Hawk Talk - Page 60

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-11-2017, 05:13 PM

I forgot to mention yesterday that some bikes are coming through with undersized caliper mounting bolts. I would remove the caliper, and run the supplied mounting bolts into the fork leg about 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch and see if they wiggle around in the threads on the fork leg. If they do, do NOT tighten them up tight in an effort to "git 'er done". Go to the GOOD hardware store, and get the right bolts. Personally, I prefer Allen screws. They seem to be made better. If the bolt you take out is shouldered, use the same Allen screw to replace it. Put anti-seize on the threads...ARH

wamey · 07-11-2017, 10:27 PM

Another thing to check is the exhaust bolt directly beneath the air box. If this rattles out then the exhaust oscillates back and forth until it cracks off the top exhaust stud in your cylinder head. Fixing that sucks.

Put red loctite on the exhaust securing bolt beneath the air box. If you want redundancy, drill and safety wire it, or put a hose clamp around the exhaust and frame.

I was on a 400 mile ADV trip with two friends, all three of us were on hawks (new as of Memorial day), all three of us had this happen during the trip. Don't be us.

Megadan · 07-12-2017, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wamey

Put red loctite on the exhaust securing bolt beneath the air box.

I would recommend against loctite 272 (red high temp high strength) for that bolt. They make a medium strength high temp blue. Same thermal capability, but wont be a total pain in the rear to get off. It is known as loctite 246.

wamey · 07-12-2017, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

I would recommend against loctite 272 (red high temp high strength) for that bolt. They make a medium strength high temp blue. Same thermal capability, but wont be a total pain in the rear to get off. It is known as loctite 246.

Ok, so if you're desperate for that bolt to stay in and only have red loctite, all you need to do to remove it later is heat it up with a torch to +550F, which will melt the rubber that's sandwiched in there. I guess I have melting rubber to look forward to

Megadan · 07-12-2017, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wamey

Ok, so if you're desperate for that bolt to stay in and only have red loctite, all you need to do to remove it later is heat it up with a torch to +550F, which will melt the rubber that's sandwiched in there. I guess I have melting rubber to look forward to

Not judging at all lol. It works, but many people probably dont want to take a torch close to their painted frame or forget to do so and round off the bolt, or break it because they forgot it had high strength. This advice is for others more than you directly. Even heated, 272 can be a bear.

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-13-2017, 06:12 PM

Except for three states, most registation issues are the result of the MCO or MSO stating that the Hawk is a dirt bike. It is up to YOU to make sure that whoever sold it to you states "motorcycle" on the afore mentioned MCO/MSO. The three states that know more than you do about what you should own and ride - California, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Yes, you can solve the Jersey/Pa problem by first registering it, by mail, in Vermont, and then transferring it to your home state. California is hopeless. Don't even try it....ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-16-2017, 09:49 PM

I just realized that I glossed over something on carb tuning in previous discussions of this system. Unfortunately this solution only works on Mikuni Carburetors, because Mikuni is the only outfit that offers interchangeable throttle slides. Now, if you prefer to roll on the throttle, the slide that comes on the carburetor you bought is adequete for the job. But if you like to grab a big handfull of throttle, then the standard throttle slide is too lean. You can cheat a little by going a little richer on the pilot jet, but it is easy to have an over rich idle that way. So the answer is less cut-away on the throttle slide. Less cut-away increases the suction on the pilot jet so that when you crack the throttle, you have a richer mixture of air and fuel. And this helps acceleration. And this lesser cut-away helps all the way up to around half throttle. And yes, you can feel the difference. You may have to lower the needle one slot to prevent an over rich condition at half throttle. And a word to the wise. Yes, you can overdo this whole idea, and then you will be worse off than before. The throttle cut-away thingie works on both round slide and square slide Mikuni carbs. Even better on square slides....ARH

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-19-2017, 09:14 AM

You will avoid many electrical problems by making sure of good grounds. The alternator puts out about 35 volts, AC. The rectifier converts the AC to DC, at a nominal 12 volts. Actually, 13.1 to 14. If that rectifier is not 100% grounded, things like CDI's are trying to handle short spikes of too much AC voltage that they were never designed to deal with. The frames come down the line painted to where the parts are attached. I have previously stated what it is like working on an assembly line. You only have so much time at each station to bolt these parts on. I don't know of an assembly plant anywhere in the world that does not use air operated torque wrenches. Some are magazine fed, but most are not. The theory is that the screw attaching it to the frame will cut through the paint in the hole and make an acceptable ground. I'd say 90 or 95% of the time it works, maybe even more that that. But if you count the number of grounds on your bike, even 1 % means that about 1 in 25 will have problems. Could they ream out the holes to ensure good grounds? On a $1200.00 motorcycle? Get real...ARH

BlackBike · 07-19-2017, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

You will avoid many electrical problems by making sure of good grounds. The alternator puts out about 35 volts, AC. The rectifier converts the AC to DC, at a nominal 12 volts. Actually, 13.1 to 14. If that rectifier is not 100% grounded, things like CDI's are trying to handle short spikes of too much AC voltage that they were never designed to deal with. The frames come down the line painted to where the parts are attached. I have previously stated what it is like working on an assembly line. You only have so much time at each station to bolt these parts on. I don't know of an assembly plant anywhere in the world that does not use air operated torque wrenches. Some are magazine fed, but most are not. The theory is that the screw attaching it to the frame will cut through the paint in the hole and make an acceptable ground. I'd say 90 or 95% of the time it works, maybe even more that that. But if you count the number of grounds on your bike, even 1 % means that about 1 in 25 will have problems. Could they ream out the holes to ensure good grounds? On a $1200.00 motorcycle? Get real...ARH

wamey · 07-19-2017, 04:31 PM

So I took off my hawk's wheels to change tires, noticed that the bearing inner races are almost impossible to turn by hand. Is this normal?

