TT250/Hawk aftermarket clutch parts?

[KingPrimusIII]

Thanks for starting this thread, Sully. I thought it was just me! I'll be watching/will share any info I find.

[jimwildman]

From;

http://www.kazumapower.com/cg250-ver...e-p-11501.html

This engine uses HONDA style clutch discs and we stock/ship a high performance clutch fiber disc kit by CLUTCH FACTORY.

there is hope!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by jimwildman

From;

http://www.kazumapower.com/cg250-ver...e-p-11501.html

This engine uses HONDA style clutch discs and we stock/ship a high performance clutch fiber disc kit by CLUTCH FACTORY.

there is hope!

YES! If they have after market clutch plates (fiber discs), they should also have higher quality clutch springs as well....ARH

[jimwildman]

I'm hoping to find more info about "HONDA style clutch" for a full swap.

All the XR clutches Iv'e seen have a 4 spring basket, so It's a bit confusing as to what Honda.

[Sullybiker]

Originally Posted by jimwildman

I'm hoping to find more info about "HONDA style clutch" for a full swap.

All the XR clutches Iv'e seen have a 4 spring basket, so It's a bit confusing as to what Honda.

They're KG kits (AKA 'Clutch Factory') by the sound of it; if you look at parts they mention that they're 5 plate but that they will ship an extra plate for the '250' class engines.

[jimwildman]

EBC Products..

http://www.whygostock.com/clutch-for...c-200cc-250cc/
http://www.whygostock.com/clutch-spr...chinese-motor/

Only 4 springs though,, so again Im confused.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by jimwildman

EBC Products..

http://www.whygostock.com/clutch-for...c-200cc-250cc/
http://www.whygostock.com/clutch-spr...chinese-motor/

Only 4 springs though,, so again Im confused.

Whether it has 6 springs or four springs doesn't really matter. What matters is if the clutch plates fit the basket, and that your current steel plates are not warped....ARH

[Sullybiker]

Some dimensions at least, that's useful. It looks like it's just the fibre plates and not the steels? Am I reading correctly?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Sullybiker

Some dimensions at least, that's useful. It looks like it's just the fibre plates and not the steels? Am I reading correctly?

Yes, you are. If you have warped steel discs, you'll have to replace them....ARH

[jimwildman]

Originally Posted by Sullybiker

Some dimensions at least, that's useful. It looks like it's just the fibre plates and not the steels? Am I reading correctly?

If you use the search and put in steels a few come up but not anything specific to our bikes.. I may send an email and ask..

I was hoping to find clutch disks, steels and springs to replace the originals.

So I have questions on the spring packs too since ours have 6, this and most Honda's use 4. I would guess the springs in a set of 4 are stronger than in set of 6.

so even if they fit ordering 2 packs and using 6 of the springs would likely make the clutch too stiff.

Ill send an email and see what kind of response I get.

[pete]

Originally Posted by jimwildman

so even if they fit ordering 2 packs and using 6 of the springs would likely make the clutch too stiff.

Google ..... Moose racing Clutch easy pull....

there are cheaper ones on alliexspress ===> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-...AbTest=ae803_1

[crackerjac]

Sorry this might be a bit off topic but I'm reassembling my stock Zong 250 clutch and was wondering why the top two fiction plates are in the short slots while the rest are in the long slots? Any benefit to this or is it better to put them all in the long slots like most other bikes? Stock clutch photo below.

[Its_not_a_honda]

Originally Posted by crackerjac

Sorry this might be a bit off topic but I'm reassembling my stock Zong 250 clutch and was wondering why the top two fiction plates are in the short slots while the rest are in the long slots? Any benefit to this or is it better to put them all in the long slots like most other bikes? Stock clutch photo below.

Did you ever find out?

[Megadan]

I honestly doubt it would make a difference where those tabs are. As long as they are free to move and don't get stuck or bind on anything, the stack pressure will stay even.

They may have done that setup to reduce chatter, or maybe as a way to help with clutch operation when things expand. Or both, or neither.

[Its_not_a_honda]

Originally Posted by Megadan

I honestly doubt it would make a difference where those tabs are. As long as they are free to move and don't get stuck or bind on anything, the stack pressure will stay even.

They may have done that setup to reduce chatter, or maybe as a way to help with clutch operation when things expand. Or both, or neither.

I was just wondering. Thanks for the info MD!

I think I might have a clutch problem. Apollo DB36. No mods yet other than a 12 tooth sprocket. I have ridden dirt bikes most of my life at one time or another. I have no problem tearing into the gear box. I am very mechanical so I actually look forward to working on my bike.

When I really get on it from a slow speed, it goes but I feel like it should have more instant gumption. Like pull the front wheel kind of gumption. I have went down from a 14 to a 12 tooth front sprocket. I have ordered but not installed a carb with an accelerator pump. The bike does great on trails and has great power for what it is. I just have always done wheelies on any bike Ive ridden. I mean "stand it up and ride it on the back wheel" wheelies. Not pull it up for a few inches for 5 feet. This bike has that power but it does not get to the back wheel. I thought it was the gearing but the 12 tooth didn't do it. I have tried it on the pavement too. Nothing but go forward. It is like a linear feeling power. Almost like a torque converter type feel. On the trails I have never needed any more power going up hills or through anything. BUT when I come to a fallen tree, a rock, stump, or ditch where I need the front wheel up to get across, nothing happens. I just have to run into it and hope for the best. lol

I have checked the rear wheel for slipping on the tire It is locked tight to the rim. I figure it has got to be the clutch at low rpms just not grabbing. I do not feel any chatter. I am running T4 oil. I change it after every 2 rides. Cable adjusted properly. Bike was delivered in January 2018 so it is pretty new. I would not say it is completely broken in but well on its way. I am kind of hoping it is just the clutch assembled wrong or something along those lines. Anyone else having this problem? Any ideas?