Vitacci Clash 200 EFI Scooter

[Mudflap]

Pictures here:

https://www.vitacci.com/scooters/clash-200-efi

Well it's not actually 200cc, it has a Lifan 168cc, fuel injected version of a GY6 engine. The scooter itself is a clone of the Honda Click 150 which I don't believe was imported to the US.
I have one of these on order from Amazon and will post a review in a couple weeks.


Here are the published specs:
Model CLASH 200
Displacement 168cc
Ignition EFI
Engine Type LF161QMK
Maxi Speed 68 MPH
Fuel Tank 4.8L
Tire Size 80/90-14；90/90-14
Brake F: Disc / R ：Drum
L*W*H（Inches） 81.4*28.7*44.4
Wheel Base(Inches） 52.3
Bore 61mm
Stroke 57.6mm
Battery Type 12V7A
Lights LED
Speedometer Digital
Maxi Power 6.8 (kw/8000min)*
Maxi Torque 9.6 (N.m/5500min)
Idle 1600±100
Compress Ratio 9.2：1
Weight (LBS) 232
Running Weight(LBS) 331

*Note the 6.8 kw max power is probably wrong because that is the published power of the 125cc carb version of that engine.

[Boatguy]

What is the running weight?

I probably should know that, but I have no idea why it’s 100 pounds more than the weight.

[wheelbender6]

They call it a “200” if it is any bigger than a 150cc these days.
“It is the Way”

Genuine scooter company is the only exception that I know of.
For some strange reason, they refer to their 168cc Buddy and Hooligan
As “170s”.

[Mudflap]

What is the running weight?

I probably should know that, but I have no idea why it’s 100 pounds more than the weight.


Maybe running weight means shipping weight?

[Clash200EFI]

I also ordered one. Hoping it does not have stalling issues like the Spark 150. I've read that there's an automatic choke that causes flooding even when at temp. Also, one Spark 150 rider had to turn out screw 3.5 turns for sea level because it was running so rich. Please post any steps here from unboxing to tuned for road and issues, solutions. I'll do same

[Mudflap]

I was originally looking at the Spark 150 and read about the carb issues. That would be easy enough for me to remedy but then I discovered the EFI Clash which is basically the same but with EFI and a bit more power and a Lifan engine. I wanted a flat floor, large diameter wheels, a 150cc GY6 engine for easy parts availability. Good to have someone to share tips with.


BTW they shipped UPS and the stated shipping weight is 311 lbs. 331 lbs is a common load capacity for smallish bikes so that's probably what is meant by "running weight."

[olds_cool63]

Who actually manufacturers their scooters and motorcycles?

[Mudflap]

Sometimes the manufacturer will be listed on the VIN plate but it may just say Vitacci. Judging by their rather large line of vehicles it's likely Vitacci buys complete vehicles from many manufacturers and puts their name on them. In the case of the Clash the engine number indicates it is a Lifan but the rest of the scooter may well be made by another manufacturer.

[olds_cool63]

I've been looking at Vitacci's recently. That model was on my short listas well as the GTS 250, which is no way a new model, but still cool: https://www.vitacci.com/scooters/gts-250cc/

[Mudflap]

I like the design of that one with storage like a Helix but Vitacci needs to correct their specs. 7.8 hp and top speed of 56 mph?

[wheelbender6]

Here is a used China Falcon 200 on my local craigslist that I'm sort of mulling over.
Hurry up and ride your Vitacci so you can advise me, Mudflap.

It looks quite a bit different, but is probably mechanically very similar.
Tempting at $1,300 with 5 miles on the clock.

https://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/d/houston-2020-falcon-200cc-moped/7469258458.html

https://images.craigslist.org/01111_8vXSHj7F1bqz_0CI0t2_600x450.jpg

[Mudflap]

Engine is probably identical to the Clash except for fuel injection and maybe a different manufacturer. Many of the Chinese scooter importers are based in Texas so you may be able to choose any one you want and pick it up instead of paying shipping.

[Mudflap]

Smart Deals Now is the seller on Amazon and so far I give them a thumbs up. I've had a couple questions about shipping with UPS freight and a real person has answered the phone and responded quickly to messages. The scooter was shipped out of the LA California area.



BTW UPS shipping is pretty terrible about "incidents" causing delays and updating tracking info.

[Barnone]

Waiting on the new owners here and on ADVrider to get some miles on their Clash 200.

[Mudflap]

A caution for anyone buying through Amazon: The advertised shipping company is UPS but it's actually TFF that used to be UPS Freight. They appear to be totally incompetent. 1st delivery date from their website was 4/13. No calls no show. That night it changed to 4/14. No call no show. Then 4/15 no call no show. Then 4/18 no call no show. Then I managed to talk to the local guy and made an appointment for 10 to 12 on 4/20. No call no show. Unable to get in touch with them since. May have to take a refund from Amazon.

[Mudflap]

Yet another no call, no show delivery appointment. I called TFF Friday to schedule yet another appointment and was assured a delivery date of 12/25 from 10 tom12. I even called early this morning to verify and was told "rest assured your shipment will be delivered today between 10 and 12." NOT!


Rant over for now.

[BiGMERF]

Got one of these for my wife.. 90 miles on it so far, changed the gear and engine oil on day one.. one minor issue was when she was riding (she is learning btw) i told her to stay under 40.. traffic got to her and hit 50.. she heard a burst of air and then the check engine light came on.. she pulled over, i also did to look the bike over for leaks or loose hose.. everything looked fine.. peeked at the gauges again and the check engine light was off...

shrugged it off as " She popped the scooters cherry".. thoughts ?

[Falkon45]

Sounds almost like something emissions wise may have popped off. Sometimes, the crank case vent will be covered during shipping to prevent oil leaks. That could be the culprit.

[JerryHawk250]

Sounds almost like something emissions wise may have popped off. Sometimes, the crank case vent will be covered during shipping to prevent oil leaks. That could be the culprit.

This is very possible. I forgot which bike it was but on that bike the vent line was folded over and zip tied from the factory.

[BiGMERF]

https://imgur.com/a/2qXZzg3

https://imgur.com/a/2qXZzg3


see the one that is capped, that is originating from the air filter box.. is that correct?

new china scoot owner here

[Mudflap]

The line with the plug is there to collect any oil or moisture from the air box into the tube where you can see it. When you see liquid in the tube, pull the plug and drain it.

[Mudflap]

This is very possible. I forgot which bike it was but on that bike the vent line was folded over and zip tied from the factory.


All the Lifan engines I've purchased were shipped that way, and according to the engine numbers listed on the web page that is a Lifan engine.

[BiGMERF]

Then I guess that’s what happened. Lol. Rode it today another 5 miles and she did fine.

May I ask the differences between a Lifan gy6 and a reg gy6 ?

Also since these are gfi, does that mean adding a better flowing air filter or exhaust requires no other adjustments

[Mudflap]

Lifan is just one of many manufacturers making the GY6 engines and their probably isn't much difference between them. I've had great service out of Lifan motorcycle engines so I expect these to be good quality.

[Mudflap]

The scooter arrived today in an unbelievably mangled crate. Fortunately nothing was broken, just some paint scrapes and a bent center stand. We got it set up and oil changed, filled it with gas and it fired right up. Took a short test drive and all is well, seems pretty peppy. Will do a review after getting it plated.

[BiGMERF]

Pics bro

[Mudflap]

Don't ship with T Force Freight.
https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2154

[Mudflap]

TForce Freight formerly known as UPS Freight sucks. Not only was the crate smashed on the way from LA to Bend Or but it took 3 weeks to get here and they had to hand it off to another company to deliver. They told me that in addition to the three weeks transit it would be another 2 weeks until they could schedule delivery to my house. Their web page says 3 days transit time

[JerryHawk250]

Don't ship with T Force Freight.
https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2154


Looks like they ignored the handle with care label. :ohno: any damage?

[Mudflap]

There are a few paint scratches where the metal crate frame was rubbing and a slightly bent center stand. I'm not a perfectionist so it's OK.

[JerryHawk250]

There are a few paint scratches where the metal crate frame was rubbing and a slightly bent center stand. I'm not a perfectionist so it's OK.

Dealer should give you some sort of discount for the damage.

[Mudflap]

Smart Deals Now (seller) did offer to replace scratched parts but I declined. They also offered to send a free helmet, goggles, gloves but I declined because I already have those things. Good seller, bad shipping company.

[Mudflap]

Yesterday I thought I'd pull the belt cover to get the numbers off the belt so I could order a spare but the passenger foot pegs are in the way. I tried disconnecting the shock and dropping the engine down to clear but it wasn't enough. Looks like the engine pivot bolts will have to be removed to get the cover off, a big job. Thinking of cutting off the left hand foot peg so it will clear as I don't plan to ever ride with a passenger.


Also I tested cold weather starting at 19°F and it fired right up. EFI is great but I still prefer a carb for off road remote riding since I can always fix a carb.

[BiGMERF]

No way I was thinking of doing the same. The peg itself doesn’t come off ? Shit I need to take a look. That’s BS

[Mudflap]

The peg comes off but the support is in the way. It occurs to me that maybe detaching the shock and lifting the rear wheel will rock the engine far enough back to clear.

[Mudflap]

Took the scooter up to 55 mph indicated today which it does without effort. Cruising at 55 for a long distance would be no problem. Will give it a few more miles before checking the top speed. It feels very light and nimble but the handlebars hit my knees in slow sharp turns (34" inseam + boots.). The CVT is going to take some getting used to but at least I haven't grabbed a handful of clutch and left a skid mark on the pavement. The mirrors are barely wide enough to see the cop car behind me. Front suspension is pretty good but the rear of course has a lot of unsprung weight.

[JerryHawk250]

The CVT is going to take some getting used to but at least I haven't grabbed a handful of clutch and left a skid mark on the pavement.
I can see me doing that. :lmao: That would be a hard habit to break until i fly over the handle bars, Then I might remember.

[BiGMERF]

Took the scooter up to 55 mph indicated today which it does without effort. Cruising at 55 for a long distance would be no problem. Will give it a few more miles before checking the top speed. It feels very light and nimble but the handlebars hit my knees in slow sharp turns (34" inseam + boots.). The CVT is going to take some getting used to but at least I haven't grabbed a handful of clutch and left a skid mark on the pavement. The mirrors are barely wide enough to see the cop car behind me. Front suspension is pretty good but the rear of course has a lot of unsprung weight.

Wow you took her that high already ? My wife’s is about 5/6 miles off on the indicated mph. Highest she has gone on indicated is around 50. For just a few secs. I agree the scoot is small imo. Well I ride a burgman and the clash is a baby in comparison. I feel oversized at 5’10 200 when I’m on her clash.

[Barnone]

I can see me doing that. :lmao: That would be a hard habit to break until i fly over the handle bars, Then I might remember.
i go from my scooters to my Ural just every day and I don't have any problem with the left rear brake or clutch lever.
Seller on Amazon sold out of the scooter which is good for me as I don't need another scooter

[Mudflap]

Got the plates this morning and took a short ride to check the accuracy of the speedometer. It's 5 mph optimistic at 45. Found an all aluminum phone mount on Amazon that attaches to the mirror base and clamps the phone tightly. Had to thread the mirror stem up another inch and add a couple nuts so the phone mount doesn't hit the plastic. Also the recommend tire pressure of 29/33 is too high IMO. I lowered it to 23/28 and it rode much better.

[Mudflap]

i go from my scooters to my Ural just every day and I don't have any problem with the left rear brake or clutch lever.
Seller on Amazon sold out of the scooter which is good for me as I don't need another scooter


I used to have a Norton that had the rear brake on the left and shifter on the right. Crazy British :-)


BTW these are back in stock on Amazon.

[Mudflap]

There are nice adjustable windshields for the Honda Click but only available in the Philippines. They would probably fit the Clash just as well. In went the cheap route and bought this one on eBay for $33 and it seems decent. It mounts to the base of the mirror stem.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/114228737287?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=2JXmu4PESFq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[RobEmBlind]

Hello, I am new to this forum but have been following . I have a clash 200 efi and my belt shredded into pieces and there isn't anyone that knows the correct size. I took it all apart which was easy. I didn't have to remove the peg but I did take a bolt off by the peg and it dropped it enough to remove the cover. Does anyone know what size belt it is? Thanks in advance.

[NeedInfo200]

I'm enjoying my scooter so far. It is smooth and quiet and fires right up on a cold start.


I have replaced the Variator weights with 14 gram Dr pulley sliders and replaced the chino gates belt with a Bando brand. What a difference no more slipping on acceleration.



Does anyone have the speedo calibration procedure? Also I get a check engine light after riding over 55mph for over a few minutes anyone else? Still runs fine and light goes off after a while. Sometimes I get a misfire at certain throttle positions around mid and full. I did replace the plug with a NGK but no difference.



Where do Clash 200 owners get service and technical information for these bikes?

Any info would help greatly!

[NeedInfo200]

Hello, I am new to this forum but have been following . I have a clash 200 efi and my belt shredded into pieces and there isn't anyone that knows the correct size. I took it all apart which was easy. I didn't have to remove the peg but I did take a bolt off by the peg and it dropped it enough to remove the cover. Does anyone know what size belt it is? Thanks in advance.


I just replaced my belt (Gates China) with a Bando kevlar size 842/20/30.
I bought2 and I'll sell the extra for $20 including shipping if you are in the USA. Don't buy the cheap $10 or $15 Chinese shredder belts.
Let me know. Don

[RobEmBlind]

I just replaced my belt (Gates China) with a Bando kevlar size 842/20/30.
I bought2 and I'll sell the extra for $20 including shipping if you are in the USA. Don't buy the cheap $10 or $15 Chinese shredder belts.
Let me know. Don

Thank you so much. I pmed you.
At what speed do you max out at? I gotten mine up to 71 mph on a good day. I usually max out at 67. Thanks

[Mudflap]

I'm enjoying my scooter so far. It is smooth and quiet and fires right up on a cold start.


I have replaced the Variator weights with 14 gram Dr pulley sliders and replaced the chino gates belt with a Bando brand. What a difference no more slipping on acceleration.



Does anyone have the speedo calibration procedure? Also I get a check engine light after riding over 55mph for over a few minutes anyone else? Still runs fine and light goes off after a while. Sometimes I get a misfire at certain throttle positions around mid and full. I did replace the plug with a NGK but no difference.



Where do Clash 200 owners get service and technical information for these bikes?

Any info would help greatly!


Don't know yet where to get tech info but I expect it will be available as more scooters are equipped with EFI.



Mine has never misfired and the check engine light hasn't come on.



Haven't yet taken the time to see if the speedo can be calibrated but did hold in one of the buttons while turning on the ignition and found another screen that may have been for adjustments. Will fiddle with it when I have time.

[fratermus]

I took it all apart which was easy. I didn't have to remove the peg but I did take a bolt off by the peg and it dropped it enough to remove the cover. Does anyone know what size belt it is? Thanks in advance.


Can you flesh this out a bit? What does it mean in this context?

[RobEmBlind]

Can you flesh this out a bit? What does it mean in this context?

I had a problem removing the CVT cover due to the left peg being in the way. I looked to see if the peg bar was removable and while looking inside I saw a big bolt, Cant miss it. I forgot what size but I removed it and it seemed to drop the engine and cvt down just enough to clear the peg so I can wiggle the cover off. I hope that helps.

[fratermus]

I forgot what size but I removed it and it seemed to drop the engine and cvt down just enough to clear the peg so I can wiggle the cover off. I hope that helps.


Yes, thank you.

[NeedInfo200]

Don't know yet where to get tech info but I expect it will be available as more scooters are equipped with EFI.



Mine has never misfired and the check engine light hasn't come on.



Haven't yet taken the time to see if the speedo can be calibrated but did hold in one of the buttons while turning on the ignition and found another screen that may have been for adjustments. Will fiddle with it when I have time.


I'm in California and I have a 2021 model GT1. Probably has different EFI ecm software. I may have figured out the check engine light and misfire issue. Still doing run check and so far no issues.

[NeedInfo200]

Just clicked over 200 miles and 2 1/2 tanks of gas. Seems to be running better as it breaks in. I'm using full throttle now on short bursts and I've had it up to about 62mph on straight and level road. I replaced the china Gates shredder belt with a Kevlar Bando and 14 gram Dr pulley slider weights lubed with powdered graphite. I really like this scooter. It's smooth, quiet, nimble, and has enough power for around town. Very easy to park and easy on the wallet at fill up time with premium $6.57 here at Exxon! But the guy filling his truck with a V8 was jealous in a joking way!

[Mudflap]

I needed a USB charging port for my phone so I installed one of these under the front cover. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194214221202?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iamsVmypTIe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY



For some reason I couldn't find a good ground or a switched positive up there so I had to run both a positive and negative lead directly to the battery by fishing them through the plastic body using a piece of wire. I mounted one of the USB female sockets above the left hand pocket in front of the riders knee where there is a rectangular rubber plug. Also added a weather proof toggle switch next to the plug and a 5 amp fuse next to the battery.

[Mudflap]

I've emailed Vitacci and Taizhou Qianxin to ask for the pas code to calibrate the speedometer. I'll post it if they respond.


BTW the 100 ohm resistor that I put in series with the cylinder head thermistor seems to be working, check engine light hasn't come on since it was installed. It's been cool here so we'll see how it works once the weather warms up.

[RobEmBlind]

I needed a USB charging port for my phone so I installed one of these under the front cover. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194214221202?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iamsVmypTIe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY



For some reason I couldn't find a good ground or a switched positive up there so I had to run both a positive and negative lead directly to the battery by fishing them through the plastic body using a piece of wire. I mounted one of the USB female sockets above the left hand pocket in front of the riders knee where there is a rectangular rubber plug. Also added a weather proof toggle switch next to the plug and a 5 amp fuse next to the battery.

Would you be able to post pictures of the finish product on the USB please.:thanks:

[Mudflap]

Difficult to post pics on this forum with the size restrictions. Not much to see anyway, just USB port where the rubber plug used to be and a toggle switch just below it.


Rode about 75 miles today on mountain roads and the check engine light didn't come on, so the 100 ohm resistor may have done the trick.

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2177

[RobEmBlind]

Very nice. Where did you mount your phone at? Thanks

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2178

[Mudflap]

Approaching 500 miles now and adding the 100 ohm resistor to the cylinder head thermistor has apparently solved the check engine light issue. On a couple ~50 mile rides on 80°+ days, on very steep roads in the Cascade Mountains it ran perfectly.



I was somewhat skeptical that this CVT scooter would climb steep hills at low speeds without slipping the clutch but it did fine. I'm talking winding single lane paved forest service roads of around 15% grade at speeds under 20 mph.



The next issue is the throttle cable elbow hitting my knee. I've ordered a seat pad that I think will allow me to slide farther back on the seat without the hump getting in the way.

[Mudflap]

The seat cushion works. Now I can sit farther back so my knee doesn't hit the throttle cable elbow. Normally I don't like air cushions but in this case it's bringing the front seat height up to the level of the ridge so I'm mostly sitting behind it. It comes with straps but because of how the bottom of the seat sits on the storage compartment they won't work. Instead I mounted it with nano tape. Amazing and useful stuff.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165547110784?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ee_zZfOyRZ-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Rode another 75 miles on tight twisty single lane paved forest service roads this morning and the EFI system feels perfect with the resistor added to the thermistor.



Nothing like a scooter for handling on tight twisty roads.

[Mudflap]

Under the https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2181

[NeedInfo200]

I installed a 150 ohm resister in series with the thermister and no check engine light in 85-90 degree weather. I have 300 miles on it now and ready for the first oil change. I really like this scooter. I wish the manufacturer was more involved in helping owners get technical info and parts. That's my only major complaint. Do you think the speedo calibration procedure would be in the Honda Click 150 service manual?

[Mudflap]

The lack of technical info is par for the course for Chinese bikes. No idea if the Click service manual would have the speedo calibration info, likely it's different anyway. Good to hear the 150 ohm resistor works too.

[NeedInfo200]

It's almost impossible to find any K block GY6 or GY7 (whatever it is) parts. I suppose the main wear items will be in the top end and I have seen those at a few places online. A standard GY6 61mm big bore cylinder/head bolt spacing is different and the cam tower and cam also diff. This Lifan LF 161 qmk that they stuck in there appears to be a dinosaur from the start. The variator is weird 17mm id but, the clutch and cvt belt is standard.

[Mudflap]

I took a nice pre dawn ride this morning and it does feel like it's starting to gain a little bit of zip as it wears in. The stock rollers seem fine to me but I have no experience with the Dr Pulley sliders or changing roller weight. Being able to slide back on the seat now with the pad has made it more comfortable and the throttle elbow hitting my knee in a turn is less of a concern.

[NeedInfo200]

What octane are you running in your Clash? I've been using 91 and fires right up. I don't think it has extraordinarily high compression so maybe 89 will work. Either way it's great to fill it up for $5 or 6 and be full tank!

[NeedInfo200]

My knees hit the wind guard unless I move back to about the middle of the seat. Then I slide forward a little after each stop. Oh Well!

[Mudflap]

Regular 87, cheapest I can find. The manual says 91 which is the European rating equivalent to 87 US.

[NeedInfo200]

I figured the Odo would be off just like the Speedo. I was messing with various 3 digit codes to try and get into setup but, no luck. Have you tried any Pass codes? The manufacturer sure isn't at all helpful. They just don't reply or answer with BS. And Cougar isn't any help at all nor is Saferwholsale where I purchased it from. I connected a code reader to the connector under the front cover and it reads basic info but, can't change anything.

[Mudflap]

I got no response from the retailer or the manufacturer on the pass code and haven't spent any more time trying to guess. If this particular speedo unit becomes common on scooters in the future maybe someone will find the info but in the meantime it's running just fine with the resistor installed. Would be nice to have an accurate speedo though.

[clash 168cc]

Under the https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2181

Do you know where to get a valve cover gasket? I heard a little tapping. Adjusted the valves. Sounds great. The valve cover leaked. Wound up using gasket maker first on valve cover grove side only. The leak stopped. Wouldn't mind having a couple of these for later. Also heard the clutches and variators are different than the usual GY6. Not sure where to get those other than maybe the dealer I bought from. I want better quality. I feel slight chattering at different ranges of speed. Maybe normal. 700miles.

[clash 168cc]

What octane are you running in your Clash? I've been using 91 and fires right up. I don't think it has extraordinarily high compression so maybe 89 will work. Either way it's great to fill it up for $5 or 6 and be full tank!

I'm just buying Non-ethanol 91-93 and also adding Lucas fuel inj cleaner. I have a gallon of it anyway already. Only about 6-8 dollars a week running around town. Wanted to buy a used scooter but saw how much the wanted for them. New is better in this environment. Seeing more on the road now. Just hope they don't start legislating more rules and regulations than they have already.

[clash 168cc]

Another thing you can do is take the seat compartment out and order a sheet of foam heat blocking material. Sticks on one side and aluminum foil look to the outside. Apply in sections to the engine side. Stopped the heat inside the seat compartment. My raincoat, phones and tool kit were getting really hot until I did that.

[clash 168cc]

I figured the Odo would be off just like the Speedo. I was messing with various 3 digit codes to try and get into setup but, no luck. Have you tried any Pass codes? The manufacturer sure isn't at all helpful. They just don't reply or answer with BS. And Cougar isn't any help at all nor is Saferwholsale where I purchased it from. I connected a code reader to the connector under the front cover and it reads basic info but, can't change anything.

What kind of code reader? Where to buy.

[Mudflap]

Do you know where to get a valve cover gasket? I heard a little tapping. Adjusted the valves. Sounds great. The valve cover leaked. Wound up using gasket maker first on valve cover grove side only. The leak stopped. Wouldn't mind having a couple of these for later. Also heard the clutches and variators are different than the usual GY6. Not sure where to get those other than maybe the dealer I bought from. I want better quality. I feel slight chattering at different ranges of speed. Maybe normal. 700miles.
If I needed a valve cover gasket I'd Google pictures and find one that looks similar. Seems there are several different types. Failing that I'd buy some bulk O ring material and super glue the ends together to make one.


As for the slight chattering at different speeds the first suspect would be the belt flapping around. I suppose you could run it with the cover off and observe what's going on. Hard to imagine any clutch or variator parts being worn at such low mileage. A different brand of belt might vibrate at a different frequency or not at all.


My scoot turned over 800 miles (indicated) yesterday and is running fine. The more I ride it the more I like it. Wish it had a bigger gas tank. I keep an aluminum fuel bottle with about 20 oz of gas under the seat for emergency use.

[clash 168cc]

If I needed a valve cover gasket I'd Google pictures and find one that looks similar. Seems there are several different types. Failing that I'd buy some bulk O ring material and super glue the ends together to make one.


As for the slight chattering at different speeds the first suspect would be the belt flapping around. I suppose you could run it with the cover off and observe what's going on. Hard to imagine any clutch or variator parts being worn at such low mileage. A different brand of belt might vibrate at a different frequency or not at all.


My scoot turned over 800 miles (indicated) yesterday and is running fine. The more I ride it the more I like it. Wish it had a bigger gas tank. I keep an aluminum fuel bottle with about 20 oz of gas under the seat for emergency use.

I found one but only over seas. Part#152MI-A-2-104. DataParts in Germany. Would be a wide o-ring strip. That idea might work.

I'll take off the cover after it cools down from 90+ deg. I have a better kevlar belt that might fix the chattering. Noticed black residue inside the cover last time I looked. Fuel bottle is good but I don't go super far anyway.

I found a tactical kit bag and put together a few basic tools that I hope I don't need including flat tire plugs that screw in with Philips head to fix a flat and a battery operated air pump.

Didn't realize how much gas I was burning till I started running most of my errands with this scooter.

[Mudflap]

I just replaced my belt (Gates China) with a Bando kevlar size 842/20/30.
I bought2 and I'll sell the extra for $20 including shipping if you are in the USA. Don't buy the cheap $10 or $15 Chinese shredder belts.
Let me know. Don


1100 miles on the odometer now and I pulled the cover to check the belt. Original belt is a Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 not 842-20-30. Belt is in good shape but I'll carry a spare and the tools to change it.



To get the cover off I cut off the heavy wire backing piece of the left footpeg then removed the lower shock bolt and pulled the wheel up with a ratchet strap. It would not clear without cutting the part of the foot peg mount that holds your shoe away from the plastic body panel.

[Mudflap]

I got tired of calculating actual speed on the inaccurate speedometer so I ordered a GPS speedometer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225164270988?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=do2PGmwQQm6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Using my phone as a speedo works fine but it's a hassle taking it off everytime I leave the scoot.

[Mudflap]

My scooter broke!


The plastic guard on the muffler broke where the attachment screws go through. Don't think I ever hit it on anything so it's just from vibration. Thought it looked pretty flimsy. I'll remove it and cut off the mounting points because it's not needed.

[Mudflap]

I did another check of MPG yesterday after an 83 mile ride mostly at 55 to 60 MPH (actual speed) and got 76 MPG. I'm 6'1" 230 lbs riding at 4000' elevation. It reached 76 MPH top speed according to the speedometer which is about 62 actual MPH. Rural roads, without windshield.

[clash 168cc]

1100 miles on the odometer now and I pulled the cover to check the belt. Original belt is a Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 not 842-20-30. Belt is in good shape but I'll carry a spare and the tools to change it.



To get the cover off I cut off the heavy wire backing piece of the left footpeg then removed the lower shock bolt and pulled the wheel up with a ratchet strap. It would not clear without cutting the part of the foot peg mount that holds your shoe away from the plastic body panel.


I cracked it open at 1000 miles to check the clutch and the variator and put on the new kevlar belt. Everything was good but the clutch pads and the bell was lined with grease. Had to clean and sand. Not coming from the engine.They must have greased the moving parts and the centrifugal force pushed it out to the pads. I'll check it again after another 1000 miles. Accelerates much smoother now. I used an impact to remove the Clutch and Variator and the end nuts were dented. I'm going to try removing with a breaker bar next time. Changing my oil at 500 miles with synthetic. Is that too often? Doesn't seem to burn a drop.
al

[clash 168cc]

I got tired of calculating actual speed on the inaccurate speedometer so I ordered a GPS speedometer. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225164270988?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=do2PGmwQQm6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Using my phone as a speedo works fine but it's a hassle taking it off everytime I leave the scoot.

Hope you give a review, where you installed it and how accurate it is. Was thinking about the same thing.Tried a couple of phone Apps. They were very slow to react. Google is good but too much trouble to use. Need something you can install and leave on there.

[Mudflap]

I cracked it open at 1000 miles to check the clutch and the variator and put on the new kevlar belt. Everything was good but the clutch pads and the bell was lined with grease. Had to clean and sand. Not coming from the engine.They must have greased the moving parts and the centrifugal force pushed it out to the pads. I'll check it again after another 1000 miles. Accelerates much smoother now. I used an impact to remove the Clutch and Variator and the end nuts were dented. I'm going to try removing with a breaker bar next time. Changing my oil at 500 miles with synthetic. Is that too often? Doesn't seem to burn a drop.
al


Grease on çlutch pads isn't good. Didn't see any on mine when I opened it up. There was some oil in the air filter box from being upside down or who knows what orientation during shipping.


The owners manual recommends an oil change every 600 miles which seems excessive so I'll see if it looks dirty then probably go with every 1000 miles.

[Mudflap]

I rode the same 83 mile route today, same weather conditions, same speeds, etc., but with the windshield installed. This time it got 82 MPG. I'm checking it by weight with an accurate scale. So the verdict is that a windshield helps with MPG at least at high speed. 76 MPG vs 82 MPG.

[Mudflap]

Hope you give a review, where you installed it and how accurate it is. Was thinking about the same thing.Tried a couple of phone Apps. They were very slow to react. Google is good but too much trouble to use. Need something you can install and leave on there.
Shipping delay so it won't be here until the end of next week. Should be very accurate since it uses GPS signals. Not sure yet where I'll mount it.

[clash 168cc]

Shipping delay so it won't be here until the end of next week. Should be very accurate since it uses GPS signals. Not sure yet where I'll mount it.





Thought about standing it up against the windshield. I would have to put in a USB. My clutch had no wear, so I am hoping it was just too much grease.

[Mudflap]

If anyone figures out how to remove the handlebar plastic parts without breaking them, let me know. I found a video of someone doing it on the Click in the Philippines but I pulled on the plastic tabs as hard as I dared but no luck. I'd like to tighten the right hand mirror mount but can't reach the bottom bolt with the plastic in the way.


Passed 1500 miles yesterday.

[clash 168cc]

If anyone figures out how to remove the handlebar plastic parts without breaking them, let me know. I found a video of someone doing it on the Click in the Philippines but I pulled on the plastic tabs as hard as I dared but no luck. I'd like to tighten the right hand mirror mount but can't reach the bottom bolt with the plastic in the way.


Passed 1500 miles yesterday.

There's a hidden screw under the front nose. You have to take off the black top cover piece between the headlights to gain access to the screw under the nose of the part to take off the plastics around the display. Hope that makes sense.

[Mudflap]

There's a hidden screw under the front nose. You have to take off the black top cover piece between the headlights to gain access to the screw under the nose of the part to take off the plastics around the display. Hope that makes sense.
Yes I did remove that screw which is kind of fiddly with a stubby screwdriver. I can lift up the front of that piece and pop out the 2 tabs that are out to the sides. I assume there are 2 more tabs at the sides of the speedometer but didn't want to force it too much. Did you successfully remove it without breaking anything?

[clash 168cc]

Yes I did remove that screw which is kind of fiddly with a stubby screwdriver. I can lift up the front of that piece and pop out the 2 tabs that are out to the sides. I assume there are 2 more tabs at the sides of the speedometer but didn't want to force it too much. Did you successfully remove it without breaking anything?

I watched someone on YouTube do it. Probably use a plastic wedge tool for that if it won't come out. The front clips are small and clip under. You slide them to the front of the bike.

"FAIRING REMOVAL FOR HONDA CLICK 125 V2 [FULL TUTORIAL STEP BY STEP]" is one of the videos where he uses a plastic body panel tool. I will be taking mine apart to straighten the handlebar. They are a degree or so off.

[Mudflap]

I watched someone on YouTube do it. Probably use a plastic wedge tool for that if it won't come out. The front clips are small and clip under. You slide them to the front of the bike.

"FAIRING REMOVAL FOR HONDA CLICK 125 V2 [FULL TUTORIAL STEP BY STEP]" is one of the videos where he uses a plastic body panel tool. I will be taking mine apart to straighten the handlebar. They are a degree or so off.
Thanks for the link. I'll have to get a set of those plastic tools. I don't think you need to remove the handlebar plastic to adjust the bars, you can reach the bolt with the front fairing top piece removed.


The GPS speedometer arrived and I used the included suction cup mount to attach it to the windshield. I'm going to try mounting it just below the existing speedometer with some nano tape (amazing stuff) once I get a 90 degree micro USB cable. I need to borrow a 10 year old kid to figure out how all the settings work.

[Mudflap]

Tested the GPS speedometer and it works well. Comes preset to read 7% optimistic so that it matches most speedometers but it's easily adjustable. It does retain the settings when power is removed. There is no on/off switch on the unit, it's on whenever power is applied.

[clash 168cc]

Thanks for the link. I'll have to get a set of those plastic tools. I don't think you need to remove the handlebar plastic to adjust the bars, you can reach the bolt with the front fairing top piece removed.


The GPS speedometer arrived and I used the included suction cup mount to attach it to the windshield. I'm going to try mounting it just below the existing speedometer with some nano tape (amazing stuff) once I get a 90 degree micro USB cable. I need to borrow a 10 year old kid to figure out how all the settings work.

Yea, I held the front wheel with my ankles and hit one of the bars. Looks straight now. Decided to stick with the Speedometer and just subtract 5 miles for now. Just cleaned it up. Try Milwaukee Muscle spray wax with ceramic. That stuff really shines it like new. Doesn't leave white wax in the cracks everywhere. Just wipe a little on with a clean micro fiber and come back with a dry one to finish off. I need to check it again but looks like at least 90 mpg after cleaning the grease off the clutch pads and a new belt. Better because I don't usually go over 45mph to the store and back and only weigh 180. I'll be checking it a few more times.

[Mudflap]

Here is how the GPS speedometer is mounted. Almost looks like it belongs there.

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2201

[clash 168cc]

Is Nano Tape the same as Gel Tape. Clear Gel? There's a gap between the windshield and display about 1 inch at the bottom. A piece of round PVC pipe insulation fits in the gap. I'm going to block that hole this winter and use that tape because it won't damage anything. Will try to show a picture. Picked up some gloves with Thinsulate. Not sure how much cold I will ride in. You just need a cup holder. BTW my seat button opens with the key out.

[Mudflap]

As far as I know nano tape and gell tape are the same stuff. A tiny 3/4" square of it holds the speedometer in place. I wouldn't mind if the seat would open without the key but I suppose it wouldn't be good when parking in a place where it should be locked.



Thinsulate in gloves is a good thing for keeping hands warm. Wish I could find gloves of any kind that would fit my freakishly long fingers. I have some 3XL deer skin gauntlets that still need another inch in the fingers.



1800 miles now and the engine is feeling like it's loosening up and making a little more power which is typical for Lifan engines. The suspension is also loosening up so it takes the bumps better, or maybe I'm just getting heavier.

[Mudflap]

Vitacci Clash 2000 mile review:



Appearance wise the Vitacci Clash 200 is nearly identical to the Honda Click 150 which is not imported to the US but is popular in the Philippines. The Clash 200 is powered by a 168cc forced air cooled EFI GY6 long case type engine made by Lifan. This is a pretty typical scooter with a steel tube frame covered with plastic panels. The fuel injected engine and large diameter 14" wheels set it apart from most Chinese scooters which use a carburetor and 10" to 13" wheels.

The lighted digital dash displays a speedometer, fuel guage, bar graph tachometer, and typical indicator lights including a check engine light. The speedometer is optimistic by about 8% and the fuel guage is not at all linear. The switch gear looks to be good quality for a Chinese scooter. The included battery is a sealed AGM type that is located under the floorboard.

Most of these scooters are drop shipped in the factory crate and require minor assembly. Instructions for assembly are not included.

The suspension is telescopic forks and a rear mono shock with no adjustments but it rides pretty well. Ground clearance is minimal so riding off road is not recommended. A center stand and side stand are installed. The Seyoun brand tires are pretty sticky and ride well. The supplied cast aluminum rear rack is quite sturdy and it comes with a smallish color matched top box.

As a 50+ year motorcycle rider and former motorcycle mechanic I am pleased with the fit and finish of the bike and the factory welding is nicely done. A weak spot on many Chinese scooters is the muffler mount but the mount on this bike is very robust. Factory drive belt is a Gates Powerlink 835-20-30. Access to the engine for valve adjustment and oil changes is easy.

One drawback I found is the gas tank only holds 1.3 gallons so the range is around 100 miles. Cruising at 55 to 60 mph without a windshield gets me 76 mpg, 82 mpg with a windshield on 87 octane gas. Gas tank is under the seat unlocked by a button next to the ignition key. Top speed will depend on conditions but you can count on a solid GPS measured 55 mph and up to 65 mph. The engine is quiet and smooth running.

Seating position is good but long legged people may find their right knee contacts the throttle cable elbow on slow turns and big feet barely fit on the floorboard. The seat is stepped so sliding back isn't comfortable unless a pad is added to the front to bring it all to about the same level. Mirrors are pretty stout but a large person will need to add spacers to see around shoulders. Under seat storage will fit a half helmet and there are a couple small storage pockets on the front leg shield in addition to the supplied top box.

Riding experience: Insert the standard non electronic ignition key and hold a brake while pressing the start button and the engine starts instantly and idles steadily. Open the throttle and it accelerates well enough to beat most traffic. The CVT transmission tends to keep the RPM around 6k to 7k but the engine doesn't sound like it's working hard. The low center of gravity and light weight along with 14" sticky tires make it handle well with very little effort but it's not hard to drag the center stand on hard left corners. The non ABS brakes are more than adequate with a single dual piston disk on the front and drum rear.

All in all this scooter is a good deal at $1750 delivered. With it's Lifan engine I expect it to be reliable and long lasting. As with all Chinese bikes I do not recommend them to anyone not willing and able to do their own maintenance and repairs, or at least have a shop nearby that is willing to work on them.

[JDTucson]

Sorry if I'm in the wrong thread, I have a 2021 Clash 200 and have been trying to find where I can buy parts. I need a temperature thermister, (the wires broke off). And the resister, sounds like a good idea. Appreciate your help.

[clash 168cc]

Sorry if I'm in the wrong thread, I have a 2021 Clash 200 and have been trying to find where I can buy parts. I need a temperature thermister, (the wires broke off). And the resister, sounds like a good idea. Appreciate your help.

You should try the company you bought it from. They should know. You might have to buy from overseas. I don't know either. I will need parts later on I'm sure. Please post here when you find out. Look up Lifan online.Lifan makes the engine. They should have parts.

[Mudflap]

I took the variator apart and measured the rollers at 12.66 grams 18mm diameter, 14mm wide. Minimal flat spotting after 2000 miles.
Boss is 23.96mm outer diameter, inside diameter 17.02mm, 51.5mm long.

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2202

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2203

[Mudflap]

I ordered a spare belt and was sent an 842mm instead of an 835 so I tried it on for size since NeedInfo200 installed that size. Seems to work fine being a little longer.
https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2204

[Mudflap]

Crater Lake summer of 22. Rode a couple laps of Crater Lake this last summer. The scooter runs fine at 8000'.



https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2205

[Zapkin]

Crater Lake summer of 22. Rode a couple laps of Crater Lake this last summer. The scooter runs fine at 8000'.



https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2205

What always amazed me about that place is just how close that asteroid came to hitting the visitors center..talk about luck!

[Mudflap]

What always amazed me about that place is just how close that asteroid came to hitting the visitors center..talk about luck!
Must have been a comet with lots of ice to fill the crater with water.

[Mudflap]

Thought I would experiment with variator sliders of the same 13g weight as the original rollers. These are about $10 on Amazon as opposed to $22 for the Dr Pulley brand so if I don't like them I'll be out half the money. I'll install them today but won't be able to test them until the snow melts.
https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2206

[nazimsahigara]

I recently purchased Vitacci Force which is similar to Vitacci Clash but it is not running smoothly and making lot of noise, I feel the belt of the scooter is not good and needs to be replaced, Can anyone recommend a high quality belt for this scooter? I see online they are selling belts for 50cc and 150cc scooters only and nowhere I can find 168cc.

[Mudflap]

I recently purchased Vitacci Force which is similar to Vitacci Clash but it is not running smoothly and making lot of noise, I feel the belt of the scooter is not good and needs to be replaced, Can anyone recommend a high quality belt for this scooter? I see online they are selling belts for 50cc and 150cc scooters only and nowhere I can find 168cc.
The engine in your scooter is listed as the LF161QMK, same as the Clash. Original belt is a Gates Powerlink 835-20-30. A size 842-20-30 also fits and seems to be more common. Bando brand belts are highly regarded.

[Mudflap]

Checked the valves today at ~2000 miles and found the intake valve had loosened to .007" and the exhaust valve had tightened to zero.

[clash 168cc]

Don't know if it's right or wrong. The plate next to your right foot say's adjust to .06 to .08 mm on both valves. Mine started to tap at under 500 miles. They were super loose. I went by the label and no tap at about 1700 miles. I don't know how tight you can go or should go.

[Mudflap]

The plate is no doubt correct. I went with a slightly larger lash since that is what most people seem use on the GY6 150s.


BTW the plate that shows valve clearance on my scooter is under the seat affixed to the storage bucket.

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2207

[Mudflap]

I ordered 3 different thermistors, 10k, 50k, 100k, from Alibaba to fiddle with. Size and threads are correct but there is a small protrusion on the end that screws in but they'll probably fit. It's likely the protrusion can be cut off if necessary without affecting it's operation. Cost for all three including shipping was about $6.50.

[Mudflap]

Parts for the LF161QMK are starting to show up on eBay. Some are calling this 169cc engine a GY6-B or a GY7. Here's a variator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353050203886?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IqmFdvXxTJa&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=OBNvB0WBQ6-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[nazimsahigara]

Hi, I have Vitacci Force 200 EFI, the same engine as Vitacci Clash, Where can I find and purchase new muffler exhaust set for my scooter? Any leads?

[Mudflap]

That muffler mount is quite different than the Clash. The Clash mount looks to be much more robust. If you have the tools and wherewithal I would weld on an aftermarket generic scooter muffler. Otherwise I'd look for an aftermarket muffler that could be clamped to the existing pipe.

[Mudflap]

I measured the stock thermistor resistance at 0°C at 5.4K Ohms and 220 Ohms at 100°C.

[Mudflap]

The snow finally melted off our road so I got to test out the variator sliders I put in last season. They are those weird shaped things that weigh 13 grams. Acceleration is improved over the stock rollers but it's not moving to a high enough gear ratio for speeds over 50 mph. RPM at 50 mph is close to 9000 assuming the tach is accurate. I have sets of both 14 and 16 gram round rollers on order so I'll see how those work in a week or two. BTW the stock rollers are round and weigh about 12.5 grams

[clash 168cc]

Are you trying to get more speed, power or gas mileage? Interested to see your results. You also might try taking the clutch apart to re-grease the spiral slide channels. I did mine and got a bit earlier takeoff and more positive grab. You also said you installed a Bando belt I believe. I bought one and will put it on a 3000 miles coming up soon. Did that change anything? Going to also look at the air filter. Someone online said they can be washed. Can't remember where online.

[Mudflap]

Are you trying to get more speed, power or gas mileage? Interested to see your results. You also might try taking the clutch apart to re-grease the spiral slide channels. I did mine and got a bit earlier takeoff and more positive grab. You also said you installed a Bando belt I believe. I bought one and will put it on a 3000 miles coming up soon. Did that change anything? Going to also look at the air filter. Someone online said they can be washed. Can't remember where online.
Just playing around. Stock was perfectly fine. Don't know if the slightly longer belt made any difference since I changed it the same time I changed the rollers. The air filter looks like paper but maybe it's something washable. Figure I'll make a bracket to mount a common lawnmower air filter in its place when the time comes.

[clash 168cc]

There are videos on youtube about the 2 different size belts. The one from "Rolling Wrench" said one is for power and one is for top speed. The Briggs and Stratton square lawn mower air filter looks like a similar size. I know they are washable if nothing has changed lately.

[Mudflap]

I took the variator apart to change the sliders back to rollers and found I'd installed the sliders the wrong way around so I flipped them and tested it again. Now it works like it should so the 842 belt and the 13 gram sliders do indeed work well. The gear ratio at high speed does seem taller than with the stock rollers. I'll leave the sliders in place for now.


The belt cover gasket was damaged so I left it off and found the kickstart lever is binding a bit without the additional thickness of the gasket. I never use it anyway but next time I have the cover off I'll determine where it's binding and either replace the gasket or do a bit of grinding on whatever needs it.



Also I checked the sparkplug color and found it slightly rich which I assume is the ECU compensating for the 100 ohm resistor I put in series with the head temp thermistor. I swapped the 100 ohm for a 20 ohm and it seems to work fine. It'll take a few hundred miles and some hot weather riding to determine the best resistor value.

[ChroMiikey]

Greetings fellow Clash 200 owners! Bought mine this past Saturday May 6 from the Arlington Power Sports @ 3201 Pioneer Pkwy #34, a hole in the wall that I was forwarded to when I called the TXPowerSports on 106th Street. I got a good deal, $1800 out the door fully tested and assembled (theoretically), with all taxes and fees included. I wouldn't recommend these guys to anyone who couldn't pull the GY6 to work on it themselves. Expect zero customer service after the sale.


She currently has 56 miles, and is running great so far. There was a single loose exhaust bolt. I removed the seat and did a once over on the engine and everything seemed correct. I changed the engine and gear oils, as well as the spark plug, at 50 miles. I think she runs smoother after the spark plug change. I used an NGK c7hsa. The engine oil still looked new, but the gear oil was dark and smelled a little burnt. I used STP 75w90 to see if I could get away with cheap since I will be doing weekly maintenance. I bought 3/16 and 1/4 lines from AutoZone, as well as blue and red loctite, that I will be installing soon when I check the valve gaps.



There is a peculiar engine noise at certain RPM. I don't know the word that describes the noise. A type of oscillation starts occurring, like a vibration, and the oscillation gets faster as RPM are increased. Such that there is this vibrational "wom" noise every second at like 6000 RPM, then as RPM is increased, the "wom" gets faster until it smooths itself out with the engine noise at around 8000 RPM. I was thinking it's the belt, or possibly just a quirk of the engine?


I've heard "breaking in" is a myth, but I'm still babying her. I feel like I'll start throttling her soon. She wants me to, I'll give her that. I bought her as an experiment, and will be using her for gig deliveries. I'll be sure to report any bigger issues I come across, and update at milestone distances.


I'm concerned about the horrifying lack of customer service from everyone in the supply chain all the way to corporate. I am obsessed with gathering as much info on this scoot as I can, as I will be doing all work on it myself. As soon as I hit a snag in learning, I'll start hounding any and everyone I can until I reach the CEO, if it comes to that. I've already been ignored from various angles. Corporate HQ is local to me, so I've chosen patience. Identifying part numbers and where to get them is apparently quite the challenge. If anyone wants to collaborate on an owner assembled service manual, let me know.


Info I'm looking for as of now: I need part numbers for the TPS, O2 sensor, and fuel pump, to start. What's the other sensor on the throttle body? I've heard she's a Honda Click clone. Is it just a body/appearance clone (which in my mind isn't a true clone)? The Click 150 or 160 to be specific? I'm hearing this is a Lifan engine, but the engine "manual" it came with says Qianxin, anyone know what's up with that?

[Mudflap]

I don't have your part #s but be sure to post them if you find them. The Clash is a Click clone by appearance. If your engine number begins with LF it's made by Lifan.



Here are some random measurements and stuff I've collected.


Delivered 4/27/22
Bought from Amazon, Smart Deals Now
$1379 + $400 shipping
Vin# HODTAEM4XMX060593
License plate M8 35860
Model CLASH 200 GT1
Displacement 168cc
LF161QMK (Lifan)
Made by Taizhou Qianxin subsidiary of Zhejiang Jonway
Ignition EFI
Numbers on the thermistor are 21-05A and M8*10-A 21 06. Resistance at 70° F is 2135 ohms.
Engine Type LF161QMK
Maxi Speed 68 MPH, 110 KPH
Fuel Tank 4.8L
Tire Size 80/90-14；90/90-14 Seyoun brand
Brake F: Disc / R ：Drum
L*W*H（Inches） 81.4*28.7*44.4
Wheel Base(Inches） 52.3"
Bore 61mm
Stroke 57.6mm
Battery Type 12V7A
Lights all LED
Speedometer Digital
Maxi Power 6.8 (kw/8000min)
Maxi Torque 9.6 (N.m/5500min)
Idle 1600±100
Compress Ratio 9.2：1
Weight (LBS) 232
Carrying capacity (LBS) 331
Tire pressure F29 - R33
Valves .06mm to .08mm (.00236"/.00315") intake and exhaust
Battery Kage AGM sealed MF12V7-1A
Oil 15/40 recommended, 800 ml, 27oz
0.825 x odometer mileage = actual mileage
MPG 82 with windshield, 76 mpg without at 55 to 60 mph cruise. (Crooked River Canyon ride)
Inner clutch nut 38mm (1.5")
Outer clutch nut 17mm
Crankshaft nut 17mm
Rollers 12.66 grams 18mm diameter, 14mm wide
Boss 23.96mm outer diameter, inside diameter 17.02mm, 51.5mm long
Variator is about 111.125mm in diameter
0.222" or 5.62mm throttle cable end.
Cable .061" or 1.56mm
Maintenance:
Oil change every 600 mi
Gear oil every 3000 mi
Valve adj at 600 then every 4000

[Mudflap]

I ordered a cheap gasket set from eBay to get the variator cover gasket I accidentally ripped. The standard "long case 150" gasket does fit.

