I'm guessing perhaps you may have been running with the petcock in the reserve position and really drained all of the gas and were lucky to get a couple ounces left for the remaining 5 miles. With that being said im wondering what the correct position is for reserve. Generally with the arrow side pointing down, that's reserve (handle side pointing up) but on my Titan it was the opposite. I'm running the Templar X with arrow pointing up assuming thats normal position. What position do you keep it in under normal riding?

Update: changed the oil today at 100 miles and 0 metallic shards in the filter screen, yay!
Here's a pic of the plug, i think it looks ok.. the bike runs great at all throttle positions, im at 600ft elevation. the only thing i notice is popping on deceleration.
I also started to hear a buzzing sound at certain rpm's but don't find anything loose, thats quite annoying, hopefully will figure it out.
Also, PSM mailed me replacement mirrors but ugh! they are wrong ones and look like something you find on a scooter! I emailed them to that effect and they are pushing back that the stock mirrors are out of stock and these round ones will work with my response being imagine having a Toyota that you needed replacement side mirrors and the dealer sent you something off a Chevy, cmon guys! I'm hoping they make it right,
will update accordingly

I guess I run the fuel petcock like you do. I just went out to the shop and studied out the fuel system and it looks like maybe reserve may just draw from the right side of the tank. A normal reserve draws from the last couple of inches of the gas tank but the Templar system is different. My RXB only goes a few miles before running out on reserve so I guess it didn't surprise me when the Templar did. I know I was some kinda shaking it as it started to run out and it would go a little farther 'till it didn't any more. I was looking at those 5 liter spare gas cans that lay flat or vertical on the rack. Has anyone used those and do they work good? Your spark plug looks good, gotta check mine after I rejetted.

Found the buzzing culprit.. was the exhaust heat shield.. (despite being tight).. removed it and will keep as is for now. Plan to uncork the cat at some point as well and would probably replace the shield afterwards to cover any unsightly weld marks

Update: PSM will be refunding me $15 for the mirrors which should cover the cost of a similar replacement set i found on Amazon.. good on them to again make it right after a few email exchanges

Saturday ride with my son

Wheel misalignment?
 

Hi tknj99. New here. So does this not misalign the rear wheel from center, or is such a small amount not a big deal? Have you found any other method to change the mount location of the caliper instead? I feel like I would prefer that in my ongoing build if possible.

how much drag do you see? i assumed they were getting some serious drag.
if you see just a little, then dont worry.... time will take care of it.... new pad will wear off, i think

It's a thin washer similar to the one on the outside so doesn't affect alignment but it makes a very big effect on drag. Before it was hard to spin and now much better; not 100% but like 80% improvement and the rest will work itself out with wear

So I've noticed a vibration between 40 and 60mph which feels like a wheel issue. I've trued both wheels as best as I can and don't see any high spots and pressure at 25psi. It's just an annoyance when I'm on pavement. The vendor claims it's normal and that lowering air pressure will fix but I know it's not. Could the wheels need balancing? Has anyone else noticed the same?
I also ensured that front rebound wasn't soft so it's not pogo effect causing it. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks

I have now ran up to 70mph as indicated on speedo both on gravel:crazy: and paved with no noticeable/unusual vibe's. I am however running 20 psi and have swapped to a 40t rear with the suspension set pretty soft. But even before those changes I didn't experience any noticeable or unusual vibe's 40-60 mph.

Today i adjusted the valves to be in spec as discussed on the forum @.002. To do that, i tightened down on a .003 feeler and forcefully pulled out the feeler. That is the best method i've found to get at the correct spec. Started her up and she fired up immediately and seems quieter as well. Unfortunately, the reving sputter and die issue when cold still occurs, i'm planning on working on the carb next to address that

Update: had to order a replacement carb since i botched the removal of the tamper proof red-locktited screws (grind the heads off next time lol)..
Today i received the replacement Amazon carb and this is an exact duplicate of the stock carb with the benefits including: no tamper screws, exposed a/f screw, big idle turn knob, adjustable needle (as well as now having spare carb parts). The only thing extra i needed to do was pop on a vacuum cap on an exposed inlet. Installed with 42 pilot, 125 main, needle at middle position and a/f 3 turns out and its running like a champion

Note about the carb in the link: it says PE30 but its actually a 28mm carb as required

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

Update: just passed the 500mi mark and done with break-in.. can now wind- her out fully (yay). also changed the oil..
with regard to the wheels feeling out-of-balance between 40-60mph, i've found that keeping the tire pressure above 30psi helps alot on the pavement, perhaps thats a sign that a balancing is needed - luckily a friend has a motorcycle wheel balancer with weights for next time i head that way

It's pretty easy to balance it yourself at home if you choose, you can get stick on weights that work pretty good at harbor freight

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_pcK6LfBwI