Brand new 2023 Lifan X-pect 200 EFI. Issues from first start

Sdmfjon · 10-09-2023, 12:05 PM

Hello all,

I purchased a brand new Lifan X-pect 200 EFI and paid for the assembly service. I'm sorry that I did because I had to go over entire bike, adjust everything and had to do valve clearances.

I am making this thread to help out all others who need information. I have been an auto tech for decades and have worked on vehicles from the 1970's and later.

Sdmfjon · 10-09-2023, 12:41 PM

At first startup I added fuel and went to start and it stalled out immediately and would not idle. The idle was set at 1000rpm however the specs plate on the side said 1500rpm. I had to adjust the idle screw until it would idle.

Immediately upon putting into 1st gear the bike jumped forward and stalled. Starting again with the clutch in, the bike lurched forward. I had to adjust the clutch cable out and the specs are between 10 and 20mm. Currently about 15mm ish. Feels nice.

Upon turning the wheel to the right, the RPMs shot up to about 4000rpms. I had to adjust the throttle cable to prevent this.

During first ride I noticed the rear brake did not work. I found the adjuster about 2 turns from coming off the shaft. I had to adjust it many turns in (lost count) to get the rear brake to work. Easy to do just turn the adjuster until it works and you like the feel.

Ok so valve clearance issue.

Symptoms -
When it is idling, it lugs a good amount almost like it's trying to stall but catches itself. Eventually it stalls. It is currently idling at 1500 - 1600 rpms but will die within about 20-30seconds.

A few times the bike cut off simply by giving it throttle.
The power delivery is inconsistent, feels like engine is hesitating under acceleration.

Service performed.

After about 30 miles and two oil changes, this morning I checked the valve clearances. They were set at 0 lash. I set them to the factory specs in the manual .03mm and .05mm. *Seems to run a lot better.*

I put another 20 miles on it and the stalling symptoms have subsided.seems like it has a little more giddyup too. No weird noises however, still sounds clicky. (Oh well)

So, there are some tricks to this. First you don't have to take the fuel tank off, just take the bolt out and prop it up with a piece of 2x4. Works great, saves time.

It is super easy to line up the motor with the T mark. Remove the two covers on the left side. One is where the bolt is to turn the motor, the other shows the notch in threads and the magneto with the T mark. TURN THE ENGINE TO YOUR LEFT, VERY I IMPORTANT!!!! DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE BACKWARDS.!!!!!! ok so when the t mark is lined up with the notch in the threads wiggle the rocker arms. If they are tight you are on the exhaust stroke and the motor needs to be rotated 360°. When on the compression stroke the rocker arms will wiggle (even if set at 0 lash, there is still a definitive difference.)
There is no torque spec so just tighten up the nuts. Same with the rocker cover bolts. Tighten them up evenly to hand tight, then a little torque. Not much tho you will strip the cheap aluminum. Just check to make sure no oil leaks out and your fine.

**** should you set the valve clearances on the exhaust stroke and not compression you will know very quickly. That thing will barely run and will sound really bad. *******

Mudflap · 10-09-2023, 01:02 PM

I used to be a motorcycle mechanic and service manager at shops in the Bay area. For a long time we assembled new bikes in our shop. Took our time and did it right. Later on we had all the bikes shipped to a motorcycle assembly company then delivered to us "ready to ride". We ended up spending more time correcting mistakes than it would have taken us to do it right the first time.

zero_dgz · 10-09-2023, 01:22 PM

This is why I never pay for, nor trust, assembly services from any of these distributors. Usually these guys are just drop shippers who barely know what they're doing and don't care even if they did. If I do the assembly and PDI myself I at least know only one idiot touched it (me) so it's easy to figure out who to blame.

**JerryHawk250** · 10-09-2023, 01:35 PM

And this is why most of us here prefer to do our own assembly. The only one you will be able to blame if something goes wrong will be yourself. I trust my work before i would trust my life in someone else hands. I had bought a brand new Kawasaki Vulcan S a while back. I asked the guy if it was ready for the road. Of course he told me yes. Lucky i was picking up on a trailer. When I got home I went through the bike from one end to the other. Ture where improperly fill as in about 8-10 psi per tire. The bracket that held the battery wasn't installed. Bolt was just sitting on top. Chain needed adjusting and lubrication. No way was this bike ready to ride. I would check the whole bike over if i were you.

Boatguy · 10-09-2023, 02:55 PM

I think you should mention where you bought it. Mine came pre-assembled without even paying for it from Xpro.

I’m really thankful I didn’t have all of the problems you were mentioning. My valves were always a little bit off. But I rode for 5000 miles before I fixed them. Mine were way too loose

Here is the thread where I did my valve adjustment and there are pics of things you are describing:

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31053

The only thing I had to do with my bike in the first 2000 miles was fix a factory defect for my year were they forgot to put a conduit on the main wiring harness and it chaffed.

Other than that I just put the handlebars on and that was it.

Has been running like a top ever since.

Sorry your place did not put it together well. But you should name it so people know.

