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I'm just having fun and I don't have a UniBear but I do have a dog that I got from a shelter. |
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New Hawk arrivals
This article is for the new Hawk owners whose bikes will start showing up any day now. While we almost all are hot to ride the little beastie as soon as possible, doing it as a procedure will make you happier in the long run. Please understand that ALL of the lubricants that come in the bike are primarily rust-preventative oils, not much as lubricants. As it comes out of it's cocoon, I would jack it up under the engine enough to get the front forks off. Take the top caps off, turn them upside down and let the anti-rust oil drain out. Preferably overnight. Likewise the engine oil, which contains the clutch and transmission oil as well. Got to your favorite supply place (like Wal-Mart), and buy Diesel Truck engine oil, like 15-40, or 20-50. Buy three quarts or a gallon. Also, unless you prefer a boutique fork oil, buy one quart of ATF. Assuming you did all of this when you got home after work, also remove the battery from the bike and fill it with the included acid. Let it sit (not on concrete) for three or four hours while the acid starts the chemical process of generating electricity. Don't use the one amp battery charger that you also bought when you bought the oil until it is time to go to bed. Let the charger work overnight. Next morning, take the charger off of the battery. Now would be a good time to undo the two nuts on the center of the triple trees on top. The top nut is the lock nut, the bottom nut is the adjusting nut. Undo the adjusting nut enough to expose the ball bearings at the bottom. Grease them up real good with water proof marine grease. I use Evinrude water proof grease for this, as I know it works, even in salt water. Then push the triple trees back up and grease the top bearings. Tighten the top nut until ther is no shake in the triple trees, then put on the lock nut, but no need to tighten it just yet. Put the fork tubes back in the triple trees, and put 6 ounces of ATF or fork oil in each leg. Put on the caps that go on the fork tubes. Set the tubes so that the caps are just above the top triple tree plate. Put a quart of oil in the crankcase. Spray brake cleaner on both disc brakes to clean off the waxy oil used by the factory to prevent rust. To install the front wheel, remember to use something to push the brake pads back in so the rotor will go between them. It wil easily go between the pads. If it doesn't you have the spacers on the front axle wrong. Well, that should get you started...ARH
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I think most know my feelings on useing ATF in the forks...
In another thread I gave the a few reasons why it dosn't work... http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....0&postcount=48 useing ATF is going back to the days before fork oil was on the market.. . |
I have been searching for hours, I can not find the thread or post I am looking for. I live in florida, Just bought two use 2015 hawk 250s. I'm working on one and I have replaced the battery and did the mikuni carb swap and putt a 115 jet in it, yet I can not get it to start. What should be my next step? What setting should I be using? Im at a loss here, please help.
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To touch on the brand new Hawks and replacing the fork oils, do so. My oil came out clean (picture found here http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=19247 ) but it was also filled with a bunch of contaminants/particulates and had the consistency of vegetable oil - and even smelled like it lol.
ATF is not an uncommon thing for use in forks. I personally prefer to use fork oils, and the price difference isn't enough for me to run straight out and buy ATF. I bought 0.5L of PJ1 synthetic 15wt (here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) which is enough to do both forks and have a little left over. For measuring it out, I simply use one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 When draining the "factory" fork oils, I would recommend not just simply turning them upside down, but also cycling the fork in and out. This will help pump out some of the trapped oils. You can take it a step further like I do, and use some ATF to help flush the system out completely. Then leave the forks standing inverted for a few minutes to help let as much of the old stuff drain as possible. When filling the forks, put in about half and cycle the tube a little to help clear out any trapped air. One thing I noticed right away after flushing the forks and adding the new oil was the much smoother action of the forks. This is a good indicator of proper lubrication on the internal fork bushings and seals, which should make for much longer service life. Then, I highly recommend making a fork oil change an annual service. This is probably the most neglected fluid on motorcycles. No matter how good the fork seals are, dirt, grime, and moisture easily find their way into the system, and much like brake fluid it should be serviced and changed out regularly. |
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