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X Pect shifter lever
Sorry I didn't see that til this morning. This one I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It works real good but it sticks out seems a little too far. I was thinking of trying the IMS that fits on the HAWK but last time I looked they were like $40. |
Good! I took a leap of faith and ordered that very one. Thanks for the reply
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Ferrous metal stuck to Magnetic Drain Plug.
https://i.postimg.cc/2jBQ7yM6/Metal-pieces.jpg Drain plug clean off. While on the plug it looked like big pieces of sharp shards but when cleaned off we see it is composed of small pieces and metal soup. As the metal attaches to the magnet, it grows like a cave stalagmite. https://i.postimg.cc/3x9mxv4L/Metal-cleaned.jpg Oil screen clean out, very clean except for one piece appears to be plastic maybe a gasket piece and one piece of metal. https://i.postimg.cc/d3MTxRp0/OIl-screen.jpg Oil residue review. A big change, the small reflective aluminum appearing pieces are almost nonexistent. The small reflective particles suggestive of clutch friction disc material are also greatly reduced. One piece of plastic or hylomar is seen. This sample did not sit overnight but only for about 4 hours draining before analysis which does bring in to question on the aluminum as the oil was left draining overnight into a larger tub and there appeared to be some reflective pieces in the small amount (couple of tsp) that drained out overnight. https://i.postimg.cc/X7bCK89H/Oil-particles.jpg Thoughts at 500 miles The last 60 or 70 miles the engine and clutch seemed by feel to be functioning smoother. What the Team learned: 1) Changing the oil removes contaminants, but costs some money and time. 2) At around 90 to 109 miles the bike picked up 3 or 4 miles per hour at 6000 rpm. Ring break in or just a tight motor loosening up? 3) If the Team could only make one oil change from startup to 500 miles the best time would be at 100 miles or 4 hours total operation and should include cleaning the oil screen. 4) Magnetic drain plugs work very well at trapping and removing ferrous metal particles from oil circulation. 5) Using quality oil feels good! Especially after analyzing oil contaminants! |
2 - Yes to both. Rings are starting to seat which increases compression, and thus power. If there is anything "tight" in the entire engine it would be gears. Possibly starter, also transmission. Those could also rob some power.
3 - CSC recommends a first oil change at 200 miles, so fairly close. That was the interval I stuck with on my bikes. Then 1k miles. 4. Magnetic drain plugs do trap some ferrous metal, but a lot of it tends to be caught by the centrifugal oil spinner, or remains suspended in the oil and will never come near the magnet. Basically, they do help, but they only do so much. 5. Yes, it does lol. |
X-Pect WOT test run
Top speed is not a goal for backroad development. The team was curious and we got some data, and we post it for others.
She ran 56 mph at 7800 RPM today WOT with the stock 15T Front and 46T rear. At 7000 RPM she will cruise at 50 mph. More important the team is pleased that the stock final drive ratio of 3.07 appears to be satisfactory so far on a couple of backroad rides. If that is not enough, the team picked up a 50T rear sprocket and with that and some front sprocket changes we should be able come up with a ratio we like. The Team members by consensus, requested I throw in some comparison info for all those Backroad riders that get elevated blood pressure when we start talking about final drive ratios above 3.00 because they know it corresponds to offroad capability. The WOT speed number generated by a final drive is also an easy measure of engine performance and torque which can be used to suggest performance in off-road terrain. I have run the HAWK over the same WOT course with a final ratio drive of 3.18, with an improved exhaust by way minus a CAT, more fuel through carburetion, 21- and 18-inch wheels, and the WOT equaled 58 mph. At 7000 rpm the HAWK turned 51-52 mph. The 200cc stands in with good company! https://i.postimg.cc/W3wRcP4s/IMG-20...523961-HDR.jpg |
X Pect Air Filter mod
The first time the Team saw the X-pect air filter and airbox they knew what they wanted to improve. They knew because somebody a time ago had come up with a great idea that worked. Credit for the idea goes to………
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...highlight=foam Thanks for posting it! Filter frame after paper has been cut away with razor blade and Utility knife. https://i.postimg.cc/bYQGkkhp/Removing-paper-media.jpg 1 inch foam filter material marked by filter frame with magic marker and cut on the outside of black line made by marker with bread knife and a straight edge. Cutting on the outside edge of the black line helps so filter fits tight in the frame to prevent leaks. A sealant around the edges could also be used between the filter and the frame but it would not then be removable for cleaning and oiling. https://i.postimg.cc/qRFGKnV8/Markin...or-cutting.jpg The filter installed is 1.19 inch thick cut down from a generator filter purchased on Amazon. Uni foam filter media is also available on amazon in sheets. In the picture upper left top corner two pieces of it can be seen and combined it would equal around 1 inch and it comes in several sizes of filtration. The Team believes at minimum you need a layer size of 60-65 Pores per square inch (PPI) saturated with filter oil, OIL is a requirement. You could mix and match two sizes of filter media to increase air intake or increase filtration. https://i.postimg.cc/1tFKpX92/Unit-filter.jpg Oiled and fitted into the airbox. https://i.postimg.cc/50ftmk1J/Filter-installed.jpg |
X Pect Air Box leak
After a dusty back-road ride with the new air filter a check reveals the Air-box leaks! A previous ride with the stock filter looked suspicious but not conclusive.
https://i.ibb.co/qMh2pwJ/Dirt-in-airbox.jpg The new foam air filter is over 1 inch thick and that may be contributing to the leaking air-box because it is more difficult to pull air through it. By comparison a common POD foam filter is about ½ inch. That increases the pressure inside the air-box to pull air from any leaks. The foam appears to also be finer or more PPI (foam spaces) than the UNI filter material which is 65 PPI. This 1-inch generator foam filter could be as much as 80 PPI with smaller pores better filtration but more resistance to air flow. Dust into the engine is not acceptable, the Team went after removing the air box to find the problem. NOT a task for the faint of heart as it is difficult to remove, the rear half of the exhaust comes off and many disconnections and removal of electronics as the air-box is a mounting plate with many components riveted through the plastic sidewalls. Disconnected it is not easy to get out of the frame and requires a bend side wise to come out. PIA but this team has taken out a Magician Air-box which is more than a warm up for this job . The air-box has three main parts that screw together with rubber gaskets for each part. If a gasket does not fit tight that would be an issue. The Air-box did not show any obvious point of entry but the most suspicious area is the first connection or top of the main box that fits over the large bottom box. https://i.ibb.co/6WYRG53/Airbox-dissassembled.jpg The Team elected to seal the first or bottom section cover gasket and the air filter gasket where it fits to the air-box with hylomar (Megadan tip-Hylomar). The filter cover was not sealed as any leaks would still be filtered. We also sealed around any rivet points and placed sealer behind the right-side electronics plate and thread lock on the bolts that go into the air-box. https://i.ibb.co/NmfZ4sx/Airbox-sealed-hylomar.jpg Thoughts: Testing will tell, if that fixes the problem. She ran 56 mph on the WOT course so could be that thick filter is starving the motor for air up top. Performance wise, the sweet spot might be one layer of UNI foam 65 PPI and on top a layer of 30 PPI both oiled but that test is for another day and depends on the air-box proving to be dust-proof. |
X Pect Knobby tires
The Backroad Grip!!!
https://i.postimg.cc/XqB4YnHp/IMG-20...538821-HDR.jpg Kenda K760 Trakmaster II Dual Sport Tire Front 70/100-19 https://i.postimg.cc/m28WWz28/IMG-20...501607-HDR.jpg IRC 87-5700 Tire Ve-33 Rear 4.60X17 6Pr Bias Tt No longer a Dual Sport the bike now becomes a true Backroad Bike. A test on pavement reveals gone is that smooth, quick turning, pavement confidence of the 50/50 tire and leaning onto those side knobs is a different feel but there is no denying there is gonna be some Back-road BITE!! Credit for X-Pect tire knowledge goes to ……… I took my new Lifan X-pect on its first muddy off-road trip (pics) - ChinaRiders Forums |
I have the Kenda K760 Trakmaster II Dual Sport Tires on my Hawk. They do handle the street better than the stock nobbies that came on the Hawk. They are real good in mud and sand.
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HAWK Trakmasters
You can't go wrong (much) ha, hah:lmao: following the JerryHawk250 lead! I was eyeballing those ones on your HAWK for awhile and I think the design (paddle style knob) will work good where the team rides in loose rock and gravel of all sorts up and down, bonus is DOT approved.
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you know how most people read the forum and they get envy to get a new bike? Well, I’m getting tire envy right now. these look pretty good. I was always worried that the knobs were too far apart and that would really reduce the grip on pavement. But, you guys are saying that they stick just as well or better. So I guess I was thinking about that the wrong way.
next time I think I will try these out. With the stock tires, it’s always a delicate balance to keep the front wheel from washing out. It loves to wash out. |
X-Pect Air Box
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X-Pect fork valves
When the Mikes X Valves were ordered for the HAWK I picked up a set for the X-Pect and the team put them in a couple of weeks ago. Whereas the HAWK’s forks came apart easily, the bottom bolts on the X-pect forks is cemented good with Loctite and would not loosen while on the bike. You could hear the Damper turning against the springs.
I tried the damping rod tool made for the HAWK with the threaded rod but it was too weak. The team had to come up with something beefier so we welded the bolt to a piece of rebar and made a handle and that did the trick. I bought a cheap welder a year ago and the Team has found some good use for it. The Damper Rod inner hex size is 14mm. A guy could get a 14mm Allen head and some extensions to get something to work for the job. There are no preload spacers in these forks and the springs are stiffer. The team added the minimum adapter length possible at about 5.5 mm and when added to the length of the valve spacing at 14mm gives a total preload of about 19.5 mm. The springs stick out of the fork tubes about 3 inches and were a real pain to compress to get the fork caps on! With an average rider weight of 185 lbs the rider sag came to 1.25 inch which is not quite optimal. A new set of custom springs could be made at a cost of about $200 and they need a spring for comparison to do it. All considered we will see how well they work. The forks were filled with 180 ml of 10 wt fork. Stock damper top showing fork oil passage with modified damper below https://i.ibb.co/mq02T80/Stock-dampe...fied-below.jpg Fork tool and finished Damper rod with valve and adapter https://i.ibb.co/bHW732P/Fork-tool.jpg Damper rod end https://i.ibb.co/3spY0dR/Damp-er-hole.jpg Credit for the fork valve knowledge goes to........ http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...554#post284554 |
Just got my x-pect together. Nice little bike, going with a 16t front sprocket.Shell rotella 4t oil 15w/40.
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X-Pect gas can carrier mount
From the day the Team started on the tail rack they knew there was another piece to go with it. Off and on over the months they worked on a gas tank carrier that will mount to the rack. Some final bolt pieces were ordered and it was assembled right before a trip. There was a locking cap piece left over from another carrier as a starting point. This project was one of the trickier ones to get right as it is not easy to bolt anything to the tail rack as it sits low on the bike. It had to be removable and strong. Several designs were tried until they hit upon the final work up and if I do say so, they got it “right”. It might just be easier to buy a store-bought carrier lock and go from there, but that would be way to easy!
Covered in dust from the trail and certified for Back Road use after a day of pounding. https://i.postimg.cc/CLkpFQyC/IMG-20...817667-HDR.jpg |
The rack is sturdier than what it is attached to. Very nice metal work.
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X-Pect Back Road Test results
The Back Road put the evaluation on the X-Pect and a few team members last week and they took a Back Road beat down! The Bike and the riders were both dropped multiple times on the left and the right. Coming up a steep hill covered in fist sized loose rock she went down hard on the left side. The Handguard did its job well protecting the levers and absorbing the blow but it can only do so much. The rider shaken, but no major injuries other than some scrapes. The left handlebar got bent, but it was rideable. You go down on hard pack or rock most times on this Back Road. Think Hand Guards are optional?
Right handguard https://i.postimg.cc/D0XWj9vz/Right-side.jpg Left handguard https://i.postimg.cc/Hx7bJZJb/Left-side.jpg Left side Bent Handlebar https://i.postimg.cc/WbSq4L9Q/IMG-20...504455-HDR.jpg Thoughts: The reason? Loss of Rider confidence. As the Team Leader I have to assume the responsibility. I put the Rider in terrain that overcame their mental preparation. I had never been down that track other than looking at the Ridge Line last year so I had no exact idea either what to expect. Riding down gravel roads with a few potholes is one thing but the Rough Back Road is another thing altogether at times technical and challenging. You have to rise to the challenge and overcome by performance or it will eat away at your confidence. It is not that it is above your skill level necessarily but that it is challenging and there is no compromise you must perform or pay the consequences. Moral of the story, you need to think about all Rider skill levels before you take the plunge. It will not be fun anymore if someone gets hurt a long way from medical treatment. The only answer is to prepare mentally for the challenge and take the equipment to deal with any circumstance. The Team highly recommends a satellite emergency communicator on any road that lacks cell service and a good first aid kit and training to go with it and then plan for the time and expense to fix a torn-up bike. Motorcycle riding on the Back Road is a CONTACT sport. The Team noticed when dropped the X-Pect leaks gas they think from the overflow drain tube in the tank under the gas cap. It leaks or gas is forced by the seal. The other unusual behavior is that sometimes after being dropped the bike will start up and idle but when you apply throttle it dies. Multiple restarts would not correct it. This happened twice. A guess is the force of the drop or sideways motion messes up the throttle position sensor in the manifold because to fix it you hold the throttle open say half and push the starter button and it will start and rev immediately to the position of the throttle. The throttle needs to be opened far enough to make this work. Next time we might just open it WOT couple of times before a restart to see if that will work. The X-Pect is in pretty good shape considering. She is not as pretty as she once was, but she has proven her Back Road Heart! |
X-Pect on the Back Road Glory!
The team would like to thank the forum knowledge contributors as they were as much a part of this team and this bike build as anyone and without their contributions this bike would not be what it is today. This thread has been in large part an attempt to pay back a little something for the knowledge the Team acquired but it is nothing compared to what the Team received from others contributions.
The X-Pect is a well-made bike. It’s a tough bike. It is going to make a good Back Road Bike. I look forward to getting some seat time on the Back Road to see what she’s got. Here she is in her Back Road Glory! Goes by Jade! 2021 X-Pect B model; B stands for……….? LR version; LR stands for…………..? https://i.postimg.cc/VsnBxhfy/IMG-0023.jpg Trivia answer: The Magician!!!!! The CR27 Team is off to put on a handlebar, make other repairs and do maintenance, lick some wounds, and plan for the NEXT Back Road Ride Experience………………CG strong, Ride hard! |
I just got back from check ride with 16T front sprocket. With 15T @5k rpm 37mph. With 16T Was 40mph. Didn’t lose any noticeable low end. Still swear by rotella 4t15w40. Nice bike.
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Does anyone know of a bolt on bash plate for Lifan x-pect 200. Thanks for info.
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It looks perfect. It is a dirt bike. Dual sport, well, yes, but why bother with a dirtbike if you just drive on the road !!! And by the way... If you aren't pushing your limits, you are just growing old(er)!!!! :tup: :tup: :tup: |
Do you know the spring diameter? Wanting to upgrade springs and cross reference Japan bikes.
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am I likely to need a heat gun to get the rear sprocket off my x-pect to switch it out?
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It’s a pita to get back on actually. |
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Great thread! As I was looking at the pictures, I had a feeling that I've seen this bike before, or something very similar to it.
One of my favorite bikes from my younger years that I could never afford back then, the Honda XR 125 L. That bike had the CG125 OHV engine but no fuel injection. I think they were never sold in the US. https://i.postimg.cc/2yFGNTh3/honda-...oi-vietnam.jpgAnd compare the Lifan. https://i.postimg.cc/T2rCb2FG/IMG-28...4-2x-Large.jpgI think these are pretty much the same bike! |
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