Surf, Yes but reassuring and cheap

Pyoung...impressive foot:clap:

In the best KLR tradition
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...VvTjJGd-XL.jpg
The disc I had on hand. Countersunk hole with flathead bolt.

I set my new slip on and pipe it very quick response but smooth and still loud like standard muffler.
http://www.mx7.com/i/1f0/vyYYpn.jpg

Now, here's a HORN
 

I'm getting ready for a fairly short trip out to Appomattox, Virginia for a Horizons Unlimited meet. At this point in time I am at the Good Idea Cutoff Point (Army phrase, but it fits). Today the plan was to install better horn/s. At the same time I wanted to modify the bash plate so I gave more clearance around the exhaust. Truth be told, the accessory bash plate that CSC sells is a fine bit of metal work. Seriously, that's a nice job of cutting, bending, and welding. It's just a bit snug around my exhaust. Here's my plan:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0112-M.jpg
I can trim off the part indicated and not change the protection significantly. A band saw works perfectly.
Next, I need to drill holes to mount new horns. When I tried to put the horns in the general location of the OEM horn I realized that there just was no room for these suckers. If you want LOUD you gotta have room. Thus, mounting on the bash plate, which will still be inboard of the crash bars. The horns are made to mount on really thin stock so I had to counterbore the holes. Nice to have a mill.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0114-M.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0115-M.jpg
Then it's time to install the new horns. One consideration is that the OEM horns are run on really small wires (seems to be typical in motorcycle land) so those wires and the associated switches won't handle the current needed for a decent horn. You need a relay. I used the OEM horn lead to trigger my relay. Then a 14 gauge lead provides the current and ground for each horn. Now the bike no longer sounds like a baby goat on its last legs, I will get attention! Yes, it's not the most attractive setup but it sure works.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0119-M.jpghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0118-M.jpg
the horns are still inboard of the crash bars. I have this set up so I can disconnect at one point and remove the bash plate for oil changes.

Just a note, in order to power this (and other stuff to come later) I installed a fuze block.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0116-M.jpg
right now the horn is not switched. I still need to determine the best way to get a switched power lead (normally I use the tail light). At some later date I will add wiring for heated gear. FWIW, I'm pulling my + from the starter solenoid connection. That saves me from having a rats nest of connection on the battery.

Here's the OEM horn...what a wimp!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...DSCF0117-M.jpg
no wonder why they kick sand in his face!

Nice job! I thought about doing the same, but then I got used to the roadrunner meep meep I guess...

Even though I had just adjusted the valve lash, my RX3 started to stall while coasting to a stop. :hmm: Then I realized I had ridden almost 14,000 miles on the original spark plug. ;)

I installed an NGK CR7E spark plug to replace the Denso spark plug. The gap of the NGK CR7E spark plug is .031 inches.

http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9660

In order to replace the spark plug, I performed the following steps.

Remove both saddles
Remove right (black) plastic cover which flows into the fuel tank shroud
Remove the bolt holding the ignition coil, and move the ignition coil out of the way
Blow out spark plug hole with compressed air
Remove original Denso spark plug
Install NGK CR7E spark plug
Replace the ignition coil in its original location
Replace right (black) plastic cover which flows into the fuel tank shroud
Install both saddles

My RX3 runs great with the NGK CR7E spark plug, and it no longer stalls while coasting to a stop. :tup:

How thick is the aluminum stock?

Today's project was eliminating some vibration at 7000-9000 RPM via a chain adjustment (3rd one) at 1800 miles. I used a Chain Monkey tool and Motion Pro alignment tool which made the job a breeze while giving the chain a quick clean with WD-40 as a cleaner and Chain Wax to lubricate.

http://www.gizmag.com/chain-monkey-review/42441/

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-.../dp/B000GTVOJQ

The stock chain seems like it's not going to last long with the amount of slack that happened in the last 800 miles. The 13T sprocket only has about 1300 miles on it but also show's much more wear than I expected. I'll probably keep some spare sprockets in the garage.

Of note was the fact the the alignment marks on the swing-arm were very different on each side when using the sprocket/chain alignment tool from motion pro, which worked excellent.

I also found the right rear footpeg attempting to make an escape do to the pin having worked its way out. The little clip that holds the pin was missing.

After everything was adjusted no more vibration until over 8000 when some buzz occurs though redline.

Time to look at a higher quality chain!

Nice work. Do you know the Db rating of the horns and have a link?

How about a link for the fuze block as well. Thanks.

Spud, how did the electrodes look on the old plug?

The electrodes looked good, Jay. They wore down evenly, and were the correct color. :)

You are wise to purchase a quality drive chain. :)

As the drive chain rotates around the sprockets, the link pins wear inside the bushings. As the pins decrease in diameter, the chain elongates. Since the links of the elongated chain are farther apart, the chain links wear down the sprockets. :ohno: Therefore, a cheap drive chain will quickly wear out both sprockets. ;) Hence, it's always a good idea to purchase a quality drive chain, since both sprockets should also be replaced when the drive chain is replaced.

I like the RK 520EXW drive chains. :tup:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-Chain?v=12754

https://images.rockymountainatvmc.co..._x-rin_cha.jpg

The Honda XR650L has a drive chain the same length as the Zongshen RX3, 110-links. ;)

Horns and fuze block sourced from Aerostich

Get both high and low tone horns, they sound much better, 132 Db
http://www.aerostich.com/fiamm-freew...ster-horn.html

The Fuze Block has its own relay so you can have both switched and un-switched gadgets.
http://www.aerostich.com/fuzeblock-fz-1.html

Thanks for the photos of the horn and bash plate setup.

I like the idea of getting the hot lead from the starter solenoid.

jb