10-09-2023, 12:05 PM	#1
Sdmfjon Join Date: Oct 2023 Posts: 11	Brand new 2023 Lifan X-pect 200 EFI. Issues from first start Hello all, I purchased a brand new Lifan X-pect 200 EFI and paid for the assembly service. I'm sorry that I did because I had to go over entire bike, adjust everything and had to do valve clearances. I am making this thread to help out all others who need information. I have been an auto tech for decades and have worked on vehicles from the 1970's and later.
	0

10-09-2023, 01:35 PM	#5
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,552	And this is why most of us here prefer to do our own assembly. The only one you will be able to blame if something goes wrong will be yourself. I trust my work before i would trust my life in someone else hands. I had bought a brand new Kawasaki Vulcan S a while back. I asked the guy if it was ready for the road. Of course he told me yes. Lucky i was picking up on a trailer. When I got home I went through the bike from one end to the other. Ture where improperly fill as in about 8-10 psi per tire. The bracket that held the battery wasn't installed. Bolt was just sitting on top. Chain needed adjusting and lubrication. No way was this bike ready to ride. I would check the whole bike over if i were you. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	1

10-09-2023, 02:55 PM	#6
Boatguy Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Northeast Posts: 929	I think you should mention where you bought it. Mine came pre-assembled without even paying for it from Xpro. I’m really thankful I didn’t have all of the problems you were mentioning. My valves were always a little bit off. But I rode for 5000 miles before I fixed them. Mine were way too loose Here is the thread where I did my valve adjustment and there are pics of things you are describing: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31053 The only thing I had to do with my bike in the first 2000 miles was fix a factory defect for my year were they forgot to put a conduit on the main wiring harness and it chaffed. Other than that I just put the handlebars on and that was it. Has been running like a top ever since. Sorry your place did not put it together well. But you should name it so people know. __________________ 2020 Lifan x-pect
	0

10-09-2023, 12:41 PM	#2
Sdmfjon Join Date: Oct 2023 Posts: 11	At first startup I added fuel and went to start and it stalled out immediately and would not idle. The idle was set at 1000rpm however the specs plate on the side said 1500rpm. I had to adjust the idle screw until it would idle. Immediately upon putting into 1st gear the bike jumped forward and stalled. Starting again with the clutch in, the bike lurched forward. I had to adjust the clutch cable out and the specs are between 10 and 20mm. Currently about 15mm ish. Feels nice. Upon turning the wheel to the right, the RPMs shot up to about 4000rpms. I had to adjust the throttle cable to prevent this. During first ride I noticed the rear brake did not work. I found the adjuster about 2 turns from coming off the shaft. I had to adjust it many turns in (lost count) to get the rear brake to work. Easy to do just turn the adjuster until it works and you like the feel. Ok so valve clearance issue. Symptoms - When it is idling, it lugs a good amount almost like it's trying to stall but catches itself. Eventually it stalls. It is currently idling at 1500 - 1600 rpms but will die within about 20-30seconds. A few times the bike cut off simply by giving it throttle. The power delivery is inconsistent, feels like engine is hesitating under acceleration. Service performed. After about 30 miles and two oil changes, this morning I checked the valve clearances. They were set at 0 lash. I set them to the factory specs in the manual .03mm and .05mm. Seems to run a lot better. I put another 20 miles on it and the stalling symptoms have subsided.seems like it has a little more giddyup too. No weird noises however, still sounds clicky. (Oh well) So, there are some tricks to this. First you don't have to take the fuel tank off, just take the bolt out and prop it up with a piece of 2x4. Works great, saves time. It is super easy to line up the motor with the T mark. Remove the two covers on the left side. One is where the bolt is to turn the motor, the other shows the notch in threads and the magneto with the T mark. TURN THE ENGINE TO YOUR LEFT, VERY I IMPORTANT!!!! DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE BACKWARDS.!!!!!! ok so when the t mark is lined up with the notch in the threads wiggle the rocker arms. If they are tight you are on the exhaust stroke and the motor needs to be rotated 360°. When on the compression stroke the rocker arms will wiggle (even if set at 0 lash, there is still a definitive difference.) There is no torque spec so just tighten up the nuts. Same with the rocker cover bolts. Tighten them up evenly to hand tight, then a little torque. Not much tho you will strip the cheap aluminum. Just check to make sure no oil leaks out and your fine. ** should you set the valve clearances on the exhaust stroke and not compression you will know very quickly. That thing will barely run and will sound really bad. *****
	0

10-09-2023, 01:02 PM	#3
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,870	I used to be a motorcycle mechanic and service manager at shops in the Bay area. For a long time we assembled new bikes in our shop. Took our time and did it right. Later on we had all the bikes shipped to a motorcycle assembly company then delivered to us "ready to ride". We ended up spending more time correcting mistakes than it would have taken us to do it right the first time.
	1

10-09-2023, 01:22 PM	#4
zero_dgz Join Date: Jan 2020 Posts: 247	This is why I never pay for, nor trust, assembly services from any of these distributors. Usually these guys are just drop shippers who barely know what they're doing and don't care even if they did. If I do the assembly and PDI myself I at least know only one idiot touched it (me) so it's easy to figure out who to blame.
	1