[Mudflap]

https://youtu.be/k9BG-uXNIZA


Review of the Clash

[clash 168cc]

Can't seem to download pictures of my Clash. One thing that anyone should add is the 2"
stick on 3M blind spot mirrors. Was constantly twisting my head to see before changing lanes. You will have a major blind spot and won't even see cars as they pass by. Only a few dollars on Amazon. Don't buy the ones that swivel. Just the standard round blind spot mirrors. Also looking at the filter case it reads "clean the filter by hand every 1000 miles". I'll try it when I hit 3000 in about 100 miles.

[clash 168cc]

Read the instructions.

[clash 168cc]

2 more

[ChroMiikey]

Howdy guys, it's been about 10 days so far. Did about 400 miles of deliveries in a 3 day period. She keeps sounding different as she breaks in, but I don't know if this isn't normal. Nothing that would cause concern, maybe we're just getting to know each other.


She's nimble, quick enough, and people think she's cute. She's rough, though, and maybe that's the 70's technology (minus the EFI). Shakes a bit at 50+, but i can release handlebars and there's no wobble. The helicopter noise could be the belt or stator? Not getting worse.


Maintenance is Monday. Drum brake squeals, and it's not very tight. I tightened the brake lever when I got it. Asked a Chinese parts dealer and he said he had no access to 161QMK parts, but that 157QMJ parts should work if they look the same. My personal concern is the EFI parts, throttle body and sensors. I'll probably bite the bullet and pay the premium prices at the dealer for extras of these parts. Vitacci has a good idea here, and I respect their business acumen. I think they are a private company, or I might invest myself!


I think it's fair to say I wouldn't recommend this to anyone who lacked the discipline and knowledge to maintain and repair it. I would still go with the generic "buy a used Honda" except I would throw in Suzuki, Yamaha, or KymCo and Sym before a Vitacci. Island made, baby. Still, I appreciate this little scoot, 6/10 as of now.

[Mudflap]

2500 miles on mine so far and it's feeling like it's getting broken in. Running great.



More Chinese scooters are arriving in the US with EFI so I suspect EFI parts will be cheap and available before long.



Some transmission parts are different from the 150. The crankshaft on the 170 is larger in diameter so the variator boss and drive plate are different but the other parts are the same. Clutch and rear pulley appear to be the same too.


Dont know about your helicopter noise but I would suspect the belt. You could remove the belt cover and see if the belt is vibrating when it's making the noise.

[Mudflap]

Probably will get about 3500 miles out of the original rear tire, it's getting kind of thin. Bought a Michelin City Grip II from Amazon for about $70 in the original 90/90-14 size. Made in Serbia!

[clash 168cc]

One of the tires could be out of balance. I also suggest that you buy a spare belt incase it breaks. Mine had grease on the clutch pads from the factory. Probably just got there from the clutch spinning. That caused slipping of the clutch and a vibration at 35 to 40 mph. Open it up, check the clutch and change the belt before it gets worse. Put your bike on the center stand and see if you can see if the tires are wobbling when you spin them.

[Mudflap]

I pulled the fuel gauge sending unit/fuel pump to see if it was hanging up or could be adjusted but no joy. The ohm reading from the potentiometer was consistent throughout it's range of movement, and it moved freely. Couldn't bend the float rod enough to make a difference because doing so would make it hit the filter or the top of the tank. Range is 8.5 ohms to 87 ohms.

[clash 168cc]

I pulled the fuel gauge sending unit/fuel pump to see if it was hanging up or could be adjusted but no joy. The ohm reading from the potentiometer was consistent throughout it's range of movement, and it moved freely. Couldn't bend the float rod enough to make a difference because doing so would make it hit the filter or the top of the tank. Range is 8.5 ohms to 87 ohms.

My fuel gauge has started to wander up and down. Even 5 miles after a full tank it drops to 3 bars then 6 then 4. I just go by resetting the trip A when it's full. I'm going to run the tank down and see what miles it goes to empty. If the display goes out I'll use a dip stick later on. The display can't be cheap or easy to get and would have the same low quality if you bought a new one. You might see if the dealer can get you a new sending unit for it. Might not be too much.

[Mudflap]

About 3000 miles now and then rear tire is nearly worn out. I'll be installing the Michelin next week. No complaints about the original Seyoun tires in the handling department, they are soft and grippy.

[Mikd]

Have a Clash 200 on order. Fingers crossed its a decent little runabout. Glad this place is here for info as I like to tinker.

[Mudflap]

Have a Clash 200 on order. Fingers crossed its a decent little runabout. Glad this place is here for info as I like to tinker.
Hope yours arrives without shipping damage. Chinese bikes are great for those who like to tinker. Parts are super cheap.

[Mikd]

Arrived today, packaging was clean. Hopefully assemble it tomorrow.

[Mikd]

Great looking scooter

[Mikd]

Question, has anyone experienced the electronic speedo not registering speed? Seems to happen about 1/3 of the time.

[Mikd]

Pic

[clash 168cc]

Check your connections. must be a speed sensor on the wheel somewhere. Mine is showing over actual speed between 3 to 7 mph like most of them. There's a wire going to the right side of the front axle. That could be it. Yours may have not been hooked up yet at the wheel, display or computer. I see the wire in your picture attached to the right fork but not hooked up correctly maybe when the front wheel was put on.

[Mudflap]

Question, has anyone experienced the electronic speedo not registering speed? Seems to happen about 1/3 of the time.
Pic doesn't show up for me but make sure the tabs on the speedo sensor are in the slots in the wheel hub and that the tab on the speedo sensor housing is properly positioned so it is held from turning by the fork.

[Mikd]

Pic refused to load for some reason. The speedo pickup is positioned correctly on the wheeel hub. It seems to be an electronic issue, if I stop and cycle the key off and restart it works properly.

Added some led lighting to the inside the red reflector on the top case, anything to help with visibility for distracted drivers

[Dblack5939]

I've gotten over 3,000 miles on mine but, this scooter is hard to work on because of how it's designed.

[Dblack5939]

Hello, I am new to this forum but have been following . I have a clash 200 efi and my belt shredded into pieces and there isn't anyone that knows the correct size. I took it all apart which was easy. I didn't have to remove the peg but I did take a bolt off by the peg and it dropped it enough to remove the cover. Does anyone know what size belt it is? Thanks in advance.
Hey, I was wondering if you took a pic of how you got the belt off without removing the peg? If so could you post something?

[clash 168cc]

I had to wiggle while holding in the kick start shaft. The first time the kick start came apart. You may have to re-weld/move the foot peg. Someone else said remove a motor mount to drop the engine lower.

[Mudflap]

Hey, I was wondering if you took a pic of how you got the belt off without removing the peg? If so could you post something?


If you remove the lower shock bolt and swing it out of the way you can lift the rear wheel which will swing the engine toward the rear. That gives you almost enough clearance to remove the belt cover. I also had to do a little grinding on the wire loop on the foot peg mount.

[ChroMiikey]

I've got about 2,500 miles so far, and my rear tire is surprisingly low wear. Didn't get lucky with the variator tho. The rollers would dislodge, so I bought a replacement, but it was too small for the shaft. I used the back plate off the original and the rest of the new part, and it worked awhile, but issues started again.

Anyone have a part # or link to a proper replacement?

Other than the variator, the rear outside wheel bearing is making concerning noise. Looking for the part now, trying to find it without taking her apart to measure it by hand. The Clash is OK so far, but I'm dreading a problem involving hard to find parts.

[Mudflap]

I've replaced both tires with Michelins. Rear was ready at 3000 miles.

No problem with variator but here are the measurements:
Rollers 12.66 grams 18mm diameter, 14mm wide
Boss 23.96mm outer diameter, inside diameter 17.02mm, 51.5mm long
Variator is about 111.125mm in diameter

I did see the right size replacement on eBay listed as being for a 161QMK engine. Also you can order parts from Vitacci. Text 857-703-6009 for parts, send vin, pic of part, description of part, pic of scooter. When I ordered a spare thermistor from them a few months ago they got back to me by text within 5 minutes.

Also if you're hearing a rubber on metal squeek from the right side bearing it's normal and can be stopped with a squirt of oil or just ignored, it's just a dry dust seal.

[ChroMiikey]

I got a reply from texting the phone number, but they are out of varistors. I'm considering purchasing a quality variator and taking it to a machine shop to enlarge the opening for the driveshaft. My rollers are getting eaten up for some reason. It's noise at this point, maybe some vibration. They want a picture of the bearing, but I'm not measuring it for awhile since the noise is faint with regular applications of PB Blaster.

Do you know the diameter of the driveshaft hole on the backplate of the variator?

