Hawk is here, yay!

[goat67]

What rim sizes does the Hawk have? I know that the front is a 21 and the rear is a 18, what are the widths?

Also what size tires did you get in the 705s?

The 705 looks like a good replacement for my Brozz.

Did you look at the 804 and 805?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by goat67

What rim sizes does the Hawk have? I know that the front is a 21 and the rear is a 18, what are the widths?

Also what size tires did you get in the 705s?

The 705 looks like a good replacement for my Brozz.

Did you look at the 804 and 805?

Widths, more or less, are kind of the standard Honda dirt bike 2.15 rear and 1.6 front when measured from the inner bead flanges.

Sizes I am using are 90/90-21 and 120/80-18. Some will argue that the 120/80-18 is too wide for a 2.15 rim, but it meets the minimum recommended width for this tire size, and from what I have found rides and handles just fine. It does cause the tire crown to be more peaked, which I mentioned in a previous post, but not enough to cause poor handling or other issues.

I did not look at the 804 and 805 because they are too aggressive of a tire for my use personally. I did consider the Shinko 700, which is considered a 60/40 tire, but has great ratings for it's off road capability in all but the most extreme situations and decent on-road manners as well. It comes in a 3.0x21 and 4.6x18 which are perfectly matched to the Hawks rim widths.

The only other tire I looked at is far more street oriented than even the Shinko 705, which was the Avon Trailrider, a 90/10 tire. I just didn't feel like investing $200+ in tires right now. I got the 705's, with tubes, and mounting for $50 less than the Avons would have cost me on their own.

I obviously don't do much serious off-road riding, so on-road capability is more important to me. If you use your bike on anything more than dirt paths and gravel roads, then the 804/805 or the 700 tires would be right up your alley. The 700's are also almost half the price of the 804/805. Also, the 805 rear tire only comes in a 120/90-18, which will be a nearly 1 inch taller diameter than any other the other tires mentioned, which will have a small affect on the overall final drive of the bike - making it act like you put on a lower tooth count rear sprocket.

[goat67]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Widths, more or less, are kind of the standard Honda dirt bike 2.15 rear and 1.6 front when measured from the inner bead flanges.

Sizes I am using are 90/90-21 and 120/80-18. Some will argue that the 120/80-18 is too wide for a 2.15 rim, but it meets the minimum recommended width for this tire size, and from what I have found rides and handles just fine. It does cause the tire crown to be more peaked, which I mentioned in a previous post, but not enough to cause poor handling or other issues.

I did not look at the 804 and 805 because they are too aggressive of a tire for my use personally. I did consider the Shinko 700, which is considered a 60/40 tire, but has great ratings for it's off road capability in all but the most extreme situations and decent on-road manners as well. It comes in a 3.0x21 and 4.6x18 which are perfectly matched to the Hawks rim widths.

The only other tire I looked at is far more street oriented than even the Shinko 705, which was the Avon Trailrider, a 90/10 tire. I just didn't feel like investing $200+ in tires right now. I got the 705's, with tubes, and mounting for $50 less than the Avons would have cost me on their own.

I obviously don't do much serious off-road riding, so on-road capability is more important to me. If you use your bike on anything more than dirt paths and gravel roads, then the 804/805 or the 700 tires would be right up your alley. The 700's are also almost half the price of the 804/805. Also, the 805 rear tire only comes in a 120/90-18, which will be a nearly 1 inch taller diameter than any other the other tires mentioned, which will have a small affect on the overall final drive of the bike - making it act like you put on a lower tooth count rear sprocket.

So your rim width stamped on the rim are 2.15 and 1.6?

I have 2.5 and 1.85 would the 120/90-17 and a 110/80-19 be a good fit for these rims?
Stock sizes are 110-90-17 and 90-90-19

I do not do much if any off road riding so the 705s maybe the best fit.

[pete]

my XTR has 2.5" rear rim I run 130 "510" tyres on it..
but a 130 might not fit in the swing arm , need to try one..
120 "460" do fit with no issues...


