The cam timing could possibly be off by a tooth, yes, but only if the engine was disassembled, I don't think the factory would get that one wrong.

The quad works! It gosh darn mother loving frikkin works!!! In the end it was just the matter of finding the right combination of settings on the carb, and trust me I've tried pretty much every one!!! There's an ever so slight hesitation at mid range if you go WOT but I suspect that can too be massaged out eventually but truth be told if I'm gonna see an another carb internal for the next month I'm gonna scream straight til a vein bursts in my head and I'll fall to the deck midnight blue -still screaming.

Glad it's working out for you!

If memory serves me well (4+7yr old ferrets dashing about when adjusting)

-Mix screw about one turn out (need to check that)
-Needle clip at top slot
-accel pump set on minimum pump (almost completely off)

Still like 98% there but at the moment I'll gladly settle with that. Could probly use a main jet one size smaller, only problem is... You guessed it, no markings!

Expecting the brake parts for the rear to arrive during next week from an another company, gonna dispute the first purchase with paypal as soon as I get the time to do it. Then to sort the few final electric problems and get an inspection scheduled.

Weird part is the rev clock doesn't work. Well it does WORK it's just all over the place. Not that I'd really NEED one just that one would expect an OEM rev clock to work on an OEM setting.

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Getting to the "pleasant problem" point of this build; not a whole lot left to do before the final parts shipment arrives... Fitted and adjusted the fairings, fixed the non working high beam (bent contact prong behind the bulb, was armed to the teeth prepared of an all-nighter, took about two minutes) tried to drill out a snapped bolt, didn`t budged so ended up drilling through and retapping, fitted left side ankle guard, drank a few beers, tucked in some wires, fitted new rear reflectors, adjusted headlight down....

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...276f3cfc8c.jpg

Bit on the fence whether to black out that bullet box or leave it as is (sticks out as the only army colored thing...)

Still to do:

-Front engine mount missing one bolt
-Exhaust joint missing clamp (41-42mm as a reminder for myself)
-Rear brake disc & pads swap when the package comes
-Brake bleed/fluid swap
-Swap out the balljoint on the unpainted front arm
-Swap out remaining front balljoint rubbers and grease joints.
-wheel alignment
-Paint that final front arm and rear hubs
-Finish and paint fog light/indicator brackets
-Bend chain roller arm back to alignment
-Wash&wax
-Pump up tires
-MOT

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...37f23c6ee1.jpg

Wontcha look at what was waiting for me at the garage door! Been waiting for these parts since January!!! Alas no time to do nuffin wiv them tonight but if only I can gonna steal some tinker time next weekend and get 'er done!

Had a quad-win today (pun intended): Kids ain`t home, neighbors ain`t home, friday night and she-who-must-be-obeyed announced she`s too tired to socialize go play, so to the town I went.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...64ea77fba6.jpg

I decided to just simply ram the old balljoint out through the bottom, worked surprisingly well as the ball pushed the bottom cap out and after that I just plucked the nylon insert out.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...64ea78631a.jpg

Took a slice off both top and bottom to get the dimensions closer to correct and to minimize the amount of metal to be removed at later more laborious stages, then found the closest matching socket and drawed a rough circle inside which I need to carve.

(enter about an hour of trying to find my carbide rotary, failing to do so followed by several hours of filing grinding sanding sweating and cursing)

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Well, it ain`t pretty but it fits and ain`t going nowhere. I made the hole tapered enough to have to press fit the joint in and while welding waited after each tack for the piece to cool down enough to touch so I don`t dry the innards.

I`m gonna bet the quad will clock out before this.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8aaf103574.jpg

Had a funny feeling about this brake disc but could not figure out why. Well turns out, along with the balljoint and contrary to the shop`s promises, this doesn`t fit the BS200S-7 as is either!

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8aaf10e94a.jpg

A few long clenched fist sighs later I took stock on what I have and what I can do with them, que a spark flying montage and some inspirational music and bam, old brake disc turned into an adapter.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8aaf1152e5.jpg

Had to grind these whatchamacallem thingies off the caliper carrier to counter the offset of the adapter.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8aaf11cd96.jpg

After straightening the rear axel (couldn`t get it 100% true but I suspect close enough)...

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8ab5b2cba5.jpg

...I got the back end back together. It`s kinda hard to see but I had to grind the allen bolts holding the disc to the adapter flat as they were hitting the carrier. Ain`t getting much any contact with the pads yet but I reckon after a couple spins at the home street they`ll start to grab.

I also painted the now fixed front A-arm, swapped out the other three balljoint rubbers, greased the joints and put the front end back together. As it stands now I am 2x rear hub sand&paint, brake bleed, wheel alignment and an exhaust clamp away from inspection. Possibly next weekend if I can get an appointment, we`ll see.

