17 tooth sprocket

[elevatorman]

yesterday I attempted to install a 17 tooth sprocket to go with a 45 tooth rear .
I couldn't get the housing that covers sprocket back on and then changed to
16 tooth. With 16 tooth everything fit okay.
What have other people done to make the housing work out?

[Megadan]

It's a tight fit with the chain when re-installing. I simply used the highly accurate line it up and thump it with my hand method. When fully installed the chain does not rub the housing. It's just the angle it has to go in at causes a very slight interference with the housing. One of these days I am going to take some sand paper and resize it a little bit.

That said, stick with the 16 tooth. If you want equivalent gearing to a 17/45 with your 16 tooth front sprocket, switch to a 43 tooth rear.

It shouldn't be too hard to recoup most of your money on either the 17 or 45 tooth sprocket on here. Or keep them for later if you want to try different gearing combinations.

[silva]

Install the cover first then run chain thru.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by silva

Install the cover first then run chain thru.

I tried that, but with a front sprocket change you end up removing the chain. To feed one through with no chain installed requores hands way smaller than what I was born with. I would agree if you were just installing a new chain, because you can use the old one to pull the new one through. Admittedly, a new oring chain is pretty stiff, so if you try to feed it around it never goes slack and just tries to keep going around.

[pcspecialist]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I tried that, but with a front sprocket change you end up removing the chain. To feed one through with no chain installed requores hands way smaller than what I was born with. I would agree if you were just installing a new chain, because you can use the old one to pull the new one through. Admittedly, a new oring chain is pretty stiff, so if you try to feed it around it never goes slack and just tries to keep going around.

You were doing it wrong then. It's the only way I'm able to do it on mine, with the help of a screwdriver.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by pcspecialist

You were doing it wrong then. It's the only way I'm able to do it on mine, with the help of a screwdriver.

Wrong in this case is subjective. Ideally that cover should come off to inspect the sprocket anyway if you are replacing a chain. and aside from the 17 tooth sprocket, the cover and chain/sprocket dont cause an issue. Either method works, but I would prefer to remove the cover with the chain installed for multiple reasons.

[timcosby]

just takes some wiggleing. mine went on after i found the one angle that let it slip in.

[old kid]

If you put the keeper behind the sprocket it will prevent the sprocket from going all the way in on the shaft, this should give you plenty of room to get the cover back on. Some of the others here simply cut out a small section of the cover to get it to fit.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by timcosby

just takes some wiggleing. mine went on after i found the one angle that let it slip in.

Same here. I put the chain on the sprocket before I slipped it on to the shaft. The cover slipped right on.

[Megadan]

You guys are lucky then. I chalk it up to some variance in casting and machining tolerances, or it could be my chain is just a tiny bit bigger. Mine just ever so slightly gets hung up, no matter where I position it or wiggle it. There are some very light marks where you can see the shoulders of the chain links at the pins has just barely rubbed on the housing, but did not leave any indentations or shave any metal off. Hence my idea to hit it with a little bit of sand paper and take it back just a little bit.

[Rangerscott]

Just get it on and let the chain do its own machining. Lol

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Rangerscott

Just get it on and let the chain do its own machining. Lol

The chain doesn't touch the cover at all when it's installed, only when removing or installing the cover.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Megadan

You guys are lucky then. I chalk it up to some variance in casting and machining tolerances, or it could be my chain is just a tiny bit bigger. Mine just ever so slightly gets hung up, no matter where I position it or wiggle it. There are some very light marks where you can see the shoulders of the chain links at the pins has just barely rubbed on the housing, but did not leave any indentations or shave any metal off. Hence my idea to hit it with a little bit of sand paper and take it back just a little bit.

It depends on what batch of Hawks you got. I think Tim's and mine came out the same batch and we both ended up with decent chains from the factory. old kids had the sprocket keeper slot milled in a different location and had to mount the keeper on the inside to clear the engine housing. The last batch that yours came from has the issue with the rear sprocket bolts. I guess they are not consistent on manufacturing these bikes.

[Megadan]

Well, I don't have the factory chain installed. I have an RK brand O-ring chain installed.