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Rough cut spacers for the engine. As suggested, I used mild steel.
https://i.ibb.co/1vNrDzc/IMG-20220906-161909034-HDR.jpg Test fitting these tonight and then starting on the swing arm spacers. |
Hey looks great,will be interesting build. Keep up the good posting,just might do the same.Thanks
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Slow day today. Spacers have the engine locked in. The lower bolt needs to be a bit longer than I anticipated so I will need to make a run to Fastenal or Home Depot tomorrow to get a 3/8 bolt that is long enough.
With the engine in place, I can start re-assembling the rear end and test chain alignment. One thing I noticed is that the rear brake pedal will require some bends to accommodate the larger engine case, but nothing some time with the torch can't solve. |
I refitted the back wheel to test the chain alignment this afternoon.
https://i.ibb.co/hcrVLrR/IMG-20220908-145504490.jpg The feeler gauge I need 0.08mm is on its way and should be here tomorrow. Once I've got the valves set, I'll start plumbing the radiator and hoses. Then it's on to the body panels and wiring. |
Re-mounted the rear end. Slowly starting to look more like a motorcycle again.
https://i.ibb.co/F86FLHc/IMG-20220909-140506161.jpg Valves are getting done today and then on to wiring. I've decided to hold off on the radiators as it is becoming apparent I will need to do some fabrication the exhaust. The CRF230F flange needs to be adjusted to fit the NC250 and the bends are now no longer aligned with the muffler. |
Valves are done. Word of advice for anyone who has one of these motors: the flywheel magnets are POWERFUL. They will throw the flywheel each time you get near TDC. If you can avoid using a rachet, do so.
Also you won't be able to see the cam while you are doing the valves, unless you take apart the head, so just watch the valve rockers to find the "right" TDC. All the valves should be closed. Rear valves, as we all knew, were a little bit of a pain but not awful. No worse than other bikes I've worked on. They are now all set to 0.08mm |
Lighting harness is mounted and complete. Gauges and all accessories work. I have one remaining wire to run for the tachometer, but I won't do that until I am closer to starting.
Engine harness is 90% ready to go. Currently working on mounting solutions for the CDI and Coil. Confirmed the harness is powered properly. Radiators are at about 80%. I have all the hoses, just waiting on the couplers so I can finish. Remaining items:
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Rads are now plumbed. I used the RX3's coolant loop. I got a new Masterlink for the chain, but I need to get the clip on still. Clutch cable has been figured out (I just needed to slow down while adjusting the tension). I made a bracket for the coil to mount above the cylinder (no pic yet) and I have decided to mount the CDI on the underside of my seat to save some space.
Some in progress pictures: https://i.ibb.co/kDPTyXY/IMG-20220924-111151546.jpg https://i.ibb.co/HCcdsZZ/IMG-20220924-111210126-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/wzswgjS/IMG-20220926-155408369.jpg https://i.ibb.co/pbthptg/IMG-20220926-155359960-HDR.jpg |
Looking good! :tup:
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I ordered a 34mm Nibbi PWK carb today. Oddly, 33 pilot jets are a lot harder to find than I thought (might just be where I am located).
For now I will be going with: Pilot: 35 Main: 135 Needle: 2nd clip from the top Once the carb is in, I can start working through draining/remounting the gas tank, remounting the seat, and finally getting to work on the exhaust. |
Nibbi carb is in. I lucked out and it came with a 32 pilot installed. Small victories. Clutch cable and throttle cable have been adjusted with proper slack.
https://i.ibb.co/Kb8vcW5/IMG-20220929-120726697-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/PNyHzkz/img-1144.jpg I need to pick up a 55mm hose clamp for the intake (the largest I have is a 52mm). With that everything is locked in place and I can start putting more of the bike back together. I also managed to find a better spot to mount the coil as well. https://i.ibb.co/G9RZzz9/IMG-20220929-140231533-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/gr01wBZ/IMG-20220929-140237267-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Cs6vPny/IMG-20220929-140241421-HDR.jpg Things to complete:
*NOTE: please don't judge me too harshly for those terribly cut coolant lines. I didn't swap out razor blades until it was far too late. :ohno: |
You're getting close. Man, who butchered the hoses. :lmao: Just kidding. Looks good to me.