Last minute roadbumps. I started investigating why isn`t the speedometer working contrary to the prior owner`s promises of it been working when the fire accident happened, turns out the speed sender is completely obliterated. The circuit board inside and the sensor itself looks to be intact but the sensor casing not only has a chip missing from the tp of the thread, the entire metal casing has split in two. My guess is the brake disc has warped enough to touch the tip of the sensor and one of the holes in the disc has collided with the sensor tube. Only problems is almost EVERYONE is out of stock so I`m either stuck with waiting for a new sensor for up to a month, or trying to modify a speed sensor from some other ATV to fit mine.

The second issue came when I tried bleeding the brake system. I got all three calipers bled, ran several reservoir tanks worth of fluid through the system to flush it as well as I could, got good brakes on the pedal, buttoned up and cleaned up. Then after about half an hour returning to the quad I pressed the pedal and it`s completely limp again. WTF?! Do I still have air in the system or is my master cylinder ripe for a swap?!

It could be that the m/c is done, or something isn't tight enough. One time, I was dealing with a leak on something, and all of the fittings were tight, so I thought. I ended up replacing the m/c, only to discover it needed to be a fair bit tighter than it was to stop the leak. Air could be coming in the same way. Is there any leakage around the calipers/pistons?

I splashed around with the brake fluid enough to not be quite sure. Tried to clean up as well as I could and hopefully going back in tonight with more brake fluid and a better fitting hose. I do fear the fire has damaged the M/C as even though it's visible rubber parts seemed intact it has oxidized pretty badly.

I'd just get a new one then, they're not too expensive.

Probly going to since I need to order a new speed sender anyway. It's just that the "not expensive" parts have started to stack up quite a bill, in fact without counting I'm quite sure I've already spent more money on this that what a new one would have cost but pointless to back out anymore either so...

Pretty sure I just figured out the issue with the brakes, must have been tired or sth last night as the answer was blatantly obvious at first glance today, so much so I`m kinda embarassed to even tell... You see this thing has the same brake caliper on both sides up front, which means the left side caliper is upside down... You guessed it, caliper off and open the bleed valve, bubbles rush out even without pumping. Re-bled the right side to purge the line, got quite a bit of air out from there too. Pedal seems nice and solid now, report back tomorrow but as it stands I might not need new parts after all.

Glad to hear it! We often overthink problems, and it makes it worse for us than it needs to be :)

24hrs passed, still got brakes. New speed sensor ordered, if all goes well should have valid inspection and be road legal within July.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...9c92f7385a.jpg

Now it`s a bolt...

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...9c92f7ee06.jpg

...now it`s a hose nipple.

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Didn`t fancy buying a new carb boot as this one`s already brand new just lacking the vacuum port. Been trying to find one online but with bad luck. Managed to locate a few but both companies not only wanted 10eur to ship a 1.50 part, they also wanted to charge me 20eur for "small order extra" like really?! Took me less time to fab one off an M6 bolt than what I`ve been using online searching.

Speed sensor should arrive monday, given that fixes the speedo I might have a valid road inspection by the end of next week.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...b4a0c64c75.jpg

Gave the fairings a proper wash last night to rinse off all the orange paint dust and slapped on a few go-fast stickers since I happened to have some (another pair in the rear mudguards currently covered by the sun glare)

Today I was planning to try get the carb fine tuned to get rid of that mid range sputter, rolled it on the street and started 'er up. At first it only agreed to idle dying at the first twist of the wrist then refused to start altogether. At first I thought the new vacuum nipple is leaking but since even a buttload of donkey kick didn't do nuffin I suspected it cannot be that. While taking off the carb for further investigation I noticed water droplets all around inside the carb throat. WTF?!

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...b4a0c57c9f.jpg

This is how much water I drained off the bowl and the fuel tank!!! So apparently that gas cap isn't sealing worth a damn! Note to self never leave it in the rain if it can be avoided!

I also took off, finished and painted the fog light brackets, and improved the seat front locking lip a little. The fire has melted the original one so the PO had fitted a metal strip in it's place but the roofing screws he fixed it with weren't quite up for the job so I drilled a few holes and put machine screws with nylock nuts in to reinforce the structure and shaped the strip a little to better catch the locating bolt on the frame crossbeam into the slot in the middle. Currently debating with myself whether or not to paint the flywheel inspection cover, and the starter cover orange.

Far as I can tell should be ready for inspection now, trying to get an appt sometime towards the end of the week.

I have now officially reached the point of this build where I`m either gonna start laughing maniacally flapping my sleeves around claiming I`m Batman, setting the quad back on fire this time not putting it out, or selling it for the first punter for a dollar...

