Break in period

bogieboy · 05-05-2016, 10:48 AM

i may open a can of worms on this one, but i am a firm believer in this method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

and the reason why it works?

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

2LZ · 05-05-2016, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogieboy

The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! [/SIZE] [SIZE=2]If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

An excellent point also! Especially in two strokes, seating the rings is critical and happens quickly. "They" (who is "they" really?) also say to decelerate from higher RPM's when slowing down and use your brakes less. This creates vacuum in the cylinder to expand the rings. This helps with seating.

Weldangrind · 05-05-2016, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

"They" (who is "they" really?) also say to decelerate from higher RPM's when slowing down and use your brakes less. This creates vacuum in the cylinder to expand the rings. This helps with seating.

I have a buddy who is an air-cooled VW freak, and he advocates this method.

Mag00 · 05-05-2016, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bogieboy

i may open a can of worms on this one, but i am a firm believer in this method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

LOL, that myth was bound to show up. There is a hellofalot more to engine/motorcycle break in than rings.

pistolclass · 05-05-2016, 08:05 PM

Ok read all the posts... Excellent advise. My conclusion: Pull wheelies for proper break in.

mq1991 · 05-05-2016, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pistolclass

Ok read all the posts... Excellent advise. My conclusion: Pull wheelies for proper break in.

Yup, immediately after start up, bang it off the rev limiter to heat it up, engines like being warm right? Heating it up faster must be good!

Then proceed to downshift into first from 50mph. The excessive engine speed causes the parts to fit better.

2LZ · 05-06-2016, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mq1991

Yup, immediately after start up, bang it off the rev limiter to heat it up, engines like being warm right? Heating it up faster must be good!

Then proceed to downshift into first from 50mph. The excessive engine speed causes the parts to fit better.

...and let's not forget! The oil it comes with is "break-in oil" and needs to be kept in it for the entire break-in period! ;-)

Aufgeblassen · 10-11-2021, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

...and let's not forget! The oil it comes with is "break-in oil" and needs to be kept in it for the entire break-in period! ;-)

Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.

Merlin · 10-12-2021, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen

Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.

He was joking.

FlyingBasset · 10-12-2021, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aufgeblassen

Not true! The Tao Motor TBR7 comes with "shipping oil" that is NOT supposed to be used WHATSOEVER, according to the Manual. Should be drained and replaced with real oil.

Dude, you're replying to a thread that's over 5 years old. Who knows what the manual said back then.

I know you're excited, but you don't need to take up the entire first page of the forum.

05-05-2016, 10:48 AM	#1
bogieboy Join Date: May 2013 Location: finger lakes NY Posts: 2,045	i may open a can of worms on this one, but i am a firm believer in this method... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Warm the engine up completely: Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want anyone to get hit from behind !! The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears ! Be Safe On The Street ! Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process. and the reason why it works? The Problem With "Easy Break In" ... The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !! If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
	2

05-05-2016, 08:05 PM	#5
pistolclass Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: connecticut Posts: 978	Ok read all the posts... Excellent advise. My conclusion: Pull wheelies for proper break in.
	3