Chain jumping? - Page 3

Ariel Red Hunter · 06-17-2018, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

The swingarm decal say's 25mm of free rotation but doesn't say anything about suspension position. I gave it an inch of slack while the rear tire was off ground then as seen in the last vid it still has about an inch of slack while the rear tire is on the ground. Have no idea of that's right or not of course.

I can tell you the 'Lee Rail Viking' method of solving this problem. It is most easily done with a helper, but you can do it alone if you have to. With the bike off of its center stand and about a foot and a half away from a wall on the chain side of the bike, lay over the seat, face down and feel of the chain slack. Should be 1 inch at the tightest point. Once you have the chain at the correct tension, get off the bike, put it on the center stand and measure chain slack again. Write it down in the same notebook that you always take with you when you ride. If you ever have a flat, this technique will make it a lot easier to re-set chain tension by the side of the road...ARH

ChipToothy · 06-17-2018, 02:20 PM

Ok, another attempt.. . I wish it could be as simple as having a reference point, like chain shouldn’t be more than 1/4” from touching the swingarm etc etc. All I have to go on is how how much travel the chain has while sitting on the kick stand.

ChipToothy · 06-17-2018, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I can tell you the 'Lee Rail Viking' method of solving this problem. It is most easily done with a helper, but you can do it alone if you have to. With the bike off of its center stand and about a foot and a half away from a wall on the chain side of the bike, lay over the seat, face down and feel of the chain slack. Should be 1 inch at the tightest point. Once you have the chain at the correct tension, get off the bike, put it on the center stand and measure chain slack again. Write it down in the same notebook that you always take with you when you ride. If you ever have a flat, this technique will make it a lot easier to re-set chain tension by the side of the road...ARH

Ok, so with a fully loaded suspension the chain should have 1”/25mm of up and down movement. That makes things easier knowing the 25mm asked for on the bike is with a hard compressed spring. If I’m understanding correctly.

Megadan · 06-17-2018, 02:32 PM

That looks a lot better. One thing to keep in mind, you shouldn't force the chain. Free Play means just that, how far it moves with minimal pressure to move it. Once you start pushing harder to make it move as far as you can make it move then you are adding tension to the chain and it is no longer "free"

ChipToothy · 06-17-2018, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

That looks a lot better. One thing to keep in mind, you shouldn't force the chain. Free Play means just that, how far it moves with minimal pressure to move it. Once you start pushing harder to make it move as far as you can make it move then you are adding tension to the chain and it is no longer "free"

Ok, so it should be safe to ride then? If so I will measure the travel and keep that as a future reference point.

Oooo, any things I should listen or feel for during the test ride, give away signs the chain is too loose or too tight?

Cravin01 · 06-17-2018, 04:22 PM

I agree, your right in the zone with that amount of tension.

If you over tighten the chain you can actually feel it bind and kinda pull the back of the bike up if you stand on the pegs and use you weight to bounce on the suspension while traveling at a modest speed. If it doesn't kick you a little then it's not too tight. I hope that makes sense ?

ChipToothy · 06-17-2018, 06:01 PM

Last attempt. If this isn’t right I’m just going to park it on the sidewalk with the keys in it and a note saying Good Luck!

pcspecialist · 06-17-2018, 07:26 PM

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....8&postcount=39

Cravin01 · 06-17-2018, 08:45 PM

I thought you were good on your second attempt.

timcosby · 06-17-2018, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

Last attempt. If this isn’t right I’m just going to park it on the sidewalk with the keys in it and a note saying Good Luck!

looks way too lose for me. mine would jump off at that tension

goat67 · 06-18-2018, 06:47 AM

I do not know if anyone has mentioned this, there is a point that the chain has the least amount of tension the rear sprocket is not 100% true.

So get the rear wheel off the ground and slowly turn it watching / feeling the tension in the chain.

When you find the place it has the least amount of tension mark it with a permanent marker.

I made a straight line aligned with the swing arm / chain adjustment.

Now when I check the tension I make sure that the line is aligned with the swing arm and I get an accurate reading.

BTW I replaced the original chain as it was a POS and I was adjusting it all the time it seems.

ChipToothy · 06-18-2018, 07:37 AM

Ok too loose again. I loosened it this last time because while sitting on the bike I reached down and there was only 1-2 mm of play. From what I understand there should be 25 mm?

**JerryHawk250** · 06-18-2018, 10:07 AM

I had a busy weekend so just reading this tread. I don't know if it's the camera angle or not but there isn't much clearance for the chain with a 17 tooth sprocket. It would take much to cause some major damage to the housing with the chain jumping tooth. Hoping it's just an optical illusion. if not I would drop to a 16 tooth.
Best way to adjust the chain is to get a ratchet strap and attach to the swing arm and rack at the rear and ratchet it down until you find were the chain will be at it's tightest position. Adjust the play in the chain at this point. Once you remove the ratchet strap you will know exactly how much play there should be in the chain without a load on it. The second to last video looked to be about the right amount of play at the tightest position.

ben2go · 06-18-2018, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

So how do you guys set the tension after changing a flat on the side of the road? No work stands, hoist straps or guys hanging out at the shop to help style.