New speed sender and extension cable fitted, still no speed reading. At first I noticed the extension cable was pinned wrong assuming it should be color for color from the gauge to the sender ( HOW can you mess up three wires?!) changed that, measured everything, I have ground, I have pilot power and I have sensor power, BUT the sensor wire is giving me a constant voltage reading instead of a pulse like it should, I even tried the remnants of the old brake disc in case the new one would be somehow of wrong metal, and failing that with a magnet but it`s not responding at all. So either they sent me a bum sensor, OR my gauge is busted.

NOTHING, NOT ONE THING of this build has gone smoothly or worked properly. I`ve worked with car engines, big motorcycles, RC motors of the ICE kind but this blasted contraption is taking the cake of being the most uncooperative vehicle I`ve ever poked my tools in!!!

Sounds like the sensor is bad, perhaps you can replace it with a new hall sensor? I'm sorry you're having all the bad luck, but don't give up, and don't leave the site, we like having you around!

I got a pal offering me a high tech acewell dash with all the bells and whistles possible for a hundred and I`m kinda tempted to take the offer if for nothing else then for the satisfaction of crushing the original one with a hydraulic press then dancing around the burning remnants. I was so motivated of getting the thing through inspection this week it might take me a day or two to wear off the aggravation, just would not want to spend yet more money on this since as is I`m currently waaay past what I`m gonna get for it when I`m gonna sell it, and to be perfectly honest doing just that is getting more and more tempting by the new part bought...

Gimme a couple days to breathe and I`ll probly come up with a solution, that`s how it always tends to go...

You could make a video of that, your country is famous for the hydraulic press videos and the winter war.

Hell I`m kinda tempted to contact Lauri and Anni to crush both this dash and the Koso RX2 that spontaneously decided to self destruct on my old Triumph Daytona fighter never figuring out why, still have it on the shelf as it cost me 350eur. Kinda bland video to do with a hand crank press, there however is another youtube channel doing special effects that are in close cooperation with the hydraulic press channel called "the bomb guys" and live about an hour away from me...

We`ll see what tomorrow brings but to be bluntly honest a return to the two wheel world in the shape of, say, a Honda VF500 cafe racer build or sth else with an interesting engine is getting more tempting by the day...

Since you mentioned the winter war, AFAIK I`m kinda sorta some far away way related to one Lauri Törni so there`s still some fight left in me, just need to know when you gotta cut your losses and move on... As said let`s sleep on it and see what happens.

Knowing that (I've read the English biography of him), I think you can win the war against this commie product.

Made a cracking deal with a friend off another forum on an Acewell ACE-5856 digi dash, gonna be fetching that tomorrow. Got a nice little motivation boost off of that and decided to paint the rims. Fought about two hours to get the left side tire off the back rim then spent probly an hour sanding it almost to bare metal. Then got the idea to bolt the rim on the quad to be able to spin it while sanding. That is when I noticed the rim is bent to hell and ragequit for today. And probly for a couple more days...

Been thinking. Hard. Not gonna sell the quad, but most likely gonna shalf this project for a while and getting a bike next month. Hopefully a Honda. They might not be the most exhilarating things but dammit they work.

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Dang it this dirty commie dog isn't gonna best the Finnish sisu. Moped for a day, got hammered, slept on it, checked nettimoto to see nothing available for any reasonable price mid-season so not a whole lot other choices but to trudge through this. I'll tell ya even a tire that small puts up a surprising amount of fight because of that wide lip. Got it off eventually and sanded the whole thing bare metal as it was pretty badly rusted. Got an acid etch primer doing it's thing on it as I write this, gonna go paint when I get the baboons to bed. Painting a bowl like object presents it's own challenges as the spray wash from the can collides with the rim and blows the incoming paint off the rim so gotta paint it in small bursts or else most of the can will just float out the door.

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Not sure if it`s the 13 years as a private contractor or what but I just cannot sit on my hands when there`s stuff to be done. Also might have helped to have spent three years studying as an electronics tech so I might have a certain edge over an average forum user on this but just broke my own record of fully wiring up a gauge cluster. For the heck of it happened to clock the attempt, without counting in the time spent for mapping out the wiring on the quad as normally I`d have a wiring diagram, took me an hour and a half to fully wire this thing in. Ok ok speed sensor needs fitted, a mount made to the handlebar clamps and it needs programming but all wired up functions do work. Apart from a parking light indicator as this cluster does not have one, and that s required to pass inspection so an external light needs to be fitted for that.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...70ae790d2b.jpg

A small thing but still a thing... Made this mount plate off a piece of scrap so it's not particularily clean. Meant to be a temporary thing but if I know myself at all it'll turn into a permanent one, and I have to live with myself every day so...

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Could have made the groove more shallow since I decided to bend the bracket back. Oh well I'll make the permanent one better (as if...)

I managed to trace down a 14mm hose block for the coolant temp sensor but to get that means a trip to the city so gonna wait til sth more comes up to make it more worthwhile.

