TT250 clutch cable options

[Sullybiker]

I loosened the clutch cable and reset the adjustment from scratch on Sunday, which involved a few turns on the very generous adjuster on the engine case. My spare cable also arrived but I'm going to leave it a while as I think I just need to get used to it.

It was a little better this morning, almost back to normal, but has others have said it appears the clutch favours a particularly tight adjustment.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sullybiker

I had Valvoline 10W40 dino oil in it for the last 500 miles, I had a spare couple of quarts left over from my Kawi break-in. It's wet clutch approved.

I changed it to Rotella T 15W40 (non-synthetic) just to see if it made any difference but it was much the same once the bike was up to temp.

Rain here for the next two days, next job is to re-rig the clutch cable to normal spec (It's adjusted only at the perch at the moment) and tighten the chain which has slackened a lot since install. I've known inertia from a slack chain do funny things to shifting before, perhaps it will yield a result.

I would change out that rear chain as soon as possible. On Hawks, people on here have had very good results with UniBear chain. It is prestretched, and each pin is peened on four sides....ARH

[Sullybiker]

Trying Rotella synthetic 15w40 on my commute tomorrow as this may help with the higher temperatures. I do think this is all about heat, and the engine's not running particularly hot, I just think the clutch has an inherently short throw and I want the bike happy for when the temperature starts touching 90 here.

[dpl096]

I hope this is your fix.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sullybiker

Having ridden back from work I think newer cable may help, but I seem to have the same bike a lot of people talk about now; I have to blip the throttle slightly to pop the bike into neutral, which isn't awful.

Replacement plates are cheap, even the whole assembly is quite reasonable, perhaps I should just see if a fresh cable helps, it's not like they're expensive. I can probably live with it as it is, but it was much nicer before. I hate holding the bike in gear and normally compulsively drop into neutral if I have to wait more than a couple of seconds.

I need to get the driver for the nut on the oil cleaner before being able to take anything apart (and a replacement gasket) but I'm increasingly curious about the condition of the parts. Nothing should be worn at 1000 miles of street riding, but it's always possible something's started to go prematurely.

What I suggest doing is pulling the clutch cover off (right side of machine), pulling the spark plug, and watching the clutch spin (on the electric starter), both with the clutch "locked up" and released. Make sure that the spring end of the clutch in both tests rotates evenly (without wobble). If it wobbles with the clutch lever pulled back to the handlebar, that is probably your problem. Adjust the clutch springs until the wobble goes away. Clutch adjustment at the cable end should be 1/8 inch at the operating lever. Then adjust at the handlebars. The handle bar adjustment is to rectify cable stretch. The adjustment down on the crank case is for clutch plate wear....ARH

[Sullybiker]

I went out for a pretty long ride yesterday, with a lot of twisty roads and a muddy trail thrown in. It's certainly improved a little, it's similar to how it was before.

The cable definitely does loosen up a bit when it's hot but as long as I can shift (it's absolutely fine) and the bike doesn't creep I think I can live with it. I think it's just a characteristic of the bike.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sullybiker

I went out for a pretty long ride yesterday, with a lot of twisty roads and a muddy trail thrown in. It's certainly improved a little, it's similar to how it was before.

The cable definitely does loosen up a bit when it's hot but as long as I can shift (it's absolutely fine) and the bike doesn't creep I think I can live with it. I think it's just a characteristic of the bike.

Doesn't creep? I thought you were the guy who shifted to nuetral every time he stopped. Did I get that wrong? Because the number 2 reason for clutch drag is leaving in gear while stopped for more than a few seconds....ARH

[Sullybiker]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Doesn't creep? I thought you were the guy who shifted to nuetral every time he stopped. Did I get that wrong? Because the number 2 reason for clutch drag is leaving in gear while stopped for more than a few seconds....ARH

No, it's me. I mean there's no drive at all with the clutch pulled in gear, the kind that would be irritating at stop signs or on a trail at low speed.

I never leave the bike in gear unless I have to have my foot down for more than a couple of seconds.