I never mess with the adjusters when I pull the rear wheel to make repairs. I pull the axle bolt and drop the wheel out.

Ariel Red Hunter · 06-18-2018, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipToothy

Ok, so with a fully loaded suspension the chain should have 1”/25mm of up and down movement. That makes things easier knowing the 25mm asked for on the bike is with a hard compressed spring. If I’m understanding correctly.

Since the beginning of time (NOT 2001, 1901!) final drive chains were recommended to have 3/4 of an inch of up and down play at the tightest point in the chain run. This was, of course, on rigid framed motor cycles. And it meant 'no tighter than' 3/4 of an inch up and down slack. 1 inch gives you a little margin for error, also reduces chain stretch.

While you have that chain off I hope you are going to thoroughly wash that chain out in a kerosene bath, then bathe it in melted canning wax mixed with colloidal graphite. DON'T LET THE WAX BOIL!! It will seriously reduce its lubrication qualities....ARH

06-17-2018, 02:32 PM	#34
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 7,990	That looks a lot better. One thing to keep in mind, you shouldn't force the chain. Free Play means just that, how far it moves with minimal pressure to move it. Once you start pushing harder to make it move as far as you can make it move then you are adding tension to the chain and it is no longer "free" __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
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06-17-2018, 04:22 PM	#36
Cravin01 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Forney Texas Posts: 498	I agree, your right in the zone with that amount of tension. If you over tighten the chain you can actually feel it bind and kinda pull the back of the bike up if you stand on the pegs and use you weight to bounce on the suspension while traveling at a modest speed. If it doesn't kick you a little then it's not too tight. I hope that makes sense ? __________________ Visit me on YouTube at "Project Next"! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6KTCi2GVbfRDv-2XCqHhsg?view_as=subscriber 2017 Bashan Storm Keihen PZ30 Pumper Carb,115 main jet,35 pilot jet, gutted factory exhaust, Sambo Digital Speedometer,LED blinkers, H4 headlight,D.I.D X-ring chain 428,17/42 sprockets,UNI cone filter.
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06-17-2018, 08:45 PM	#39
Cravin01 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Forney Texas Posts: 498	I thought you were good on your second attempt. __________________ Visit me on YouTube at "Project Next"! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6KTCi2GVbfRDv-2XCqHhsg?view_as=subscriber 2017 Bashan Storm Keihen PZ30 Pumper Carb,115 main jet,35 pilot jet, gutted factory exhaust, Sambo Digital Speedometer,LED blinkers, H4 headlight,D.I.D X-ring chain 428,17/42 sprockets,UNI cone filter.
	1

06-18-2018, 06:47 AM	#41
goat67 Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Twin Cities MN Posts: 525	I do not know if anyone has mentioned this, there is a point that the chain has the least amount of tension the rear sprocket is not 100% true. So get the rear wheel off the ground and slowly turn it watching / feeling the tension in the chain. When you find the place it has the least amount of tension mark it with a permanent marker. I made a straight line aligned with the swing arm / chain adjustment. Now when I check the tension I make sure that the line is aligned with the swing arm and I get an accurate reading. BTW I replaced the original chain as it was a POS and I was adjusting it all the time it seems. __________________ 2016 Brozz
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06-18-2018, 10:07 AM	#43
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,554	I had a busy weekend so just reading this tread. I don't know if it's the camera angle or not but there isn't much clearance for the chain with a 17 tooth sprocket. It would take much to cause some major damage to the housing with the chain jumping tooth. Hoping it's just an optical illusion. if not I would drop to a 16 tooth. Best way to adjust the chain is to get a ratchet strap and attach to the swing arm and rack at the rear and ratchet it down until you find were the chain will be at it's tightest position. Adjust the play in the chain at this point. Once you remove the ratchet strap you will know exactly how much play there should be in the chain without a load on it. The second to last video looked to be about the right amount of play at the tightest position. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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06-17-2018, 02:20 PM	#32
ChipToothy Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 819	Ok, another attempt.. . I wish it could be as simple as having a reference point, like chain shouldn’t be more than 1/4” from touching the swingarm etc etc. All I have to go on is how how much travel the chain has while sitting on the kick stand.
	1

06-17-2018, 06:01 PM	#37
ChipToothy Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 819	Last attempt. If this isn’t right I’m just going to park it on the sidewalk with the keys in it and a note saying Good Luck!
	0

06-17-2018, 07:26 PM	#38
pcspecialist Join Date: May 2016 Posts: 583	http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....8&postcount=39
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06-18-2018, 07:37 AM	#42
ChipToothy Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 819	Ok too loose again. I loosened it this last time because while sitting on the bike I reached down and there was only 1-2 mm of play. From what I understand there should be 25 mm?
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