Did you grease the axle when you installed the front wheel? What torque did you use to install the front wheel? Does the wheel spin freely when you spin it? Does the noise change or stop when you hit the front brake?

I bought the bike from Powersportsmax all that i needed to put on were the handlebars. bike runs great except for the squeaking which happens in all gears. when i press the brakes it stops...

Ahh, ok. The brake bad is dragging

Got mine from Powersportsmax. at around 600 miles the top bolt holding my front brake caliper on come out. dang near locked the front wheel. was extremely lucky i was going slow at the time. I highly suggest going over every bolt after a couple hundred miles and adding locktite where necc.

Gears
 

The rear sprocket on the 2021 KPM200 has 49teeth on 428 chain, and is off set (dinner plate shaped) so I couldn't find any other sprockets that I could safely switch to.

Front sprocket is 16 teeth on 428 chain, this front sprocket has a 20mm shaft hole with 2 bolts and a small gold ring.

The chain is 428 chain 128 links long, if you buy a replacement go with the o-rings

I have switched to a 17t-428 on the front sprocket. It made the bike a lot easier to ride on lower gears and didn't suffer too much power loss at high speed. I'm a light rider so it may not work as well for heavier riders.

STOCK:
Front sprocket: 16t-428 (20mm shaft)
Rear sprocket: 49t-428
Chain: 428 128links
Final gear ratio: 3.0625:1
Top speed: 75 (under ideal road conditions)
Mpg: 89mpg (checked on odometer myself)

With 17t front tooth:
Front sprocket: 17t-428 (20mm shaft)
Rear sprocket: 49t-428
Chain: 428 128 links
Final gear ratio: 2.8823:1
Top speed: 82 (under ideal road conditions)
Mpg: 109mpg (checked on the odometer myself)

I also tried with a 18 tooth front tooth but my chain wasn't long enough so if you want to try that you may want more than 128 links on your chain.

I would advise against going with the 18t because I feel like it would make the bike gutless at high speeds.

I am currently trying to get a hold of a new 165ML-E motor (from the 2021 lifan KPM200) and the manufacturer says the only way to get replacement parts and motors is by having a lifan dealer order one for you. I'll send more info as I get it.

NICHE 428 Drive Chain 128 Links O-Ring With Connecting Master Link for Motorcycle ATV Dirt Bike https://a.co/d/1NeeKfq

WEIYINGSI Sprocket Front 428-17T... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UQKODQ...p_mob_ap_share

E3 Spark Plugs E3.38 Premium Powersports Spark Plug w/ DiamondFIRE Technology (Pack of 1) https://a.co/d/3DdWKFT

https://www.chinahao.com/Product/594234035150/

Here's the 45t rear sprocket I went with. It came with a new 16t front sprocket and O-ring chain. I opted not to use the o-ring chain, and went with a standard chain.

Also, total came up to $76 after shipping.

User's manual for KPM200 2021
 

Fantastic info, thank you! I've been feeling the ratio is a tiny bit too short and a one up front would be great.

Overheating
 

I have the 2021 kpm200, I love this bike and it has done really well for me so far. However Kansas summers are no joke, it had a heat index of 105 today and the bike kept flashing it's temp light at me.

I treated the issue very seriously, I flushed out the stock antifreeze and put in engine ice, I changed the oil to 20w50 mobile one, I tried to find a thermostat in town but had to just order one on AliExpress, I also have an oil cooler on the way. The thermostat is set to open at 60° Celsius so I don't think I'm going to be able to find one that opens at a lower temperature.

My issue is that when I am writing at high speed on a really hot day my temperature light seems to flash at me, it must only be over 10 by a few degrees because when I idle down it goes away. I have also only seen this on extremely hot days so far. On a decent day I'm able to get on the highway and full throttle as long as I want.

Does anyone have any ideas that may help me with this issue?

I've never experienced overheating in my bike. I'm at 5100 miles now. Have you checked for any signs of BHG? When you added or changed the coolant, did you properly burp the radiators?

Going to 20-50 might not help. Might actually make things worse.

Ordered a few things to help me get a better idea of what the water temperature is doing.

