2022 1/2 Templar X

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I'd like to order a couple of parts ahead of time that i know will be changed out sooner rather than later: rear sprocket and chain..

Can anyone confirm this is the optimal rear sprocket: JT JTR210.42

I read of one member using this sprocket but they needed to open up the countersunk holes.. just would like to confirm if thats the general consensus on install or whether there is a better rear sprocket fitment. thanks

I went with JTR210-39T

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I went with JTR210-39T

Any fitment issues? I ordered the JTR210-42T. Figure if 13/42 works for Jerry on the KPX it'll work for me here but if further gearing is needed i can always up to a 14T in front

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Any fitment issues? I ordered the JTR210-42T. Figure if 13/42 works for Jerry on the KPX it'll work for me here but if further gearing is needed i can always up to a 14T in front

The original front sprocket is 13T. Combined with the 49T original rear sprocket, this bike excels in tight, steep, and technical off road situations and gears are close ratio since it is geared down so much. But that is the intended market! Makes sense.

I did go with 14T front, but that DOES required grinding a shield down. I will take a picture when I have a chance. I was concerned about keeping the area clean, but the sprocket cover has additional shrouding, so it's OK. I think this will be the same in the new 172-FMM-5 engine, but I might rethink the gearing now that I've ridden it. It has the power to pull 70+, but even my Tusk Dsport beast on the Storm is a smoother road tire!

[Thumper]

I thought I had melted my ground wire so I replaced my wiring harness. It turns out it was a faulty starter (which I fixed), but while I was at it, I got a new set of led sequential turn signals. I just tried the in the back. Maybe I will save the other two for now. Just under $20 from amazon. Sweet!



I also replaced the battery with an 80 CCA bigger battery. It barely fit, but much more power!

[Texas Pete]

Adding on to Thumper's excellent post.


I have ordered all the tools to grind off the blind break off bolts.


Of course waiting for the my wife to get back with the car so I can go get some replacement M4-.7x16mm socket head bolts to put in after they are out I decided to give it a go with my old fashioned way to pass the time.


What a success that was!


I used my hacksaw and cut a slot deep into the first break off bolt. Using thumb and finger to align the blade and just kept draging it non cutting across the top until I had the smallest of purchases, then a tiny push forward and it slowly opened a the beginning of the slot. I then cut down deep.


I had a kit of screw ends, typical phillips, torx and flat head for some tool but never used them. They gave me three different sizes of flats.


Without the tool I just grabbed a small adjustable wrench and sized it to fit the hex shank. I then inserte the smallest into the slot as the others wouldn't fit all the way down.


Pushing the bit down with my thumb and weight I very slowly turned the adjustable wrench. I felt the bolt melt smooshing ever so slightly and as I kept the pressure on and watching I saw movement. I kept moving it slowly and the pressure slowly smooshed the metal more.



Once the metal was opened slightly I moved up to the next sized flat blade bit and continued. I ended up going through all three sizes and finally the bolt was out! -- happy dance!





Now for the second.


Repeating the hacksaw start on this one but it slipped. I repositioned and tried again. Slip. Slowed down and tried again and got a bite. When I removed the hacksaw to inspect the beginning of the slot. Dismay! -- I cut it offset from center ever so slightly. I just made my job that much harder.


I cut the slot down deep and then repeated the process of smallest flat blade and going up as the metal smooshed. The bolt did not move on the smallest blade, only smooshed. Oh no!


I moved up to the second blade and it started smooshing and I thought I was finished and had to wait until the tools arrive on Saturday to grind it off. But it suddenly moved a millimeter. I could tell from the force needed this wasn't going to end well.


But I managed to get it to move 90 degrees before it accelerated on the smooshing and stopping on the moving the bolt. I took this time to cut a second hacksaw slot in ala Phillips style. It was worth a gamble. At the rate of smooshing and little movement I was at failure point with the first slot.


I took a small lightweight hammer and tapped a regular sized flat blade screwdriver into the first slot to open up the center of the slot to allow a bigger blade.


I then worked the new slot with the smallest flat blade bit and worked up. More smooshing, more work than the first bolt due to off center slot but I got it to move a little more out.


The rest was lightweight hammer and regular sized flat blade to open the center on the second slot then very slow turn with pressure down and as it smooshed switch slots and tap down and repeat, as that smooshed switch slots and tap down to open up.


Finally I have success!


Photos to see the bolt that gave the grief. Now I am off to the hardware store for new replacement bolts.





and detail of the top of the bolt after smooshings after both cuts

[flatlandsouth82]

Originally Posted by Thumper

I thought I had melted my ground wire so I replaced my wiring harness. It turns out it was a faulty starter (which I fixed), but while I was at it, I got a new set of led sequential turn signals. I just tried the in the back. Maybe I will save the other two for now. Just under $20 from amazon. Sweet!



I also replaced the battery with an 80 CCA bigger battery. It barely fit, but much more power!

Attachment 27696

Cool man missouri huh same here is that a chopper or sprtster? I'm in missouri too let's start a club lol!!

[Thumper]

I drilled out the pilot air mixture screw adjustment blockoff and reset to about 2 turns out. I had previously rejet to 42 on the pilot jet, so took others advice and thought 2 turns would be OK.

It was WAY too lean on mine. I closed the air mix to just under 1 turn and it starts/idles great now.

On the Keihin clone Youall smoothbore, this is an airscrew. Opening it adds more air to the mix. So closing it to 1 turn enriched the mixture.

The main clue was popping and backfiring. These are signs of lean mixture. I was thinking CDI or something!

It is HARD to get a screwdriver onto this. On mine it is right behind a frame stay. So I used this 4mm screwdriver bit on a short magnetized extension. This REALLY made adjustment easy: