Woodland, sorry if this sounds elementary, buy how old is your socket? Would it help if you invested in a new six point socket? It might provide a better grip and be less likely to pop off. A few bucks for a new tool might save time and further problems.
My oil stainer plugs took a solid push using a breaker bar and an extension. I probably used my 1/2 inch breaker bar, which is a lot easier to hold steady even if you don't need that much additional torque. Obviously you want to apply force squarely and avoid further "pop offs," since you may be rounding the corners off the fitting. Good luck! |
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A good 17mm socket is a good investment, as is a breaker bar. :) http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...bar-60819.html Once you break the strainer nuts free, you won't have a problem with them in the future. You definitely don't need to tighten them as much as they do at the factory. :ohno: |
Thanks NoVa Rider & Spud - Socket was new when it touched the bike ;) - the problem was due to the location and the need to use an extender any time I applied torque, the socket would go kindof cockeyed and would pop off - its safe to say the very top edges of the bolt in some places are more rounded than they were :(
Eventually got the suckers loose by tipping the bike over onto its side by propping it on its crash bars on top of some bags of cat litter. Unfortunately when I pulled the first strainer, the oil pan was not in place and it made a hell of a mess on the garage floor. *sigh* I was not anticipating quite that much oil to still be inside after having drained it through the drain plug and the oil filter housing. |
Don't worry; you will do a cleaner job next time. ;)
Indeed, the engine holds a surprisingly large amount of oil, which is very good. :tup: Removing the drain plug probably drains the 'gearbox' oil reservoir, which houses the oil sight glass. Removing the oil strainer bolt on the left side of the engine drains the oil sump in the bottom of the crankcase. Removing the oil strainer bolt on the right side of the engine probably drains the oil which feeds from the 'gearbox' oil reservoir to the oil filter, and/or the oil which was being sent to the crankshaft and the cylinder head. :) It is very good for such a small, water cooled engine to contain 1.7 quarts of motor oil. :tup: |
Sprite, experience is the best teacher and this is a great bike to learn on. Not too much electronics and a dealer and support group that loves to help. Besides, it's not a real garage until you spill some oil on the slab.
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I wasn't too worried about the oil change - I'm significantly more concerned about the 500 mile valve check - the idea of plucking the gas tank off and moving radiators about....
It'll get done one way or another, but I have a feeling it's going to be another sweltering experience in the garage even with fans going! back to the oil change bit - I filled the tank with dino oil (the stuff CSC sells) - and I have 8 oz left from the 2 qts I bought - It seems people switch over to synthetic or a syn blend - OR switch to whatever oil they prefer in their bikes. Is it worth keeping that 8 ounces around if I intend to switch to a different oil? (I haven't decided yet - and it seems the weights on the bottle don't necessarily really mean that one 10w40 oil will be an exact match for another with the same weight so mixing is likely not advised) |
I'd keep it in case you need to top it off before the next oil change. ;)
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Indeed, you should always have some motor oil available to top off the oil level. :) Also, You can certainly use your remaining oil by adding an ounce or two to whatever oil you finally choose, every subsequent oil change. It's the same as topping off your oil level while traveling; it won't hurt anything. ;)
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With me, it's always necessary. I can't complete an oil change in anything without spilling at least a little oil. I always have cat litter at the ready.
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I've found sawdust works super good, so I save it when I have a project that requires wood cutting.... |
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