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-19-2017, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Egg-zactly!

Ariel Red Hunter · 07-19-2017, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wamey

So I took off my hawk's wheels to change tires, noticed that the bearing inner races are almost impossible to turn by hand. Is this normal?

No. Take the bearings to your local store that sells seals (not the ones that Pete wants us to ride), and bearings, or go online and get a name brand. Either Japanese, American or German...ARH

hertz9753 · 07-19-2017, 11:26 PM

What was Pete recommending? Some how I remember sealed ass bearings or something like that.

Megadan · 07-20-2017, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wamey

So I took off my hawk's wheels to change tires, noticed that the bearing inner races are almost impossible to turn by hand. Is this normal?

Mine were the same way when I first got my bike. When I removed them they spun freely again so I reinstalled them and they worked fine. I do plan on ordering new ones here soon for both front and rear. I just need to get the bearing specs or numbers.

wamey · 07-20-2017, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

Mine were the same way when I first got my bike. When I removed them they spun freely again so I reinstalled them and they worked fine. I do plan on ordering new ones here soon for both front and rear. I just need to get the bearing specs or numbers.

Front wheel bearings

Rear wheel bearings

I suspect the spacer tube in the wheel hub is slightly too long and that's why they don't spin (because the assemblers pressed only the outer races when installing the bearings) but I don't know for sure.

07-11-2017, 05:13 PM	#886
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Brakes. I forgot to mention yesterday that some bikes are coming through with undersized caliper mounting bolts. I would remove the caliper, and run the supplied mounting bolts into the fork leg about 1/4 or 3/8 of an inch and see if they wiggle around in the threads on the fork leg. If they do, do NOT tighten them up tight in an effort to "git 'er done". Go to the GOOD hardware store, and get the right bolts. Personally, I prefer Allen screws. They seem to be made better. If the bolt you take out is shouldered, use the same Allen screw to replace it. Put anti-seize on the threads...ARH
	0

07-11-2017, 10:27 PM	#887
wamey Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 96	Another thing to check is the exhaust bolt directly beneath the air box. If this rattles out then the exhaust oscillates back and forth until it cracks off the top exhaust stud in your cylinder head. Fixing that sucks. Put red loctite on the exhaust securing bolt beneath the air box. If you want redundancy, drill and safety wire it, or put a hose clamp around the exhaust and frame. I was on a 400 mile ADV trip with two friends, all three of us were on hawks (new as of Memorial day), all three of us had this happen during the trip. Don't be us. Last edited by wamey; 07-12-2017 at 09:49 AM.
	0

07-13-2017, 06:12 PM	#891
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Registration. Except for three states, most registation issues are the result of the MCO or MSO stating that the Hawk is a dirt bike. It is up to YOU to make sure that whoever sold it to you states "motorcycle" on the afore mentioned MCO/MSO. The three states that know more than you do about what you should own and ride - California, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. Yes, you can solve the Jersey/Pa problem by first registering it, by mail, in Vermont, and then transferring it to your home state. California is hopeless. Don't even try it....ARH
	0

07-16-2017, 09:49 PM	#892
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Carburetor Magic I just realized that I glossed over something on carb tuning in previous discussions of this system. Unfortunately this solution only works on Mikuni Carburetors, because Mikuni is the only outfit that offers interchangeable throttle slides. Now, if you prefer to roll on the throttle, the slide that comes on the carburetor you bought is adequete for the job. But if you like to grab a big handfull of throttle, then the standard throttle slide is too lean. You can cheat a little by going a little richer on the pilot jet, but it is easy to have an over rich idle that way. So the answer is less cut-away on the throttle slide. Less cut-away increases the suction on the pilot jet so that when you crack the throttle, you have a richer mixture of air and fuel. And this helps acceleration. And this lesser cut-away helps all the way up to around half throttle. And yes, you can feel the difference. You may have to lower the needle one slot to prevent an over rich condition at half throttle. And a word to the wise. Yes, you can overdo this whole idea, and then you will be worse off than before. The throttle cut-away thingie works on both round slide and square slide Mikuni carbs. Even better on square slides....ARH
	1

07-19-2017, 09:14 AM	#893
Ariel Red Hunter Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: akwesasne, NY-13655 Posts: 2,220	Ground. You will avoid many electrical problems by making sure of good grounds. The alternator puts out about 35 volts, AC. The rectifier converts the AC to DC, at a nominal 12 volts. Actually, 13.1 to 14. If that rectifier is not 100% grounded, things like CDI's are trying to handle short spikes of too much AC voltage that they were never designed to deal with. The frames come down the line painted to where the parts are attached. I have previously stated what it is like working on an assembly line. You only have so much time at each station to bolt these parts on. I don't know of an assembly plant anywhere in the world that does not use air operated torque wrenches. Some are magazine fed, but most are not. The theory is that the screw attaching it to the frame will cut through the paint in the hole and make an acceptable ground. I'd say 90 or 95% of the time it works, maybe even more that that. But if you count the number of grounds on your bike, even 1 % means that about 1 in 25 will have problems. Could they ream out the holes to ensure good grounds? On a $1200.00 motorcycle? Get real...ARH
	1

07-19-2017, 04:31 PM	#895
wamey Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 96	So I took off my hawk's wheels to change tires, noticed that the bearing inner races are almost impossible to turn by hand. Is this normal?
	0

07-19-2017, 11:26 PM	#898
hertz9753 Join Date: May 2016 Location: Bismarck, ND Posts: 868	What was Pete recommending? Some how I remember sealed ass bearings or something like that. __________________ 2015 and 3/4 RPS Hawk 250. Most people would call it a 2016 but the MCO didn't.
	0