I'll give the engine solid points, at least 4/5 so far. Even air cooled, it operates well up to about 105F or so. It is handling 100F quite well for hours at a time, even with lots of idling. I don't push it, but it's been very dependable. I'd like it to last to 5000 miles. Many of us are about halfway there at this point.

[Mudflap]

Don't know why the rollers would get messed up but maybe try some sliders. The crankshaft diameter is 17mm and the hole in the boss is 17.02mm.

Check post #126 in this thread for all the measurements.

Last for only 5000 miles? Should last over 50,000 miles IMO.

[ChroMiikey]

I got some sliders and graphite, and will rebuild the CVT tonight.

I got the dreaded hesitation and engine killer symptom at about 3,000 mi. It would start missing at steady RPM, then eventually got a little worse, and has died three or four times and the last 300 miles, once while going about 30 mph. It's not the spark plug. My first guess is the TPS, but I'll change the coil pack or CDI first since I don't know where I'm going to find a TPS. I'll get in there at some point and look for a part number, surely there are ATVs or similar that use the same TPS.

[Mudflap]

I have heard of the plug caps failing internally.

[Davidhafkin]

On my clash my speedo has been working intermittently. I've checked the wheel hub and the wiring behind the gauge cluster and everything checks out. It seems to work every time until I start the engine. Then it stops working sometimes. I find if I turn off scooter with key and turn back on, it works fine. Anyone have any suggestions??

[Mudflap]

https://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=2288

[ChroMiikey]

Has anyone done a valve adjustment yet?

Parts guys are getting back to me on the spark plug wire with attached coil. There's a # on the coil, but couldn't find info. Anyone know of an aftermarket equivalent on Amazon or eBay?

[Mudflap]

Has anyone done a valve adjustment yet?


Yes, a couple of times.

[Davidhafkin]

Fyi...
Just took off the front fairing and trim pieces around the speedo to fix my seat button and speedo that was not working. If you need to do this search under YouTube for fairing removal or speedo not working for a Honda click. The clash is the same scooter as the click. Some of the videos are good to watch and show you how to do it with no sound because they are in another language.
Just putting this out there for my fellow clash owners.

[ChroMiikey]

Mudflap, were you able to adjust the valves in place?

Also, I think I already asked, but anyone have a part # for the coil, or know if there's an aftermarket or equivalent Honda coil that works the same or better? I suspect the fuel flow isn't super efficient and is flooding just a little bit

[Mudflap]

Mudflap, were you able to adjust the valves in place?

Also, I think I already asked, but anyone have a part # for the coil, or know if there's an aftermarket or equivalent Honda coil that works the same or better? I suspect the fuel flow isn't super efficient and is flooding just a little bit


Pretty easy to adjust valves. Remove seat and storage bucket, remove black plastic piece in front of engine, remove valve cover. Intake valve is easy to reach, exhaust isn't too bad.

[ChroMiikey]

Unable to get ahold of Parts people, anyone else have any luck?

This coil looks identical, so I'm going to try it, ordering today if Parts folks don't reply.

Would love your opinion, Mudflap : Ignition Coil Compatible with Kawasaki 21121-2064 21121-2076 21121-2083 John Deere AM120732 fits models FD440 FD501V FD590V FD611V FD620D FD661D https://a.co/d/1Hdz01S

[Mudflap]

Unable to get ahold of Parts people, anyone else have any luck?

This coil looks identical, so I'm going to try it, ordering today if Parts folks don't reply.

Would love your opinion, Mudflap : Ignition Coil Compatible with Kawasaki 21121-2064 21121-2076 21121-2083 John Deere AM120732 fits models FD440 FD501V FD590V FD611V FD620D FD661D https://a.co/d/1Hdz01S
Likely any 12v coil will work as long as you can mount it.

[ChroMiikey]

Thanks for all of your excellent guidance, MudFlap.

I've searched all throughout the forums to locate your recommended valve clearance, and can't find it. Memory tells me .008 for both, and that matches the plate on my scooter, do you concur?

PS I'll add for the record that the part number listed on the fuel injector is the generic part number, but I could only find them overseas. Part # MV1-080-B -- I have one on order that is promised by Nov 7.

[Mudflap]

Valves .06mm to .08mm on both intake & exhaust
(.00236" to .00315") per plate on bike

[Notbostrom]

Anyone figure out if you can adjust the brightness of the speedo? Way to bright at night

[Mikd]

Added a windshield. Will be curious if it has any effect on top speed.

[pete]

Added a windshield. Will be curious if it has any effect on top speed.

Why would it? ....window screen is a far more aerodynamic surface
than your chest and wrinkly jacket the air would be hitting if it was not there..


..

[Mudflap]

Added a windshield. Will be curious if it has any effect on top speed.
Mine gets slightly better top speed and MPG with a windshield. A truly aerodynamic windshield would make a bigger difference.

[Mikd]

Interesting, I suppose it could actually clean up the aerodynamics a bit. Now to wait for spring to find out.

[Mikd]

Any consensus on roughly how long the drive belts last? Thinking of carrying a spare.

[krat]

I got an increase in MPG when I installed a windscreen on my 150cc scoot.

I have a little over 2k miles on my drive belt so far and it still looks new. Your "200" is only 15cc larger than mine and we share most parts.

Carrying a spare DB is often not a real prep for emergency since many times you can not get a new drive belt on the machine without impact tools or at least a breaker bar for removal of the variator pulleys.

The best way to prepare for a broken belt is to have your cell phone charged and know the number of a real good friend that owns a pickup truck and set of ramps.

[Mudflap]

I can't say how long belts last but I do carry a spare along with tools to replace it. Tools to replace the belt include a pin spanner to hold the variator and a 17mm wrench for the nut along with a 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets, and jis screwdriver.

[Mikd]

Installed some LED's inside of the red reflector on the rear top case and wired them into the power for the brake light. Seems to work well.

[Mudflap]

More light when riding after dark is always better.

[polodinks]

need help i bought a clash 200 it was a theft recovery bike... i got a new ignition switch but they clipped the plug on the harness side would anyone be able to post a pic of the male side of the ignition switch harness so i can get the wiring fixed and start wiring please

[Davidhafkin]

I have a clash 200 and I'm trying to change the belt but can't get the cvt cover off. I took out all the bolts all around it but it won't budge. Feels like I'm missing a bolt but don't see anymore to remove. What am I missing??? Please help. Thanks

[danklyrides]

Have you removed the kick start lever? Once you have that off, there should be 8 bolts around the edge to remove. The 2 in the back are longer and the other 6 are all the same length. If you have all 8 of those bolts out you should be able to pull the cover off. There are 2 dowel pins that help align the cover with the case so those could be binding a little bit. I wouldn't be afraid to do some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet, especially if it is the first time the cover has been removed.

One other note, when you reinstall the cover you will have to slide the kickstart lever back onto the shaft and rotate it a little bit counter clockwise as you push the cover on. This is needed to get the kickstart gear teeth engaging properly and to allow the cover to sit flush before you start putting the bolts back in. If the cover won't slide on and sit flush then your kickstarter is not aligned properly so make sure to fix it before you tighten any bolts.

I hope this helps. Cheers!
Dankly

[Davidhafkin]

Thanks for help. I did remove the kick starter and the bolts you mentioned. I'll try the mallet. Thanks very much.

[Mudflap]

Adjusted valves on the Clash this morning, approaching 5000 miles. They had loosened a bit since the last adjustment. Set them back to .0025"/.003". Running fine, no issues.

[Mudflap]

I've been trying different roller weights and for me riding at 4000' to 6500' 12 gram rollers work best. I've tested 14 gram and 16 gram rollers, and 14 gram sliders. Stock rollers weigh 12.5 grams.

[CrescentMoon]

Hello! I recently bought a Vitacci Clash 200 this past May (2024), and the rear wheel got a flat. I took it to a mechanic, but he is having trouble getting the rear wheel off. Is there anything you guys can explain that would help him? I’m not an advanced bike expert by any means, so not sure how to help him.He claims that everything in the back is “connected,” as in won’t come off without taking the entire back half off.

[Mudflap]

Find a better mechanic.



Remove muffler, remove swing arm muffler support, slide wheel off shaft. The tire must be deflated to squeeze it out past the engine and to put it back on.

[CrescentMoon]

I intend to find a better one. Apparently the bolt to the tire is seized, so the mechanic refused to work on it further. But thank you for helping, I may end up doing this myself if no one else will.

[CrescentMoon]

What type of brake pads work for the Vitacci Clash? Brand and size, I’ve looked online to order but am unable to find sizing anywhere. I will be replacing them myself if anyone can help!