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Old 10-13-2021, 07:11 PM   #1
severely   severely is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
Worked on the carb today as i could see from the plug she was lean on idle and hard to start. A couple of discoveries:
- the stock PZ30 has a metal cap over the idle screw, you can twist it off with plier to reveal the idle screw (so stupid imo).
- there is no idle air/fuel mixture screw
- pilot is a 37 / main is a 102

Since I had my old stock PZ30 from the Brozz, i decided to use it instead. I used 2 shim washers under the needle, kept the 37 pilot (Brozz was a 34) and changed the main to a 110. Turned the a/f out 2.5 turns.
Started right up and a short ride reveals it to be much snappier and no deceleration popping!
Really excited to hear your experience in the carb tuning area. You mentioned there is no air/fuel mixture screw and then mentioned turning a/f out 2.5 turns. What are you turning 2.5 turns? Or just a keyboard mistake? Thanks


 
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Old 10-13-2021, 09:34 PM   #2
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by severely View Post
Really excited to hear your experience in the carb tuning area. You mentioned there is no air/fuel mixture screw and then mentioned turning a/f out 2.5 turns. What are you turning 2.5 turns? Or just a keyboard mistake? Thanks
I had my old stock PZ30 from my other bike, Brozz Recon (which im currently running a PE30 carb on) and i just used this carb instead on the Titan as its the same exact carb but with the a/f screw exposed.. i adjusted the a/f on this carb and its on the bike now and running well.
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Old 01-25-2022, 04:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
Worked on the carb today as i could see from the plug she was lean on idle and hard to start. A couple of discoveries:
- the stock PZ30 has a metal cap over the idle screw, you can twist it off with plier to reveal the idle screw (so stupid imo).
- there is no idle air/fuel mixture screw
- pilot is a 37 / main is a 102

Since I had my old stock PZ30 from the Brozz, i decided to use it instead. I used 2 shim washers under the needle, kept the 37 pilot (Brozz was a 34) and changed the main to a 110. Turned the a/f out 2.5 turns.
Started right up and a short ride reveals it to be much snappier and no deceleration popping!
This is great! Good to hear that you know what you are doing and made good choices. NICE


 
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Old 10-13-2021, 03:37 PM   #4
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Thanks, didnt realize that. in any case, it was easier to just go with my stock Brozz PZ30 which was in practically new condition.
At this point the only other performance mod im looking into is removed the stock cat and the 4 degree timing key.. not sure if there is any benefit to going with an aftermarket carb at this or that point?
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Old 10-14-2021, 07:42 AM   #5
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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From my research it seems that the stock PZ30 when tuned properly is adequate for these 250's when basic bolt-on mods have been performed like air filter, exhaust, cdi, timing key, etc. When you did into the engine internals such as port/polish, cam, increasing bore, etc then its time to move up to a carb like a PE30/PWK30.

But i'd love to hear opinions on this.. on my Brozz, i didnt jump to the PE30 until i had the port/polish work done.. prior to that i was running a tuned PZ30 with exhaust and air pod
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Old 10-14-2021, 04:39 PM   #6
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Added a rev box orange CDI and spark plug wire I picked up off Amazon.. Also removed the side plastics, i think it looks more sleek now..
Note: the plug wire that comes with this kit is a bit on the long side, so I zip-tied by the horn to prevent it from melting
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File Type: jpg Message_1634224747698_resized.jpg (84.2 KB, 921 views)
File Type: jpg Message_1634225045094_resized.jpg (99.5 KB, 904 views)
File Type: jpg Message_1634225027423_resized.jpg (103.1 KB, 994 views)
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Old 08-23-2022, 11:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tknj99 View Post
Added a rev box orange CDI and spark plug wire I picked up off Amazon.. Also removed the side plastics, i think it looks more sleek now..
Note: the plug wire that comes with this kit is a bit on the long side, so I zip-tied by the horn to prevent it from melting
Titan is looking great

Does that orange box add-on or replace existing CDI ??

I am wondering if it is an alternative to advance key for a slight advance. I wonder how many degrees it really advanced the spark? Electronic advance is a a common superbike mod, like Dynojet Power commander, which has maybe five advance curves to choose from.


 
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Old 08-23-2022, 01:07 PM   #8
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper View Post
Titan is looking great

Does that orange box add-on or replace existing CDI ??

I am wondering if it is an alternative to advance key for a slight advance. I wonder how many degrees it really advanced the spark? Electronic advance is a a common superbike mod, like Dynojet Power commander, which has maybe five advance curves to choose from.
It replaces the stock CDI and probably advances slightly. After a bad experience with a flywheel key on my Brozz I'm going to stick with it as is and just plan on uncorking the exhaust
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:24 PM   #9
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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PSA: went for a ride today and she stalled out on me while riding.. Couldn't get her to start after.. I opened tbe gas cap and heard the pressure release.. It seems the fuel cap vent valve was installed wrong or defective from the factory causing pressure buildup.. After replacing the cap she fired right up.. I'll have to look at it closer next chance I get in an effort to remedy the issue.
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Old 10-17-2021, 02:45 PM   #10
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Update re: gas cap

To remedy the issue, simply pull off the 1" section of tube from the clear ring to the black valve cap (circled in red) and then attach the black cap to the bottom section of tube.
The clear ring piece seems to have let air in but not out.
With that section removed, she is running great and no more stalling out as a result
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Old 10-18-2021, 03:00 PM   #11
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Added bark busters:
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Old 10-19-2021, 08:30 AM   #12
severely   severely is offline
 
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What's the reason for the rev box orange CDI? More rpm? Power?


 
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:14 AM   #13
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by severely View Post
What's the reason for the rev box orange CDI? More rpm? Power?
Its supposed to advance the timing slightly and provide more power at the lower-mid rev range.. it also eliminates the rev limit..
Its a first for me, i got it on recommendation of Plump Kibbles who has the same bike.. im still in break-in mode so keeping under 6k or so for now
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Old 10-19-2021, 09:17 AM   #14
tknj99   tknj99 is offline
 
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One observation i have noticed with this bike is that she is hard to keep running when cold.. it seems i need to raise the idle to around 2k for her to stay running and even when warmed up she doesnt like to go below 1750.. I will have to fiddle with the a/f screw on the carb to try to remedy that.. When the idle is lowered to around 1500 i hear it gasping for air and then eventually stall which i believe indicates being too lean at idle.
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Old 10-19-2021, 12:39 PM   #15
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That's a sweet bike, especially for the price! Of course, not available in CA. :-(
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