Acerbis Dry Break conversion fitting,,
I like this idea but would have to find something cheaper.

umm im sure fiberglass and bondo are gas resistant

so take the gas tank off rough up the plastic around the cap,
cut out the cap.
drill a few holes for the fiberglass resin to really adhear to ,
then build up the resin until the Acerbis Dry Break conversion fitting fits nice.
at this point i would paint the worked area.
add gasket then predrill and thread lock and bolt down the Acerbis Dry Break conversion fitting.

Umm since the tank is off and being worked on i would rough up the plastic seam a little and streginthen with a few layers of fiberglass.

if Acerbis Dry Break conversion fitting wasnt so much I would be the first to do this.
my gas leaks out when its full and im riding on rough roads.

so if someone can find a Dry Break conversion fitting for $20 or less ill post pictures of me doing the project

or instead of attaching the resin to the gas tank with its own adhesion you could.

lay masking tape and wax the tape and lay your fiberglass resin on that , let it dry, then it will remove off the tape like a mold, thenrough up the tank plastic, then epoxie it to the tank.

what do you think will be a more solid way of doing it??

Diamo cap gushes
 

I've always hated this flaw so thanks all for your brainstorming. I never fuel up with more than 1 gallon, otherwise it'll be splashing out even on tame roads.

I was thinking duct tape...and if that fails...a sledge hammer :twisted:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alumi...spagenameZWDVW


is this just pressure fit?

I have had no probs with my gas cap yet.....hopefully I never do.maybe you can find a rubber plug or something to fit.good luck! :?

Double check the tank filler seal and the black rubber gasket on the cap. They should be making a good seal. I know it is possible to latch the cap and still not make a good flush seal. I found this oddity when I kept smelling gasoline after a fill-up. I pushed a little harder on the cap and VOILÀ it snapped again and I never worried about that again.

If you still leak that badly after double checking the cap, I would cut a ring of coffee can lid the size the black rubber seal, then snip it across so it resembles a big plastic lock-washer, then place it UNDER the factory rubber seal to preclude gasoline destruction...Although I don't think gasoline destroys that type of plastic. That should give a better seal!

It's a 5 min fix and costs nothing.

That would be my first effort.

And you should check the plane of contact on the filler neck itself. there could be a dimple or dent allowing the fuel to escape. (although probably not at the rate you described, which makes me believe that the cap seal on that fateful day was not fully secure).

Close-up pics would help us to better understand the problem, if you could provide 8O

Keep us posted,
Tigertamer

We replaced the original springs inside the cap with stiffer ones on ours. This did the trick for keeping the cap on straight and tight.

well I looked last night, and I tried the plastic Flap think I talked about....NO GOOD! There is not enough room for the flap.

I have thought about a new cap, but I can't find one online.

Where did you find a stiffer spring?

I will let everyone know what I come up with.

I plan on stopping by the honda dealer today and see what they have....

Can I have your old cap? 8O

Tigertamer

TigertamerI am going to try putting the coffe lid thing underneath the seal. hopefully that will shim it some...


fatboy250Can I take apart and put back together the gas cap pretty easy?

Please double check the fitment of the gas cap to filler neck seal also. Look for any signs of misalignment or gaps! Sand smooth if necessary but don't contaminate your fuel. Drain and flush if possible if you must resurface the cap to neck seat.

Hope this is all you need 8O

Please let us know if things go south,
Tigertamer

WWW.CHINA-PARTS.CO.UK

These guys in the UK have gas caps for GY'S, they are good I got a GY tailight and turn signals from them and they fit better than the originals!

:D

Sorry I've been away for a while. Yes the base of the cap can be taken apart if it looks like the kind found in my gallery. The springs might be a bit harder to find I'm afraid. The ones that we used were some that Dad had at his work and I'm not sure if he even knows where they came from. Interesting though, the new cap on the 2007 DB-07B Shineray is identical and there have been no issues with the cap in over 3500miles. So, I guess they figured it out back in CHINATOWN :lol:

Jason