..

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by goat67

So your rim width stamped on the rim are 2.15 and 1.6?

I have 2.5 and 1.85 would the 120/90-17 and a 110/80-19 be a good fit for these rims?
Stock sizes are 110-90-17 and 90-90-19

I do not do much if any off road riding so the 705s maybe the best fit.

I actually couldn't find the stampings on my rims. Not sure if they got covered up with paint or never got stamped. I simply measured them. From the inside of the bead flanges, they are basically 2.15" across (2.20" actual) rear and 1.6 front (1.66 actual)

With a 17x2.5 rear wheel wheel you can definitely run a 120/90-17 or a 120/80 17 without issue. Both are a little different in diameter from your stock size. 120/80-17 is about a third of an inch smaller diameter, the 120/90-17 is about 3/4 of an inch larger in diameter. Obviously both will affect your final drive gearing a little but that can always be adjusted for. You could even go as far as a 130/90-17 if you wanted to witha 2.5" wheel. This is the exact wheel and tire size on my Goldwing (see picture below).

With the front wheel, I would personally not go any wider than a 100 width tire on a 1.85" wheel. Either stick to a 90/90-19 or a 100/80 -19 - which is pretty much the same diameter. A 100/90-19 can also work, but will be about half an inch taller in diameter which will throw off your speedo a little bit.

Just keep in mind that tire dynamics with bikes are sometimes counter intuitive to what you think. Wider tires are not always necessarily better for handling. This video does a pretty good job of explaining what I mean.

[Megadan]

Not a great picture, but it shows off the new tires and my new black pod filter. I mainly bought it to experiment with angles, but also to have a backup for when I need to clean my Uni and let it dry.

One of these guys. Not bad for a cheap air filter. It does not come oiled nor said it needs to be, but I played it safe with it being a foam filter and gave it a spray down. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-45mm-A...72.m2749.l2649

The angle is just about perfect, and it's only a tiny bit shorter than the Uni. No noticeable difference in performance. Longevity will be a different question, but for $8... I can't complain.

I will say this, a part of me kind of wants to relace the front wheel with a rear 18" rim and do a fat-tire bike with a 120/80-18 on both ends. I think it would look really good lol.

[Emerikol]

Great picture of the Goldwing! What were the specs on the wheel bearings? I think I'm going to do mine after we get to Arizona. The stocker is going to last until we get settled out there. With the new baby and all the moving prep, I just don't have time to ride lately. Anybody want to come help load a Uhaul?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Emerikol

Great picture of the Goldwing! What were the specs on the wheel bearings? I think I'm going to do mine after we get to Arizona. The stocker is going to last until we get settled out there. With the new baby and all the moving prep, I just don't have time to ride lately. Anybody want to come help load a Uhaul?

Thank you sir, one of my better "artsy" pictures of my Wing lol. Sometimes I manage to take a good one.

Wheel bearings: 6301-2rs for the front and 6302-2rs for the rear. 2 each obviously.

I managed to get my hands on some German made SKF brand bearings, but there are plenty of good options out there. Regardless of the brand, my biggest criteria for bearings tend to be if they are made in Japan, Germany, or America. I have had good luck with SKF Bearings made in India as well, but to each their own. I used to be a hardcore Timken lover, but they no longer produce bearings in the US due to a buyout/restructuring, so finding US Made Timkens is damn near impossible.

You can always go with All Balls Racing bearings. Good prices and I have never been disappointed with their quality. http://www.allballsracing.com/6301-2rs.html

http://www.allballsracing.com/6302-2rs.html

[Emerikol]

Thanks for the info on the bearings. Right now the bikes are lashed down in the workshop while I try to figure out how to make everything fit in a 26' Uhaul. The bikes are the big problem because once they get loaded, all the vertical space above them is wasted. Depending on how everything sits in the back of the truck, I may build a shelf above them to get some more storage space. The problem with doing that is if it shifts somewhere around, oh, I don't know, Texas, I'm completely boned because I won't have the tools, parts, or power to make a field repair. I don't know. Depends on how everything shakes out, I suppose.

