Could it be Valve clearances....?
 

I have ordered a VE injection pump dial gauge timing kit as well as a diesel compression test kit.... But could my crappy running and tail pipe vape chuff be a sign of over tight valve clearances?

Mitsubishi Manual suggests 0.2mm intakes and 0.3mm exhaust... I can report that only the 2nd cylinder is close to specification with a 0.18mm intake and 0.3mm exhaust valve clearance.

Cylinder 1 and 3 intakes are very tight 0.09mm and 0.1mm respectively. With the rest all being tighter than recommended in general. It appears the valve lash from the manufacturer was overtight and passed QC...I have contacted the ebay seller but I don't like my chances as they are requesting a licensed mechanics ID# as part of the warranty process... I did salvage the shims from the old head so I might be removing the SOHC and swapping shims over the weekend....

Shims! Those are no fun. It's always like doing the job over and over if you don't have the right shims you need, and you have take them out just to figure out what shim you need, whether you can move one from one to another position when possible. Then wait for ordered shims and do it all over again. Went through this on my first gen DOHC Suzuki 4 cylinder bikes.

Do you have the cam follower depression tool? I bought the tool and it was a pain in the neck rotating it into place. Stiff springs. :wtf:

Yes. I agree it can affect valve timing, especially at low rpm, which is wot you are seeing.

Camd, lobe and shim
 

Well looks like I got fudged on the QC and was supplied an assembled head with oversized shims and bad clearances.


I have contacted the seller again.


But i have pretty good case to open an ebay dispute now.


Also have discovered exhaust lobe cyl 3 cam lobe has knife edged...


So I'm going to install my old Mitsubishi cam and probably the buckets and shims too...


Made in China not always a money saver....

Doubling Down on Delicas
 

Yes My short wheel base van is still being worked on...I will need to order new specific sized shims for the valve clearances...


But I was looking online thinking about my vehicle choices and found this long wheel base 97 super exceed at a reduced to sell price.


I know the song goes hold em, fold em or walk away...but sometimes you got to seize an opportunity and double down...


I had to ask for a loan from big sister...


test drove myself to make sure it wasn't a write off then shook hands and the seller agreed to drive it to my location.


Its seen some beach holidays in its time...crunchy places but not terminal.
However I basically paid the amount a used running engine is worth...


I will rust treat it and try to save it from crumbling away anymore..


But right now I am trying to confirm the 9" rear diff is LSD and the same ratio as my worn 8" open rear....


Carchaeology commence...

Oh, nice. Maybe worth just driving it as is for a while before cannibalizing the drive train.

But wait... Now I see where the deep discount came from. You inherited the resident mammal. What's the dog's name? Don't forget you owe her for that discount :tup:

I'll be swapping the glove box handle first before any major blood knuckles and swearing...


Yes I can drive it locally with a cheeky plate swap but the new/old rustbucket is no longer registered as the seller kept plates under his name. Also it's an automatic slush box which for me takes some getting used to...



The dog's name is Shylook, a German short haired pointer 'GSP' she's about 8 years old now. I might take her to the dog park as its been a few months stuck at home.

Found a couple of bucks in loose change and the tank is half full of diesel...so already winning there...

hidden gems
 

Finding a few bonus items.


yes the diffs are same ratio... not sure if the pinion shaft/uni joint measurements are the same though.

There are worse things to find in an old car than a Patricia Cornwell book.

Yes I would have preferred dark horse comics predator...


But nothing wrong with free fire lighters and kindling...

Well, After doing the shim math and ordering a new shim set to work with the OG cam in the new chinsy cylinder head and firing up the van it still ran a but chuffy...


So I will be doing a injection pump timing service with my new VE pump dial gauge indicator.


Side note I went through 4 ebay customer help service members and with photo evidence and establishing the seller went silent regarding my cylinder head valve clearance and dusted cam it was likely the seller went into administration....


TLDR: I got a full refund.


Which is appreciated considering the issue could have caused catastrophic engine damage in it's supplied non OEM specific configuration...


Tackling some rust sections on the other LWB parts van...


very wet and humid weather here though so body work isn't ideal right now.

Just some basic maintenance
 

Was doing an oil change and checked the air filter on the LWB.


not sure what type of oil or how old it was so seemed like a wise move.


I also had a spare air filter which was in better condition then what was previously installed...


Cleaned the air box and checked the turbo for end float...


While removing the intake tube I made a remarkable "Performance Mod" discovery...


A genuine HiClone air intake induction swirl thingy... Which I will tell you now is actually detrimental...Not only was installed on a pre turbo diesel situation as opposed to a naturally aspirated petrol engine...


But if anything it just acts as an air flow restriction...


Though I might be tempted to see if it fits in my 3" snorkel plan as a safety grill/rat shield.

Getting close to September and the start of Spring in Australia...Things are already warming up and I haven't had to light the fireplace overnight for about a week...


Anyway I've been wheeling about in the crunchy LWB parts van, Collecting bulky items and such...But the exhaust system decided to crack at a flange so now its dumping out under the drivers seat...


I could potentially weld it back an keep it going...


But what I really need to do is pull my finger out and fix the main SWB van.


So back to the injection pump and suspected bad timing...


I bought the VE injection pump dial gauge indicator and followed a decent tutorial/explanation on the method of adjusting the timing...


The pump was definitely out of timing but its also appears to be beyond comfortable adjustment range...I tried to clock it but its to much and does no make it...


So I am no lead to believe the Pump was indeed installed 1 tooth out...Even though I'm certain it went in the way it came out.


Well anyway there's nothing for it other than to undo all that was done and see if 1 tooth is the only explanation...

Well I just double checked and cross referenced the Delicaclub forums.



Under the bonnet the sticker implies 1mm at 9*ATDC.


Delica club shows 1mm at 6* or 12* ATDC depending on model/year.


I have checked again my dial gauge results and well it all seems fine...


So I'm going to button it all up and ring the pump service place and perhaps risk a drive as it should be under warranty...


I don't believe there is anything I can do on my part.

Shade Tree Exhuast repairs
 

So looking under the Crunchy LWB after discovering the exhaust pipe snapped..


Clean break from mostly fatigue and perhaps some help from rust...


Whipped out the 140amp gasless welder, did some rough prep and also cut out a section of pipe from the junked SWB exhaust pipe to make a support sleeve/collar...


Then booger zapped into place until it was solid and looked* leak free...


Hit it with some leftover high temp paint (color irrelevant) and have no further intention of poking around under the van for a long time...


So should be back on local runabout duty until I finally get the last niggle in the SWB hopefully figured out (without spending any more money)