Snapped Rear Rack Bolt

2LZ · 04-24-2020, 12:23 PM

Ok gang, my neighbor, who I sold the white RX3 to, decided he wanted to paint the rear grab bar/trunk mount. In the process, he snapped the long center mounting bolt.

I know, I know....how?...you may ask. Let me just say he's a great guy, an awesome father, well-meaning, is a great cook, and has a huge heart....but has a tendency to be "a bull in the china shop of life". I think the only pair of bars he hasn't gone over is a rototiller....but give him time. You get the idea.

That said, has anyone else done this? There is nothing sticking out. It's actually recessed. He wants me to drill it and use an easy-out but my record with this process is lackluster, at best. If I'm lucky enough to drill a perfect hole (without hitting the threads) in a hardened bolt, the easy-out usually snaps, compounding the problem.

Anyone else done this? Can it be drilled completely through and nut and bolted? I guess I'll have to completely disassemble the rear and see where that hole goes to.

Any RX3 expertise is greatly appreciated.

Rocket tests · 04-24-2020, 02:47 PM

Do you own a welder?
Lay a nut over the flush broken stud and fill it with weld. They come out fairly easy when still hot.

2LZ · 04-24-2020, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocket tests

Do you own a welder?
Lay a nut over the flush broken stud and fill it with weld. They come out fairly easy when still hot.

Yes, and I like this idea much better!

Working_ZS · 04-24-2020, 08:18 PM

If the bolt is recessed like you say, you probably won't be able to get any fusion with stick or MIG welding a nut. It might be necessary to use TIG welding to build up the end of the broken bolt until it is proud of the surface, then weld a nut onto that built up section or just grab it with a pair of locking pliers. With TIG welding, you'll be able to very precisely control the arc and where you deposit filler metal, so you'll be less likely to mar the rack or weld the nut to it.

I went through this on a Dodge caravan that some previous mechanic attempted to replace the water pump on, but snapped off one of the 6mm x 20mm bolts. It was sitting below the suface of the aluminum timing cover/water pump housing and I had to build it up with my TIG welder, in order to grasp it with a pair of ViseGrips and thread it out. This took four or five attempts before I got good fusion with the bolt, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't work the first couple of tries.

calvarez · 04-25-2020, 12:12 PM

Hardened? Most of the stuff on this bike is Chinesium and soft.

Start with a center punch, and dimple the heck out of the bolt. So you guarantee the drill bit won't walk. Then drill with a small bit. Follow up with the right bit for the extractor. Use cutting lube during this process, I very highly recommend Tap Magic. It really is magic.

2LZ · 04-26-2020, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calvarez

Hardened? Most of the stuff on this bike is Chinesium and soft.

Good point. How silly of me.... ;-)

Update: Well, I finally got a chance to check it out. The neighbor started drilling a hole....and proceeded to spin it down to bottom. Let the fun begin.....

**JerryHawk250** · 04-26-2020, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

Good point. How silly of me.... ;-)

Update: Well, I finally got a chance to check it out. The neighbor started drilling a hole....and proceeded to spin it down to bottom. Let the fun begin.....

That's where a left hand drill bit comes in handy.

Rocket tests · 04-26-2020, 02:27 PM

Sounds like you need to let the neighbor finish the job.

Weldangrind · 04-27-2020, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

That's where a left hand drill bit comes in handy.

Exactly what I was thinking.

2LZ · 04-28-2020, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Exactly what I was thinking.

Of course. the one set of drill bits I don't have.....

rjmorel · 04-28-2020, 07:29 PM

Just take a regular drill bit and sharpen it backwards so you can run it in reverse and maybe it will grab and unscrew it out. I've done that a few times.

2LZ · 04-29-2020, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Just take a regular drill bit and sharpen it backwards so you can run it in reverse and maybe it will grab and unscrew it out. I've done that a few times.

I shall give that a shot! if he wasn't one of my dearest friends.....etc....etc..... you know....

04-24-2020, 12:23 PM	#1
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,065	Snapped Rear Rack Bolt Ok gang, my neighbor, who I sold the white RX3 to, decided he wanted to paint the rear grab bar/trunk mount. In the process, he snapped the long center mounting bolt. I know, I know....how?...you may ask. Let me just say he's a great guy, an awesome father, well-meaning, is a great cook, and has a huge heart....but has a tendency to be "a bull in the china shop of life". I think the only pair of bars he hasn't gone over is a rototiller....but give him time. You get the idea. That said, has anyone else done this? There is nothing sticking out. It's actually recessed. He wants me to drill it and use an easy-out but my record with this process is lackluster, at best. If I'm lucky enough to drill a perfect hole (without hitting the threads) in a hardened bolt, the easy-out usually snaps, compounding the problem. Anyone else done this? Can it be drilled completely through and nut and bolted? I guess I'll have to completely disassemble the rear and see where that hole goes to. Any RX3 expertise is greatly appreciated. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	1

04-24-2020, 08:18 PM	#4
Working_ZS Join Date: Aug 2016 Posts: 365	Sounds Like A Job For TIG Welding If the bolt is recessed like you say, you probably won't be able to get any fusion with stick or MIG welding a nut. It might be necessary to use TIG welding to build up the end of the broken bolt until it is proud of the surface, then weld a nut onto that built up section or just grab it with a pair of locking pliers. With TIG welding, you'll be able to very precisely control the arc and where you deposit filler metal, so you'll be less likely to mar the rack or weld the nut to it. I went through this on a Dodge caravan that some previous mechanic attempted to replace the water pump on, but snapped off one of the 6mm x 20mm bolts. It was sitting below the suface of the aluminum timing cover/water pump housing and I had to build it up with my TIG welder, in order to grasp it with a pair of ViseGrips and thread it out. This took four or five attempts before I got good fusion with the bolt, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't work the first couple of tries.
	3

04-25-2020, 12:12 PM	#5
calvarez Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 334	Hardened? Most of the stuff on this bike is Chinesium and soft. Start with a center punch, and dimple the heck out of the bolt. So you guarantee the drill bit won't walk. Then drill with a small bit. Follow up with the right bit for the extractor. Use cutting lube during this process, I very highly recommend Tap Magic. It really is magic. __________________ 2016 RX3 2002 Honda CBR1100XX
	0

04-28-2020, 07:29 PM	#11
rjmorel Join Date: May 2007 Location: Warshington Posts: 928	Just take a regular drill bit and sharpen it backwards so you can run it in reverse and maybe it will grab and unscrew it out. I've done that a few times. __________________ Live Zong, and Prosper
	1

04-24-2020, 02:47 PM	#2
Rocket tests Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 87	Do you own a welder? Lay a nut over the flush broken stud and fill it with weld. They come out fairly easy when still hot.
	3

04-26-2020, 02:27 PM	#8
Rocket tests Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 87	Sounds like you need to let the neighbor finish the job.
	2