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Old 03-20-2017, 10:04 PM   #1
jet321   jet321 is offline
 
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RIP wheel bearing

Finally got the bike running right today and took it for a ride, the rear wheel was wobbling and I stopped thinking the rim was bent. The rear bearing basically disintegrated.



I saw SeerAtlas's thread and read another with Pete, and concluded that you just have to pop out the old one and order what the 4-digit number and 1RS/2RS designation said, then swap them. Is that right? I took mine out, after a little bit of torch work, and it reads 6302 2RS and on the bottom it says CXCL. What do you guys suggest? What else should I do besides put in the new bearing? Thanks.
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:03 PM   #2
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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New bearings for me must be... "Made in Japan"... and I always pop the seals before installing them to make sure enough grease is packed in them from the factory... then I enjoy many years/miles of trouble free driving/riding
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:11 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
New bearings for me must be... "Made in Japan".
CXCL is 10000% rubbish. CXCL http://www.cxcl-bearing.com/aboutus/...tentId=10.html = Tech support by KOTO (some doggy paper co. http://www.searchtmr.com/details?trq...22f08&hl=en_US)
Product from http://www.cugroup.com/ is good enough for that job. 1 of the OKish chinese brand...
===
I prefer a Swedish brand that started w/ S http://www.skf.com/binary/92-179206/...ls_6270-EN.pdf
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:33 AM   #4
pete   pete is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Azhule View Post
New bearings for me must be... "Made in Japan"... and I always pop the seals before installing them to make sure enough grease is packed in them from the factory... then I enjoy many years/miles of trouble free driving/riding
I always go for made in Germany "FAG bearings"..
I never put more grease in the bearing as I want it to last...
not have to much drag from the grease making to balls/rollers
skid around the races instead of rolling...
How meany tests & $ went into working out how much grease should be in a bearing..




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Last edited by pete; 03-21-2017 at 02:15 AM.
 
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Old 03-21-2017, 02:57 AM   #5
hertz9753   hertz9753 is offline
 
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Everybody knows that Sweden in the drop shipping point for Santa Claus.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:26 AM   #6
chuck   chuck is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
Finally got the bike running right today and took it for a ride, the rear wheel was wobbling and I stopped thinking the rim was bent. The rear bearing basically disintegrated.



I saw SeerAtlas's thread and read another with Pete, and concluded that you just have to pop out the old one and order what the 4-digit number and 1RS/2RS designation said, then swap them. Is that right? I took mine out, after a little bit of torch work, and it reads 6302 2RS and on the bottom it says CXCL. What do you guys suggest? What else should I do besides put in the new bearing? Thanks.
Bone dry bearings from the factory?


 
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:08 AM   #7
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Originally Posted by pete View Post
I always go for made in Germany "FAG bearings"..
I never put more grease in the bearing as I want it to last...
not have to much drag from the grease making to balls/rollers
skid around the races instead of rolling...
How meany tests & $ went into working out how much grease should be in a bearing..




...
You guys crack me up

I've seen all kinds of bearings... "FAG" and "SKF" bearings included... be delivered with barely any (read... almost NO) grease inside the thing... reason I pop the seals and check/clean/repack with the proper amount of grease... I also like to use a "Marine" grade grease on my motos...

But hey... "to each their own" right?
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:12 AM   #8
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
Finally got the bike running right today and took it for a ride, the rear wheel was wobbling and I stopped thinking the rim was bent. The rear bearing basically disintegrated.



I saw SeerAtlas's thread and read another with Pete, and concluded that you just have to pop out the old one and order what the 4-digit number and 1RS/2RS designation said, then swap them. Is that right? I took mine out, after a little bit of torch work, and it reads 6302 2RS and on the bottom it says CXCL. What do you guys suggest? What else should I do besides put in the new bearing? Thanks.
I think CXCL is the maker. I would buy an American, Japanese, Swedish, or German replacement bearing. Bearing supply houses carry these in stock. Buying online it is difficult to be sure where the actual bearing is made. Chinese grease is not very good. Someday it will be, but not yet....ARH


 
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:51 AM   #9
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Jet, those seen lots of water? Deep streams or pressure washing?
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:04 AM   #10
jet321   jet321 is offline
 
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Jet, those seen lots of water? Deep streams or pressure washing?
You know, I have no idea, in my ownership..no, but I did almost get stuck in what I thought was a dry lake bed, so mud..clay....water, but that was once. That's the only time she's really seen elements besides some trails and road riding... Now the last owner, that's a different story. He was from what I could tell, very negligent with her, considering all the things I've had to change and fix on the hawk.

Do you guys think I should replace the front wheel bearings too? I mean this little incident has me worried considering the bike only has about 4k miles. I would just hate to be taken out by a chinese bearing ha ha

SKF??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-6302-2RS...gAAOSwoudW9Jrj
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:15 AM   #11
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
You know, I have no idea, in my ownership..no, but I did almost get stuck in what I thought was a dry lake bed, so mud..clay....water, but that was once. That's the only time she's really seen elements besides some trails and road riding... Now the last owner, that's a different story. He was from what I could tell, very negligent with her, considering all the things I've had to change and fix on the hawk.

Do you guys think I should replace the front wheel bearings too? I mean this little incident has me worried considering the bike only has about 4k miles. I would just hate to be taken out by a chinese bearing ha ha

SKF??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-6302-2RS...gAAOSwoudW9Jrj
I hadn't realized that you bought it used. It's been a while since I've read your thread. Since bearings are cheap and it has a "mystery history", I'd change both front and rear, just because.... Easy enough to do.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:49 AM   #12
jet321   jet321 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
I hadn't realized that you bought it used. It's been a while since I've read your thread. Since bearings are cheap and it has a "mystery history", I'd change both front and rear, just because.... Easy enough to do.
I bought it second hand, I got a great deal on it despite issues it had. I paid only $750 for it and then put almost that much in upgrades into it. I'll probably do front and back then, I mean it looks like it will be only $30 to do.

So just SKF or FAG brand?
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:58 AM   #13
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
So just SKF or FAG brand?
Either would be fine. I've used others with no problems.
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:05 PM   #14
jet321   jet321 is offline
 
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Either would be fine. I've used others with no problems.
I watched some videos on how to install them, do you guys recommend a press tool? I need to grease the outside/inside the bearing (not the ball bearings), but what about the spacer or axle?

Thanks for all the replys
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:21 PM   #15
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
I watched some videos on how to install them, do you guys recommend a press tool? I need to grease the outside/inside the bearing (not the ball bearings), but what about the spacer or axle?

Thanks for all the replys
I usually just knock them out with a drift thru the hub. If you don't have a bearing installer tool, find a socket about the right size as the outer race and knock them in carefully and flat.
Grease the axle and other parts. It help keep water out and will make removal much easier next time.
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