I ordered a inline temperature sensor adapter 18mm and a tempature sensor kit. I plan on splicing into the hose that goes into the cylinder head near the thermostat. Links below:

Acouto Motorcycle Digital Thermometer Instrument Water Temperature Meter Gauge Ultru Thin Universal LED Motorcycle Digital Coolant Temperature Gauge Kit DC 12V Blue Light https://a.co/d/5ZGwbJ5

Dynoracing Water Temp Gauge Radiator Temperature Water Temp Joint Pipe Sensor Hose Adapter (18MM, Black, 1) https://a.co/d/cqnrdWj

You can get that information and more with something like HUD ECU hacker and an ODBII interface (like a J2534 adapter). I would not start hacking into the plumbing of your bike, but that's me.

https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%2...r/#Charityware

I tried changing the gearing back to original sprocket and everything, I'm back to stock. And I for the life of me can not explain this overheating issue

You can try replacing the sensor, but I doubt that is the issue. It is very cheap though....

https://www.engtb.com/item/taobao/644951214242.html

Ok I'm now convinced that these motorcycles are complete garbage. I've officially tried everything to fix this heat issue. Added oil cooler, flushed antifreeze, replaced thermostat, tested water temp sensor, changed the gearing, swapped spark plug, checked head gasket, wrapped the exhaust, switched to water wetter, inspected water pump, relocated the antifreeze reservoir to make room for a second fan, wired both fans to a switch to keep them powered all the time, replaced the antifreeze hoses with harder lines to prevent collapsing, changed the oil, burped the radiator a ton.

Good luck with these bikes guys but I would avoid ever owning a lifan motorcycle again. There is no information, there are no parts, there is no support from dealers or manufacturers.

Selling this bike and it can be someone else's problem. This is what I deserve for buying a bike that was made by 9 year old slaves.

Did you view or retrieve the ECU data? The data will tell you why it's doing what it's doing.

I'm sorry you feel that way. So far, your bike is the only one reported to have heat issues. Like I said, I haven't had anything like that, and I have a 2020 with 5k miles on it. Who did you buy from again?

If you didn't buy from venom motorsports, contact them anyway, and see if they've encountered that problem.

Hey, another question. What grade of had are you using? Do you get any symptoms of detonation? Basically, the engine will randomly sound like popcorn in a microwave in multi cylinder engines. Not sure what it would sound like in thumpers. Have you checked or changed your plug? Right now, with everything you've done, it sounds like you might be lean, and the cooling system can't keep up.

Oh my goodness! I think you've done your due diligence on the cooling system for sure. If it were mine, I would check the valve clearance just to make sure it's in spec, weird things happen when the valves are too tight or too loose. I can hear the frustration and it's understandable!

I've been just over 700 miles on my KPR in the heat of New Mexico (over 100 every day) with no issues.

I wouldn't run thicker oil to try to reduce Temps unless you have changed bearings to increase clearance for some reason.

Sounds like you may have got a bad apple.

FIX!!! Operator error!!!

As many of us know it's really frustrating to be running around chasing your own tail on a mechanical or electrical problem. I figured it out!

These KPM 200s are very small bikes, and as many of us know storage is difficult. I had installed a small storage bag on the front forks. As many of us know when you are behind a semi in town you still get wind, but when you are behind a semi on the highway it blocks a considerable amount of wind. I think the same principle applied here, that small storage bag blocked just enough wind to keep air from flowing through my radiator fins. Last night I pulled out all the stops I installed the thermometer gauge and got a no drip radiator funnel to pull 100% of the air out of the system and after all my repairs were done I had my buddy just point out that the bag on the front might be blocking the wind. To be honest I hadn't even considered that, it seems like it should be far enough away that it's not an issue however these bikes are very small and asked to do quite a bit of work, it blocked just enough wind to where it just wouldn't cool off fast enough when I was at high RPMs for a long amount of time. After removing the bag my temperature gauge reads no higher than 80 degrees C if I've been on the highway for a long time, and I stick around 70 to 74 degrees C when I am in the city

Aftermarket accessories on your front forks can cause overheating on the KPM 200, unfortunately I have verified it myself.

Safe riding guys, thanks for all the help!

P.S. sorry for the hate mail Lifan, you do make a quality product.

