One more noob buying a Rhino - Best Deal?

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

on the right side hand brake control .. there is a brake switch there... when you have either the left or right hand brakes applied the rear brake light will come on... it looks like you have no rear brake( as you have brake controller on the left side ) if the tail light works.. then it will come on... safety device.. the front wheel being sticky could be because the front brake cable is tight.. appling the brake ... or the nut is loose... sometimes when you assemble it the brakes are applied abit...the shoes catch the drum and drag.. check it out... it is good that you checked everything over.. make sure the chain is adjusted right... see how to adjust chain in the threads in the ATV section.. have fun

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

forgot the 250 was a standard transmission.... yes you have a foot brake... check and see if it needs afjustment so it only applys the brake light power when you step on it..... apply a big gob of silicone on the plastic threads to hold it in the proper setting ... put it on th e thread area and the lock nut'

[uphill]

Done and home all in one piece last night, so I grabbed a pic today (photographic evidence - ask Swampy). In such a hurry to get it loaded up, I left a bunch of stuff including my two front wheel castle nut caps, as you can see. Couldn't seem to get the very edge bolt holes to line up on the foot rests, so those are still out at this time. I guess I could drill some more room out, but they're not going anywhere! We found the issue with the left front wheel was just that the brake was slightly skew, not quite seated straight... wheeew....

I think I might end up being thankful that Darth advised me to hold off on the sprocket mod until after riding. It feels good for around here, and with the little demand we'll put on it, it might offer more flexibility to just do more in first, being higher geared. I'll know for sure when we get the trailer and start pulling firewood. Sounds like Paul2 is putting way more on it (as far as hard rides / climbing) than I ever will and rolling with stock gears.

I might want that carb upgrade if it's always going to be sooooo cold blooded starting! Maybe just not used to it, proper choke etc. Does it get better with break in?

[Darth Racer]

I covered the foot well issue in my thread... study those pics carefully. The first two especially.

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....6&postcount=57

[Darth Racer]

When you turn the key on do the headlights work?

[david3921]

Check the fuse at the positive battery connection. It's a glass type in the white case.

[uphill]

Crazy. I checked the fuse earlier, but as soon as I posted, I thought I should probably check it again. YEP, that's it. I was just assuming it couldn't be b/c I wasn't even going anywhere, but I found out what blew it. It WAS the back brake electrical contact. the contact housing itself is busted, so it would be hanging loose or off, causing it to arc--bye-bye fuse.

Unfortunately I realized it after it blew the spare fuse. Gorilla taped the housing, picking up more fuses tomorrow, then see if I can actually get some fun in on this puppy

[Azhule]

Originally Posted by uphill

Crazy. I checked the fuse earlier, but as soon as I posted, I thought I should probably check it again. YEP, that's it. I was just assuming it couldn't be b/c I wasn't even going anywhere, but I found out what blew it. It WAS the back brake electrical contact. the contact housing itself is busted, so it would be hanging loose or off, causing it to arc--bye-bye fuse.

Unfortunately I realized it after it blew the spare fuse. Gorilla taped the housing, picking up more fuses tomorrow, then see if I can actually get some fun in on this puppy

Time to upgrade to a ATC style automotive fuse... for most applications I like to use Bussmann CB222 Type II fuse in whatever amps you need

No more replacing fuses when it trips and kills the engine/electrics for whatever dumb reason... just turn the key OFF (fuse is "reset", electrics "work" again), then find the problem that caused it to trip, fix the issue, turn key to ON and start the engine... life is so much better with a "circuit breaker fuse"

[david3921]

Originally Posted by Azhule

Time to upgrade to a ATC style automotive fuse... for most applications I like to use Bussmann CB222 Type II fuse in whatever amps you need

No more replacing fuses when it trips and kills the engine/electrics for whatever dumb reason... just turn the key OFF (fuse is "reset", electrics "work" again), then find the problem that caused it to trip, fix the issue, turn key to ON and start the engine... life is so much better with a "circuit breaker fuse"

I don't think that I've seen these before. A bit pricey but the idea sounds great. Where are these normally used?

[Adjuster]

Curious about the resettable fuse. What kind of indicator does it have to let you know its tripped? How does it let you know?



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[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

It does not have a indicator.. just a trip click sound.. and no power... I think if you want t o spend more money you can get the ones that do have a reset switch... $$$ they will trip if there is a short ( like the broken brake switch or a broken tail light ) .. either way ... carry some fuses ( 10-15 amp ) or switch over to the blade kind... Harbour Freight or Napa or other parts places...

[mboss13]

Hi guys, I am too looking to pull a trigger on a rhino. I want to use it a couple times for ice fishing mainly when the ice isn't thick enough to drive a truck on it yet. Will it be strong enough to pull a sled behind? Also, am looking to buy from Upzy over their black friday deal, or are there any better deals out there?

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

O would say it would have enough power for the shack... the main thing is if there was too much snow for traction... but with good runners and on ice... no problem..

[uphill]

Hey mboss, welcome! I was going to post an update on the dealer aspect of my recent buy on the Rhino. I give Texas Powersports 5 STARS all the way. It was lowest price I could find $1229 delivered, and I'm always extra cautious when it's the lowest $. Sometimes you get the lowest in other areas when that is the case. But with TXP, I'm glad to say it's all good. Their communication was almost instant by email, spoke on the phone to check what colors they had, and I only had one part break (not sure when it happened, in shipping or later). They asked for a picture, and sent it out with the bill of sale info SAME DAY! The bike itself came earlier than the 7 day UPS free delivery standard stated on the site. If you read this whole thread, you'll see any of my problems were just learning curve, being my first quad.

As far as ice fishing, I can't speak from experience, but you can find videos of guys plowing snow in slick conditions, so my guess is no problem. FLASLIGHTBOY definitely knows these machines. I would add... get some chains for the rear tires... extra grip might be needed. As an old trucker once told me, "I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it."

I'll chime in with anything that might be of help to you. All the best!

EDIT: I guess I started typing just before Darth posted. YEP, chains. Also, the snow plowing vids I've seen are almost all the smaller quads, so they can take a beating.

[Darth Racer]

Chains for the tires would probably be best.... yeah I pull about 300-400 pounds with my Rhino.. in and out of the creek banks. A sled would be nothing and sounds like mostly a flat surface.

Any price close to $1200 dollars is good.. I strongly suggest calling the dealer before ordering.