I see where you are going. It would require having a belt that is just right in length. I think that the factory tensioner with a spring would work.

Again, you're brilliant. The tensioner wouldn't require a specific belt length. Hope you snag a centrifugal clutch for a good price.

I hope so too. I don't want to spend $50 for one. The idea is to stay cheap, but the clutch is such a good idea it may be worth the money.

Need to trade some more junk.

I really hope it works for you. If the idle is low enough, the clutch should stay below the engagement threshold, which would allow for easy shifting. You wouldn't be able to bang gears at full throttle, but this tractor isn't for you anyway. :lol:

Have you ever tried running gear oil instead of grease in a transmission / transaxle? I keep reading about it online as the preferred lubrication method.

The engine shaft is 7/8".

The transmission is only forward and reverse, but it needs to be stopped to be shifted.

I believe the clutch said 2K engagement. Should be able to get the idle below that.

Bought one of these. Hopefully it will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220844777521...84.m1439.l2649

I also want a brake of some sort.

That looks like a good score. Any idea what brand it is? If it's a common brand (like Comet), it'll be rebuildable. COuld you use a cable or rod actuated disc brake? I have a Comet caliper, and you could use a #35 sprocket as a rotor.

I don't know the brand, but it looks like the noram clutches.

It may be possible to use the rear sprocket and just mount a caliper. I need to measure the axle diameter to see what will fit.

If you try to use the existing rear sprocket as a rotor, the pads will become contaminated by chain oil. It's best to mount another sprocket elsewhere, and it can't be thicker than #35, IIRC.

Good point on the oil. Didn't think of that.

Are you gonna need the caliper that I have?

Not sure, let me think about how we are going to go about it first.

One possibility is to measure the diameter of the rear axle, and then see if you can find a weld-on hub that matches it (like a W or whatever). You could weld a #35 sprocket to it and then secure the hub to the axle shaft with the supplied set screws, and even tack weld it for extra insurance. The only remaining puzzle would be mounting the caliper.

I just measured the rear axle. 3/4" The rear wheels are only 9.5 inches tall so a small diameter rotor would be necessary. I have no problem welding a hub in place to hold it.

Can you find a hub locally that has a 3/4" ID and will accept a #35 sprocket? If not, I can check at Princess.

Also, do you have a way to mount a caliper?