Lol. It's always something small, and unassociated with anything mechanical. Glad you figured it out. I guess it's time to develop some radiator shrouds to get if you install a fork bag. :lol:

Rule #2 of trouble shooting gremlins, BRING IT TO STOCK SPECS FIRST. Lesson learned.

I recommend reading this next.

https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%2...4%20Manual.pdf

His problem is fixed, but this is good info, thank you for sharing.

Engine bogging down.
 

2020 Kpm200 question.
4600 odo
Bogging down when riding at steady speed.
Seems to happen more so after fill up.
Any ideas?

Bogging how? Like it's losing speed gradually, or suddenly losing speed and picking back up?

Are you going uphill? Even slight hills cause these to slow down a bit.

This is a classic sign of plugged tank vent, or in this bikes case a possible failed plugged EVAP system. The lack of air being allowed into the tank is preventing the fuel from flowing. Next time you go on your ride, carry both keys with you. 1 to run the bike, the other to open the gas tank cap to allow the tank to vent WITHOUT shitting down the motor. Ride as usual, when it bogs down, pull over, open tank, reclose after 1-2 seconds, and continue your ride. Report back if the bogging went away for a few minutes.

No hills
 

No; flat grade, uphill, downhill, happens when holding steady speed.

Thanks for the info I'll let ya know what happens.

Has anyone replaced or cleaned the air filter yet?
 

I started taking the sides and seat off, but couldn't figure out how to get the air cleaner out. Has anyone here done it?

Just some more info for you. Yesterday I had a fuel smell whenever coming to a stop. Last night, I saw a video on youtube from a gentleman who had a confirmed fuel leak. He ended up tightening the fuel pump bolts. So today I checked my fuel pump, and each bolt took another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn before hand tight.

1. Do you have a fuel smell once coming to a stop, from a higher speed / revs ?
2. May also want to check your fuel pump hardware. The pump is located under the tank, right behind where the speedometer gauge is. You do NOT have to remove any panels to get to the 4 bolts on it.

I had a question on the chain (turner performance gold chain) when I go to purchase a chain it asks me how many links should the chain have? there are like a million options. from from 78 links to 142 links.. thanks for the help

Count what's on your bike. The easiest way is to count the plates between the links, and multiply by two.

Post #85 in this thread states what the chain is.

The rear sprocket on the 2021 KPM200 has 49teeth on 428 chain, and is off set (dinner plate shaped) so I couldn't find any other sprockets that I could safely switch to.

Front sprocket is 16 teeth on 428 chain, this front sprocket has a 20mm shaft hole with 2 bolts and a small gold ring.

The chain is 428 chain 128 links long, if you buy a replacement go with the o-rings

Based on this info, I also switched. :thanks:

I agree 100% that it's easier to ride in lower gears. Lost about 2-3 MPH at top end going slight uphill, BUT it also less buzzy up there. IMO the 17T sprocket is what the bike should have from the factory.

Exhaust tubing - Sizes for reference
 

Toying with my exhaust, measured everything in hopes of helping others in the future.

Stock OEM black exhaust:
Pre-cat pipe size: 35mm OD
Cat area pipe size: 44mm OD
Post cat pipe size: 35mm

Replacement Stainless manifold from Aliexpress, eBay, Amazon, etc.
Front header pipe: 36mm ID, 38mm OD
Rear header pipe (slides over Front header pipe): 48mm ID, 51mm OD.

I'm running this setup on my KPR. $160 shipped including the muffler from eBay was too great of a deal to pass up.

I had a similar problem with a CX500 with 650 motor I built. I put a high front fender on it, and that blocked air flow to the radiator. I didn't notice it until the radiator fan blew a fuse (my fault, my wire wasn't properly heat-shrinked where I soldered a splice). The fan was on 100% of the time, and when it failed I overheated. I ended up fabbing some wings to draw the air in from the sides.

While you solved the problem, your fan may still be kaput. It'd we wise to check it.

Also, while this was a simple fix, USUALLY rpm-related overheating is due to a bad head gasket. Combustion gasses leak into the water jacket and superheat the coolant.

Charles.

Had some spare time today so I made a laminated quick reference sheet for the bike. probably tape on on the inside of the battery panel, and leave the other one in the tool box