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Test fitting (minus the exhuast):
https://i.ibb.co/CmSmpRM/IMG-20221001-114024125.jpg Not gonna lie... She looks pretty damn good to me. :) |
Mounted up the front brakes this morning. Two things jumped out immediately.
1) The brake line is not long enough to loop over the cluster and down through the passage in the headlight assembly. I am going to look at picking up a CRF450X front brake line as I think what is currently installed is from a CRF250R. The 250R line has always been a bit of an issue, in older pictures you can see that it was running almost horizontal across the handlebars vs. looping up and over the way it should. 2) The speed sensor has two issues of its own. 1) the wire is wayyyyyyyy to short. 5 minutes with some spare wire I had laying around and I made a 3 pin jumper wire to go from the cluster to the sensor wires. 2) The sensor is a magnet type. It came with two little button magnets that I cannot mount anywhere on the disc without it resulting in clearance issue with the caliper. So I've decided to make a longer sensor bracket and swap to some magnet bolts for the brake disc. In other news the exhaust ('12 CRF250R) header is on its way. Once it arrives I will start work on the exhaust. Engine is filled with oil, judging by how little it took, there is a some of the factory oil still in there. I will do a full change after the heat cycle tests. Rads are filled with distilled water for now. Same deal as the oil. Full change after heat cycling. |
Waiting on parts to arrive is like watching paint dry.
Brake lines get here tomorrow. Exhaust pipe pieces arrive today. Hopefully I can get the header flange mocked up tonight so I can take it to be welded tomorrow and put this to bed. Weather has been pristine the last couple of days and I am chomping at the bit to fire this engine up. |
Iteration one of the exhaust is complete.
https://i.ibb.co/Ttp8B3t/IMG-1147.jpg https://i.ibb.co/gjbHj5G/IMG-1148.jpg https://i.ibb.co/10z30mk/IMG-1149.jpg It bolts up, but requires some tweaking once its bolted on to make sure it doesn't sit against the frame and the water pump like it does in these images. I will revisit the exhaust later, but for the moment it is bolted on and the muffler mounts. It is good enough...for now. I have run into a different issue, on the wiring side. I believe there is an issue with the stock Orion start kill switch (4 pin). It uses a really weird rocker inside to do the grounding out for the kill switch. I tested the starter by bridging the relay wire (red) to battery positive and the engine cranks no problem. I have a feeling I am over thinking this and I need a sanity check from some of our wiring gurus out there. This is the plug setup: https://i.ibb.co/VYk5W7P/Start-Kill-Switch.png Unless I am crazy this is how it should work right (see below)? Or have I just had a complete brain fart? https://i.ibb.co/2STpP1s/Start-Kill-...w-it-works.png The problem is that the black wire on the starter switch plug isn't hot. It isn't passing any power. I am going to open up the engine harness and see where it goes tomorrow, but in the mean time any assistance is greatly appreciated. |
Based on this diagram (same CDI used on the NC250) the black wire should be 12v.
https://i.ibb.co/wQz7KTg/H94f01706ab...0x640q90-2.jpg I made a mistake when I wired the ignition key switch. I, in my infinite brilliance, thought it would be a hot and a ground going into the engine harness. Nope. Red comes in hot goes into key switch comes out hot on black to power the CDI and let the starter switch do its job. So I'll fix that tomorrow. |
That was the problem. Not only did the black wire need to be passing power, I also had to replace a wire inside the engine harness and then solder it all back together. They used extremely flimsy gauge wires to pass power in this harness. I was loosing 12v every time the harness even slightly squished or bent. The ground wires are stout little bastards, but for some reason unknown to me the power wires were so small.
After fixing that issue, I bolted thing back up and hit the starter. It took some CRANNNNNNNKKKSSSS, but after about 20 minutes of adjusting, checking, coaxing, and swearing: SHE STARTED UP.:yay: Engine sounds good. No excessive ticks (so I managed to set the valves correctly). Idle was set extremely rich. Made some adjustments. Let it run for five minutes and now it's cooling down. Lessons learned today: 1) A multimeter is an amazing tool. Learn to use one. It will save your sanity. 2) Iteration 1 of the exhaust design isn't going to cut it. The clearances are just too damn close right now. I will be fixing that before I take any test rides. The good news is I now have all the angles can take some pictures and get a better design in there. 3) I hooked up my tach wrong. -_- I was thinking like old school and just ran a wire to the plug wire, wrapped it, and called it quits. I need to run a wire to the hot side of the coil to pick up the pulses. 4) I need a battery charger. |
I just realized I started this project in October of last year (23rd was when I started tear down of the old motor). The days went by slow, but the weeks have gone by fast.
I'll post some videos later tonight of the engine running. |
That's really strange that the CDI passes the +12V to the ignition switch, are you sure that the CDI isn't receiving switched power from the ignition? Normally that's how they wire stuff... In any case, congratulations, I'm glad this came together!
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Battery > Engine Harness Positive 12v (red wire) > Ignition Switch > Black Wire 12v The Black Wire 12v then splits into 1) CDI power and 2) starter button power. So the CDI is getting switched power from the ignition key switch. |
Videos are going to have to wait. Pretty sure my in line fuel filter is faulty, I've got gas between the petcock and the filter. Bubbles in the filter, and massive dry spot in the fuel line.
I did the old open the petcock and pop the line on the carb (pouring a bit of gas on a tastefully placed shop towel) and plugging the carb fuel line back in. This got the air out of the line. I am now going to wait a few hours and check on it to see if I air bubbles again. |
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Fuel issue update: FIXED
I removed the inline Tusk filter (hairline crack). Then had to open up the bottom port on the carb to get rid of the massive air bubble that took residence near the floats. We're back on track. The bike fires up with the slightest bit of throttle when cold and no throttle when warmed up now. Video Proof that I am not making all this up and the bike does run: :clap: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKSR_9znBKE Things to do: - set chain tension - grease front axle - Torque front axle - refill and bleed front brake - Resolve this issue with my front tire going walkabout without permisisions: https://i.ibb.co/71W1vqw/IMG-1163.jpg |
Slow day. Learned that this bike NEEDS choke on a cold morning start. I was spoiled on my little CG, as I never had to use it.
Tidied up some wiring. Adjusted my coil mount ( now using two 3D printed pieces). Bled the front brakes. Thrills a minute on this build, folks. |
Tire bead has been reseated. Front axle greased and torqued.
The bike is now resting on her own tires (and side stand) for the first time since disassembly. As soon as I get a break in the weather, I will take her for the first test ride. https://i.ibb.co/QHmDbdV/IMG-20221030-162531032.jpg |
While waiting for the weather to break I have been staring at this brake line:
https://i.ibb.co/VYLPJch/IMG-20221104-105227244.jpg https://i.ibb.co/x7wyB24/IMG-20221104-105211257.jpg https://i.ibb.co/yk0KNnR/IMG-20221104-105217397-HDR.jpg The stock line was extremely short and I always found myself "pulling" it when turning. Decided to go with a longer line and used this 150cm brake line I found on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Re.../dp/B07MT7Y262 At the time I was just stoked to have a brake line that wasn't too short, but now I'm staring at it as it pours rain.....Annnnnnnddddd I hate it. I ordered a shorter line (140cm) this time. I will test it out and report back. In other news, I think the bike is running a bit lean and has been stalling out while idling. I am going to check the plugs today and adjust as needed. If it is lean and not just a bad A/F adjustment I will probably move up to a 35 (currently at a 32). I also need to fix the tachometer wire to the coil as its a bit precarious and losing the coil mid ride is not something I want to deal with. Then its fixing the speed sensor bracket as there is no location to mount the button magnets. So I'll have to just use magnet brake disc bolts and extend the sensor bracket to reach them. |
I also drained the radiators and engine yesterday as the temps keep dipping near freezing. Replaced the distilled water with Engine Ice. Should keep things safer as the PNW moves into winter temps. Last thing I needed was a cracked block because I was being lazy.
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Put in an iridium plug (NGK 7385 CR7EIX) after pulling the stock plug. Stock plug was sooty and black. So I may have been wrong on my assumption I was running lean at idle. Might be running a tad rich. I'll play around with the tuning and report back.
Built a makeshift speed sensor bracket to position the sensor over the bolts so I can use it properly. https://i.ibb.co/1rF3zzh/IMG-20221106-111119914-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/19J3MF9/IMG-20221106-111132424-HDR.jpg It isn't the prettiest, but it'll work for now. I might pop a weld on it just make it a single piece of metal. That way I don't have the thought of the link coming loose in the back of my mind. |
I gave up on trying to get the tach to work. I can't source where the wire from the gauges needs to connect. I've tried a number of places, but no dice. No signal.
