Not a big deal with the wrong oil type. Maybe change the oil a bit sooner for the next go around just to ensure you got the rest of the "bad" stuff out, but it should be fine.

As far as the oil leak. Is it at the head gasket or the base of the cylinder where it meets the engine cases? This seems to pop up from time to time. You can check the head bolt torque to make sure one or two aren't loose. This will require taking the rocker assembly off, but it is pretty easy - 3 bolts. Then you will see the 4 head bolts. The torque spec is kind of generalized, but I have my head set to 28ft-lbs. Just go over them in a cross cross pattern like you would a 4 lug car wheel.

If that doesn't stop the leak then either the head gasket or base gasket may have been damaged during assembly. You can buy both as a pair for about 10-12 bucks on ebay.

As far as the bike starting, running, and sounding better. It's amazing what a proper valve adjustment can do ain't it?

The running issues you are experiencing aren't uncommon. To really get it to run properly it will require upping the main jet size to at least a 105, shimming the needle with at least 1 shim, and uncapping and turning the idle mixture screw out to around 1 1/2 turns from seated. This is a pretty good baseline carb setup for most stock Hawks and Magicians.

Thanks for all your insightful information. I tried to get it running and with no luck. The bike won't stay on without constant throttle with the choke on. So what could be the most likely culprit?

Well, in general, it's too lean. If you leave the choke on until it is hot and then open the choke up (turn it off) does it run better, or does it only ever run with the choke on, no matter what?

I can only keep it running with the choke on. I stayed at least 10 to 15 mins and I couldn't keep it running on half choke.

That makes me suspect a vacuum leak. Check the condition of the O-ring seals on the intake to the head surface, and on the carb to the intake surface. Check the intake over very well for any rips, tears, or holes in the rubber and that the flange surfaces on it are flat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SmxZbohEck4BCTYk1
O-ring in Carb
Well I looked at the O-ring on the carb side and found this above.

I didn't pull out the other O-ring yet but it was snug in the seal.

Looks like you found the problem.:tup:

Where can I find the same O-ring size at?

I am fairly certain there is a Honda OEM O-ring that is the same size, but you have a couple of other options.

You could buy this kit, which includes an O-ring that will work. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Set...ceBeautifyAB=0

Otherwise, if you can measure the inside diameter of the O-ring, and a rough thickness I can try to hunt down a Honda part number that will work.

That, or head to your local parts store and try to match up an O ring that can work.

You should be able to match up the o-ring at your local hardware store or auto parts.

Harbor Freight is likely to have an assorted o-ring kit that'll have a match.

Thanks guys! I am headed to an autozone after work and try my luck there.

I'm with Weldangrind, Harbor Freight has a nice package of O-rings in a plastic case, maybe they have the right one?


https://www.harborfreight.com/180-pi...kit-67525.html

I think those are in mm. There aren't any in that package that are big enough...ARH :cry:

Maybe these but I cant remember if I actually seen them in the store.

If you use the slide bar below the picture you can zoom in and see the sizes that are in the box.

https://www.harborfreight.com/397-pi...ent-67580.html