choices here, increase the new cap opening or try the old cap (like Adjuster suggested). I went with the simpler option and it fit. I spent the rest of the time getting my hand toasty adjusting the two screws. Mine came with 100/I don't know jets...probably 20 according to Darth. The clip was at the bottom position out of the box so, thanks 2LZ for alerting us to that. I put it in the middle to start. I got it running pretty smooth but the weird thing is that turning the choke on after warm up has no effect. Usually it makes it stall. I'll start it tomorrow after work and see what happens.

[jrs]

Originally Posted by david3921

It does, I found that out when I went to install mine today.

I went into the install with the knowledge from here that there might be problems with the cable. I noticed that the end didn't go all the way into the top cap like before. I grabbed the calipers and took some measurements. The old cap has a .252 opening, the new, .222. Guess what? The cable end is .235...wasn't gonna fit. I had two choices here, increase the new cap opening or try the old cap (like Adjuster suggested). I went with the simpler option and it fit. I spent the rest of the time getting my hand toasty adjusting the two screws. Mine came with 100/I don't know jets...probably 20 according to Darth. The clip was at the bottom position out of the box so, thanks 2LZ for alerting us to that. I put it in the middle to start. I got it running pretty smooth but the weird thing is that turning the choke on after warm up has no effect. Usually it makes it stall. I'll start it tomorrow after work and see what happens.

I didnt measure the cap but I did try my stock one with the mikuni being that it fit and I still had no luck. Glad you figured out another way still not sure if that would of worked for me though. No expert on carb tunning but if the choke has no affect and is functionin correctly while warm id say you are lean.

[2LZ]

Great news david3921! I've been reading this thread and my brain was having a hard time envisioning what may have changed.

I don't know about the rest of you but I disconnected the choke cable and just reach down and flip the flipper when I need it. The choke cable didn't want to cooperate for me....and also, the thumb thingy up on the bars likes to come loose and have the little bolt come out. Not sure if this is just mine but I eliminated it.

[MizzouFan]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Great news david3921! I've been reading this thread and my brain was having a hard time envisioning what may have changed.

I don't know about the rest of you but I disconnected the choke cable and just reach down and flip the flipper when I need it. The choke cable didn't want to cooperate for me....and also, the thumb thingy up on the bars likes to come loose and have the little bolt come out. Not sure if this is just mine but I eliminated it.

Yeah, I've cranked those screws on the thumb lever for the choke. Still spins on the bar.

[david3921]

The original choke cable bracket works on the new carb as all of the holes line up. There is metal backing piece that is eliminated in the transfer but it works the same. I started mine up when I got home today and it fired right up without the choke. The other carb always needed the choke when cold. It did stall hitting the gas, however, so I applied the choke for a bit and she warmed up quickly. So far, so good.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by david3921

There is metal backing piece that is eliminated in the transfer but it works the same.

This is where I decided to scrap the thumb choke. Between the screw up on the handle coming loose on me twice allowing the choke to roll off on its own, I wanted to try to keep the "clickity click" feature on the new carb so the thumb paddle would stay in incremental spots.
I played with it for a while and then said "screw it", If I need a choke, I'll flip the flipper on the carb. It's way easier to get at than on the TT250. Now that's a stupid spot for a choke flipper.