Is Anyone Here A Fan Of 'Hard Engine Break-In' Procedure?

[HawkTwoFifty]

I recently purchased a new Hawk 250 and while researching new engine break-in procedures online, I came across some very interesting info regarding proper engine break-in procedures. The new info that I discovered totally goes against the grain of typical and commonly known break-in procedure recommended for new engines. The info that I have been reading is quite convincing and extremely interesting. But I am still undecided on which procedure to use to break-in my new Hawk 250 engine.

While it seems safe and sensible to do an easy break-in on a new engine, there seems to be some good supporting evidence online that suggest an easy break-in doesnt allow the piston rings to properly seal to the cylinder wall. It is said that a hard engine break-in properly allows the rings to seat to the cylinder wall resulting in a more powerful and reliable engine.

So this makes sense to me so far, but I cannot help but wonder if a hard break-in jeopardizes other engine components or operation. I certainly am hoping that a hard break-in is safe because I do desire a more powerful and reliable engine (if the info is true) , but am still researching the topic for answers. I am so desperate to find answers on this topic that I havent ridden my new Hawk all weekend. I had planned to ride my bike a good amount this weekend but have been too intrigued by this topic to ride it as I need to figure out the best break-in method.

Does anyone have any info, links, or personal experience on these two break-in procedures that may help me decide? I must find this answer to this topic before I can ride my bike again. I have only one chance to properly break-in my engine and am hoping that a hard break-in procedure is the proper way to go because the rewards claimed are very desirable if so. But I cannot decide 100% Any help would be so very appreciated. Thanks!!!!!!!

[bogieboy]

I am a big fan of hard break in..... sid it on my DB07a when i put a new piston in back when i got it, and its been pushing 165psi compression ever since..... no issues either....

[Megadan]

Yep, covered it in my own bikes thread in detail as to how I do mine.

[bogieboy]

Also, think abiut what high performance engine builders typically do.... build the wngine and then throw it right on a dyno before its ever put in a car or bike, and push it to its LIMITS..... that to me is what made up my mind how to break in new rings....

[HawkTwoFifty]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Yep, covered it in my own bikes thread in detail as to how I do mine.

Thanks Megadan, can you please tell me where I may find that thread? Thanks!

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by HawkTwoFifty

Thanks Megadan, can you please tell me where I may find that thread? Thanks!

I actually cant find it there. I know I posted it somewhere...

Anyway, my methodology can be broken down into something simple.

Before cranking that engine hard you want to give the engine at least 2 or 3 full heat cycles. That means idle it or ride it gently for a few short miles and then let it cool fully. After that, chanhe the oil, check valve lash

Next,
I ride it around gently until the motor is up to temp and then take it out for a good 5 or 10 minutes, giving it progressively more throttle, up shifting and downshifting often. Lots of engine braking and accel loading. At this point i never go to redline or go wide open.

Park it, let it cool completely. I changed the oil, but you dont have to if uou dont want to. After it has cooled back down, I take it out again and ride it normal until its up to temp and for 10 to 15 minutes I progressively give it more and more throttle and wind out, finishing with a couple of full throttle high rpm runs through the gears followed by a downshifting decel through each gear, cruise for a minute or two to let the engine temps come down, then repeat the same thing a.couple more times. After that I shut it down, let it cool, change the oil, and check the valve lash.

After all of that I ride it business as usual. They key to a hard break in is to help seat the rings and initiate the
connecting rod to stretch. Doing this early will prevent ridge buildup from causing the main compression ring from loosing its seal on a ridge later when the rod stretches later on in life.

It is important to be methodical, check things often, let the engine cool, and keep an eye on every detail. This is a real hard break in. Just going out and wailing on the motor with no regard is just abuse.

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by HawkTwoFifty

I recently purchased a new Hawk 250 and while researching new engine break-in procedures online, I came across some very interesting info regarding proper engine break-in procedures. The new info that I discovered totally goes against the grain of typical and commonly known break-in procedure recommended for new engines. The info that I have been reading is quite convincing and extremely interesting. But I am still undecided on which procedure to use to break-in my new Hawk 250 engine.

