XPRO wouldn't provide a phone number for contact information so Powersportsmax it was. I agree with both you and tkjn99, the Templar models provide a LOT more for not much money. As an official old fart I require a little less performance and prefer a shorter wheelbase and lower seat height. Really appreciate the information and feedback.:thanks:

Well, that would explain the disconnected lead under the tank; if I ground it out, the 6th gear pops up on the display.. That's some good info though! I'm still piddling with the gearing on my Titan DLX but, 70MPH is surprising. Man, I want 6 gears so bad lol just ONE more gear, and it would be almost perfect. Hell of a lot more comfortable I bet, that's for sure!

I'm going to definitely get the 14T gear BUT... there are two different ones that are possibly a match, three really. I need to measure the spline again just to really know - but, the JTF328 is a match, I've been using the JTF1329, and I just saw the JTF1554 might be a fit too. The stock 13T does have a little lip on the engine side, and is pretty beefy. The 1554 seemed more like the stock dimensions to me - no complaints from the 1329, but only 12T and 13T. I found out 12T is max for an O or X ring chain, but it wears a little on the sprocket walls.. kinda thick. So, I'm running Niche standard chains from now on. My current gearing is 13T stock front / 40T rear @ 70MPHish. Ish because downhill I can hit 76MPH lol but a good gust of wind is needed as well. But have hit 76MPH via GPS WOT / 70MPH comfortably (minus the vibrations). The 14T front will hopefully provide a few more MPH? Hopefully.. Getting this thing up to 55MPH+ isn't hard, but good lord - it turns into a vibrator on wheels!! :lmao: still love it for what it can do though :tup: It has survived a pretty nice fall into some rock - not quite a tank. Lost a few parts, but started up after a few min - no issues.


Keeping that 6 gear model in my mind for sure - might be a future purchase!

This is the 14T I have on mine but you will need to shave down the inside of the sprocket cover.. see my previous post on that with pics:

JT Sprockets JTF328.14 14T Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVOMOI...p_mob_ap_share

The nice thing about the Templar as well is that it has a carb for those that want to be able to get more performance out of the bike without headache of if/how to flash an ecu

Well, it arrived about noon today. 2 issues, the front fender looked like someone took a hacksaw to it and the SOI had dirt bike instead of motorcycle. Called them up and figured out the process for parts replacement and they said a new SOI will be sent. removed front wheel and tightened spokes/aligned wheel. lubed the bearings and removed triple trees to tap a zerk in the steering head. A good day. Edit to add . What's the fork oil capacity?

I drilled and tapped the steering head for lubrication of steering bearings. R+R fork oil ,adjusted the valves, blocked/removed EGR junk. Installed new CDI and oiled the filter. Getting ready to install the front wheel. All pretty good so far.

Titan is looking great:tup:

Does that orange box add-on or replace existing CDI ??

I am wondering if it is an alternative to advance key for a slight advance. I wonder how many degrees it really advanced the spark? Electronic advance is a a common superbike mod, like Dynojet Power commander, which has maybe five advance curves to choose from.

FYI, I think it is a bad apple at R&L. My metal frame around the bike on my first Templar X crate was bent over the tail section, and there was a bunch of oil all over the rear tire, and more on the front of the crate near the forks clamped in. Also, the crate was on end (no kidding) in the truck when it arrived!!! I think this caused the front wheel to bounce on something, and the black surface on the front wheel was dinged repeatedly in that spot.

I cleaned up the oil and found NO OIL source opened on the bike:crazy:

And, the middle lower section under the bike was crushed as if dropped!

This did NOT come like this from the warehouse! I bought from PSM. They sent me a right foot pegs, though I didn't really need it. PSM was good. Fortunately, the bikes are pretty tough:tup:

It replaces the stock CDI and probably advances slightly. After a bad experience with a flywheel key on my Brozz I'm going to stick with it as is and just plan on uncorking the exhaust

A question for the collective. My rear shock has a charge valve for nitrogen, what is the proper pressure for the shock?

Could it be just old fuel? 2020 seems very new to me for a carb that is toast! Maybe just clean the carb and with fresh fuel things might go better. Also check your valve clearance. Just my thoughts…

Oh, the fuel was definitely bad. Ya know that foul smell it gets when it goes bad.. haha. The lines and filter are all now clear. The problem with the stock carb is that I can't figure out how to open up the bowl to clean it?? I will snag a picture tomorrow but there are rivets or something instead of screws so it seems like the best option is to just buy a carb that I can re-jet easily, no? Maybe I am missing something with this carb.

A little bit premature but I'm also looking into Henner's kits for more power, though I haven't even ridden the thing yet.

Can anyone confirm that the CRF230 big bore kits and camshafts will or won't work on the Titan DLX (223cc?)? I can't find any confirmation. Hoping maybe Plump or Obrien can chime in

You can use a dremel to notch a line in each rivet to allow a flat head screwdriver to remove each screw. Just so you know the pilot is odd and most kits won't work. Easiest way to go is to replace with a VM26 and then use a standard kit to be able to change the pilot, main plus allows for adjusting the clip on the needle jet which with stock you need to shim with a washer or two