Ripcuda, you might be pleasantly surprised to find tapered roller bearings in the steering neck, vs loose ball bearings. I found tapered rollers in my Lifan.

I actually removed the tank shroud and air scoops. I like the tank on its own, and I got lucky with the three gallon version. I did not get the counterbalanced version.

Keep the 46 tooth for sure! I did not see that it was geared that way already. I just assumed you had a 56?! Someone at Kinroad must have realized the 56 tooth rears were not quite cutting it. I would still go to a 16 or 17 tooth front, however. These things are still quite torquey. My TMEC is a 48 tooth rear (not stock, I had to source one from the UK), 17 tooth front (that was stock), and it still is peaky and not smooth on the high-speed part of my commute, but I do think I am hitting a little over 60 mph (in 50 mph zone, but my fellow commuters ride my a%$) :(

Your bike is in excellent condition, i have a ´05 200 GY-1, very similar to yours, but mine is a lot more beat up.

Thanks.

So I worked on getting it started for the first time (for me) tonight. I fixed the burnt starter relay wires but was still only getting a buzzing noise from the relay when I tried to crank the engine over. I thought maybe the relay was bad... but it checked out. Then I thought maybe the starter was bad. I was about to remove the exhaust to get the starter out when I thought... wait a minute. What about the battery? Yes, it reads 12.5 volts and the lights all work... but maybe it's all surface voltage and it has no amps. Well... sure enough. I get a known good battery and a cranking we go. So, need a new battery. Not surprised, it looks like it was the original one.

So good spark on the plug, carb cleaned, gas tank cleaned, fresh gas. Time to light it off. It almost started the first try. Then I played with the choke... and that wasn't helping. Then I grabbed a handful of throttle and it started and ran. But not very smoothly. I had to keep a hand on the throttle... it wouldn't idle... even with idle speed screw turned all the way in. So bitter sweet. But it does run!

It's got to be the carb. It was pretty varnished but i did clean it out pretty well and the jets were cleaned out and open. I might have missed something. I even opened up the slow jet with the next size up #'ed drill bit. Probably why it didn't seem to want any choke... but still wouldn't run without some throttle. I have the mixture screw set at 1 turn out. It was 3/4 turn out "stock". Perhaps I should try more. I'm ready just to replace the carb... but all the cheap Mikuni clones are gone. Only $35 ones from China (like 3 weeks to get) now. Although replacement PZ30 carbs like I got are $20 from US shippers. Hmmm...

I was worried a little about valve clearances. I set them to .002" (I) and .003" (E)... with feeler gauges snuggly fitting. So I'm ruling that out for now.

The exhaust note when running (not high revs, but had to hold throttle open) was pretty forceful. It was sharp pop-pop-pop soundign... not the softer put-put-put sound I expected... like from my old Trail 90 or my son's TTR-90. Possible clogged exhaust? I would have thought cam timing was off... but this is a simple OHV engine.

Thanks for the ideas!

Cheers!

Here's a Mikuni in the US: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIKUNI-30mm-...4d987b&vxp=mtr

What position is the c-clip on the needle in the carb? That has usually helped me greatly regarding cold starts and idle.

I suspect that since the slow jet is drilled out, the pilot mixture screw needs to be closed a bit.

The carb was originally set to lowest c-clip slot (bringing needle higher) of the 5... and 3/4 turns out on mixture screw. I cleaned it good (slow jet was varnished clogged), opened up the pilot jet just a tad, set needle c-clip to middle slot and set mixture screw to 1 turn out.

I'm going to go through the carb again tonight and put it all back to "stock" (minus pilot jet). We'll see what that yields.

Thanks for the tips and ideas!

Cheers!

Pulled the carb back off last night, took it apart and inspected.

My PZ-30 Keihin clone carb uses normal looking Keihin jets.
The main jet is a 102 and closest fits a #60 drill bit which is .040" which is 1.016mm... or 102. My slow/pilot jet is a 38 and the #79 (.0145"/.368mm) drill bit fit and the #78 (.016"/.406mm) was easy to twist through. Then I drilled the #77 (.018"/.457) through in my attempt to open it up a bit. I'm thinking I may have opened it up a little too much... now being ~45 slow jet.

So... I'm thinking I'm rich on the bottom (jet big now) while being still lean on the top (102 jet)... which would explain why the needle was full up (lowest c-clip slot). I'm going to put the needle back to that position and turn in the mixture screw some (maybe 1/2 turn out) and see what that yields me.

I ordered a PZ-30 rebuild kit that comes with a 110 main (should be ideal) and another 38 pilot (might need tweaking)... so I lots of carb tuning to come. :doh:

Checked the exhaust and it is free and clear... outta be with so few miles on the bike. And the petcock is flowing plenty in both on and res... so good there.

Cheers!

If the slow jet is too large, the mixture screw likely needs to be turned in, not out.

Agreed... mixture screw in for less fuel.

So I got the doubly-clean carb back on again. And got it all button back up and ready to start again. Still running the same. Won't idle without holding the throttle open some. I adjusted the mixture screw from all the way closed... to 1 turn out... and it didn't do much. I'm pretty convinced I opened up the pilot jet too much and it's WAY to rich on the bottom. The plug is black and wet...

So... guess I'll wait on my rebuild kit and put that in... a #110main and #38 pilot. It had a #102main and #38 pilot stock... until I drilled out the pilot to ~ #45. Live and learn. Next time... get it running on the stock setting *before* moding! :)

Guess I'll have time now to go through the front forks and steering head... then finish up my son's PW-50.

Cheers!

Still waiting on my carb rebuild kit. Hope that stock pilot jet fixes my issue.

In the meantime, I pulled apart the forks and steering head. The fork are like new... so I only opened up the caps and drained and replaced the fluid. Looked like clean regular oil in them. Both had same amount... good... I replaced with same amount too.

The steering head was sadly not roller bearings. Just the standard, cheap, cage-less ball bearings (20 of em) top and bottom. The steering was oddly stiff to the left and notchy to start. That was because of 2 broken ball bearings in the bottom. I swapped top for bottom ball bearing and added two new ones to the top. All lubed up and smooth steering now.

Not much else to do now... but fix the carb... get it running right and off I go. Can't wait!

Cheers!

Bummer about the bearings; I can't believe that two were broken!

I hope your rebuild kit arrives soon.

My PZ30 carb rebuild kit came early... nice! So back into the carb I go. I quickly realized my issue. The kit came with a new needle seat... the small piece under the main jet holder tube... that protrudes slightly up into the area under the slide... that the slide needle seats into. Well... my carb was missing this piece. D'oh! No wonder it ran like crap!

Well... got it assembled again with all the rebuild pieces. The main and pilot jets were marked with the Keihin "K" symbol (clones?). The kit main jet was a #110 and the pilot was a #38. I set the mixture screw at 1 turn out and reinstalled the carb.

I'm happy to say it started on-choke and actually idled! I'm pretty stoked. It's still running too lean though. I turned the mix-screw out at least 2 turns and it was still hanging revs and popping on decel. The plug is ashen white too. But I did putz it around the yard in first gear (hey... the gears shift and work!). Put a whopping 0.8 miles on it! haha.

So next up. Gonna check for a carb to engine air leak (starting fluid method). Assuming that isn't the issue, the carb will come off again and I'll put in my oversized (~#45) pilot jet back in and give it a whirl. Once I get the bottom end jetted right, we'll move on to street testing and the upper range jetting. I'm hoping the #110 main will be sufficient there. I love carbs....

Cheers!

Rebuild kit cames in different grades .
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=5657877189 | http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=2849492417
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The shop above is form a city known for their clone carb industry...