While it seems safe and sensible to do an easy break-in on a new engine, there seems to be some good supporting evidence online that suggest an easy break-in doesnt allow the piston rings to properly seal to the cylinder wall. It is said that a hard engine break-in properly allows the rings to seat to the cylinder wall resulting in a more powerful and reliable engine.

So this makes sense to me so far, but I cannot help but wonder if a hard break-in jeopardizes other engine components or operation. I certainly am hoping that a hard break-in is safe because I do desire a more powerful and reliable engine (if the info is true) , but am still researching the topic for answers. I am so desperate to find answers on this topic that I havent ridden my new Hawk all weekend. I had planned to ride my bike a good amount this weekend but have been too intrigued by this topic to ride it as I need to figure out the best break-in method.

Does anyone have any info, links, or personal experience on these two break-in procedures that may help me decide? I must find this answer to this topic before I can ride my bike again. I have only one chance to properly break-in my engine and am hoping that a hard break-in procedure is the proper way to go because the rewards claimed are very desirable if so. But I cannot decide 100% Any help would be so very appreciated. Thanks!!!!!!!

Post a link to the "hard break in " as I'm gonna soon break my cg200 topend in. I've read so many different procedures. I decided to go with Duncan racing's method but would like to hear this one. Thx

[Ironmike]

Sorry just seen your procedure

[timcosby]

corvettes suggest varying the rpms not staying at one rpm for sustained periods

[JerryHawk250]

I pretty much followed this same procedure except for the numerous oil changes. The main thing is running it through a few heat cycles as Megadan stated.

Originally Posted by Megadan

I actually cant find it there. I know I posted it somewhere...

Anyway, my methodology can be broken down into something simple.

Before cranking that engine hard you want to give the engine at least 2 or 3 full heat cycles. That means idle it or ride it gently for a few short miles and then let it cool fully. After that, chanhe the oil, check valve lash

Next,
I ride it around gently until the motor is up to temp and then take it out for a good 5 or 10 minutes, giving it progressively more throttle, up shifting and downshifting often. Lots of engine braking and accel loading. At this point i never go to redline or go wide open.

Park it, let it cool completely. I changed the oil, but you dont have to if uou dont want to. After it has cooled back down, I take it out again and ride it normal until its up to temp and for 10 to 15 minutes I progressively give it more and more throttle and wind out, finishing with a couple of full throttle high rpm runs through the gears followed by a downshifting decel through each gear, cruise for a minute or two to let the engine temps come down, then repeat the same thing a.couple more times. After that I shut it down, let it cool, change the oil, and check the valve lash.

After all of that I ride it business as usual. They key to a hard break in is to help seat the rings and initiate the
connecting rod to stretch. Doing this early will prevent ridge buildup from causing the main compression ring from loosing its seal on a ridge later when the rod stretches later on in life.

It is important to be methodical, check things often, let the engine cool, and keep an eye on every detail. This is a real hard break in. Just going out and wailing on the motor with no regard is just abuse.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

I pretty much followed this same procedure except for the numerous oil changes. The main thing is running it through a few heat cycles as Megadan stated.

Yeah, and the oil changes don't have to be done as frequently as I did them. I am just...paranoid.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Yeah, and the oil changes don't have to be done as frequently as I did them. I am just...paranoid.

I just recycled over 25 gal of oil over the weekend . Between 2 vehicles a motorcycle and a couple o lawnmowers. Lots of oil used in this country if your like me. I change mine every 5k. The mc when it gets black..about 1000 miles or so.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

I just recycled over 25 gal of oil over the weekend . Between 2 vehicles a motorcycle and a couple o lawnmowers. Lots of oil used in this country if your like me. I change mine every 5k. The mc when it gets black..about 1000 miles or so.

Lol, I have about 12 5 quart jugs to bring for recycle. My truck alone take 7 quarts.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Lol, I have about 12 5 quart jugs to bring for recycle. My truck alone take 7 quarts.

I have a 15 gal keg so it tends to just fill and fill. At least i don't just dump it off the overpass . Everything will be electric by the time we get to be old

[Megadan]

So what does my 7 5 gallon buckets say about me...