I also fiddled with different options on how to mount the new speed sensor to the rear, proply gonna drill a hole through the sprocket to fit the magnet bolt onto it and mount the sensor under the swingarm. I was thinking whether or not to make a bracket then bolt it onto one of the underswing mudguard bolt holes since I won't be fitting it back on but swiftly solved that problem by promptly snapping a tap into the thread when cleaning it up. Yea, thanks, guess I'll just weld the bracket on then...

Right side rear rim has been painted with the first color but the paint seems to dry reeeeally slowly so gonna let it cure for a week to make sure the masking tape won't lift the paint off.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...8a96ca83e1.jpg

Wheel #1/4 ready to receive the tire back on. Next I need to figure out a way to jack the quad up on the table so that I can take both front wheels off. And get some other brand silver paint, the silver needs a WEEK to fully cure, the black was touch dry enough to remove the masking tapes in 15 MINUTES!

Question for the quad guys here: how doe you feel about flipping the front wheels around? I understand it should make it more stable to ride at higher speeds but the tradeoff is faster wear on bearings and balljoints, stiffer turning at lower speeds and possible bar jerking when braking at uneven grip.

Worth it or no? Only gonna checkerboard one side.

If you've got quality components, bearing-wise, the difference should be negligible, as long as it isn't egregiously bad.

Egregious... Learnt a new word today yay :D Guess the only way to know is to try. It's not that big of a difference but I've had some cars in the past where the PO had put aftermarket wheels on that had the ET too in making the wheels sit too far out and the parking lot steering characteristics resembled drawing a compound bow. First you go hnnnnnng on the steering wheel then the tires go plop to the stop.


Got an another carb related question for you guys. I think I've gotten the carb tuned about as good as it gets. I have good steady idle, I have good throttle response at WOT but I STILL have some spitting/popping/rev fluctuations at mid throttle. I'm finding some references to a needle jet from the internet but cannot determine whether or not that is sth you can buy and swap for a Keihin PZ30 as I can find nowhere that would sell me such a jet. Now what? Can I shim the needle even higher than bottom clip or will it do anything more? Am I SOL with this carb? Can't imagine that being the case as I'm hardly the first one to put a PZ30 carb on a CG200 engine.

heres a silly question for you... when you rev it up, does it burble off idle? it is possible that the needle is almost too rich when you go tot he bottom slot... i would try it in the middle slot just for the heck of it, or even a the slot above middle just to rule out a lean condition.

Gets off idle just fine. I tried the slot dance all the way from top to bottom, it got a wee bit better every time but I ran out of slots before fully curing the issue. I'd suppose I could try a main jet one or two clicks bigger, only problem is I haven't got a clue what the current one is as there's no markings on it.

and now you see why 90% of us swap out for a mikuni....LOL if you have a precision numbered drill bit set you could try opening it up to the next size, but most people dont have that....LOL

When I bought the Keihin PZ30 Pumpy I kinda thought I'd have the real mccoy since I got it from a reputable company here in Finland instead of ordering from ebay but since it has no jet markings etc I'm getting inclined towards it being a pirated copy after all despite the castings on the side.

I'd surmise a 110 and one-two sizes up and down should hit the mark. Just TBH I'd rather stop shoveling cash on this and finally get in a ride or two before the winter sets in.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...f3f4897c71.jpg

That`s 3/4 rims done, the fourth one needs to be sent for straightening as it`s had a bit of a ding at some point. The tape I used to do the borders left a bit of glue behind on the black but that can easily be wiped off with a squirt of label remover spray, that is after the silver paint has fully cured first.

https://www.customfighters.com/forum...1e5d331355.jpg

Not entirely sure what happened here... I debated a long time with myself whether or not to paint the ammo can/battery box but as it was the only green and/or army thing in the whole build I decided it doesn`t fit and gave it a squirt. Etch primer first then wrinkle black on top. What you`re looking at is me putting a third coat of gloss black on top as the wrinkle black paint decided for reasons unknown to me cure light grey. At first I was accusing the etch primer reacting with the wrinkle paint but then remembered these were the exact same paints that were left over from painting the valve cover of my old Benelli Tornado and that came out black as the night. All fixed now but got me way more pissed than it should have.

Well who would have thought this project could ever suffer a setback!

Dropped the front wheels off to a local tire shop for a remount this morning, at about 5pm the guy called me... One of the rims actually collapsed the lip during the process as it was rusted so thin it couldn`t take the pressure, and with the other pair the bead of the tire ruptured. So now with three bum rims (left rear is bent) I`m looking at buying a complete set of BOTH new rims AND tires, another 500 down the gutter feck yea!!!

On a brighter note I found a local metal shop willing to have a go at truing the rear axel for me so need to disassemble the back end next.