Pre-Check before I start the new Apollo

[Ski_rush]

Might sound corny, but I wanted to do a pre-check before I try to fire it up for the first time. I did things with this bike (prior to starting it) that I didn't do with my first one. I'm not going to ride it tomorrow (going to rain all day and there's still snow and ice out there); just want to start it.

Things I've done so far:

1. Changed the oil to 10w40 motorcycle oil. I used regular motorcycle oil...was tempted to use Rotella, but maybe next time; which will be soon.

2. Changed the spark plug to NGK. The stock plug was an "NGK", but who know if it really was.

3. Swapped in a Minuki carb (twice ); installed a 115 main jet.

4. Adjusted the valve clearance. Sure enough, they were set from the factory as tight as they could go. I set the intake valve to .003 and exhaust valve to .004. Since I've never done this before, I wanted to check if I did it right. I removed the caps and the spark plug. Used a 14mm socket with a breaker bar to have more control of turning the engine over. Put my finger in the spark plug hole and waited to feel the pressure pushing on my finger. Then, I turned the engine a bit until the marks lined up. This engine didn't have a T or an F. Rather, it only had a straight line (I checked a few times). I started with the intake valve and set it to .003 and then set the exhaust valve to .004. Then, snugged everything up. It wasn't hard to do, but you do have to remove several things on this bike to gain access to the spark plug and the exhaust valve.

Having never adjusted a valve clearance before, I just want to make sure I did it right so I don't damage anything. The thing I worry about it making sure that I set the valve clearance at the right "spot". Not the gap part (that was easy), but by "spot" I mean the engine "position"...combustion stroke vs. exhaust stroke. If I had to do this job again, it's not a big deal; it was pretty easy, other than making sure I did it at the right spot/stroke.

5. Set up and charged the Battery. I don't plan on using the stock battery other than in my garage. I had a terrible experience with my last bike with the battery and this bike has the same battery. I don't want to relive that experience. I will get a gel and sealed battery soon.

I still need to go through the bike and loctite important bolts. Like I said, I'm not going to ride the bike tomorrow. I just want to start it to see: a) if it starts, and b) how it sounds.

What do you think guys? Did I miss anything? Does the valve clearance steps I took sound right (especially getting the compression stroke)?

Thanks!

[Bruces]

Gas ,you need to put some gas in it .

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Bruces

Gas ,you need to put some gas in it .

I've seen that happen in shop class way back when I was in high school. Teacher asked the guy, "you sure you got everything?" 3 times. He answered yes all three times and couldn't figure why it wouldn't start.
Another guy in shop did the same with oil.Teacher asked the guy, "you sure you got everything?" Guy said yes. Teacher said " go head and start it up" . It ran for about a minute before it locked up. First guy with the gas got a D and the one that forgot the oil got a F and had to rebuild the engine again.

But yeah Ski_rush, Put some gas in her and crank her up. And don't forget to open the garage door or do this outside.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Ski_rush

4. Adjusted the valve clearance. Sure enough, they were set from the factory as tight as they could go. I set the intake valve to .003 and exhaust valve to .004. Since I've never done this before, I wanted to check if I did it right. I removed the caps and the spark plug. Used a 14mm socket with a breaker bar to have more control of turning the engine over. Put my finger in the spark plug hole and waited to feel the pressure pushing on my finger. Then, I turned the engine a bit until the marks lined up. This engine didn't have a T or an F. Rather, it only had a straight line (I checked a few times). I started with the intake valve and set it to .003 and then set the exhaust valve to .004. Then, snugged everything up. It wasn't hard to do, but you do have to remove several things on this bike to gain access to the spark plug and the exhaust valve.

Having never adjusted a valve clearance before, I just want to make sure I did it right so I don't damage anything. The thing I worry about it making sure that I set the valve clearance at the right "spot". Not the gap part (that was easy), but by "spot" I mean the engine "position"...combustion stroke vs. exhaust stroke. If I had to do this job again, it's not a big deal; it was pretty easy, other than making sure I did it at the right spot/stroke.

Sometimes the T next to that timing mark is damn near impossible to see. If you watch the flywheel as you turn the motor over, before it gets to the TDC line there should be a another line or pair of lines with an F, which is the timing marks for the ignition coil "Firing" position. These will appear just before it reaches TDC.

If those marks are not visible or available for some reason, then the easiest way to ensure you reach TDC without any sort of timing marks available will require a length of coat hanger or other thin straight item that is long enough to stick through the spark plug hole, but long enough that you can't accidentally drop it in the cylinder.

With the plug out and valve cover off. Turn the engine over until you see the intake valve open. Stick said wire into the spark plug hole until it touches the cylinder and keep it as vertical as you can. Keep turning the engine until the wire stops rising.

Now that you have made the cylinder reach the top of it's bore you can use that wire to actually find true TDC. Using a breaker bar (or non ratcheting device of some kind) slowly keep turning the engine until the wire just starts to go back down. Once it starts to move, stop, then mark the position of the breaker bar on the side case - a piece of tape or grease marker works fine.

Now turn the engine back the other way slowly until again you feel the wire just starting to travel down. Mark the position of the breaker bar again on the side case.

With your two marks you can now put the breaker bar right between the two marks you just made. Welcome to as close to TDC as you can get without a timing mark. This is more than good enough to set valve lash at.

[tarote9025]

Id definantely change out the brake fluid to some dot 3 or 4 and bleed em out it only takes about 15 minutes but its great for peace of mind if nothing else