[Megadan]

The shelf is a good idea. Keep the deck of the shelf close to the bikes, and if you have to loosen the handlebars and swing them down. Then just keep the load on the shelf light. Clothing and such.

The last time I moved I had to transport 4 bikes in much the same way. I ended up making something akin to tables/half crates that I placed over the bikes. I draped large heavy blankets over the bikes and removed the handlebars or swung them down out of the way. I also dropped the bike down on the forks a bit. I then braced the "tables" together with short lengths of scrap wood.

I had the same worries as you did, but if you pack the truck in right, with everything else up against it, you would be amazed at how well it will hold together.

As far as if said shelf does break - a cordless drill and self tapping wood screws should be able to at least do a temporary repair. That said, you can never overbuild something lol.

[Megadan]

As a side note on the tires. Going from a 110/100-18 to a 120/80-18 did result in a 1 inch reduction in rear tire diameter. The bike now feels geared somewhere between the stock tire size with a 17/45 and the 17/43. Doing the math for a 44 tooth sprocket on the stock tire size actually matches closely to a 17/43 with the 120/80-18. Within a tenth or two of a MPH closely.

[goat67]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I actually couldn't find the stampings on my rims. Not sure if they got covered up with paint or never got stamped. I simply measured them. From the inside of the bead flanges, they are basically 2.15" across (2.20" actual) rear and 1.6 front (1.66 actual)

With a 17x2.5 rear wheel wheel you can definitely run a 120/90-17 or a 120/80 17 without issue. Both are a little different in diameter from your stock size. 120/80-17 is about a third of an inch smaller diameter, the 120/90-17 is about 3/4 of an inch larger in diameter. Obviously both will affect your final drive gearing a little but that can always be adjusted for. You could even go as far as a 130/90-17 if you wanted to witha 2.5" wheel. This is the exact wheel and tire size on my Goldwing (see picture below).

With the front wheel, I would personally not go any wider than a 100 width tire on a 1.85" wheel. Either stick to a 90/90-19 or a 100/80 -19 - which is pretty much the same diameter. A 100/90-19 can also work, but will be about half an inch taller in diameter which will throw off your speedo a little bit.

Just keep in mind that tire dynamics with bikes are sometimes counter intuitive to what you think. Wider tires are not always necessarily better for handling. This video does a pretty good job of explaining what I mean.

Thanks for the info.

The front tire is the issue.
In the Shinkos I would need to use a 241 or 244 to get the correct size.
What do you think of these?
I would like to use a 705 but they do not come in a size that works with my front rim.

[ben2go]

Originally Posted by goat67

Thanks for the info.

The front tire is the issue.
In the Shinkos I would need to use a 241 or 244 to get the correct size.
What do you think of these?
I would like to use a 705 but they do not come in a size that works with my front rim.

The 241 and 244 have been used on the TW with raving success by the owners,

[Megadan]

The Skino 705 doesn't come in the sizes you need, but you can get the Kenda K761, which is more or less the same type of tire as the 705 made by another manufacturer, and it does come in a 120/90-17 and 100/90-19

http://powersports.kendatire.com/en-...61-dual-sport/

If you go on a website and only see a size listed as rear, like the 100/90-19 K761, just keep in mind that many of these dual sport tires are designed to be used in both locations. They actually have two direction of rotation arrows on the sidewall indicating what direction they should turn depending on if they are mounted in front or rear. Make sure to check the actual manufacturers website to verify.

As far as the Shinko 244, this would also be a good tire. It's a 50/50 tire so it will be a bit better off road than the 705 or K761's. If you do any trail riding, this would probably be a better tire.

[goat67]

Thanks for the info I have some choices now, that is always a good thing.