When I was closing everything back up, my starter switch has decided to just stop working. Bike won't fire when I press the starter button. So now I am chasing down this electrical gremlin. Great start to the weekend. >:( |
Electrical gremlin fixed. At this point I have replaced every stock connector on the engine harness save the CDI and Rectifier.
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Working on iteration 2 of the exhaust.
https://i.ibb.co/9qgxcWW/IMG-20221112-123542477-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/MgnZVp2/IMG-20221112-123548199-HDR.jpg Much better clearances and air gaps. I'll probably take it monday to be welded and then mount it up. Magnet bolts for the speedo are on the way and I am thinking about getting a new master cylinder/brake lever. The I have is a cheap amazon folding lever and it always feels spongy. Even after repeated bleeds. Always has like 10+mm of play before engagement. |
Finding a welder willing to do motorcycle exhaust work has once again proven to be a pain. Most of the shops that do the work are considerable distance away and with the holiday coming up, the likelihood of me getting this before December is looking slim.
I am about one buzzed amazon purchase away from just welding it myself. |
Do it...
I've very successfully welded plenty of exhausts just with my dinkum Harbor Freight 120v flux wire welder. It works fine. For thinner bike exhausts you have to use the "sheet metal technique" of giving it short zaps and allowing it to cool a little before the next one so you don't blow through it. My only other advice with the HF welder is to ignore the sticker on the inside of the lid that recommends the wire speed and voltage. Mine seems a bit optimistic and the suggested settings are too low for correct penetration and weld bead formation on any material I've tried it on. Maybe they use the same sticker for the 240v model, who knows. Invest in a can of anti-spatter spray for flux wire welding. Hose down the areas around your weld and the little spatter balls just brush right off leaving the weld looking nice and professional. Ish. The rest of my welding is decidedly farm-grade, so I haven't quite invested in a TIG welder. Yet. |
While waiting on welding, I went back to searching for information about how to get the tach working and I found this on an Amazon review for the same gauges but a different seller:
"The tach did not work when wired to the low voltage (12v) side of the coil. I tried wrapping wire around the spark plug as well to no avail. I then spliced it to the positive side of the pickup coil that senses engine TDC and the tach began working. Make sure you set it to 2 cylinder because it will pick up 2 pulses per power stroke." Now this is what we've got: https://i.ibb.co/MVFGLLr/Coil-diagram.png Which wire would be considered the "positive" side of the coil? |
If its just a mild steel exhaust then DIY with a gasless fluxcore mig will be a great place to start and learn. Great skill to have and super useful bit of kit for running repairs around the house.
think I paid $200 aussie dollars for my 160amp and a decent face shield. That being said I got some practice in fixing my front stairs runs and making a rocket stove for scrap 4" box section before making my custom exhaust. There is also gasless stainless steel wire too...but it will never look as nice as TIG. A grinder and a lick of high temp paint or a glass wrap and it might even pass the cosmetic scrutiny. Im using my gasless mig as it also has stick weld option so now making a swing out tire rack for my 4WD van... |
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I found a welder for the exhaust. Dropping it off tomorrow.
I may have also solved the tachometer issues, but I won't know until I get the exhaust back. I'll post up the solution if I do find it. As this gauge is pretty nice...once you figure out how to wire and set the parameters correctly (did not come with documentation). |
Iteration 2 of the exhaust is back and this will hold me over for the time being. I might redesign it one more time later on down the line, but we're in a rideable state now.
3 items are left to be addressed:
On a side note: After three weeks of not touching the bike, turned on the choke and she fired right up. Two cranks and slight throttle. Nothing really there, just felt good to know she'll start for me each time. |
The "new" exhaust:
https://i.ibb.co/WpwV96d/IMG-20230105-152917580-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/M1CX4X5/IMG-20230105-152922866.jpg https://i.ibb.co/ZMRR8cp/IMG-20230105-152913347-HDR.jpg The air gap for the water pump is good but I may re route that bottom house just for the extra clearance. I also removed the kickstarter because it was basically sitting on the pipe. Its in my saddlebags though. So if I ever need it, I can slap it on. |
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