I see that your description has the rear frame pivoting, not removed. Your photos showed it entirely removed. But you still have to remove the muffler to pivot the frame. But as I said, you can easily remove the rear shock through the bottom. Just remove the top mounting bolt and the linkage. I have a spring compression tool so I can compress it and tighten the adjustment collar by hand. It is easier on those threads (aluminum), and reinstallation of the shock is easy.

And removing the carb is easy if you remove the exhaust. Removing the exhaust is easier than pivoting the frame too. It is just less work.

No need to mess with the rear frame.

Not quite getting the rear shock adjustment. After immediately seeing the wrench I use on other bikes would in no way get in there I just grabbed a very long and skinny punch. Ground the end nice and flat and tapped it with a hammer until I got it to where I thought I might like it and test rode. Took like three minutes maybe. This is a '23 X, as we know not all Templars are 100% the same.

Lowering your bike, shorter rear shock method
 

Here is the thread in the Dual Sport section about lowering the Templar X. I thought I should add a link to this thread to the resource guide so it is easier to find.

I added the lowering mount position on my Blue 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X before I sold it, and this thread has the photos from that process. I will probably do this with the 5 speed X this Winter, and dialup maybe a 1/3 inch of compression to stiffen it up. But I will just drop the bike a couple of inches, not 3 to 3-1/2 inches. To do this, I will drill the new hole closer to the original lower mounting position.

Note: If you have the entire shock/spring out, free from the bike, you can use a drill press and get the new mounting hole exactly where you want it, and square across the TWO forks. This is important for lining up for re-installation, but also for smoothe lower linkagage movement. It is a 10mm bolt, so a 10mm drill bit is best.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

To remove the shock for this process, I will drop it out through the linkage area. As I mentioned a couple of posts back, this is an easy way to remove the rear shock.

Because I seem to be that kind of person, I lowered my X the same way except I took nothing loose but the pivot link. Never pulled the shock and drilled it right there on the bike. I'm a mechanical shortcut kind of guy. Comes from spending some early years working flat rate I expect.

If/when you take the seat off, have a look at that "button" that holds the front of the seat on. Take the screw out of it, put some Loc-Tite on it, and put it back. Mine loosened itself and there was nothing holding the front of the seat on. No big deal. But if you lose either that oddly short screw, or God forbid, that button you'll be in a bad way trying to find replacements I bet.

Templar X 250 Fuse: F10AL250V

F 10A L

F: Fast Blow
L: Low Over Current required to start blowing
10A: 10 Amps
250V: Can handle voltages up to 250 volts and still function as designed

Size Metric: 6x30mm
Size SAE: 1/4" x 1 1/4"

Example Domestic Supply (NAPA):
Fast Acting, Glass Tube, 1/4 x 1 1/4 (6.3 mm x 32 mm) Physical Size, Nickel Plated Brass Endcap Construction, UL Listed Product Meets Standard 248 14
Made in Taiwan vs Made in China
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7822060

NAPA Fuse: BP/AGC-10-RP

BP: "Bolted Pigtail" type of fuse
AGC: All Glass C size Cartridge (1/4" x 1 1/4")
10: 10 Amp
RP: The "RP" in a fuse designation does not have a universally standardized meaning but may refer to a "rejection type" or "rejection pin" design, which is often used to ensure that fuses of the wrong amperage rating cannot be inserted into a circuit. R at the end usually means RoHS compliant, but there is nothing in the data sheets that mention what RP means.

Most AG fuses which are made for Automotive use have a Voltage Rating: 32V AC/DC

Yet another Loc-Tite tip. When I had the seat off (again) I noticed that the rear brackets are (supposed) to be held to the plastic seat pan by two little screws in each. One of mine had gone and its mate loose. Turns out there are tiny nuts in the plastic pan that not secured terribly well. My nut had flipped over sideways, I had to flip it back square with a pick. I was able to match up the (tiny) missing screw out of my parts stash but it was very much an oddball. Really difficult to tighten these suckers, even pressing hard on the cushion. Even harder to get them to start after you've taken one out. So actually instead of Loc-Tite I believe giving them a little tighten and then putting a dab of like hot glue or other glue over the head of the screw might be better preventative maintenance. It would at least keep you from losing the screws maybe

If I ever take the upholstery off my seat this is something I will definitely improve upon with some larger nutserts or something.

brake pads
 

Front & Rear brake pads - EBC FA86 . I have installed them and they improve braking. There is also EBC FA86HH That are supposed to be better in the dirt.

When no info is available, I use the fastener size and the threaded material to determine torque values. I have never experienced a failure doing this in 30 years.

Example for metric bolts...
https://i.postimg.cc/zBRrSv0K/Metric...rque-Chart.png

Intake Boot dimensions!
 

Here are measurements taken by GigaXi with photos:
Thank you!

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=11

Uncrating, build, test ride-standard Templar
 

I am posting this youtube video from youtube. He does a nice job demonstrating and discussing assembly, and he has lots of comments on the components, suspension. He has the 172FMM-3A (5 speed), which I have on my original Templar X. You have to go to youtube to view the video.

Hold the control key while clicking if it gives you any trouble

======https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcVDa25F1jE======

This review is complete and he has lots of info with links for upgrades (Thanks!)

Thanks for dropping that link. That's the video that made me pull the trigger. I live in the same state and surrounded by the same terrain.

Exact replacement for shift lever: a.co/d/3tbNWgD
Please copy and paste the link into your browser due to the forum's "VigLink" script breaking links.
Akozon Gear Shift Lever, Aluminium Alloy Motorcycle Gear Shifter Folding Foot Shifter for Kayo BSE Apollo Zongshen CG CB NC 125 150 200 250 450 ATV Quad Dirt Pit Bikes

UPDATE: My previous clutch cable recommendation was only barely long enough, and I realized it may not even have fit for someone with a stock clutch lever. Here is a clutch cable I just installed that has plenty of slack, so should work for anybody.

You will have to copy-paste and replace the "0" with a letter "o", because the forum's "VigLink vBulletin Plugin v2.0.6" is messing with links and sending users to different sites.

amazon.c0m/dp/B00WUA4Y0U
GOOFIT 48.43" Clutch Cable for 200cc 250cc Water-Cooled ATV

While I'm here, these foot pegs were a perfect fit:
amazon.c0m/gp/product/B0CBRDTJGC
MZS Dirt Bike Foot Pegs, CNC Motocross Footpeg MX Footrest Rest Pedal Black Compatible with CRF150F | CRF230F | KDX200 | Light Bee S/X | X160 X260 | MX3 MX4 | XR150L | HAWK 250

I only have this problem on my laptop and not every time. If you press the ctrl key when clicking on the link, the link will work properly.